Ok to thin while in flower?

ButchyBoy

Well-Known Member
If your humidity is staying below 45% during lights off I would be looking at adding more fans.

Do you have enough room to add more?

I don't think I saw it but do or have you sprayed them with anything at all?? Basically have you added moisture to the room via sprays??
 

Nursejanna

Active Member
If your humidity is staying below 45% during lights off I would be looking at adding more fans.

Do you have enough room to add more?

I don't think I saw it but do or have you sprayed them with anything at all?? Basically have you added moisture to the room via sprays??
I have 4 wall fans and two floor fans going at all times in my 9 plant room, my CFM's are ample. I also have an air ionizer to help mop up any mildew spores which should be helping. Plus two dehumidifiers running constantly. I only spray heavily once weekly, initially used neem oil + plant dr, now switched to sm-90 which is safe for later flower (at day 30 now). Daily it's spot spraying so not adding much to moisture. Thanks for the ideas! You guys are awesome, thanks for trouble-shooting with me:blsmoke:.

Hoping the switch to a new strain will nix the problem, but still have to deal with this strain for two more turns or lose grow time. I think I have wpm PTSD, lol!
 

Nursejanna

Active Member
So I gave my plants a good trim, removed all traces of mildew and cleaned the centers and popcorn buds to improve air flow. I added b-12 to help them recover, and wondering if I should bump up my feeding ppm's since the plants lost some of their stores? So far they seem happy, and hopefully that measure will keep the wpm from proliferating to the point that it impacts my harvest again. I figured it's better to stunt them a few days and deal with a longer maturation than have wpm issues again. Thoughts on nutrients?
 

chuck estevez

Well-Known Member
So I gave my plants a good trim, removed all traces of mildew and cleaned the centers and popcorn buds to improve air flow. I added b-12 to help them recover, and wondering if I should bump up my feeding ppm's since the plants lost some of their stores? So far they seem happy, and hopefully that measure will keep the wpm from proliferating to the point that it impacts my harvest again. I figured it's better to stunt them a few days and deal with a longer maturation than have wpm issues again. Thoughts on nutrients?
plants produce their own b vitamins
http://puyallup.wsu.edu/~Linda Chalker-Scott/Horticultural Myths_files/Myths/Vitamin B1.pdf
 

Grandpapy

Well-Known Member
Sometimes it's systemic.
I had a tent full of Space Queen that every 2 weeks would show PM, no matter what I treated it with. Other tents in the room were unaffected.

The only thing i didn't try was a full dunk, roots and all w/ Eagle 20.

Ended up just washing it off w/plain water the last 4 weeks then having it all blasted into oil.
 

Milovan

Well-Known Member
A lot of growers mistake the fan leaves excreting sugars for PM.
I get a lot of this but no harm to the plants.
Excreted sugars start out as clear liquid then dries as a white looking
PM but it is not PM. This happens all the time daily on my plants.
 

Nursejanna

Active Member
Sometimes it's systemic.
I had a tent full of Space Queen that every 2 weeks would show PM, no matter what I treated it with. Other tents in the room were unaffected.

The only thing i didn't try was a full dunk, roots and all w/ Eagle 20.

Ended up just washing it off w/plain water the last 4 weeks then having it all blasted into oil.

This sounds like my issue...doesn't seem to matter how I change the environment or treatments, the wpm pops back up. The thing that seemed to help the most was adding plant dr to the water, which would treat systemically, further supporting this theory. Thank for your insights! I may end up processing a bunch of my next couple of harvests, but at least it's not a total loss...
 

Nursejanna

Active Member
A lot of growers mistake the fan leaves excreting sugars for PM.
I get a lot of this but no harm to the plants.
Excreted sugars start out as clear liquid then dries as a white looking
PM but it is not PM. This happens all the time daily on my plants.
I lost half of my last harvest to wpm, not fan leaf sugars. I wish that's all it was...
 

brodietheconeking

Well-Known Member
Yea its controversial but I have just chopped a grocery bags worth of lower leaf and stem per plant on my 5th week of flower,you can't really lollipop in veg unless you veg for quite a long time even then the areas you lollipopped will gain re growth.
 

Nursejanna

Active Member
Yea its controversial but I have just chopped a grocery bags worth of lower leaf and stem per plant on my 5th week of flower,you can't really lollipop in veg unless you veg for quite a long time even then the areas you lollipopped will gain re growth.
Did you notice if this stunted the plants significantly? I'm trying to time out my next turn. Thanks!
 

brodietheconeking

Well-Known Member
Did you notice if this stunted the plants significantly? I'm trying to time out my next turn. Thanks!

The plants are fine man,the stunted growth is bs,I wonder if the same myths once applied to humans hair and nails...,people cut there grass it comes back within a week,people cut there hedges that grows back also no "stunt"
 

hydroMD

Well-Known Member
:wall::wall::wall:

All of those leafs are there for a reason, they feed the plant!!!

The flowers do not absorb light and supply the plant with what it needs, that is the purpose of the fan leaf's!!!
What you pour into your soil or add to your rez feeds those leafs not the flowers!!


You do understand that the plant pulls from those big leafs to feed the flowers right??? That would be why they yellow near the end of the flowering cycle!!

If you have a PM issue, get some more fans and move air down low along with reducing humidity.

Plants do not grow without leafs!!! :peace:
There are fan leaves, and there are grand daddy fan leaves.

One grand daddy fan shading 6 newer fan leaves is not working for ya.

and fan leaves serve many purposes, but in later stages they are mostly nutrient and water storage. The smaller fans growing from the upper stalks and sweet leaf do provide photosynthesis for bud growth as well, which is why its such an argued subject.

Just as controversial as supercropping promoting auxin production thus increasing yields.

can be dependent on all sorts of variables and ive yet to see a single case study on the subject.

I have tried different methods with different strains and will say certain genetics do respond differently to different treatment.
 

hydroMD

Well-Known Member
I've tried milk, and hydrogen peroxide, and everything else my mentors and the hydro shop owner have suggested. It's not always easy to get rid of wpm, apparently. What I'm doing now has been the most effective, but is time consuming and still a not 100% fix. Keeping them trimmed of any overlap seems to help also, that's why I asked if ok in flower.
Your hydro store Is Busch league if they have not pointed you towards a sulfur burner.

Hands down #1 method for taking out PM. Run 4 hours for preventative and 8 hours to eliminate contaminates.

100% success. Fill burner cup with powdered suffer, hang it up, plug it in, walk away.
 

hydroMD

Well-Known Member
Sometimes it's systemic.
I had a tent full of Space Queen that every 2 weeks would show PM, no matter what I treated it with. Other tents in the room were unaffected.

The only thing i didn't try was a full dunk, roots and all w/ Eagle 20.

Ended up just washing it off w/plain water the last 4 weeks then having it all blasted into oil.
If Im not mistaken PM is all systematic. Once the plant has it, even clones could pop up with it.

If your rooms environment is dialed in, and all spores are killed, shouldnt pop back up. Night time temps can dictate this often
 

ButchyBoy

Well-Known Member
There are fan leaves, and there are grand daddy fan leaves.

One grand daddy fan shading 6 newer fan leaves is not working for ya.

and fan leaves serve many purposes, but in later stages they are mostly nutrient and water storage. The smaller fans growing from the upper stalks and sweet leaf do provide photosynthesis for bud growth as well, which is why its such an argued subject.

Just as controversial as supercropping promoting auxin production thus increasing yields.

can be dependent on all sorts of variables and ive yet to see a single case study on the subject.

I have tried different methods with different strains and will say certain genetics do respond differently to different treatment.
I do not claim to be a expert or anything so take my opinion with a grain of salt! I am not trying to start another defoliation argument either since there are plenty of those threads!!
I do a ton of reading on the subject. I have read Teaming with Microbes along with a few Botany books. I am now building no till buckets so I can see for myself how it works.

Every leaf on the plant is important to the growth and health of the plant. Without leafs the plant will suffer!

Here is a quote:

"Plants make food in their leaves. The leaves contain a pigment called chlorophyll, which colors the leaves green. Chlorophyll can make food the plant can use from carbon dioxide, water, nutrients, and energy from sunlight. This process is called photosynthesis."

From here:
http://www.mbgnet.net/bioplants/food.html


"efficient photosynthesis and the formation of complete carbohydrates is the foundation of plant health and immunity. Without efficient photosynthesis, plants will not achieve any level of immunity or performance. With functional photosynthesis and adequate levels of minerals and trace minerals to serve as enzyme cofactors, formation of complete proteins is initiated. As photosynthetic capacity and plant energy increase, plants begin to store surplus energy in lipids - plant oils. These lipids are the building blocks used to build plant protection compounds, called plant secondary metabolites (PSM5) or plant essential oils."

From here:

http://bionutrient.org/audio/2013_soil_nutrition_conference/2-Crop-HEALTH-Transitions-John-Kempf.pdf


Every plant makes its own food. The leafs are very important for this process so removing them is the same as reducing the food the plant needs to thrive! Proper soil will have everything the plant needs other than water. If you are growing in hydro the bottled nutes are replacing what the soil biology does. If you pour chemical nutes into soil you are killing the biology of the soil and will require you to continue to pour chemicals into the soil.
As long as the Rhizosphere is happy the plant will be healthy. Removing the one part of the plant that is responsible for feeding itself is counter productive. Nutes do not directly feed the flowers, they feed the leafs who in turn feed the flowers.

Any how, that is how I understand it! And I have to believe it after seeing the growth in the forest where no one has ever removed parts of plants thinking it will help them! Same with the pear, apple and cherry trees in my yard. If I were to remove the leafs I would not get a ton of fruit from them and my dog would not have the runs all summer. :lol:
 
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