...All Things Vero...

[SupraSPL]

Might as well get them in 18 awg for our projects. The part number he linked is the 18" 18awg version 0688014229 $1.73. Although the 28 awg may be capable to pass 1.4A of current, any voltage drop (heat) that occurs in the wire directly decreases efficiency, so it is good to oversize the wire and 18 awg is very easy to work with. The 12" version is a bit cheaper 0688014225 $1.51

 

[kamikaza]

The Vero line has a bit more red than the Cree CXA. I use the 3500k for that reason. The 3500k has plenty of red for flowering and would be OK for the little ones too. 5000k is what I use for clones, vegging and to keep my mother plant.
Also, your plans look good to me. I like that you're planning to drive them at 700ma. You'll get much better efficiency driving them soft.
You don't need 18 gauge wire for your led strings. 20 gauge is really overkill but that's what I use. The Molex connectors for Vero I bought from Digikey had really tiny wires, like 30 gauge and they worked fine powering 4 on a string.

Thanks for your answer Mechmike! you cleared up things for me. i will go for the 3500k then.

about the molex wires, i was worried it's to thin for our purpose, but 18 AWG is ok for sure. i kept searcing and find this chart - look like the 3 on the bottom are all 18 awg -
http://rhu004.sma-promail.com/SQLImages/kelmscott/Molex/PDF_Images/987650-8361.PDF

 

[churchhaze]

I don't think you're missing anything. Resistance is linearly proportional to length, and inversely proportional to width.

The longer a wire is, the fatter you'll have to make it to get the same total resistance.

If the wires aren't hot, they're probably thick enough. Also, it shouldn't matter if it's AC or not. 60Hz is so low of a frequency that it may as well be considered DC as far as the L and C parasitic of the wire are concerned. If the frequency was like 50khz, then the LC parasitic parameters would distort the signal. (Sort of moot point considering system stability is sort of meaningless other than giant transient spikes)

I bought the same Molex connectors, think they are actually 28 gauge. This is the smallest I have seen so far at least....last night after reading came across something that I think is pertinent.

28 AWG Strand was rated for 1.4A for chassis wiring and .144 amps for power transmission and 30 was less [thinking this was for 1 foot of return loop, so 2 feet of 28 is where the rating is calculated I believe]. However that is for AC and I haven't looked again for DC standards. FIY, that is about 25 watts on the AC side. So I wonder about powering long strings?
What am I missing?

 

[AquariusPanta]

Hello gang

i am not hanging alot in this forum, but i know this is the place for DIY leds

i built already 150W led bar with 3 CXA3070 driven at 1.4A to supplement my 2 600w HPS, and i am happy with the resolts (thanks for all the heros here - you gave me the inspiration)

now i want to build a led bar for a friend, he grows in a small closet and wants to supplement his led panel with COB's bar to cover some space the panel doesn't.

the space we need to cover is 80 centimeter long and 20 cm wide.

i am thinking about 4 vero18 driven at 700 ma. that's 20.1 watt per COB at 25 TC, 80.4 watt total for the light bar.

do you think it's a good planing?

which color is the best from clone to harvest? the guy veg the clones for 10 days, and then flower. so i was thinking to get the vero18 3000k 80 cri, but now i tend to buy the 3500k 80 cri. what do you guys think?


the COB's will be placed 20 cm apart from each other, so my bar should be slightly longer then 60 cm, the 2 end ones will be on the edges of it. i will use activ cooling, so i hope there won't be heat issues.

i ordered from heatsinkusa the 4.230", 27" long.
this one - http://www.heatsinkusa.com/4-230-wide-extruded-aluminum-heatsink/

the aluminum bar will be cooled by two 92mm sunon fans, 55 cfm each, forcing air down to the heatsink. those - http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ME92251VX-000U-A99/259-1650-ND/4247625


the total vf of the 4 COB's will be around 115vf, so i want to get the meanwell LPC-100-700. it's voltage output is 72-143v.
http://www.meanwell.com/webapp/product/search.aspx?prod=lpc-100


the driver will be mounted on the heatsink itself, and i hope the air movment from the fans will cool it a bit.

all 4 COB's will be on stream of course, and i want to use the MOLEX and WAGO connectors. i didn't find in the molex information about the maximum VF possible. is it 18 AWG wires? will it handle 115 vf?
http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?mpart=0688014229&vendor=900
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321592049392?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

any comments or sugestions are wellcomes, thanks!

3 - 4 Vero 18's @700mA should suffice for a closest grow of ~3' x 3/4'. What's the height of the space?

You want 80CRI for each COB. 1x 4000K, 2x 3500K, and 1x 3000K may serve as a nice combo between vegetation and flowering (another perk about gathering multiple, medium COBs instead of one or two big COBs).

You seem to have everything else down. IMO, dimmable drivers are the way to go for cradle-to-the-grave COB fixtures.

 

[bicit]

http://www.rapidtables.com/calc/wire/voltage-drop-calculator.htm

http://www.calculator.net/voltage-drop-calculator.html

It's best if you aim for a voltage drop of less than 3%. Worse case, you want to make sure you have enough voltage at the end of your run of cable. 18AWG is a good fit and inexpensive.

 

[Abiqua]

Has anyone tried using reflectors on their Vero's and specifically on 10's?

I have a hit and miss list. Rough compile.......

11mm reflectors for the V10 i believe? Same for the V13/V18?

http://www.lumotrix.com/bridgelux-reflectors/
http://www.lednlight.com/index.php?page=gaggione_distributors
http://www.ledwerx.com/bridgelux-reflectors

Mirella base $0.54 ea
https://www.verical.com/part/748481-C12480-MIRELLA-50-S-PIN#searchCriterion=1&searchName=&searchTerm=Mirella-50&landingPage=catalogMpnView&_i_=4

Verical also listed some, but not a part# and when I asked the LiveChat, I was told they couldn't look for them without a part #, even though I dropped them the direct link.....loco.

Digikey also has strange listings, anyone order thru them?

 

[uzerneims]

Aah, could not wait for CXA supply, so i ordered for myself pair of 3500k VERO29, that will be for my friends too, so i'm not different, in the later i will definitely run some CXA's at low current, when the price will drop (i think after a year CXA3070AB's would cost 20USD, haha)...

I think i will be happy with my V29's
Anyways, i think it would do better as my 70W HPS lamp.

 

[AquariusPanta]

Has anyone tried using reflectors on their Vero's and specifically on 10's?

I have a hit and miss list. Rough compile.......

11mm reflectors for the V10 i believe? Same for the V13/V18?

http://www.lumotrix.com/bridgelux-reflectors/
http://www.lednlight.com/index.php?page=gaggione_distributors
http://www.ledwerx.com/bridgelux-reflectors

Mirella base $0.54 ea
https://www.verical.com/part/748481-C12480-MIRELLA-50-S-PIN#searchCriterion=1&searchName=&searchTerm=Mirella-50&landingPage=catalogMpnView&_i_=4

Verical also listed some, but not a part# and when I asked the LiveChat, I was told they couldn't look for them without a part #, even though I dropped them the direct link.....loco.

Digikey also has strange listings, anyone order thru them?

Have you tried this link yet?

http://www.ledil.com/products/?y

I haven't incorporated either lenses or reflectors into my DIY projects but that may change in the near future. I think heat buildup is my biggest concern but maybe someone could reassure me. I will have to look into some additional threads to gather more user-based experience in order to move forward.

 

[Abiqua]

Have you tried this link yet?

http://www.ledil.com/products/?y

I haven't incorporated either lenses or reflectors into my DIY projects but that may change in the near future. I think heat buildup is my biggest concern but maybe someone could reassure me. I will have to look into some additional threads to gather more user-based experience in order to move forward.

Thanks AP, unfortunately, that doesn't help locate distributors, I have found the Miranda bases though, those are LEDIL, so I will have to look through that link

 

[AquariusPanta]

Thanks AP, unfortunately, that doesn't help locate distributors, I have found the Miranda bases though, those are LEDIL, so I will have to look through that link

http://www.ledil.com/where_to_buy

Any better?

I'm having a difficult time finding anything in stock. Prices seem to be sort of high for the 70 degree reflectors from Ledli.

 

[salmonetin]

...to bridgelux Vero users...

...Design Resources... ...and Application Notes...

http://www.bridgelux.com/products/vero-series/design-resources/

...Application Notes... ...Bridgelux AN's for vero series... ...AN Files...

Application Note AN30 – Thermal Management for Bridgelux Vero LED Arrays

http://www.bridgelux.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/AN30-Thermal-Management-of-Vero-LED-Modules.pdf

Application Note AN31 – Handling and Assembly of Bridgelux Vero LED Arrays

http://www.bridgelux.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/AN31-Handling-and-Assembly-of-Vero-LED-modules.pdf

Application Note AN32 – Electrical Drive Considerations for Bridgelux Vero LED Arrays

http://www.bridgelux.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/AN32-Vero-Series-Electrical-Drive-Considerations.pdf

Application Note AN34 – Reliability Data for Bridgelux Vero and V Series LED Arrays

http://www.bridgelux.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/AN34_revA-Reliability-Data-for-Vero-and-V-Series-LED-Arrays1.pdf
Application Note AN36 – Optical Considerations for Bridgelux Vero LED

http://www.bridgelux.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/AN36-Optical-Consideration-for-Bridgelux-Vero-Arrays.pdf

pd... thanks Abiqua ...and DonPetro ... ...and Positivity ... and AquariusPanta...

Saludos

 

[uzerneims]

in specs they wrote that V29 needs AWG18 wire, but i will have only 28AWG connectors , their specs says that max amps are 1.4 for them, missed something, but - mollex manufacturer number: 0688014146 says, that it works with V29 too...

 

[uzerneims]

So i bought wrong ones ;(
We have here - 220V

 

[stardustsailor]

I tore down a Vero 10 that I damaged and took some pictures with a microscope. Check it out:

After removing the overmolded plastic, the aluminum substrate is visible. The COB substrate itself is polished aluminum. GaN-on-silicon chips are epoxied to the polished aluminum surface and wirebonded in a parallel-series configuration.

Bridgelux specializes in GaN on silicon; in fact, they have a partnership with Toshiba where Toshiba makes the chips and Bridgelux packages the chips into COBs. According to press releases, it appears this is how the Vero series is manufactured.

Silicone phosphor encapsulant with some bond wires visible.

A close up of a bonded wire; likely made of gold. You can also see the phosphor particles in the silicone.

After removing the overmolded plastic, the aluminum substrate is visible. The COB substrate itself is polished aluminum. GaN-on-silicon chips are epoxied to the polished aluminum surface


Are you sure that it is Aluminium ?

Do us a favor and slice the substrate in half ,so that we can all see the 'core' of the substrate ...

Maybe it is not 'polished aluminium' .....

Maybe it's Silver-plated Copper ...
Just saying ...
...

Which BTW reminds me ....

A 'con' of the Veros versus the CXAs ..
CXA series use ceramic substrate ....

Ceramic ain't prone to 'sulfurization' ....
Unfortunately Silver is quite prone to that ....

What is 'sulfurization ' ?

Ah,well ....

http://www.samsung.com/global/business/business-images/led/file/product/lighting/201408/Application_Note_Chemical_Guide_for_LED_Component_Rev.1.3.pdf

 

[doctorflux]

I'll take a look at the substrate tomorrow (unfortunately the right tools are packed away at the moment so I'll have to hack it apart).

 

[bondoman]

Here's my 3 x Vero 18 setup. The drivers support .7, 1.0, and 1.2 amps. At the full 1.2 and the fans on, the heatsinks just get very slightly warm. Total watts at .7 including fans is about 67 watts. Vero's are the 4000k. The old school type reflector seems to put the light exactly where I want it. Loving those wagos and these drivers, no soldering required.

 

[Dloomis514]

Here's my 3 x Vero 18 setup. The drivers support .7, 1.0, and 1.2 amps. At the full 1.2 and the fans on, the heatsinks just get very slightly warm. Total watts at .7 including fans is about 67 watts. Vero's are the 4000k. The old school type reflector seems to put the light exactly where I want it. Loving those wagos and these drivers, no soldering required./QUOTE]

Are those drivers outside the grow room?

 

[Chronikool]

Here's my 3 x Vero 18 setup. The drivers support .7, 1.0, and 1.2 amps. At the full 1.2 and the fans on, the heatsinks just get very slightly warm. Total watts at .7 including fans is about 67 watts. Vero's are the 4000k. The old school type reflector seems to put the light exactly where I want it. Loving those wagos and these drivers, no soldering required.




View attachment 3306725 View attachment 3306726 View attachment 3306727

I like the long finned heatsinks you have bondie....Are those CPU coolerz or separate fan/heatsink unitz?

 

[PurpleBuz]

The old school type reflector seems to put the light exactly where I want it. Loving those wagos and these drivers, no soldering required.

That reflector is pretty cool, nice and simple to push the sideways light down, without trapping heat.
Think I might have to setup a metal workbench for stuff like that. all ya need is bend, cut, drill and screw.

 

[bondoman]

right now they're inside. I don't think they'll be a problem with heat, as they just got barley warm at 1.2 amps.