Detached shed grow help

Getgrowingson

Getgrowingson

Well-Known Member
We have a nice garage type setup with an addition attached which we built a 10x10 flower room with 2 1000watt hps and a 5*8 veg room with 2*600w mh

Currently we are running a bunch of strains but we didn't really run the setup prior to starting which set us back. Plants were beautiful but now due to the cold weather we are having trouble keeping keeping the rooms warm enough during the night period. So what we have setup now is veg runs 24 hours and has a 10" vent through the wall to the flower room which has a 12 in line fan pulling 1000cfm which also heats the flower room. Temporarily this is working but am looking for suggestions on things I could do to improve my ventilation.

We can't get warm air from the house or anything so our intake is as cold as it is outside. And don't want to use heaters because of the electricity limits unless we put in a new service and that's a mission in the winter. Currently we have 40A 240 v running it all...
Any pointers or help comments criticisms are helpful.

Haven't been here in a while cuz I started out Indoors with with autos. Must say some are better better then most of the "kush" that goes around here but want to do do sog and that's not feasible unless I make my own seeds

Strains are
HSO:
green crack
707 headband
Blue dream

DNA GENETICS
Holy grail kush

And a cut from my buddy who pheno hunted 50 beans from from Cali connect GSC. May not be legit but she is dank and vigorous as hell.
 
justugh

justugh

Well-Known Member
ok so this means u have not done a few key things

u are going to need foam board enough to fill the walls in or make a 2nd wall this will keep the heat from bleeding off into the air outside


depending where u are u also think about investing in IR blocker ........it is designed to keep cameras or other things looking into the room so they have 1 less reason to get a warrant .....as for the hot air exhaust get a old grill and send it to that so if they look at it just a warm grill
 
Getgrowingson

Getgrowingson

Well-Known Member
if they look all they will find is a grill so we got that covered haha. its running at 50% right now and the temps have stabilized. we have it build with 2x4s and all walls and rough is insulated and vapor barrier with 3/4 particle board. no heat escapes except what is pumped out the exhaust fan. i actually have a 20000$ ir camera we use at work so got that covered. minus the grill exhaust that looks like a heater from a house type chimney. the problem lies with the fact out intake air is like 30f or lower
 
justugh

justugh

Well-Known Member
well u have your camera spec check it vs FLAIR that is what the cops use .........the grill is just a trick i picked up (should try me on underground models)(if u had the money i say build a smoker those are set higher and big things ......used all year long just now and then un hook it really use it then hook back up

your intake part is easy this is tricky but sound like u enjoy tricky
i am assuming u have a powered intake or a large passive the area u do u need to make a box and then use a small heater unit to warm the air before it passes out into the grow area
http://www.amazon.com/Lasko-754200-Ceramic-Adjustable-Thermostat/

now the tricky part is a large enough box so no heat build up and chance of fire along with enough flow passing out but enough time to warm it
here is something to help yah
http://www.amazon.com/Titan-Controls-702750-Temperature-Controller/.......the senor in the box and the heater pluged into it if the temp gets to a set point in the box it will shut off automatically or u can attach it on the outside so feels wood
 
Cannasutraorganics

Cannasutraorganics

Well-Known Member
Put exhaust fan on timer. Start an hour after lights on and off half hour before they go off. After lights come on so they can build more heat up. Before they go off so the lights increase the temp so it takes longer to cool off.
 
justugh

justugh

Well-Known Member
doing the night cycle u want the oxygen cycle and to remove the trash Co2 .......during the light out time 2/4 hours after the lights are off it changes over to using oxygen (like co2 in light hours) and make a byproduct of CO2 and other trash gases to them ......u need to keep exchanging that

even with Co2 in the day time u need to replace the Co2 and oxygen in the area ....same goes for night ......the heat u are talking about is IR heat and that takes a good few hours with effect venting ........it is the root zones u need to worry about they are not getting the IR heat and a steady 30degree temp getting pumped in each night the soil temp will get a little lower warm up not not as much in the day time .......this would be effective to get your hues

if u are hydro this could be a good or bad thing i am not sure never had temps that low to play with
 
Getgrowingson

Getgrowingson

Well-Known Member
We are running the lights at night. Still cold as heLL during the day. The problem lies in BOTH rooms are exhausted through the one fan. They have a 10 inch duct between the two which allows the air to pass from the veg room to the flower room with the passive intake in the veg roomSo i cant put it on a thermostat because if it turns off when temp is reached in the flower room it will be waaay to hot in the veg room. I like the idea of heating the intake side before it enters the room. Intake is passive . Might build a box with an oil heater in it with the duct going to either side to heat the air while it flows through.

Passive Intake W Outside air> Veg Room>Flower Room>Outside is how it is set up

The camera is a legit FLIR camera. It is probably better then the ones they use on the helo....cant pick up anything but a minor change in temp which would be the same as a heated garage. It is a rather big garage, more like a smaller sized workshop.

We are going to be running veg 24 hours a day and flower room will be 2 4x4 tables so dont want it getting too cold but also dont want to use chillers or anything so want to keep temp in low to mid 70s. I beleive running 24 hours a day the veg room sits at 74 Degrees and 50-60% Humidity so when the flower room is in its dark cycle the warm air from the veg room should keep the flower room in a desireable temp. Hoping for high 60s.

Another question is the work room and the hallway we have seperate from both rooms is freeeezing cold as well. Basicly a few degrees warmer then ambient. BUT it is sealed very well. So what i was thinking instead of venting the nice warm air outside to but a Y in the exhaust and pump half the air into this space to keep it warm so we can finally store our nutes out there. So the question is will the fan have a hard time pumping air into the hallway/work room due to the fact it is sealed? And if i put a Y and a damper so it pumps air into both will the pressure rise to much after a while that all the air will just take the path of least resistance and just go outside instead of heating the room/hallway like we want?
 
jijiandfarmgang

jijiandfarmgang

Well-Known Member
If you want to use 1 fan and two separate rooms or whatever....then use active damper(s). It doesn't make sense to use an to ventilate the flowering plants lights out with lots of freezing cold air. Then trying to fix it by burning fuel or electricity you don't have.

- Jiji
 
Cannasutraorganics

Cannasutraorganics

Well-Known Member
Get the inline chillers for the lights. In winter run a water heater on a tank of water and run warm water through them and recirculate the air inside the rooms. Then use with cold water in summer.
 
Cannasutraorganics

Cannasutraorganics

Well-Known Member
Getgrowingson said:
We are running the lights at night. Still cold as heLL during the day. The problem lies in BOTH rooms are exhausted through the one fan. They have a 10 inch duct between the two which allows the air to pass from the veg room to the flower room with the passive intake in the veg roomSo i cant put it on a thermostat because if it turns off when temp is reached in the flower room it will be waaay to hot in the veg room. I like the idea of heating the intake side before it enters the room. Intake is passive . Might build a box with an oil heater in it with the duct going to either side to heat the air while it flows through.

Passive Intake W Outside air> Veg Room>Flower Room>Outside is how it is set up

The camera is a legit FLIR camera. It is probably better then the ones they use on the helo....cant pick up anything but a minor change in temp which would be the same as a heated garage. It is a rather big garage, more like a smaller sized workshop.

We are going to be running veg 24 hours a day and flower room will be 2 4x4 tables so dont want it getting too cold but also dont want to use chillers or anything so want to keep temp in low to mid 70s. I beleive running 24 hours a day the veg room sits at 74 Degrees and 50-60% Humidity so when the flower room is in its dark cycle the warm air from the veg room should keep the flower room in a desireable temp. Hoping for high 60s.

Another question is the work room and the hallway we have seperate from both rooms is freeeezing cold as well. Basicly a few degrees warmer then ambient. BUT it is sealed very well. So what i was thinking instead of venting the nice warm air outside to but a Y in the exhaust and pump half the air into this space to keep it warm so we can finally store our nutes out there. So the question is will the fan have a hard time pumping air into the hallway/work room due to the fact it is sealed? And if i put a Y and a damper so it pumps air into both will the pressure rise to much after a while that all the air will just take the path of least resistance and just go outside instead of heating the room/hallway like we want?
Click to expand...
Oil heaters produce co2 and that is not good with lights out..
 
Getgrowingson

Getgrowingson

Well-Known Member
sealed oil heater. more like a fin type heater. I want to know more about the question about exhausting some of my heat into my other rooms which are sealed tighter then a nun. would the pressure rise to the point where it can no longer push air into this area or would it work out alright and heat the rest of the place
 
East Coast

East Coast

Well-Known Member
Is this area insulated at all?

Cheap quick fix - cardboard packaging that comes in a roll...50m or 100m etc normally by 1.2m wide. Roll that over ya walls and ceiling, staple in place. According to basic principles, most heat lost through ceiling. The fluted cardboard will be a good insulator, and cheap and quick.

Concrete floor? Place secondhand underlay & carpet down.....generally carpet stores will give this shit away.

Basic principles will also say, this will help heat issues during summer, by resisting heat coming in, consider looking towards a decent insulation idea for the future.
 
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Getgrowingson

Getgrowingson

Well-Known Member
The WHOLE building is insulated and vapour barrier with 3/4 inch plywood over that. Insulation is not the problem. The only intake air I have is below freezing. That's the problem
 
Getgrowingson

Getgrowingson

Well-Known Member
Concrete floor then 2x4 frame with insulation for the flooring and 3/4 plywood all painted painted and expanding foam all joints
 
Flash63

Flash63

Well-Known Member
I also have a grow in my unheated,insulated garage...i purchased a old furnace ran the duct work and put in on fan only....the heat from the lights keeeps the garage warm,i have been doing this for yrs...
 
Blue brother

Blue brother

Well-Known Member
It's simple mate, if you have NO way of keeping ur temps in range whilst cycling gases then you either need a heat source or supplemental co2 or both and you'll probably still have to cycle a couple of times a day. There is absolutely no way of getting around this if you already have thermal insulation sorted and u can't change ur intake air temp.
 
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