hogbud
Well-Known Member
I have never seen a strain not make amber? could it be caused by something? possibly, but I really have no idea what? I'm guessing it is leaning toward Sat and takes awhile to finish, but I admit that is a guess?
Hey New Growers, Let's try this again?
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hogbud
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If you are in organic soil then Molasses is a good thing, as it feeds the little mico critters, this in turn is beneficial to the plant.
if you are in soil less, hydro, coco basically anything but dirt it's a waste of time (and $$$) if your using Chem nutes it will throw them out of whack by causing an imbalance which can cause lockouts that appear as def's
Plants DO NOT eat/use sugar of any kind
waterdawg
Well-Known Member
The Kosher does look like it actually leans more towards a indica as most of the Kushes I jave grown do. Ya if it was a sativa I could understand but oh well!! I guess I just wait and see, well not to much longer lol. Getting pretty hot here without cooling!
hogbud
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pretty damn good, lookin to kick back with a single malt here in a bit
WWShadow
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Hogbud, you got me to thinking on your temp debate earlier. 1000w of heat is 1000w of heat.
But you were using 2(two) 400watt Ceramic Metal Halides w/magnetic ballasts for 800 watts. Your tanning booth consists of 18 (eighteen) 54watt t5 flouros; 972 watts. You experienced almost no variance in the ambient temperature of your flower room after the switch.
Your t5 lamps do they use electronic/digital ballasts? I am assuming they do.
You’re using more wattage now. You have three ballasts instead of two. Different types of ballasts though. They may be more efficient and run slightly cooler.
If I remember correctly, somewhere in your old threads you mention that CMH bulbs run cooler than standard MH bulbs.
I would venture to hypothesize that by upgrading to a more efficient lighting system, it allowed for greater power consumption with out noticeably raising the ambient room temperature.
All of which is moot as we are back to grow talk…
The seed planted for breading purposes must prove itself in vigor to survive. Runts can prove to be more potent. So for breeding you keep only the strong but if growing for potency, you may be willing to nurse along a slower performing plant. Is that correct?
IYO/IYE what would be the reason for the runt being more potent? I know you manipulate for potency in most of your grows. It would seem logical to presume that a vigorous plant would be a better candidate for high potency over a lesser performing plant.
But you were using 2(two) 400watt Ceramic Metal Halides w/magnetic ballasts for 800 watts. Your tanning booth consists of 18 (eighteen) 54watt t5 flouros; 972 watts. You experienced almost no variance in the ambient temperature of your flower room after the switch.
Your t5 lamps do they use electronic/digital ballasts? I am assuming they do.
You’re using more wattage now. You have three ballasts instead of two. Different types of ballasts though. They may be more efficient and run slightly cooler.
If I remember correctly, somewhere in your old threads you mention that CMH bulbs run cooler than standard MH bulbs.
I would venture to hypothesize that by upgrading to a more efficient lighting system, it allowed for greater power consumption with out noticeably raising the ambient room temperature.
All of which is moot as we are back to grow talk…
The seed planted for breading purposes must prove itself in vigor to survive. Runts can prove to be more potent. So for breeding you keep only the strong but if growing for potency, you may be willing to nurse along a slower performing plant. Is that correct?
IYO/IYE what would be the reason for the runt being more potent? I know you manipulate for potency in most of your grows. It would seem logical to presume that a vigorous plant would be a better candidate for high potency over a lesser performing plant.
hogbud
Well-Known Member
With the T5's there are 6 ballast, each fixture has a 4 bulb and a 2 bulb ballast, they are Phillips digital ballast and they are mounted in the hoods, With the CMH's the ballast were on the floor (raised in case of water) behind the grow space.
I will nurture any plant that lives in my garden, I have grown and bred several runts in the past and I have experimented with em. I got Lil Bush by popping immature seeds. I kept her going as a clone for 3 grows and bred her to 3 crosses. She was a finicky eater that had a wonderful structure but made lots of small buds and her high is incredible and very potent. I let her mom go once I got her structure to pass on to a more stable plant.
I honestly don't know why the runts are more potent, I just know they are. And when I get a runt I usually breed it for that very reason.
potroastV2
Well-Known Member
Some Sativa-leaning hybrids will take as much as 16 weeks to fully ripen. That's 112 days, so you may have one of those. On those plants the leaflets are usually the skinny sativa type.
Amber color in the top of the trichrome means that the resin is starting to degrade, however most of the resin in that trichrome is viable. It is simply an indicator that the plant is ripening, you are not losing much potency.
Amber color in the top of the trichrome means that the resin is starting to degrade, however most of the resin in that trichrome is viable. It is simply an indicator that the plant is ripening, you are not losing much potency.
hogbud
Well-Known Member
my purpose here is to prove this is wrong, 2 more weeks and everything will changeSome Sativa-leaning hybrids will take as much as 16 weeks to fully ripen. That's 112 days, so you may have one of those. On those plants the leaflets are usually the skinny sativa type.
Amber color in the top of the trichrome means that the resin is starting to degrade, however most of the resin in that trichrome is viable. It is simply an indicator that the plant is ripening, you are not losing much potency.
hogbud
Well-Known Member
Has to do with the microbs and bacteria in the water and actually dissolving an aspirin (willow bark) in the water works better
What kind of T5 bulbs do you run Hog?
I've read about a lot of dudes mixing up their bulbs to take advantage of PAR values, but I haven't seen too many grows done by dudes that do this.
hogbud
Well-Known Member
The white bulbs are GE HO T5's 54 watt 4100K
the black bulbs are ATI HO T5's 54 watt True Actinic (UVB)
I run 6500K blue bulbs in veg but plan on adding a actinic there as well
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