I think that Mad has crazy South African surf to ride.
I will never forget Cape St Francis, as depicted in the first
surf film. A perfect wave. A perfect wave is not 30 m high.
It is 5 m but the form is perfect, peeling from one side to the
next, and not sectioning out.
After 60 years that wave is likely different.
BTW, LMAO, you got me Mad....Soma beans are expensive! So,
I have (or will) all his beans "available as singles".
JD
Yeah that was The Endless Summer... It's not close on the same any more. The town is now these carbon-copy built-to-code holiday houses. So they planted up all the dunes and it ruined the wave, turned it from a sandy break into a reef break. J-Bay is just up the coast and friggin KICKIN if you can handle a huge crowd and hardcore 'localism'...
I'm still holding off buying Soma beans thanks to the price. Going to get 2 NYCD singles though. I'm hunting some Gooeybreeder gear ATM, and next up to buy is Gage's Daybreaker and Starlet Kush, some SinMint Cookies and Tangerine Power, and I want to dip into Karma Genetics a little. Perhaps Biker Kush, looks fantastic.
^^^^Where you surfing? Mavericks or what? I don't know any beaches in cali that get 12ft swells except for when el Nino was here.. Newps was hitting up to 15ft then. 4ft average. Maybe 6ft face.
Yeah that's why Cali is home to so many high-performance surfers. We are pretty spoiled on the South Coast of S.A, as long as you like a right-breaker, we hardly have any lefts. The few that we do are pretty suicidal lol. Not many good beach breaks, they are all reef breaks, mostly high-tide too. In winter 6ft is pretty average on good days.
Places on my mind are both in the little beach town I grew up in. Big days are around 8 ft, you see more people in the parking lot than the water, and every now and then it gets MASSIVE, 12 and up. It is still pretty deep where you take off most of the time so if you know the place well it is a lot of fun. Get pounded of course lol. I have ripped up wetsuits to prove it too. Those spots do not break under 4 foot at all. You have to go ride shoreys or shallow reefs.
It gets big but not nasty, huge rolling faces not hollow barrelly stuff. Those are rare at those two points.
We've got our fair share of big waves here mate, both paddle-in like Sunset Reef or tow-in like Dungeons. I'll only ride my home breaks when they get big though, not go looking for trouble in crazy places!
If you like surfing and you can handle a bit of cold water, South Africa is paradise. Weak currency against the dollar, beaches and cheap backpackers/camp sites all over, and in winter when it is good the beach towns are near deserted and a crowd counts as more than 5 people in the water. Except for J-Bay. But everybody has to surf it just once. It might not be big, but it is made of 100 percent pure balls.
And by what I have read, CHEAP ass weed in comparison to other places. If you surf and you dig a 'close to earth' lifestyle, you will LOVE it man.
