how long for nutrient burn to show up in leaves?
- Thread starter suzyq71
- Start date
Diabolical666
Well-Known Member
yeah Suz, not really an answer for that ,they a ll react differently. you can see signs of burn as soon as 12 hrs
suzyq71
Active Member
well I'm not necessarily concerned about itthe moment but just in case. I'm using fox Farm nutrients she's out door in a 7 gallon pot in Fox farms ocean something soil.she just switch this last week from veg nutes too flowery nutes.sthis is herfirst night of 2nd week in forceflower. I've been bringing her in the dark for 12 hours. she's been getting open sesame for 3 weeks and last Friday she was given Tiger bloom with big bloomfor the first time. up until then she was only receiving big bloom.she looked like she was having a nitrogen deficiency so today I gave her some old veg nutes that I had from last year general hydro.. it was full of nitrogen ,she also received her last dose of open says me this morning
suzyq71
Active Member
charface
Well-Known Member
Sounds like you are doing fine.
You could pour most of a bottle of big bloom on and not worry too much.
it is a weak solution of guano n castings.
tiger bloom n grow big i would respect more.
Ocean forrest is good stuff.
I usually continue adding a bit of grow big during stretch when I used those nutes.
Anyway.
good luck
You could pour most of a bottle of big bloom on and not worry too much.
it is a weak solution of guano n castings.
tiger bloom n grow big i would respect more.
Ocean forrest is good stuff.
I usually continue adding a bit of grow big during stretch when I used those nutes.
Anyway.
good luck
Last edited:
suzyq71
Active Member
I actually by mistake never used the grow big. I thought I was but I was using bigbloom instead all throughout her veg so makes me wonder how big she would have gotten had I used the grow big like I was supposed too.
Bueno Time
Well-Known Member
Fixed
suzyq71
Active Member
I thought soFixed
Dr. Who
Well-Known Member
Ok Suzyq, I have the problem as this.
WAY to much P, WAY to early!
Your Tiger Bloom is 2-8-4 and the Open Sesame is 5-45-19......The Tiger Bloom I would have begun say around week 3-4 of bloom and I would have NEVER have used the Open Sesame......What you have going on is P tox. NO amount of added N will fix this problem PERIOD (this is the most common problem I find around here and the most common answer too [the "add more N solution"]) !
You should just straight water the problem away by watering with straight water for a week. Then go back to the tiger bloom and run the plant out. You could also run something that has VERY little to no P for the week too as that will help reduce the P.
OR
As much as I HATE to say "flush it", this maybe the time to. Flush with 2x the water as the pot size. Let it dry to need it's next watering and water it with straight pHed water and resume feeding the next watering. This may save a small amount of time to resume the feeding.
This would be a good time to add a Silica to your feed mix as Si will help regulate the uptake of P.
HUGE P&K boosters like ALL of the FF solubles are NOT balanced for use with Cannabis. MANY big name nutrient companies have something like the N-P-K of the Open Sesame on their product lists. They tell you things like.
"X is formulated to create the most buds and increase flower size"(5-45-19).
"Y is created to building amazing buds and flowers. Our revolutionary micronutrient pack is designed to create unbelievable internal bud density, which means that plants create fat, dense, tightly-packed blossoms, and plenty of them. You’ll also see exceptionally brilliant color and a long, dazzling blooming season"(0-50-30)
"Z is a high-phosphorus fertilizer that won’t leave a salty residue or build up in the soil. Even better, we’ve included the micronutrient pack that FF is known for. It contains all the essential elements you need to support juicy fruit on compact, stocky plants.
"Z" creates juicy, robust fruit with essential oils and resins pumping out of stems and leaves. That means concentrated flavor and perfect texture"(9-50-10).
Now lets look at what this stuff is beside a WAY to high to high formulation of P for Cannabis growing.
The first one "slaps" the plant with a P value of 45 to do what can be done with a FAR less P value to obtain the same results.
I.E. When I flip a synthetic feed plant to flower. I simply add a quality P&K booster with a value of 0-7-5 at HALF the dose per gallon ONE TIME only to assist in the onset of flower, to my VEG nute.....OR flip to flower and use the bloom feed with certain companies products. HESI is one of those. I run NOTHING but Hesi for soil in ANY synthetic grow I may do (I grow 90+% water only organic).
Now why do I use HESI's bloom right at the flip and NOT wait till week 4 to start the bloom feed as I tell many to do around here?
SIMPLE, HESI is specifically FORMULATED to do that. The Hesi veg for soil (TNT) has an NPK of 2.8 - 2.2 - 3.1
The Bloom changes the NPK very little to 3.4 - 2.6 - 3.4. The REASON for this minor change is very simple. The rise in N is for the FAST burst of "stretch" growth in the first few weeks of Bloom. The SMALL rise of P is to HELP signal the plant that it's time to start setting flower points and it aids in that also (there is NO need to use massive amounts of P here as in reality, all your going to do is HURT the plants ability to "feed it's self" normally. This comes from the early loss of healthy green leaves that actually DO that work. Yellowing /dieing leaves do not photosynthesize). Now the small rise in the K value also helps the plants flip to flower here. I will add a K value of 3 or 0-0-3 to my feedings at this point and continue that out to the "wash" for the added density and expression of color it brings in with NO added plant problems. I do add a P&K booster made by HESI at week 4. I use it full strength at every other feeding till wash.
This is how a CANNABIS plant SHOULD be feed at early flower. If you do NOT use a synthetic nutrient balanced out this way (for this exact purpose), I tell people to simply use their VEG formula till the start of week 4. At that point is when you should start your higher P bloom foods (things like a P value over 4). This IS the ONLY way to avoid the "yellow out" conditions of high P bloom food "abuse" !! And this is TRUE for all of those super high P&K boosters.
Now as for the claims of the second product on the list. The boost of P by 5 actually makes NO sense here as all the real work of the claim is the 11 point rise in the K value.....AND, you really don't need that either (remember how I add the K above?)!!!
The claims of the third product are explained by the "micronutrient" changes they make (and they don't tell you what is actually doing what. Nor do they actually list what they changed/added and by how much). They have added Mg and S along with adding some carbohydrates to do what they list as the "claims". I can do all that from the third product by using a home made product of my own at less then 3 dollars a gallon to make !!! I simply do NOT understand the use of the super high P&K levels and the claims they make in relation to what WE grow.
This stuff used with prudence, on certain fruits and vegetables WILL help them produce more as the maker claims. But the thing is, we aren't smoking tomatoes or eggplant or beans or apples or cherries, etc, etc.
Now you have real information as how to grow with good success. USE it and you will be happy for a long time.
Now, as to your actual posted question. It takes 3-5 days for any adjustment of nutrition to show up in hydro and 5-7 days for soil.
Please note that ONLY an N def will show leaf "repair or improvement"
The best thing is to look at the new growth for the "fix" to have worked.
WAY to much P, WAY to early!
Your Tiger Bloom is 2-8-4 and the Open Sesame is 5-45-19......The Tiger Bloom I would have begun say around week 3-4 of bloom and I would have NEVER have used the Open Sesame......What you have going on is P tox. NO amount of added N will fix this problem PERIOD (this is the most common problem I find around here and the most common answer too [the "add more N solution"]) !
You should just straight water the problem away by watering with straight water for a week. Then go back to the tiger bloom and run the plant out. You could also run something that has VERY little to no P for the week too as that will help reduce the P.
OR
As much as I HATE to say "flush it", this maybe the time to. Flush with 2x the water as the pot size. Let it dry to need it's next watering and water it with straight pHed water and resume feeding the next watering. This may save a small amount of time to resume the feeding.
This would be a good time to add a Silica to your feed mix as Si will help regulate the uptake of P.
HUGE P&K boosters like ALL of the FF solubles are NOT balanced for use with Cannabis. MANY big name nutrient companies have something like the N-P-K of the Open Sesame on their product lists. They tell you things like.
"X is formulated to create the most buds and increase flower size"(5-45-19).
"Y is created to building amazing buds and flowers. Our revolutionary micronutrient pack is designed to create unbelievable internal bud density, which means that plants create fat, dense, tightly-packed blossoms, and plenty of them. You’ll also see exceptionally brilliant color and a long, dazzling blooming season"(0-50-30)
"Z is a high-phosphorus fertilizer that won’t leave a salty residue or build up in the soil. Even better, we’ve included the micronutrient pack that FF is known for. It contains all the essential elements you need to support juicy fruit on compact, stocky plants.
"Z" creates juicy, robust fruit with essential oils and resins pumping out of stems and leaves. That means concentrated flavor and perfect texture"(9-50-10).
Now lets look at what this stuff is beside a WAY to high to high formulation of P for Cannabis growing.
The first one "slaps" the plant with a P value of 45 to do what can be done with a FAR less P value to obtain the same results.
I.E. When I flip a synthetic feed plant to flower. I simply add a quality P&K booster with a value of 0-7-5 at HALF the dose per gallon ONE TIME only to assist in the onset of flower, to my VEG nute.....OR flip to flower and use the bloom feed with certain companies products. HESI is one of those. I run NOTHING but Hesi for soil in ANY synthetic grow I may do (I grow 90+% water only organic).
Now why do I use HESI's bloom right at the flip and NOT wait till week 4 to start the bloom feed as I tell many to do around here?
SIMPLE, HESI is specifically FORMULATED to do that. The Hesi veg for soil (TNT) has an NPK of 2.8 - 2.2 - 3.1
The Bloom changes the NPK very little to 3.4 - 2.6 - 3.4. The REASON for this minor change is very simple. The rise in N is for the FAST burst of "stretch" growth in the first few weeks of Bloom. The SMALL rise of P is to HELP signal the plant that it's time to start setting flower points and it aids in that also (there is NO need to use massive amounts of P here as in reality, all your going to do is HURT the plants ability to "feed it's self" normally. This comes from the early loss of healthy green leaves that actually DO that work. Yellowing /dieing leaves do not photosynthesize). Now the small rise in the K value also helps the plants flip to flower here. I will add a K value of 3 or 0-0-3 to my feedings at this point and continue that out to the "wash" for the added density and expression of color it brings in with NO added plant problems. I do add a P&K booster made by HESI at week 4. I use it full strength at every other feeding till wash.
This is how a CANNABIS plant SHOULD be feed at early flower. If you do NOT use a synthetic nutrient balanced out this way (for this exact purpose), I tell people to simply use their VEG formula till the start of week 4. At that point is when you should start your higher P bloom foods (things like a P value over 4). This IS the ONLY way to avoid the "yellow out" conditions of high P bloom food "abuse" !! And this is TRUE for all of those super high P&K boosters.
Now as for the claims of the second product on the list. The boost of P by 5 actually makes NO sense here as all the real work of the claim is the 11 point rise in the K value.....AND, you really don't need that either (remember how I add the K above?)!!!
The claims of the third product are explained by the "micronutrient" changes they make (and they don't tell you what is actually doing what. Nor do they actually list what they changed/added and by how much). They have added Mg and S along with adding some carbohydrates to do what they list as the "claims". I can do all that from the third product by using a home made product of my own at less then 3 dollars a gallon to make !!! I simply do NOT understand the use of the super high P&K levels and the claims they make in relation to what WE grow.
This stuff used with prudence, on certain fruits and vegetables WILL help them produce more as the maker claims. But the thing is, we aren't smoking tomatoes or eggplant or beans or apples or cherries, etc, etc.
Now you have real information as how to grow with good success. USE it and you will be happy for a long time.
Now, as to your actual posted question. It takes 3-5 days for any adjustment of nutrition to show up in hydro and 5-7 days for soil.
Please note that ONLY an N def will show leaf "repair or improvement"
The best thing is to look at the new growth for the "fix" to have worked.
Last edited:
budman111
Well-Known Member
Shows you how little they know about plant nutrition, seriously high Phosphorous burn please.
Last edited:
suzyq71
Active Member
Wow that's a lot to take in..honestly I think I only understood about half of that what I did understand was just to give her just water for this week.so today is day 2 of week 2 when I took her out into the light today she l looked good but I will give her just water for this week. And start tiger bloomph at the end of next week. I have to start the Tiger bloom again next week because I'm leaving for Hawaii and I will be gone for 10 days so my friend who is watering I don't want him to switch for me I planned on having it premixed and telling him what day to give it to her and I will go half of the strength recommended.I think Thursday will be my nutrient feed day. that is if I'm only supposed to give her nutrients one day a week which is what I have been doing. thank you again for taking the time to give me detailed answers I hope you have a wonderful day
Last edited:
suzyq71
Active Member
Definitely more yellowing in the big fan leaves. ..last year my plant was so easy...until the rainy season.ok so I thought flushing just meant when you have run off at the bottom. And you do that for a little bit. Ive given her three gallons so far she's in a 7 gallon pot. I could just put the hose to it for a little bit? I'll take a couple pica for you. Other than the yellow in I think she looks good. More bud growth every day.
Attachments
BubbaGumpHemp
Well-Known Member
as already said, it varies waaaaay to much. its usually always after at least 12 hours and before 1 week in my experience
Dr. Who
Well-Known Member
Ok Suz, you've done the flush......Now water next time it's READY to be watered with straight pHed water and feed at the next watering after that.
Now water once and then feed, then water, then feed and so on. your pics show that you caught it early. That's good and the plant should recover well.
Good luck
Now water once and then feed, then water, then feed and so on. your pics show that you caught it early. That's good and the plant should recover well.
Good luck