COB holders - the basics

Mellodrama

Well-Known Member
The purpose of this thread is to complement the great DIY LED threads. I want to focus on just one part of the puzzle. That would be COB holders. I only have hands-on with one holder, the Ideal holder for the Cree CXA30 series, so the info will be a bit biased in that direction.

Molex makes some holders. Some of theirs look pretty cool. But they don't have a product out yet for the Cree CXA30's so I didn't buy any of theirs.

Ideal Industries makes holders. That link takes you to their main page. From there you can follow links to their holders for Cree, Citizens, Nichia, etc.

For instance, here's the page for the Cree CXA series holders. Ideal makes holders for the CXA18, 25, 30, and 35. The CXA30 holder is Ideal part # 50-2234C. I bought several of those from Newark. Shipping was a little bit ridiculous, but that may have been because I failed to choose the cheapest shipping option. Newark sent them out Two-Day Express. Yikes. On the Cree CXA holder page, please check out the "Product Resources" links. There are some .pdf's and a great video. If you do nothing else, watch the video.

Here's a very nice .pdf from Ideal with specific instructions for wire size, wire stripping, torquing down the screws, etc. Buried deep in Gaius' Battlestar thread I wrote about tightening the screws down until the holder deflected a little bit. That was wrong, but it's too late to edit the post now. Ideal's instructions specify 4 to 5 inch pounds. That's a tiny amount of force. If you watch the installation video you'll see how the guy stops turning the screwdriver before applying any muscle.

Since thermal paste will flow once it gets hot, I'd suggest checking the screws after you've assembled a light and run it for a few days. I'd be surprised if they didn't feel loose.

There are at least 3 advantages to using holders.
#1: No soldering to your brand new COB's. I can solder. I've successfully replaced capacitors on computer motherboards. But I'm not thrilled about soldering to anything that I just bought, much less holding the iron fractions of an inch from the fragile LED's on a $40 COB.
#2: You can use regular thermal paste, not thermal adhesive.
#3: Freedom to move them around, swap them out, move to another heatsink, etc.

All you need is the right drill bit & tap, and ideally a drill press. A small tap wrench would be nice but not necessary. I used #6-32 because I had the drill & tap, and a pile of screws from salvaged computers. A note on screws: you'll want small heads. The beefy heads on #6-32 PC hard drive screws are too large. And just like the risk you would take holding a soldering iron close to the LED's, you run a risk getting close to them with a screwdriver. Straight-slot screws would be suicidal in my opinion. Philips would be better. Torx or Allen would be better still.

Ideal also makes an intriguing product for these holders that they call a Reflector Adaptor. On this page you'll see more links to videos, which explain how these work. The Ideal adaptors will accept four different styles of LEDiL lenses. Each of those four styles (Lena, Lenina, Angela, Angelina) come in wide, medium, and spot.

Here's the problem. The LEDiL reflectors are 1) expensive, and 2) hard to find.

Imagine how freakin' AWESOME it would be to strap 8 of those LEDiL reflectors to Gaius' Battlestar :) The hairs are standin' up on my neck
 

Positivity

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the good start. I briefly looked at holders and connectors, quickly noticed they are hard to find for sale. Looks like there are good options being worked on but not quite available yet.

could possibly just find an appropriate sized reflector, larger than led, and high temp silicone it on. Probably be better than nothing, just not as nice as a made to fit one.

these cobs are a real tease right now..lol. All sorts of nice options not quite available.
 

Observe & Report

Well-Known Member
I'd like to point out that the connectors on the Veros are permanent and can't be removed without destroying them. They are there to simplify assembly of a product, not for hackers and their constant reconfiguration.
 

Mellodrama

Well-Known Member
O&R - Thanks for reminding me. I forgot to mention that the Ideal COB holders have two holes for wires on both the positive and negative sides. So, four holes total. If you only fill one hole on each side with a wire, it's very simple to reach into the other hole with a thin pointy object and push on the tiny piece of spring steel that grabs the wire. If you filled all four holes you could still release the wires, but you'd have to use something really thin to get in there past one of the wires and nudge the spring steel.
 

Mellodrama

Well-Known Member
A few days ago I dismantled two CPU cooler CXA3070 DIY lights. I wanted to swap the 5000K CXA3070's for two 3000K's.

I was surprised to see that the paste was thicker than I expected, and it hadn't flown very much at all. The coverage was not even. Let me explain what I mean.

I've assembled/disassembled several PC's over the years. A modern CPU (certainly anything from Pentium 4 onward) will get very hot very quickly. Hot enough to liquefy thermal paste. In my experience a good quality paste will thin out where it's not needed and flow to areas that didn't get enough. Excess paste will squeeze right out of the contact patch. I've applied the paste, then disassembled a year or two later, and always found the paste had thinned and spread itself so that it was providing very even coverage across the contact patch. After seeing this several times, I'd gotten to the point where I'd dab on some paste and smear it around a little bit, but I wasn't overly concerned with perfectly even coverage because the CPU seemed to take care of it.

I brought the assumption that things would take care of themselves with me when it came to building COBs. That was a mistake. I need to disassemble and try again.

There are two things I want to point out. I'm certain of one, but not so sure about the other. The "for sure" thing first. A modern CPU cooler is designed to put a fair amount of downward pressure on the CPU. Those of you who have worked with PC's know that you simply run the screws in all the way and the springs that are built into the heatsink take care of applying even pressure. If the paste thins a bit because of heat the springs take up the slack, ensuring that pressure is maintained.

The Ideal COB holders are simple devices that don't have springs to maintain downward pressure. And they only push the COB down against the heatsink at the two electrical contacts.

The other thing, the one I'm not so sure about, is I don't think a COB gets as hot as a CPU, so the thermal paste doesn't seem to liquefy and spread like I assumed it would.

My so-called plan at this point is to disassemble, clean off all thermal paste, and start over. Since it's almost impossible to spread paste on the COB and install it without getting your fingers in the paste, I might use a pencil to mark where the COB lays on the sink and apply paste to the sink instead.

I'm considering squirting some paste on a clean metal surface and adding a few drops of alcohol to thin it a little bit. Never done that before. I bought some Antec-branded paste not too long ago that included a cute little silicone spatula, so I could use that to mix in the alcohol, then spread an even, thin layer on the sink.

I'm also considering sticking the COB into the paste first, and applying some downward force with a gloved finger, or pencil eraser, or something similar, on the outer frame. NOT on the yellow LED area. However, it's a PIA to get the Ideal COB holder properly positioned on the LED if you place the LED on the sink first. The Ideal holders are designed to accept the COB, then you install the holder/COB to the sink.

Maybe I'll install the COB to the holder, then the holder to the sink, then reach in there with something like a rounded-off toothpick and squish the COB down some. I sure don't want to crunch some internal circuitry!
 

captainmorgan

Well-Known Member
How did you apply the TIM to the COB?

The Arctic MX I used comes in a large syringe and I was able to put a small bead to form a X from the corners then put a dab at the center. I then tightened the COB evenly by turning each screw in small increments from one to the other. The paste seem to squeeze out on all sides but I haven't removed the COB to check it.
 

Mellodrama

Well-Known Member
After the previous post, I decided to "just do it". Unplugged a light. Cleaned thermal paste off both surfaces. Thinning the paste seemed to work OK. I used lab-quality 99% alcohol, not the 70% stuff at the drug store. Used the Antec spatula to stir. Decided to put the COB in the holder, then apply paste. You can see in the pic I tried to make it even. I also dragged it out about as thin as it would go.

Once the holder was screwed to the sink I grabbed a pair of reader glasses. The tips of the earpieces were coated in a soft rubber. I used that to gently nudge downward along the edges of the COB that I could reach.

Fired it back up. It looks better. Like the COB is seated up snugly against the sink.

If there's a lesson to be learned, it's that you can't be too meticulous.

EDIT: Ahoy, captain! The Antec Formula 6 TIM that I bought at Staples included a little spatula. That worked fine. A credit card works good too. I kept spreading and dabbing and trying to keep the TIM from going off the edges. At some point it became obvious that it wasn't going to get better so I simply moved on. I concentrated on even & thin, because I believe that there's not enuf downward pressure and heat to take care of itself.

I never spent that much time and effort on a CPU...

EDIT #2: If there's a TIM that's less viscous than the average, that might be the right choice for this application
 

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stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
" I might use a pencil to mark where the COB lays on the sink and apply paste to the sink instead. "

(...)Recent studies suggest that an effect called superlubricity can also account for graphite's lubricating properties. The use of graphite is limited by its tendency to facilitate pitting corrosion in some stainless steel,[16][17] and to promote galvanic corrosion between dissimilar metals (due to its electrical conductivity). It is also corrosive to aluminium in the presence of moisture. For this reason, the US Air Force banned its use as a lubricant in aluminium aircraft,[18] and discouraged its use in aluminium-containing automatic weapons.[19] Even graphite pencil marks on aluminium parts may facilitate corrosion.(...)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Graphite

" And they only push the COB down against the heatsink at the two electrical contacts."





" I used lab-quality 99% alcohol, not the 70% stuff at the drug store."
Regarding electronics ( & leds ) ,commonly used alcohol is IPA .(Isopropyl Alcohol )
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Isopropyl_alcohol

Good thread ...

:clap:
 
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Mellodrama

Well-Known Member
Hey, stardust, thanks for the most excellent pictures. We were talking about those contact points last week and it woulda been great to have these shots at hand! Your second picture, the one with the arrows, perfectly illustrates how tightening the two screws causes the holder to deflect so that the white plastic nubs hit the deck. And of course the dimples adjacent to the screws touch down too. That 4-point contact stabilizes the holder at the right height off the sink.

When I wrote that the COBs are only pushed downward at the two electrical points, I meant the little white fingers which reach out. I may be wrong about just the two points of contact. There may be some contact between the COB and the metal holder. There are two little "pockets" at 90 degrees from the finger tips. Stamped right into the holder. You can clearly see them in your first picture. When the holder is properly seated I'm thinking now that there may be some COB-to-holder contact in those pockets too.

That's why I was concerned about people grinding off the dimples and crushing the COB.

EDIT: Thanks also for the heads-up re: graphite.
 
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stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Hey, stardust, thanks for the most excellent pictures. We were talking about those contact points last week and it woulda been great to have these shots at hand! Your second picture, the one with the arrows, perfectly illustrates how tightening the two screws causes the holder to deflect so that the white plastic nubs hit the deck. And of course the dimples adjacent to the screws touch down too. That 4-point contact stabilizes the holder at the right height off the sink.

When I wrote that the COBs are only pushed downward at the two electrical points, I meant the little white fingers which reach out. I may be wrong about just the two points of contact. There may be some contact between the COB and the metal holder. There are two little "pockets" at 90 degrees from the finger tips. Stamped right into the holder. You can clearly see them in your first picture. When the holder is properly seated I'm thinking now that there may be some COB-to-holder contact in those pockets too.

That's why I was concerned about people grinding off the dimples and crushing the COB.

I think so ,too..
I think there's some contact between COB and array holder ,in the points you've mentioned ...
Grinding off the 'dimples' is a rather big mistake ,as the array holder acts itself as 'spring' ,while tightening the
two screws .If the dimples are grinded ,the direct result will be uneven pressure on the cob .
Maybe case won't brake ,but thermal conductance is affected.(thus heat transfer ...)
So far ,I've 'discovered' only a minor design 'fault' in the Ideal array holder .
And that is the partial coverage of the Tc measure point .
( Still those array holders, are mainly designed for commercial lighting applications ,where probably ,the
Tc point it is not used.So,it is not really a'fault' .)
 
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Mellodrama

Well-Known Member
I found another CXA30xx COB holder. From TE connectivity. Jeez, I wish RIU would fix it so that hyperlinks are more obvious...

I stumbled onto a Cree document about a wall pack retrofit. Dangit, it's a link to a .pdf, and sometimes I can't figure out what to link. If you google:

"Cree XLamp CXA3050 LED Wall Pack"

The first hit should be the .pdf that I'd like to have you read. Page 7 shows 3 CXA3050's mounted on a heatsink. I recognized the holders as TE's because I'd browsed their website. But I'd missed their CXA30xx holder. TE didn't exactly make it easy to find.

http://www.te.com/catalog/pn/en/1-2154857-3?RQPN=1-2154857-3

Go to that page, scroll all the way down to "Two Piece Corner Holder for Cree CXA2011". Click on that link. You'll get a .pdf. Scroll to the bottom of that .pdf. Look under the 2 piece versions. Part # 2-2154857-2 is a 2-piece holder that's supposed to be compatible with CXA30xx.

Unlike the Ideal holders, it looks like the TE's aren't compatible with Zhaga reflectors.

I did a search for 2-2154857-2. Looks like Digi-Key, Mouser, Farnell, etc. carry them.
 

speedyganga

Well-Known Member
little up,
Did anyone tried to use a reflector on this TE-connectivity holder ?
they seem to be less expensive and to push more the led against the heatsink.
 

Greengenes707

Well-Known Member
Is the ideal holder the best for thermal management. Is there an other that could cool better.

I have jumped on the cooling is the most important, specially when your components don't need extra help for performances.
So the holder seems to be a key variable in the whole design.
 

speedyganga

Well-Known Member
Apparently ideal one dissipate heat because they are in metal...
But they seems not to push a lot on the cob, so the contact between the heatsink and the cob might not be complete.
TE holders seems very good, the only things is you will probably have to glue the lenses as I can't see any adaptor...
 

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
The CXA3070 is large enough that the vacuum pressure from the thermal paste is substantial and sufficient, although it can slide sideways which is why I use kapton tape. If you ever have to remove a COB, it becomes apparent that sucker is not coming off without breaking. You have to turn it or slide it. The COB holder is more about convenience and tidyness in my mind.
 
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