DiY LEDs - How to Power Them

medicinehuman

medicinehuman

Well-Known Member
Sevren said:
I believe I'm using the same alpine 11 plus as captainmorgan. However, I forgot about the sanding portion, I didn't know if this was integral or not.
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That's what I use too, but it is important for heat transfer that you sand flat. I believe that is what went wrong, take em apart and clean and put sand paper on something smooth like glass on a workbench and criss cross your heatsink surface on it . I used several grades of good sand paper, 400 to get it flat and then went with 600 then 800 then 1000 and last was 1500. It really doesn't take long to smooth. Use a good thermal paste, I used Artic silver there's better out there. I just tore one down and checked my paste job and it looked great. A real flat surface and the cob being stiff and flat squished out any extra paste. Someone may correct me if I'm wrong.
 
Sevren

Sevren

Well-Known Member
medicinehuman said:
That's what I use too, but it is important for heat transfer that you sand flat. I believe that is what went wrong, take em apart and clean and put sand paper on something smooth like glass on a workbench and criss cross your heatsink surface on it . I used several grades of good sand paper, 400 to get it flat and then went with 600 then 800 then 1000 and last was 1500. It really doesn't take long to smooth. Use a good thermal paste, I used Artic silver there's better out there. I just tore one down and checked my paste job and it looked great. A real flat surface and the cob being stiff and flat squished out any extra paste. Someone may correct me if I'm wrong.
Click to expand...
Awesome, sounds good to me, thanks.
 
Observe & Report

Observe & Report

Well-Known Member
Lapping is optional but you should wipe the surface with isopropanol to remove any oils. It could be residual oil that is insulating the back of the array, causing it to heat up to the smoke point.
 
Observe & Report

Observe & Report

Well-Known Member
actually now that I tihnk about it, if the back of the array got so hot as to make some oil smoke (>170C) then I guess the array would be toast...

still, getting the surfaces clean before applying TIM is a good idea
 
Greengenes707

Greengenes707

Well-Known Member
It could be something similar to this but from the back?...

Or like others have said...Stock TIM and no surface prep could be it just as likely.
 
Sevren

Sevren

Well-Known Member
Greengenes707 said:
It could be something similar to this but from the back?...

Or like others have said...Stock TIM and no surface prep could be it just as likely.
Click to expand...
Not nearly as much smoke as that, but yeah pretty much that emanating from behind the COB. With the fans blowing it's actually kind of hard to tell where the smoke is coming from, but I really don't want to test anything else until i get everything cleaned, sanded and properly coated with TIM before so I don't completely fry something.
 
B

BuddyLeeCU

Member
Someone on here has to have enough electrical background for this.

With a MOSFET with the correct specs we should be able to splice the DC side of a driver and run PC fans directly off the driver. Most .MOSFET designs are pretty simple easy solder and heat wrap. Just need someone to post a schematic that gets the current and voltage dropped and can make sure it won't interfere with the constant current feature. Only downside is MOSFET is really touchy too much juice or a short and it burns right up.
 
Nc87

Nc87

Active Member
Does anyone know what kind of fuse to put on the DC side of an led driver for cxa 3070s? I have read that a 2 amp auto fuse will work but most of those are rated for either 12 or 24 volts. I understand that my driver puts out approx. 39 volts or so at 1.4 amp. Do I need to find a fuse that's rated for the max voltage as well as current?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Rollitup mobile app
 
Banana444

Banana444

Well-Known Member
Nc87 said:
Does anyone know what kind of fuse to put on the DC side of an led driver for cxa 3070s? I have read that a 2 amp auto fuse will work but most of those are rated for either 12 or 24 volts. I understand that my driver puts out approx. 39 volts or so at 1.4 amp. Do I need to find a fuse that's rated for the max voltage as well as current?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Rollitup mobile app
Click to expand...

I aswell am looking for how to choose a fuse. From what i have read, wouldnt you want to put thefuse on the ac side of the driver? So when it blows it shuts off the driver. If you had a fuse on the dc side wouldnt the driver still be on and powered? It is my understanding you dont ever turnon a driver without having the load (leds) properly wired. I have a meanwell 60 1400. So would I want a 2 amp fuse? On the hot wire ac side right or no?
 
Nc87

Nc87

Active Member
That is a great point. Hopefully somebody with the knowledge will post. I am wiring 3 drivers in parallel to one cord so if the fuse tripped on the ac side all my lights would go down. I'm also not sure if the amperage in front of the driver would match the amperage on the DC side. I would rather fry an 11 dollar driver then a cxa 3070 though.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Rollitup mobile app
 
stardustsailor

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Banana444 said:
I aswell am looking for how to choose a fuse. From what i have read, wouldnt you want to put thefuse on the ac side of the driver? So when it blows it shuts off the driver. If you had a fuse on the dc side wouldnt the driver still be on and powered? It is my understanding you dont ever turnon a driver without having the load (leds) properly wired. I have a meanwell 60 1400. So would I want a 2 amp fuse? On the hot wire ac side right or no?
Click to expand...
Nc87 said:
That is a great point. Hopefully somebody with the knowledge will post. I am wiring 3 drivers in parallel to one cord so if the fuse tripped on the ac side all my lights would go down. I'm also not sure if the amperage in front of the driver would match the amperage on the DC side. I would rather fry an 11 dollar driver then a cxa 3070 though.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Rollitup mobile app
Click to expand...

As a brother around here ,would 've said :

RTFM ! (:

(Read the f...n manual ) :P

cb1.JPG



cb2.JPG

cbnote.JPG

abb mcb s200 b_C.JPG

lpc60 inrush.JPG




Inrush current for LPC-60 : 51A at 230VAC / 26 A @ 115VAC ....
Input current : 0.5 A @230VAC / 0.9 @ 115VAC
Inrush is ~x10 of input current @ 230 VAC , ~29 x of input current @ 115VAC



Right fuse / circuit breaker for AC side for single LPC -60-1400 :

230 VAC 5 A T (=slow tripping / burn-up )
or
115 VAC 3A T

Cheers!
:peace:
 
Dloomis514

Dloomis514

Well-Known Member
stardustsailor said:
As a brother around here ,would 've said :

RTFM ! (:

(Read the f...n manual ) :P

View attachment 3270555



View attachment 3270556

View attachment 3270557

View attachment 3270558

View attachment 3270565




Inrush current for LPC-60 : 51A at 230VAC / 26 A @ 115VAC ....
Input current : 0.5 A @230VAC / 0.9 @ 115VAC
Inrush is ~x10 of input current @ 230 VAC , ~29 x of input current @ 115VAC



Right fuse / circuit breaker for AC side for single LPC -60-1400 :

230 VAC 5 A T (=slow tripping / burn-up )
or
115 VAC 3A T

Cheers!
:peace:
Click to expand...
Any one know what that means. LOL
 
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