Two plants in same environment and same feeding but..
- Thread starter ethabhae
- Start date
dbdweller
Active Member
They are doing fine. You would like to get your day temps a little cooler. Good rule of thumb is approx 10F either way. The colder the better. great would be to get the day around 65-70 around this time of your flower and the hum around 55-65
When they get colder they produce more glands to protect the flower.
Peace out
When they get colder they produce more glands to protect the flower.
Peace out
*BUDS
Well-Known Member
They need more P and K.
Phosphorus (P)
Also identified by slow growth, leaves will become a very dark green or purple color and may have red or purple veins. Leaves may be quite small and possibly deformed. Using a high P fertilizer should correct the problem.
Potassium (K)
This is tricky because your marijuana will exhibit vigorous growth so excessive height may be your first clue. Sometimes the tips of the large lower leaves will turn brown and die. Spots and areas of dead tissue (necrosis) may form on the blades, particularly on the edges. Leaves may be pale or yellow with red petioles and stems. Branches will break easily. Treat with a high K fertilizer. Recovery will be slow. New growth will not have the red color, and leaves will stop spotting after a couple of weeks.
Phosphorus (P)
Also identified by slow growth, leaves will become a very dark green or purple color and may have red or purple veins. Leaves may be quite small and possibly deformed. Using a high P fertilizer should correct the problem.
Potassium (K)
This is tricky because your marijuana will exhibit vigorous growth so excessive height may be your first clue. Sometimes the tips of the large lower leaves will turn brown and die. Spots and areas of dead tissue (necrosis) may form on the blades, particularly on the edges. Leaves may be pale or yellow with red petioles and stems. Branches will break easily. Treat with a high K fertilizer. Recovery will be slow. New growth will not have the red color, and leaves will stop spotting after a couple of weeks.
Diabolical666
Well-Known Member
To late in flower to transplant
dbdweller
Active Member
That looks more like strain then anything else. When you have that def this late in the flower it will normally start under the leaf first. Thats were it breaths. It will cover most of the plant and you will see it on the bottom leafs first. I say that because it is so pronounced just around the flower site.
But also remember this is just my opinion. You can ask 20 people and get 20 different answers.
If you went with pk13/14 then you would have done yourself better to apply during the 3 and 4th week. while bud development was in full boar and they were in there first stage of growth in flower, there are 3 grow stages in flower
But also remember this is just my opinion. You can ask 20 people and get 20 different answers.
If you went with pk13/14 then you would have done yourself better to apply during the 3 and 4th week. while bud development was in full boar and they were in there first stage of growth in flower, there are 3 grow stages in flower
dbdweller
Active Member
One pic in your first three is kind of frosty but i do not see anything on the rest. You said it was the 40th flower day? do you mean when you went to 12/12 or when she showed her sex.? I do not know the strain but i would have to say she showed around 7-10 days which puts you around 4 weeks since. If so she should have snow on her especially in the last pic but i do not know what you are going through.
I want to say they look great. Color seems to be coming in nice. Some yellow i think is the strain, but around this time she might be a little low on cal because of the extra amount they require during this stage.
Are you happy?
I want to say they look great. Color seems to be coming in nice. Some yellow i think is the strain, but around this time she might be a little low on cal because of the extra amount they require during this stage.
Are you happy?
dbdweller
Active Member
I hate to hear anything about fast dry but of course we all understand no bud lol
the chart would depend on what nutes and sup you use. I use Bonticare
The 40 days on flower.. is that from the 12/12 swtich or when you had noticed the sex
You should be coming towards the end of any heavy cal. and more towards flushing. if you are at 47 days now. You started the post last Sat.
Your sweet sups are good a little heavy right now. Molasses of other ones. your actual food should be getting lighter now too. unless you have a 9-10 week strain. if you do then you can be at the heavy end of eveything for another week or 2.
the chart would depend on what nutes and sup you use. I use Bonticare
The 40 days on flower.. is that from the 12/12 swtich or when you had noticed the sex
You should be coming towards the end of any heavy cal. and more towards flushing. if you are at 47 days now. You started the post last Sat.
Your sweet sups are good a little heavy right now. Molasses of other ones. your actual food should be getting lighter now too. unless you have a 9-10 week strain. if you do then you can be at the heavy end of eveything for another week or 2.
reapersfamiliar
Active Member
yes. what strain?
EDIT: don't flush, you wash away the final nurient uptake.the only time you need to flush, is if you overnuted by accident otherwise there is no reason to.
dbdweller
Active Member
Well that's were options come in. You need to flush ALWAYS in our opion. lol when you are coming into the last week or just before.
Most growers are not big fans of leaving chemicals inside the plant.
another reason is there is always chemical build up at the roots most of the time and the flush will wash it in.
When i can look at the ash and see its clean and burned right and its white i know i have NOT been smoking chemicals and i am tasting the TRUE plant. Not supplements or what not.
I also find that by flushing, while my girls dry, they will still change color while curing a lot. We have tended to find out that when chemicals are not flushed she will not change as prominent and have a tendency to turn more brown.
But like i say this is totally a growers choice. no right or wrong.
Most growers are not big fans of leaving chemicals inside the plant.
another reason is there is always chemical build up at the roots most of the time and the flush will wash it in.
When i can look at the ash and see its clean and burned right and its white i know i have NOT been smoking chemicals and i am tasting the TRUE plant. Not supplements or what not.
I also find that by flushing, while my girls dry, they will still change color while curing a lot. We have tended to find out that when chemicals are not flushed she will not change as prominent and have a tendency to turn more brown.
But like i say this is totally a growers choice. no right or wrong.
dbdweller
Active Member
Myth #4 “Flushing plants with plain water removes chemicals.”
Flushing your plants in the last two weeks of a grow is one the most common pieces of knowledge when it comes to pre-harvest time.
So is flushing your plants before harvest a good idea? Yes. But not for the reason that most people think…
Any time you feed your plants, they intake nutrients which - in too-high amounts - are not able to be used by the plants and therefore can add a 'chemically' taste to your buds. Flushing in the last two weeks gives your plant a chance to “drink water” without extra minerals to further alter the taste. It also clears out any build up of excess minerals or nutrient salts in your medium (such as coco coir, or water for DWC).
However, flushing does not "leach out" nutrients/minerals that are already in the buds. While your plant can use up extra stored nutrients in the leaves of the plant, this does not remove a "chemical" taste from your buds if you've provided too many nutrients throughout the flowering stage.
Many people believe that flushing with plain water takes nutrients (and thus bad taste) out of the buds, in a sense, returning them to their ‘natural flavor’. Unfortunately, this just isn’t the case.
When it comes to ensuring good taste and smell of your cannabis plants, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Instead of relying on the flush to prevent extra nutrients from being stored in your buds, it's better to avoid ever giving the plant more nutrients than it can use in the first place. That means keeping nutrient levels as low as you can throughout the grow while preventing nutrient deficiencies.
The last three to four weeks are crucial in determining flavor and over all quality in many ways. It is important to understand that from my perspective, flushing is an essential part of growing medical grade Cannabis and is integral to the ripening stage. Some gardeners do nothing but flush for this entire stage, especially if they have fed their soil properly.
One of the biggest common errors I see is an understanding that continuing to feed your plants will ensure that they continue to grow bigger and riper. As a result people end up feeling that the flush is the equivalent to "giving up" as they can no longer jam nutrients into the plant. I consider this an error because it doesn't account for the much slower rate that plants metabolize and ultimately use the nutrients you feed it.
When I notice a change for better or worse in my garden and I suspect it has something to do with the nutrients, I usually look FIRST to what they were eating the previous week and not what I have been feeding them in the current week.
By planning adequate time for plants to truly flush and exhaust their nutrient stores, your plants will fully ripen. By flushing properly, you give your plants the time to receive and respond to the hormonal signals released during, and triggered by the flushing process. Many of the most exciting colors, smells and trichome swelling occur during this stage due specifically to the lack of nutrients in the plant, so don't miss out!
There are a couple of supplements that I have seen produce more or less universally improved results.
At this stage, using a PK formula will ensure your plants get adequate phosphorus and potassium - the nutrients needed most at this stage. Many gardeners use different techniques to develop hardness and ripeness, some include: adding molasses to your feeding schedule and using Bombastic by Atami. Often, gardeners will deliberately stress the plant mildly right at the end of the flower stage.
Many of the desirable characteristics about Cannabis are largely a result of the biological defense mechanisms employed by the Cannabis plant. By creating somewhat stressful environment, you "trick" the plant into focusing its last energy at protecting itself from the stress and recovering which can lead to increased resin and potency of cannabinoids as well as an increase in essential oils.
Light shocking (finishing the plants out with 24 to 48 hours of straight darkness) and PK spiking (adding very high levels of Phosphorus and Potassium) are two methods that when used in moderation on healthy thriving plants, consistently delivers a small but noticeable boost in quality that can often serve as the "cherry" on top of your sundae.
Flushing your plants in the last two weeks of a grow is one the most common pieces of knowledge when it comes to pre-harvest time.
So is flushing your plants before harvest a good idea? Yes. But not for the reason that most people think…
Any time you feed your plants, they intake nutrients which - in too-high amounts - are not able to be used by the plants and therefore can add a 'chemically' taste to your buds. Flushing in the last two weeks gives your plant a chance to “drink water” without extra minerals to further alter the taste. It also clears out any build up of excess minerals or nutrient salts in your medium (such as coco coir, or water for DWC).
However, flushing does not "leach out" nutrients/minerals that are already in the buds. While your plant can use up extra stored nutrients in the leaves of the plant, this does not remove a "chemical" taste from your buds if you've provided too many nutrients throughout the flowering stage.
Many people believe that flushing with plain water takes nutrients (and thus bad taste) out of the buds, in a sense, returning them to their ‘natural flavor’. Unfortunately, this just isn’t the case.
When it comes to ensuring good taste and smell of your cannabis plants, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Instead of relying on the flush to prevent extra nutrients from being stored in your buds, it's better to avoid ever giving the plant more nutrients than it can use in the first place. That means keeping nutrient levels as low as you can throughout the grow while preventing nutrient deficiencies.
The last three to four weeks are crucial in determining flavor and over all quality in many ways. It is important to understand that from my perspective, flushing is an essential part of growing medical grade Cannabis and is integral to the ripening stage. Some gardeners do nothing but flush for this entire stage, especially if they have fed their soil properly.
One of the biggest common errors I see is an understanding that continuing to feed your plants will ensure that they continue to grow bigger and riper. As a result people end up feeling that the flush is the equivalent to "giving up" as they can no longer jam nutrients into the plant. I consider this an error because it doesn't account for the much slower rate that plants metabolize and ultimately use the nutrients you feed it.
When I notice a change for better or worse in my garden and I suspect it has something to do with the nutrients, I usually look FIRST to what they were eating the previous week and not what I have been feeding them in the current week.
By planning adequate time for plants to truly flush and exhaust their nutrient stores, your plants will fully ripen. By flushing properly, you give your plants the time to receive and respond to the hormonal signals released during, and triggered by the flushing process. Many of the most exciting colors, smells and trichome swelling occur during this stage due specifically to the lack of nutrients in the plant, so don't miss out!
There are a couple of supplements that I have seen produce more or less universally improved results.
At this stage, using a PK formula will ensure your plants get adequate phosphorus and potassium - the nutrients needed most at this stage. Many gardeners use different techniques to develop hardness and ripeness, some include: adding molasses to your feeding schedule and using Bombastic by Atami. Often, gardeners will deliberately stress the plant mildly right at the end of the flower stage.
Many of the desirable characteristics about Cannabis are largely a result of the biological defense mechanisms employed by the Cannabis plant. By creating somewhat stressful environment, you "trick" the plant into focusing its last energy at protecting itself from the stress and recovering which can lead to increased resin and potency of cannabinoids as well as an increase in essential oils.
Light shocking (finishing the plants out with 24 to 48 hours of straight darkness) and PK spiking (adding very high levels of Phosphorus and Potassium) are two methods that when used in moderation on healthy thriving plants, consistently delivers a small but noticeable boost in quality that can often serve as the "cherry" on top of your sundae.
carl08
Well-Known Member
Dbd Weller it seems you no your shit can you help I'm running a 600 hps 11ltr square pots canna coco canna a+b wiv pk once a week plus boost canna boost and your bang on mine are 3weeks in bud from when they showed my they were flowers then I count the days so 5 weeks total anyways sorry ow my temp 26c daytime and like 21 Nite pH all good fully blackout my I've got just two lady's 1 blue ched and calfoina orange the blue chef pukka but my orange got the odd pollon sack on it I pick like ten off now I'm getting the odd 1 will that mess the lot up but both defo got buds the cheese just fat but the orange seems smaller plz help
dbdweller
Active Member
I am not 100% sure what you said. You have 2 girls one had pollen sacks and you plucked them off. Now you find one here or there? I never like to run the risk so i always pull when i see a hermie. I am not a big fan of hermie strains. They are so unpredictable.
You would like to get you temps down late in flower 78 is good but optium would be low 70s when you start getting into the last few weeks.
Does this help?