adjust ph before or after adding nutes?
- Thread starter USbeginnerguy
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Carolina Dream'n
Well-Known Member
We understand that your are ph'ing your water. What we don't understand is why u do it ass backwards. The ph down goes into the water after your nutrients. Silica goes in water first, then your calmag or base nutrients and after all that then ph. I know of no nutrient line that ups your ph, none, and I have ran a lot.
Calcium and silica do not play well if they are not in the water first, this my friend is chemistry, what u were talking is math.
Mad_Prophessor
Well-Known Member
Why is it ass backwards if I set the stage to add and run? You guys can add your PH adjusters after your nutes all you want. I PH the water anticipating what it is going to do. Then, it does it and all I have to do is use the mix. That is just being smart. Nutes is kind of a blanket term for this point. I have Cal-mag, Molasses, and Coco water that are sometimes part of the recipe. Let's not focus on the variables I am using, instead, this is a conceptual lesson. Let's fpcus more o the concept. Everybody different lineups and amendments.
Carolina Dream'n
Well-Known Member
The word anticipating proves the point. You're guessing. Like you said, do it how you please. But just know that is not the correct way to do it, plain and simple. Best of luck to you.
Mad_Prophessor
Well-Known Member
I am not guessing. I have measured the PH both ways and KNOW what it will be when I add the mixture. This is why we take the baseline to begin with and then again after we add the nutes. This way, there is no guessing. There is only smart planning with this technique. You won't have a new water source or fresh bottles of nutes for each feeding. Once you know what YOUR variables are, you can adjust before you add anything.
Carolina Dream'n
Well-Known Member
Do you. Imma do me.
Call every nutrient line in the world. They will all tell you to ph after. Ask any professional gardener. They will all tell you. Sorry im not gonna beat a dead horse.
Mad_Prophessor
Well-Known Member
Do anything you want, just don't say something is wrong because it is different. I know what things will be so I adjust it before they go in. You put things in and adjust it after. Why are you right and I am wrong? I just avoid the straight shot dumping phosphoric acid straight into my feed water. I let it dissolve in the reservoir before hand. If that doesn't sound like a better idea to you, than you are beyond hope.
Carolina Dream'n
Well-Known Member
I said it is wrong because it is wrong. Imma call a spade a spade bruh. Im not gonna sit here and having a pissing match with you, do your research and come back. This isn't a hobby for me, this is my job. I've done my research.
Like I said in my last post, nutrients have an order they must be put into the water to not have fallout. Silica. Calmag, the base and additives then ph. This is why your wrong.
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Mad_Prophessor
Well-Known Member
AS I said, different. We get to the same PH either way. Adding them in any order you want wont change the final PH and that is the ONLY point. Adjusting 1.2 points now or later makes no difference. It is just easier to do it at the beginning.
This is and has been my job for nearly 20 years I have done more research than a librarian. All the pros I know that grow in organic dirt do it my way if that means anything to you newbs reading this. That is called progress. Once we learn a better way to do things, we implement it.
Convince yourself of anything you want I have had results for 20 years. I will go on that.
Argue all you want.
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
AFTER, because nutrients will change your pH. While we're at it, adjust your EC, and check/adjust pH LAST.
dbkick
Well-Known Member
no no no, you're suppose to calculate what your tap comes in at, adjust that DOWN to where when you add your nutes (that you know the exact ph changing properties of) the ph is just right on man. Every-fucking-time.
chuck estevez
Well-Known Member
Because, 100 people have said after, BUT 1 guy just doesn't get it and is trying to convince the other 100 that backasswards is right.
wipe ass, take shit, wipe ass again, makes sense.
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Carolina Dream'n
Well-Known Member
This guy and they guy who is telling me you can't have 220v in an old house kept my ass laughing all last night. Ignorance is bliss.
churchhaze
Well-Known Member
Nutrients that change pH..
nitric acid is food (N) and it lowers pH
phosphoric acid is food (P) and it lowers pH
potassium hydroxide is food (K) and it raises pH
Silica isn't even a nutrient! The only reason potassium silicate provides food is because of the potassium.
churchhaze
Well-Known Member
I put 4 gallons of hard tap into a DWC, inject 40mL of technaflora pH down (nitric acid based), and then add my nutrients.. Then I never check the pH, because it always comes out between 5.4-6.0.
There's no point of checking the pH of the water before it has nutrients in it, but I add the pH down first, because I already know exactly how much it would take if it did it afterwards.
There's no point of checking the pH of the water before it has nutrients in it, but I add the pH down first, because I already know exactly how much it would take if it did it afterwards.
Carolina Dream'n
Well-Known Member
Silica is a element needed by a plant for proper growth. The definition of nutrient is a substance that provides nourishment essential for growth and the maintenance of life.
And if you wanna get really anal bout it, nitric and phosphoric acid are not considered nutrients by the usda because they don't make them put the npk ratios on bottle.
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churchhaze
Well-Known Member
What does a Silicon deficiency look like?
Carolina Dream'n
Well-Known Member
Silicon deficiency are vary rare, along with molybdenum, does not make it not a nutrient.
"A silicon deficiency prevents the plant from developing strong leaves stems or roots. It also makes the plant more susceptible to fungal and bacterial diseases and insect infestation. The plan also exhibits a reduction in it's photosynthetic activity and overall yield is reduced."-marijuana gardener saver by J.C Stitch.
"A silicon deficiency prevents the plant from developing strong leaves stems or roots. It also makes the plant more susceptible to fungal and bacterial diseases and insect infestation. The plan also exhibits a reduction in it's photosynthetic activity and overall yield is reduced."-marijuana gardener saver by J.C Stitch.
churchhaze
Well-Known Member
They are very potent foods.And if you wanna get really anal bout it, nitric and phosphoric acid are not considered nutrients by the usda because they don't make them put the npk ratios on bottle.
30% nitric acid has an NPK of 22-0-0 (22% N by mass)
30% phosphoric acid has an NPK of 0-72-0 (72% P205 equivalent by mass)
potassium hydroxide flakes have an NPK of 0-0-84 (84% K2O equivalent by mass)
potassium silicate powder has an NPK of 0-0-61 (61% K2O equivalent by mass)
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