DiY LED - Cree CXA3070

[beppe75]

hello guys, i searched all over the web to find th right components for my diy led with no success...
kingbrite is not responding anymore and heatsinks are really difficult to find in the eu.
i am now going for the initial plan for my 3'x3' grow tent of
5cxb3070 run from a hlg-185-c1050b @ 3000k
and
3cxa3070 z4 bin run from a hlg-120-c1050b @ 5000k
i need to cool them with arctic gt rev .2 80mm fans....
What do you think?
any feedback is welcome.
thank you.

 

[CellarDweller]

I am in no way skilled enough to give advice sorry , but glad you're chucking ideas into a pot that somebody else MIGHT be skilled enough to pass judgement on.

This is a forum and thank the Gods of Skunk that we have people to guide us here

 

[CellarDweller]

Sorry, but I really don't understand what you tried to say there.

Here is something that appears to do the required job - used for 2 hours a day at midday it could be interesting, though a trifle expensive and not DIY at all total cost €95 ish.

Fluorescent Lighting Controller, 24W 550mm T5 UVA 30%/UVB 12% and a reflector as well with IP67 rating on the controller.

Arcadia FD3P24T5
Arcadia ALRS24
Arcadia ACE1U5

 

[EfficientWatt]

Is there any importance in choosing G or H leds ? (last letter of code)

If I understood correctly, its something to do with the tolerance of (slight) variation in spectrum from one chip to another (McThingy Eliptic curve, and 2 step easywhite blabla ...)

Is there any reason to care which one we get ??
CXB3070-0000-000N0HAD30H
CXB3070-0000-000N0HAD30G

Sorry if this has already been covered somewhere in the previous 158 pages, that I did read, I just don't eh .. eh .. what was I saying ?!

 

[Kuifje76]

Is there any importance in choosing G or H leds ? (last letter of code)

If I understood correctly, its something to do with the tolerance of (slight) variation in spectrum from one chip to another (McThingy Eliptic curve, and 2 step easywhite blabla ...)

Is there any reason to care which one we get ??
CXB3070-0000-000N0HAD30H
CXB3070-0000-000N0HAD30G

Sorry if this has already been covered somewhere in the previous 158 pages, that I did read, I just don't eh .. eh .. what was I saying ?!

Some go for 2-step because of a more precise spectrum, but most just go for 4-step because it's mostly 5$ cheaper, you won't see the difference with the naked eye and neither do the plants
Someone correct me if i'm wrong

 

[nogod_]

Its more for color matching for lighting designer. When they are picking color temperatures for a project, clients arent going to like a lot of variation. For us...dont matta buy the cheaper one or whats available.

Is there any importance in choosing G or H leds ? (last letter of code)

If I understood correctly, its something to do with the tolerance of (slight) variation in spectrum from one chip to another (McThingy Eliptic curve, and 2 step easywhite blabla ...)

Is there any reason to care which one we get ??
CXB3070-0000-000N0HAD30H
CXB3070-0000-000N0HAD30G

Sorry if this has already been covered somewhere in the previous 158 pages, that I did read, I just don't eh .. eh .. what was I saying ?!

 

[bizfactory]

So I got some Ideal holders for the CXBs. Has anyone used these with a self tapping screw? I don't have a tapping bit and it looks very tricky. How do you get the LED to stay in the holder...I lined one up and pushed the little tension arm to the side to fit it in, but once I let off pressure it sort of just pops out. Any suggestions?

 

[Positivity]

So I got some Ideal holders for the CXBs. Has anyone used these with a self tapping screw? I don't have a tapping bit and it looks very tricky. How do you get the LED to stay in the holder...I lined one up and pushed the little tension arm to the side to fit it in, but once I let off pressure it sort of just pops out. Any suggestions?

I've never used self tapping screws that way but there should. be no problem. What i'd do is drill a hole in scrap aluminum or wood and figure out what size hole will allow the screw to go in easily without stripping the threads yet still hold securely. Then drill into your heatsink. It really helps to use a punch or nail and hammer to start the drill bit in. Otherwise it probably won't put a hole where you want it.

The cob holders can be a bitch when the cob pops out. It dosen't hold it in totally secure. What i do is make sure its seated as good as possible then gently with as little motion as possible set it in place. I've had that happen, not much you can do but try and be as steady as possible.

Don't be scared to try tapping. Just buy a cheap kit and practice on scrap..
Some people have made a good reccomendation to use a certain type that works better on non thru holes. Can't remember off hand what it was called. I personally drill through and use a cheap 4-40 tap drill bit kit off of amazon. When drillng or tapping its also always a good idea to use cutting fluid or some type of lubricant like wd-40 so the metal doesn't bind and break

 

[Doer]

Some go for 2-step because of a more precise spectrum, but most just go for 4-step because it's mostly 5$ cheaper, you won't see the difference with the naked eye and neither do the plants
Someone correct me if i'm wrong

I was just reading about this. The MacAdams Ellipse, is a math solution by MacAdams, that calculates the smallest area of the color charts where a human cannot perceive the color difference. All the colors in the MacAdams elliptical area of the binning charts, look the same at Step 1, and step 2. (concentric ellipse area)

By the time you get to the outer area of the ellipse, Step 5, the colors are different enough to tell by eye, in side by side, compares.

So, if you are lighting a wall of Art, you need Step 1 if you are The MET in NYC. Step 2 will do for the San Jose Art Museum.

A Step 4 set would look really weird in a hallway. All the colors would be slightly different.
But, if the luminaires are not together to compare light colors, side by side, Step 4 is fine.

For plant however, Step 4 is desirable, -H for Cree. That is because the plants appreciate a spread spectrum so a bit of almost human invisible color difference is good.

 

[Doer]

I've never used self tapping screws that way but there should. be no problem. What i'd do is drill a hole in scrap aluminum or wood and figure out what size hole will allow the screw to go in easily without stripping the threads yet still hold securely. Then drill into your heatsink. It really helps to use a punch or nail and hammer to start the drill bit in. Otherwise it probably won't put a hole where you want it.

The cob holders can be a bitch when the cob pops out. It dosen't hold it in totally secure. What i do is make sure its seated as good as possible then gently with as little motion as possible set it in place. I've had that happen, not much you can do but try and be as steady as possible.

Don't be scared to try tapping. Just buy a cheap kit and practice on scrap..
Some people have made a good reccomendation to use a certain type that works better on non thru holes. Can't remember off hand what it was called. I personally drill through and use a cheap 4-40 tap drill bit kit off of amazon. When drillng or tapping its also always a good idea to use cutting fluid or some type of lubricant like wd-40 so the metal doesn't bind and break

There are 3, basic tap types.

Run tap is the straight thru hole type.
Start tap is used after that to widen the top of hole slightly so a screw will start more easily
Bottom tap is used to finish the tap down the bottom of a blind, not thru hole.

The key to tapping is to understand it is a cutter. You have to work it, then back it off to clear it, then work it about a 1/2 turn.

 

[Doer]

So I got some Ideal holders for the CXBs. Has anyone used these with a self tapping screw? I don't have a tapping bit and it looks very tricky. How do you get the LED to stay in the holder...I lined one up and pushed the little tension arm to the side to fit it in, but once I let off pressure it sort of just pops out. Any suggestions?

Get a type 23 self tapping screw. It has fine threads and no bottom point.

 

[bizfactory]

Nice info. I assume the initial hole is driven with a drill. Is the tapping part done by hand? I saw a video on youtube where the guy put the tap bit into almost like a T shape and just slowly went in half a turn, backed off, then another half turn. Is by hand the best way?

I also can use a drill press if needed. I feel like that would be a good idea for at least the initial hole.

 

[Doer]

Nice info. I assume the initial hole is driven with a drill. Is the tapping part done by hand? I saw a video on youtube where the guy put the tap bit into almost like a T shape and just slowly went in half a turn, backed off, then another half turn. Is by hand the best way?

I also can use a drill press if needed. I feel like that would be a good idea for at least the initial hole.

You don't use a drill motor to tap. I just sit and watch tv.

T-handle tapping....and now...the News.

However if you have a drill press, that is almost essential for making a hole square to the surface.

 

[medicinehuman]

I just drilled and tapped 24 holes, if you do this use lots of wd-40 or some type of lube and just work back and forth. Once you master it it is quite easy. Just don't force or horse it or you will break tap.

 

[bizfactory]

Did you use a power drill for the initial holes?

 

[uzerneims]

Hey there folks!
I've question here - i wired up everything, but Cree CXA3070 makes a stripes in camera, but V29 not... Should that be?


Here is VERO29 3500k as you see, no stripes...


Here is CREE CXA 3070 AB 3000k wich is bright as hell, but it has those stripes like HPS's does...


Should that be?

 

[Scotch089]

I'm not sure it matters. All my panels, prebuilt SGS and AT200 included, have done that. Sometimes if I change my angle I can avoid it but sometimes it won't go away.

 

[SupraSPL]

Hey there folks!
I've question here - i wired up everything, but Cree CXA3070 makes a stripes in camera, but V29 not... Should that be?

What drivers are powering each one? If you swap drivers does it makes lines on the Vero29?

 

[nogod_]

Abiqua, post:

These are the two types I recommend, @ballist used the roll taps, which I have looked and heard Balax was the most desirable

4/40 Roll Tap Ebay Search [aka roll form, thread form, roll tap]
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X4/40 roll tap&_nkw=4/40 roll tap&_sacat=0

4/40 Spiral flute bottoming [Ebay Search]
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=4/40 roll tap&_from=R40&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X4/40 spiral flute bottoming tap&_nkw=4/40 spiral flute bottoming tap&_sacat=0

I've never used self tapping screws that way but there should. be no problem. What i'd do is drill a hole in scrap aluminum or wood and figure out what size hole will allow the screw to go in easily without stripping the threads yet still hold securely. Then drill into your heatsink. It really helps to use a punch or nail and hammer to start the drill bit in. Otherwise it probably won't put a hole where you want it.

The cob holders can be a bitch when the cob pops out. It dosen't hold it in totally secure. What i do is make sure its seated as good as possible then gently with as little motion as possible set it in place. I've had that happen, not much you can do but try and be as steady as possible.

Don't be scared to try tapping. Just buy a cheap kit and practice on scrap..
Some people have made a good reccomendation to use a certain type that works better on non thru holes. Can't remember off hand what it was called. I personally drill through and use a cheap 4-40 tap drill bit kit off of amazon. When drillng or tapping its also always a good idea to use cutting fluid or some type of lubricant like wd-40 so the metal doesn't bind and break

 

[medicinehuman]

Did you use a power drill for the initial holes?

I have a drill press, you can do it with a hand drill but it's hard to keep them straight