MD914
Well-Known Member
I know how to set up my grow spaceLmao, since you are subbed i care not to "tag" you. Do you feel proud that you know what a "tag" is now? Do you know how to use instagram? are you 90?
I know how to set up my grow spaceLmao, since you are subbed i care not to "tag" you. Do you feel proud that you know what a "tag" is now? Do you know how to use instagram? are you 90?
If you have it Filter/Fan/Cooltube. You are pushing air, therefore if you have leaks you are pushing SCRUBBED air back into the grow spacethrough those leaks. If there is a leak between the filter and fan then you yes you are sucking unscrubbed air, mixing it with the scrubbed air and pushing it back into your grow space sure.If you read up on positive and negative pressure then it will be clear I haven't just been BSing you the whole time.
Im out of here lol
Your more worried about intake when exhaust is your issue
Myles117 is not growing in a small tent so he doesn't have the heat issues that you face...
Read everything before you pop in like a douche
It is more EFFICIENT to pull air than to push it...that is what I have been saying. You want to put a 600 watt light in a fukin shoebox but want to cut corners on your setupOK... at the beginning of anything you have said it was that no matter the issue.. sucking air is better. So now you are saying "no, it is better to suck air because of your heat issues".. well that makes no sense, it would cool a light faster by blowing cold air over it then sucking the hot air out. And no you didnt "try" lol you havent explained shit.
I am not more worried about intake jesus lady. It is the cheap option I have at the moment to try a more powerful intake from my window. The more IDEAL option would be to obviously directly cool my light which again I am worried about RH and thought it was less risk to cool the space first. If this doesnt work then I would change my current filter/fan to a 440cfm fan/filter.. then use my original 4" for cold intake to the space. I am trying to avoid another $200.00.
IF i did decide to directly cool my light I would just buy another 4" 200cfm inline fan for $50.00 but this is the option im not considering because of my uncertainty of safety with direct cold air flowing through a cooltube.
Never the less. I have continuously explained myself, and you understand what I am saying without a problem. You however are lacking in communication skills and I hope that you dont die alone some day. Your relationships Im sure could also use work
I did read everything absolutely. I think you need to reread it and take the advice that's been given.Read everything before you pop in like a douche
He's using quality equipment and because he isn't working out of a shoebox he doesn't have to battle the heat that you do...And telling me that because he has a bigger space makes it ok for him to have it filter/fan/cooltube really doesnt tell me shit
You need a better fan for exhaust...I shared a link to an inexpensive one...I'm not looking for it again.Physics says yes it is easier to pull, period. Cutting corners yes because of heat and space lol I figured in regards to heat if I had it filter/fan/cooltube then the fan blows cool air over the light instead of sucking hot air through the fan, I also *assumed* that my fan would not have to work as hard and would also create more suction from the filter.. I apologize, ive been frustrated with trying to understand what some of you are saying its mixed me up. I have understood that pulling is ideal here. Awhile ago, thank you yes. I have seen about 50/50 filter/fan/cooltube and filter/cooltube/fan on here. That has also fueled my confusion lol. Again, it is understood that pulling is the best way, I get that. I want to know exactly what I am loosing or gaining thats all.
I was on the fence about directly cooling my light with outside air because of moisture and the bedroom air is too warm to directly cool it with that too so.. now that it has turned super cold over night my tent is perfect, the little 4" 100cfm duct fan that is bringing in cold air directly from my window is doing the trick now. If I kill the little duct fan with the moisture I'm not all that concerned, saves me a cooltube bulb and inline fan IF something did happen.
I am only able to use the 600watt because of cold air so yes when summer comes I will have to get an a/c or try out the 400, even then it might be too hot for the 400 because we have no HVAC system, its just electric heat and good old fresh air lol. I am in a 2 bedroom apartment so no putting holes in ceilings etc, just vent directly back out the top of my window with a 2 fan window fan helping flow it out the window, this helps disguise my window better instead of sticking 4" ducting out the top of it directly.
SO I will put my fan at the end if I should.. jesus lol
so therefore you are saying I will exhaust heat faster if I have it at the end (filter/cooltube/fan).. All you had to say was "you will exhaust heat faster with the fan at the end as physics defines, it is easier to pull then push. Regardless, you should upgrade your exhaust fan and filter for that 600watt because no matter which way you have it, it will still be too hot if you are not directly cooling it with an a/c or filtered outside air."He's using quality equipment and because he isn't working out of a shoebox he doesn't have to battle the heat that you do...
The link I shared was a 400 CFM for about 70 bucks
But you were trying to avoid spending 200 bucks??? 82? Sorry...I paid 70 something when I got minewouldnt I want a bigger filter too though? I can get a 440cfm with filter for $200.00 flat to my door..