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Help please...leaf death

bravedave

bravedave

Well-Known Member
A couple other differences this grow....

A little less perlite.

Spring water as opposed to RO, albeit the switch happened before flower last grow. I will get the water PH tested. A greenhouse/nursery next to the spring supposedly uses its water. It was closed as I drove by last night but was going to stop and see if they would share the water's analysis. Will pick up a tester. This spring has been putting out for over 100 years

Temperature and humidity quite different and swings widely here in July. I have no mini-split so July does have me jockeying around with exhausting, dehumidifying, and sometimes even adding ice to my intake filter box.

I started my ,Epson salt use earlier.

Taller plants. That plant you see above is pushing 4 ft which is about a foot taller than last grow and the room is definitely fuller horizontally also. Possibly less light getting below canopy. I also have 2 extra plants that were added that are sisters to the 6 on the floor but were added after their jobs as mothers was done. Because this causes the canopy to go wall to wall some reflective light to the main 6 is lost. Last grow these mothers were tossed because temps in my barn were below freezing at flip and I needed the room to work, in the room. Currently I can pull the 2 out and place outside the room to work.

There also is the fans differences mentioned above.

There is probably more but I have picked up on the general feeling that although a bit strange for me things are ok and I can safely put my head down, tuck the ball, and head to the goal line.

@Dr. Who 's suggestion for moving forward is close to my normal routine of cutting nutes in half at day 40 and again completely at 55 so I am going with his % deviation and a bit early.
I too now think and hope that @abe supercro nailed it early and that was certainly validated by @RM3 's hat tip. "yeppers" , rm3 is who I am trying to ultimately model my grow after whether he knows it or not. Thanks all though for chiming in and helping me out and putting me at ease. And wow it was almost completely serious. ;).
 
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Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Hmmm, After seeing the whole plant pic.....I stick to my diagnosis - overfeed as the base. The plant shows classic P tox...Too much P too early! There is a correlation to it looking like natural die off but, that's too much die off at this point.....P tox... @RM3 Take a look at the whole plant pics Rid....

Doc
 
Dr.Pecker

Dr.Pecker

Well-Known Member
Dr. Who said:
Hmmm, After seeing the whole plant pic.....I stick to my diagnosis - overfeed as the base. The plant shows classic P tox...Too much P too early! There is a correlation to it looking like natural die off but, that's too much die off at this point.....P tox... @RM3 Take a look at the whole plant pics Rid....

Doc
Click to expand...
K tox locks out nitrogen. or am I the one that's confused.
 
Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Dr.Pecker said:
K tox locks out nitrogen. or am I the one that's confused.
Click to expand...
It's not low N....That's a common conclusion by looking at his pics.....Except that the healthy part does not show N def...That's the true give away.....I see the P tox in other things it shows too.....I see it sooo often!
The slow but steady progress of yellowing from the bottom up. While the healthy parts do not loose that dark green healthy look...P tox.

Hmm,,Maybe P tox is not the term I should use. Say high P ??

Yes, K tox will lock out N.....You can hit the plant with more K then P before it shows it's respective tox problem. K tox or over use of K will express it's self in other ways first......N lock out is when it's getting pretty severe... Now massive doses of P&K will attack the plant on both fronts - fast. Like Beastie Blooms or Cha Ching at 0-50-30 and 9-50-30.....

I use extra K for several things,,,,I get no problems from that amount 0-0-3 or 4 being added. If you hit it with that much P to total over around *-8-*, (early in bloom is worse, by half that) it will begin the yellow out....usually slower for lesser amounts....

The plant does not recover from it....the damage is done....you can stop the advance...But in moderate to severe cases, you have reduced the yield.

Some of my S-Soils are higher on the long term P. Once in a while I get plants less tolerant of that and I have to use an amount of long term P lower then I usually do. That means if I like the plant I make a different soil for it.....for next time.....Here's why you keep notes on everything!

Doc

P.S. Hey Doc...The long winded answer was for newbies and novice growers.....to learn something from.
Not talking down to you - ok? 8)

Peace on.
 
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Dr.Pecker

Dr.Pecker

Well-Known Member
Its cool man I like to talk about this sort of thing. It does get a little complicated too much of this too much of that locks out other things. @bravedave I used jacks classic and bx promix a couple years ago. I had to use calmag plus and ph down with it. They seemed to favor 6.3 water ph. I cant remember if the jacks dropped the ph or not wouldn't hurt to check. I also remember flushing them out with 20 gallons of ph adjusted water. I tried to keep the water coming out close to what was going in as far as ppms. Spend 14$ on a ph kit.
 
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