• Here is a link to the full explanation: https://rollitup.org/t/welcome-back-did-you-try-turning-it-off-and-on-again.1104810/

still having car problems?

Grandpapy

Well-Known Member
Are you blowing white smoke/steam? That would indicate a bad head gasket, Try driving just a few miles then check your water level before it overheats, are you losing antifreeze? if not I would rule out the gasket. you could always do a compression ck too.
 

ODanksta

Well-Known Member
Well. If you love it that much, sounds like you need to go ahead and pony up for the overhaul. Yeah. Lots a dough.

What's worrysome is. A bad head gasket sometimes turns into a warped head in some types, especially aluminum.

I dunno dude. Good luck with that.
Definitely aluminum
 

ODanksta

Well-Known Member
Are you blowing white smoke/steam? That would indicate a bad head gasket, Try driving just a few miles then check your water level before it overheats, are you losing antifreeze? if not I would rule out the gasket. you could always do a compression ck too.
Read 5 post up
 

ODanksta

Well-Known Member
Too much smoke! cough cough

Sorry, I read that as you were ready to use "head gasket in a can".
Yeah it a temporary fix, I've done it before and it works for about a year.. But the bottle has enough for 3 times of use.. It's crazy I didn't think it would and did, so I am a believer but some mechanics are against it because it clog stuff up and coats the inside of the engine..
 

Grandpapy

Well-Known Member
My Grandfather:
Here, take this tablespoon of flaxseed, pound it with a hammer, scoop it up and put in your radiator"

It worked great. I got a new leak months later and figured two tablespoons would be even better, it plugged the leak and my heater core. I stay away from quick fixes when I can.
 

curious2garden

Well-Known Mod
Staff member
Are you blowing white smoke/steam? That would indicate a bad head gasket, Try driving just a few miles then check your water level before it overheats, are you losing antifreeze? if not I would rule out the gasket. you could always do a compression ck too.
Has your mechanic performed a chemical block test for hydrocarbons in the cooling system? Also, has he performed a cylinder pressure and leakage test for a definitive diagnosis? Just a suggestion. When I had this same problem with my 1986 Isuzu POS, it turned out to be the water pump impeller spinning on the shaft and it only overheated at cruise speeds. Also take a look at the oil to see if it has water in it or the water/coolant to see if there is oil in it. Let me know what the vehicle and engine size is so I can see if I have run across this problem before or possibly research my tech data. Hope this helps some.

Channeled by Annie via The Hub!
 

anzohaze

Well-Known Member
Ok I got it out the shop yesterday, drove it for about a hour. Ran perfect nice and cold with the AC blasting away going about 80 for a good proportion of the drive, it drove flawlessly. Today I drove it for about a hour and a half, traffic was kinda bad in spots, and unfortunately it started getting hot again.. But at least this time it didn't boil over and steam and lose all the coolant but it did get hot.. Ok this is what has been replaced and done in order..
First had a pressure test done, leaked from the water pump, so had the water pump, timing chain and front main seal replaced $540. Still overheated, took it back did a pressure test again, this time it leaked from the thermostat housing. So replaced thermostat and gasket and fan clutch $230.. This time they said the left it running at idle for about a hour with no problems. I took it home and it overheated in about 20 mins of driving.. took it back to the shop, so they flushed and boiled the radiator at a shop that specializes in radiators, that shop said the radiator was fine with no problems.. So then they bought a new radiator cap and replaced a sensor $100 charge plus I tipped them $20 because that is how I roll.. drove last night night for one hour no problems, today after a hour and a half it overheated, but didn't steam out or loose any coolant.. Went back to the shop today, I asked him about the the cats, he said, he didn't think it was the cats if I wasn't losing power, I said it didn't really lose power, but sometimes in the summer when it's really hot that when I first start the truck it will idle real rough for a couple seconds and I have to give it a little gas then it runs fine.. He said then it could be a head gasket, however he had already checked the head gasket and it was fine.. I couldnt leave it today, because I need it this weekend but I will bring it back on monday.. I told him if was the head gasket I wanted to use a "fix a head gasket in a bottle stuff" which I have used before with success. Some stuff called blue devil, its pretty expensive at 80 a bottle but compared to a head gasket it's a lot cheaper, I know it's not great for your car, but I don't have a couple grand for a head gasket at the moment.. I guess I could sell it, but it's a good truck that is a 4x4 and I really would like to have a 4x4 for colorado when I move.. so I don't know what to do.. I could be shady and sell it for probably around 3,500 ish and the new buyer won't know for a couple days after I sold it to them or I can keep dropping money hoping it will get fixed
What do you drive bro
 

WeedFreak78

Well-Known Member
How did they check the headgasket? Did they do compression and leak down tests? What coolant do you use? Alum motors need special coolant with a higher silicone content to protect the alum from corrosion, we learned that the hard way with a Cadillac with a alum northstar motor, the previous owner ran regular coolant and it ate away the head/block mating surfaces. If it's an alum headed or all alum motor don't try quick fixes on a head gasket unless you have no problem with junking it, or doing a rebuild, in the next couple years.
 

ODanksta

Well-Known Member
Has your mechanic performed a chemical block test for hydrocarbons in the cooling system? Also, has he performed a cylinder pressure and leakage test for a definitive diagnosis? Just a suggestion. When I had this same problem with my 1986 Isuzu POS, it turned out to be the water pump impeller spinning on the shaft and it only overheated at cruise speeds. Also take a look at the oil to see if it has water in it or the water/coolant to see if there is oil in it. Let me know what the vehicle and engine size is so I can see if I have run across this problem before or possibly research my tech data. Hope this helps some.

Channeled by Annie via The Hub!
Idk at this point...
 

ODanksta

Well-Known Member
How did they check the headgasket? Did they do compression and leak down tests? What coolant do you use? Alum motors need special coolant with a higher silicone content to protect the alum from corrosion, we learned that the hard way with a Cadillac with a alum northstar motor, the previous owner ran regular coolant and it ate away the head/block mating surfaces. If it's an alum headed or all alum motor don't try quick fixes on a head gasket unless you have no problem with junking it, or doing a rebuild, in the next couple years.
Im not a hundred % sure if it is aluminium
 

H R Puff N Stuff

Well-Known Member
i know this may sound elementary but did they run the heater and bleed the cooling system of air . i had the mechanic work on my wifes van they kept having issues and that was finally the cause.
 
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