Beezcheeze
Well-Known Member
Explain ^^ if you don't mind. I'm learning about soil too
my first growop and journal
- Thread starter cbuts05
- Start date
mikeykrinshaw12
Well-Known Member
As the pots dry out- since he just transplanted a week ago- the plants roots are expanding in the soil to seek moist nutrient rich areas to draw water and necessary nutrition. The plant uses the energy produced by photosynthesis to do this. It is not storing its energy at this point, but using it and maintaining its balance to establish a strong foundation to grow from. Things in soil take a little more time that if everything is right within reach of the roots (like hydro, DWC, DTW, etc), but because of that is also better off if there is an issue (forget to water, temps spike higher etc).
So, when he waters again, the plants will have established a better foundation, it will use its first 12-18 hrs of light after being watered to store energy and produce slight vegetative growth, and will have enough stored energy and a good enough root establishment to be wounded (topped) and recover with vigor.
For example, if topped before watering, it would cause a shock to the plant and would be more difficult to recover because its roots are currently seeking to maintain the balance. After watering everything, water, nutrients/minerals, will be available to the plant readily for recovery.
Also, after watering the xylem opens more and has faster movement, and oxygen will flow more freely though the plant to help cellular division. once the plant heals some and recovers and puts out its new shoots, the phloem will open into a two way flow creating a circular movement that will help the lower shoots grow with more vigor and access to nutrition and water. Ever wonder why those lower shoots suddenly grow a few days after topping that is why.
The plant will focus on recovering and re-establishing its balance until after the next watering- with minimal veg growth. If he gives a micro boost at that time he will see exponential growth until the watering/feeding after that.
Hope that all makes sense and is easy to follow.
mikeykrinshaw12
Well-Known Member
http://www.phschool.com/science/biology_place/labbench/lab9/images/xylem.gif
http://www.bbc.co.uk/schools/gcsebitesize/science/add_ocr_gateway/green_world/planttransportrev1.shtml
Different plants have different "setups" in terms of how their xylem and phloem work. the following link demonstrates a variety of ways they can work and there are more.
http://quoteimg.com/xylem-and-phloem-diagram/
http://www.bbc.co.uk/schools/gcsebitesize/science/add_ocr_gateway/green_world/planttransportrev1.shtml
Different plants have different "setups" in terms of how their xylem and phloem work. the following link demonstrates a variety of ways they can work and there are more.
http://quoteimg.com/xylem-and-phloem-diagram/
mikeykrinshaw12
Well-Known Member
done giving you my input. best of luck.
Beezcheeze
Well-Known Member
Very great explanation and links. Makes perfect since. I think mr c.butts will catch on to being patient etc once he's got this first grow done and sees the yeild. I know I was itchy to do everything at first. They'll survive im sure cbutts but what he's explaining ^ means topping when you did takes away all the energy that was focused on roots and uses it all on recovering from the topping. But when topping when he said, the plant has energy stored up and isn't busy working on the roots, therefore will recover from the topping faster and with less work.
These things look healthy to me..and were ready to be topped for sure..not gonna waste 3 days of hydro to cut it off..don't get all offended and pissy ..they been transplanted for 3 days now and still a bit of moistness to the soil..no need to get negative
Edit: not towards u beez lol
Beezcheeze
Well-Known Member
They do look good. Way better than at first. Just don't over feed them and they'll do good. But I'd def make a mental note for next time about what he explained. I see this in so many threads. Just peopl try to spend time and help noobs with learning and then they don't listen or do something else before reading the advice. So people just get over trying to give advice or frustrated. You really can't tell someone's attitude through messeges anyway. I doubt he was that bad. But your asking a lot of questions about growing and specifically what to do with a lot of things. And when someone gives you the best correct advise and you do something else then they give up.
Totally get what he was saying and I actually didn't even read his msg til after I did it..
Beezcheeze
Well-Known Member
That's just what I figured lol. Those plants are definitly strong now. They'll recover.im so stoked I think I may have close to 3 1/2 ounces off this one plant I showed you. Surprised me. Can't wait to do 4. But shit I couldn't imagine trimming 15 plants. My hands are all arthritis (at 26 lol). Are all your seeds female man??
Ya dude..cost me 150$ so in reality they should all be female right ? I wait til I switch to 12/12 to fins out or what .. And that's great man more the merrier that's awesome for one plant..I'm hoping to get 3 ozs myself haha..I'd be happy with 1.5-2lbs.. Wondering how many times I should top or what else I should do.next.. Not sure how wide these will grow lol..I topped 14/15 lol maybe I'll fim the other one lol
Beezcheeze
Well-Known Member
Yes you could be practicing different techniques on different plants. What I would do is just leav them how they are untill they bush out a bit and you see they are fully recovered from the topping. And have grown 3 more modes on each top.then I would supper crop each top close to where it meets the main stem and let it recover for a week. There will be two tops per plant now and they will be sturdy from the supercropping. Then once they are growing great again, top both of your tops creating 4 tops per plant. Let the plant grow to about 2' or less all the while tying down the stems, training the plants to grow like the picture lol. Can use pipe cleaners and wrap the branches to the main stem to train. And leave the 15th plant alone the whole time to see the difference. This is all just advise and may need to be tweaked depending on the strain, how much they stretch, and your skill level at training a plant. I had great results from low stress training. And will always do it. But with soil this all may be too much I just don't know
Beezcheeze
Well-Known Member
You may only get 10 great plants you may get 15 never know. If heir good seeds you'll have more. But the idea is to keep the canopy of all the plants level, and a nice good strong breeze blowing air across the entire canopy(the tops of the plants). So if one isn't growing as fast as the rest then tie down the rest a bit, or superctop the shorty to catch up. Or set the shorter plants on blocks to match the heighth of the rest.
mikeykrinshaw12
Well-Known Member
All I am trying to do is help you understand the reasons your plants are falling farther and father behind mine- which are showing sex, twice the nodal development, already shooting branches-
You are one of those guys that just has to fuck up and watch it happen to learn
You are one of those guys that just has to fuck up and watch it happen to learn
Ah well nobody's perfect.. Ill learn the hard way if i have to but i thought it was alright.
Here's
some
more picsLights are 27" away from top of plant reading 78-82.. Better then 94 lol..so I did top right ?
Attachments
Beezcheeze
Well-Known Member
Try not to cut so close to the nose on the main stem. Where that mode meets the main stem is where the two shoots come out. If you damage those then they won't grow from there. I leave a knub sticking up above the node. Read the mainlining thread I posted back a bit. Not that your mainlining but you'll see what I mean.
Beezcheeze
Well-Known Member
Try to be a sponge on here tho. Absorb info. Your completly new to growing so any advise should be useful. I'm the same way gotta leane it myself the hard way. But if you want 2 lbs and your asking a lot of questions. Then try to follow some of the tips givin. Including with your exaust fans. Like running both of them. Lol. I wanna see that shit cause it'll make it cooler
True..
Here's a vid lol
I went overkill n got two 16" fans.. Blows the plants around constantly.even on low..is this bad? Is it ok for them to constantly be moving
Tour:
mikeykrinshaw12
Well-Known Member
It is alright- It's your grow. All that matters is you, and you are trying to do your best to get your best. That isn't what frustrates me.
As Beez said, you are asking for advice and you are not experienced.
I have gotten paid for grow op design, set up, installation, maintenance, and regular consulting. Working around the preferences of the growers of course.
I have bred my own strains and considered an asset to good growers that produce well regularly- just as they are an asset to me.
What frustrates me- is I have Shown you how well my techniques work- would rather not flood your journal with my pics. Have offered advice that hours of research and years of experience will lead you to understand. Adopting the techniques and then understanding them causes your results to suffer. Like rushing into topping because you didn't want to do it too late, ignoring the advice of veterans and not researching the technique to understand it and be more successful.
I explained earlier in this thread ways to pinch FIM- using scissors literally does the same thing, but with more precise results. You cannot FEEL the plant when using an instrument, and being able to FEEL the cluster of new growth (gently, lightly) allows you to understand the form of the new growth and pinch AROUND the newest (densest) growth, while still severing the secondary set (second oldest growth, you can feel the dense area slope slope out into thin leaves, mid slope is best pinch FIM, and you peel back the largest leafset that is still closed). Beez offered his advice as well which works too, and has different results.
Using scissors for a desired effect means that you already understand the structure of the new growth in the top cluster, and know how to clip it for desired results because you know how the plant will react.
For what You are going for- you do not want to actually pinch off the main vertical stem as you did. Just the newest formation of leaves at the top, and not even all of them, the method for discovering where to cut/pinch is described above- unless you know how to visualize the structure and make the cuts to the desired effect.
If you shoot in the dark and aren't aware of what you are doing- its harder to pinpoint what exactly you did and understand both- what works well, and what doesn't.