DiY LED - Cree CXA3070

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
Maurice here is a thread with some DiY LED vegging info.

From an earlier post: "Photosynthetic efficiency has two aspects. One is the fact that individual photons drive photosynthesis and since blue photons require more energy to produce, they are a less efficient way to get the job done than reds. Therefore we use as little blue as is required to get the job done. KNNA recommends 25-30% for vegging and 15-20% for flowering (PAR Watts) and I agree with his recommendation. Luckily for us, blue LEDs are the most efficient there are so, that makes up for it (Luxeon ES M4R is 55% efficient at 700mA). From my experience, adding deep blue to HPS increases trichomes, terpenes and maybe even cannabinoids (speculating). 3000K LED may benefit from some extra blue, especially the Vero.

Second is more of a speculation that blue and red photons are more efficient than green/yellow because the leaves absorb the blue and red/deep red much better. We used to think this would give LED an additional 25% advantage over HPS, but in practice it may not be quite that much after all. That said, I do believe there is some photosynthetic efficiency advantage over HPS and that adding the reds/deep reds makes buds denser and finish faster (speculating).

Regarding XML2, they are the most efficient non-COB whites, but they are not as efficient as COBs. I like the XML2 for vegging though because they can spread out their wattage better than COB and we dont need nearly as much wattage during veg
."

So you can use cool whites, neutral whites, red/blue or red/white/blue. There are lots of ways to make a vegging light that can fulfill the 25-30% blue guideline.
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
Wow, just WOW

Though I am getting an education watching, I am not ready to tackle DIY, but knowing spectrums is essential

I am using 2 gifted ufo 90s, Helios 3w diodes; one is 5000K the other 3500k = ~ 4250. I have never had such explosive growth, wonderful combination of stretch + bushiness

I should receive 2 x 3ft light rails from BML Horticulture, mostly 3000/2700 but with 2 @ 450 + 3 @ 660 to supplement the 2 ufos during flower. I may need to remove the 5000 (too much blue?) once they are installed, or wait until buds set

Hope you come by
 

mauricem00

Well-Known Member
at this point I am still in the research and development stage and testing to gain data.I am relying on research done on the absorption of light and CO2 for vegetables and flowers since no one has developed an action curve for cannabis or at least they have not published the data form that experiment. this would require a lot of expensive lab equipment that I do not have access to.I have been doing theoretical analysis and testing things that look good on paper. I am german with training in electrical engineering so suffer from the curse of a german engineer. (obsessive attention to detail and a perfectionist attitude) this morning I did a spectral analysis of a combination of 2 warm white ( 6500k) and 1 cold white (20000K). this produced 31% blue.29% green and 37% red,3% far red(700-750 nm) which is very close to the action spectrum of flowering vegetables and maintains the efficiency of white leds. with cheap 50 watt chinese leds this could produce 100lm/watt with a great SPD. looks good on paper so I will have to do a field test to see how it works in practice. reference fig 7 page 4 of the attached document. the cold white can be turn off for flowering or replace with a warmer white
 

Attachments

Last edited:

DiyKindaGuy

Active Member
Wow look at the colour hues on that sexi bitch... supra yu almost got me sold on these cobs .. i deff started looking at putting cobs in with my multi chips.... cant wait for the g/w ratio to be posted...

★★★kushed_out★★★
 

mtnstream

Active Member
Ya the 3000K gets a big thumbs up from me. Here is Blue Widow at 8 weeks that was directly under COBs. Smells like candy fuel and buds are big and dense.

Good work S! Those 2 - 3050's (2.7k) in <2 sf is finishing
a WW x NL strain in <7 weeks. The amazing thing is tric production, color and the rock hard structure...stay safe.
 

mauricem00

Well-Known Member
looks great. just finished my light with two 3000k 50 watt and 1 6500k 50 watt (veg light) how early do you start topping and training to get them to spread like that? I noticed that you have shadows in the pot. leds are very directional and reflected light from them do not fill as well as fluorescents so apparently the plants need to be topped and trained to keep lower leaves from being shadowed by the canopy. different type of light require different growing styles and being new to leds I would like your advice.them puppies are BRIGHT. while building and testing the lights I got careless and accidentally looked at them when turning them on. I saw sunspots for 10 minutes afterwards LMAO. never seen lights that bright.
 

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
Good work S! Those 2 - 3050's (2.7k) in <2 sf is finishing
a WW x NL strain in <7 weeks. The amazing thing is tric production, color and the rock hard structure...stay safe.
That sounds awesome! 2700K all on its it own?

looks great. just finished my light with two 3000k 50 watt and 1 6500k 50 watt (veg light) how early do you start topping and training to get them to spread like that? I noticed that you have shadows in the pot. leds are very directional and reflected light from them do not fill as well as fluorescents so apparently the plants need to be topped and trained to keep lower leaves from being shadowed by the canopy. different type of light require different growing styles and being new to leds I would like your advice.them puppies are BRIGHT. while building and testing the lights I got careless and accidentally looked at them when turning them on. I saw sunspots for 10 minutes afterwards LMAO. never seen lights that bright.
I normally fim them at about 12" but it depends on the plant. If it is a bushy one I try to get them as tall as I can in the veg time that I have. If they are a stretcher Il fim the early and Ill pinch the tallest tops during veg if necessary.

The shadows in that pic were from a sinle light source, 4000K headlamp. Normally in the grow area they get light from lots of different angles but any lower branches that are shaded out I try to cut them off in the first 3 weeks.
 

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
Bondoman I agree with BT, those heatsinks will work great. I would highly recommend flattening the heatsink surface though.
 

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
Yep that about sums it up. The majority of the work is at 80 grit or similar. You can use an electric palm sander or a manual palm sander ($10 at Lowes) Some people use a piece of glass but I have not tried that (I will though). Remove a significant amount of material with the 80 grit and then run it in one direction. That will allow you to see if it is flat yet. Once it finally appears flat, go a bit further because that just means it is ALMOST there. Once that is done you are 90% of the way there, the rest will go very quickly. I go from 80->150->320->600->1000grit. However even if you stopped at 150, you would be improving contact very significantly (which is sad right)
 
Top