Carbon Filter no longer controlling odor in tent

Hot Diggity Sog

Hot Diggity Sog

Well-Known Member
jondamon said:
Yeah hand wash, rinse it until water is clear then allow to dry naturally.

If you force dry it, it will end up fitting a barbie doll as a dress lol.


J
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Thanks...will do that today. Do you see any reason why I would have to stop using the filter for the day that the cover is removed?
 
DemonTrich

DemonTrich

Well-Known Member
why not build a new scrubber for 50% the cost of another phat/phresh filter? my built scrubber would be the equivalent to an 800.00 store bought one. I rebuild mine after 2 or 3 harvests (takes me 20 mins start to finish), and costs me 60.00 for the carbon or coconut husks.
 
kiwipaulie

kiwipaulie

Well-Known Member
You should also run the fan before the reflector. Push the air through it, don't draw hot air through your fan unless you want it to break down faster.
 
nonamedman420

nonamedman420

Well-Known Member
use a thin bag or cellouphane like plastic wrap...if your hose is under suction, it will stick where the leak is. if its pressurized, it will blow away from leak. I think GHB is right with fan speed being too high, causing too low contact time with carbon. hope that helps you out
 
tekdc911

tekdc911

Well-Known Member
if you shake your filter does it rattle ?
if there is enough slack to hear it move then air is just passing straight through ..........
you can top it off with some more carbon if this is whats going on ........ i thought about it after i replaced my last filter and ill be damned if the old one doesnt work better then the new one
 
Hot Diggity Sog

Hot Diggity Sog

Well-Known Member
tekdc911 said:
if you shake your filter does it rattle ?
if there is enough slack to hear it move then air is just passing straight through ..........
you can top it off with some more carbon if this is whats going on ........ i thought about it after i replaced my last filter and ill be damned if the old one doesnt work better then the new one
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When I replace it tonight I will check and report back.
 
jijiandfarmgang

jijiandfarmgang

Well-Known Member
WeekendSupervisor said:
I think that advise is questionable. For example, here is a thread about this subject. Look for posts by @unity
http://rollitup.org/t/push-or-pull-fan-air-movement-through-hoods.450304/
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I've been saying that too. The fan does get warmer this way but it moves air and is self cooling. Good fans have a 5-10 year warranty. I've never had a quality fan fail.

Also, there is more resistance pushing because most people use flex duct, and when you push it fully expands the duct creating sharper bends.

- Jiji
 
tekdc911

tekdc911

Well-Known Member
i run the fan infront of the bulb but its just so if a bulb pops the fan doesnt have to eat glass shards ......... i believe the operating temp of most of the extraction fans is well over what the air is after the bulb ...... i dunno just random stoner thought i guess
 
m4s73r

m4s73r

Well-Known Member
jijiandfarmgang said:
I've been saying that too. The fan does get warmer this way but it moves air and is self cooling. Good fans have a 5-10 year warranty. I've never had a quality fan fail.

Also, there is more resistance pushing because most people use flex duct, and when you push it fully expands the duct creating sharper bends.

- Jiji
Click to expand...
And most people will run the fan outside of grow room if they can for this reason of fan heat. As for bulb fragments upon detonation, you can go to lowes and get some gutter screen and put it the ducting between fan and hood. that should catch the big pieces of bulb with out blocking air flow.
 
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