CXB3590 1500W

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Hereseed

Active Member
Hey guys...
First of all, just want to say props @ supra! I've been living/lurking in your threads for the last couple weeks...I think I caught that diy bug! Went from" wtf " to "I might actually be able to pull this off" just based on these journals!
Was about to buy an optics light when I stumbled on this knowledge... Glad I did! I hope to be able to lean on you guys in the coming months as I undertake this project.
Still trying pick up on the jargon as I go... Hope asking a question is cool... Gonna start small in the led world - got a 3x3 that I was planning on running 6 cob's in for flower. cxa/cxb - haven't decided yet. Was looking on heatsink USA and saw the 12in wide with 1in fins... Could I run two cob on a 12x12 block passive... If not , I'm guessing a 240 mm fan would do the trick? Right?
 
SupraSPL

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
Welcome to RIU. A 12 X 12 heatsink is good for 100-120 dissipation W so you could run a pair of COBs at 50W ea. That shape would restrict your ability to spread the COBs though you might want more space between them depending on your situation.
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
SupraSPL said:
Yes in a 2X3 it would be 915 PPFD averaged.

QER represents how many photons/s/PAR W that particular color temp/tint emits. You can derive that figure from analyzing the SPD curve. I prefer to measure it from 400-700nm because we are looking for PAR data, but you can measure it from 380-780nm as well.

When it comes to scatter I am just estimating. Any light that is hitting the wall will get scattered in all directions and it gets taxed on each bounce. So we cannot assume that 100% of the photons emitted from the bulb will reach the canopy even in a vert setup.
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So I re-ran the numbers with the watts per square foot in my garden, and played with the factors a bit. Bottom line is that four 860W CDM lamps in my rack gives about 415 PPfD, and five gives up to 600 if I push a variable or two.

Clearly, 847 PPfD is a big enough step up that more shouldn't be reasonably necessary. It's nice to compare apples to apples for a change!
 
Tim Fox

Tim Fox

Well-Known Member
Iceveign said:
Welcome aboard Hereseed, I'm in the same boat as you, these diy guys on RIU should be getting paid, their stupid smart, where as I'm just smart enough to know I'm stupid. How are a bunch of stoners so good at math? :)
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I cant tell you how many times I have felt this way, I come across old threads and i see my stupid self before my LED AH HA!! moment,, i lower my head in shame,, lol, now so much of it makes sense,
Some of supra's threads are still like sitting in a college Math course,
Its been a fun ride so far following along with some of these dudes,,
I thank you all
 
green217

green217

Well-Known Member
Yeah I've got an associates degree in electronic engineering and I still learn from these threads. much respect for supra and a few of these other guys building their own lights.
I need to at least build a veg light, running the double ended HPS now, I'd love to change it out to cobs but last time I priced it it was going to be around a thousand dollars to build the light to replace 1000 watt HPS.
 
P

PurpleBuz

Well-Known Member
green217 said:
Yeah I've got an associates degree in electronic engineering and I still learn from these threads. much respect for supra and a few of these other guys building their own lights.
I need to at least build a veg light, running the double ended HPS now, I'd love to change it out to cobs but last time I priced it it was going to be around a thousand dollars to build the light to replace 1000 watt HPS.
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replacing your veg lights can be relatively cheap. drive under nominal, and use minimal mostly passive heatsinks with the smaller cobs and a temp of 5K or higher. BUT you will get more bang replacing your HPS with cobs.
 
bicit

bicit

Well-Known Member
Supra, what method do you use when applying thermal paste?

I've been doing some experimenting with MX-2, some 3590's, and some acrylic sheet. So far the best visual results I've had was from applying two evenly spaced parallel lines using between .2 to .3 grams of thermal paste then spreading it as thin as possible using a razor blade. So far the worst results have come from methods advised by custom pc builders. Using a credit card was harder to get consistent thickness on the cob than using a razor blade. Over .4 grams seemed to resulted in 'seepage' under .2 grams was difficult to get spread thinly before the paste would dry. I estimated I'd need about .24 grams in order to make a .05mm layer of tim over a CXB3590 based on MX-2's density (3.97g/cm^3)

On a side note I noticed that the 30g tube of MX-2 is threaded for blunt needles. I'm definitely going to look into that, a finer point would make it a bit easier to apply.

Anyhow I'm curious as to what methods you've found to be effective.
 
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SupraSPL

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
Good call, time for some experiments. I used the dab and press method which is fast and works very well (great coverage, thin layer and no air bubbles) but noticed that pressing hard on the corners causes a bit of oil to form under each corner. I think it happens when I release pressure on the corners it sucks the oil into the low pressure area causing separation.

Next I tried painting it on evenly with a spatula and lightly pressing. No air bubbles, no oil but not getting as thin of a layer as I normally would and it takes longer. When I press hard enough to create a very thin layer I get the oil on the corners again.

Used about .8gr in both cases and there was a lot of wasted paste coming out of the sides although it is cheap (~30 cents wasted).

Next time I will try to paint a very thin layer and see if I can get a perfect mount without the oil forming. I know the oil will not affect cooling in any measurable way but always curious
 
H

Hereseed

Active Member
Hey guys... Still soaking it in. I'm not trying to re-invent the wheel, just trying to roll with it !
@Supra ... Good thing you mentioned considering my spacing. Racking my brain to try and come up with a configuration that I could run passively in a 3x3 but those alpine fan/heatsink combos are hard to beat... Every time I start to dream up a design ,my mind tends to lean in the direction of overkill. Torn between the idea of going with either 6 cobs and 32 stars, 8 cobs and 24 stars or just doing 9 cobs...!? Speaking of stars... Saw some that were solderless... What's your guys take on those ? Plus if one were to run a string of r&b's - what heatsink profile would you recommend to allow for placing 16 on a 34 inch bar(passive)?
I'm on like page 50 or so of the 3070 thread ...so I'm probably asking questions prematurely, most of what I had planned on asking gets answered in a page or two deeper into thread...
Someone describe their ideal setup for a 3x3 (flower)and I'll build that bad boy, post pics ,and share the glory!
I'm expending alot of energy second and third guessing. I think what I'm saying is that I need a" diy led celebrity" endorsed design ... Thanks in advance for any and all suggestions!!!
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Where do I get Cree CXB3590 COB chips for fifty bones apiece? If I'm planning to order a large quantity, how much of a discount should I expect?

Same question for drivers, especially the Meanwell HLG-185H-C1400? Where do I get one for $65, and if I'm planning to order a bunch of them, what sort of discounts are customary?
 
SupraSPL

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
@ttystikk The 3590s may not be available in top bin in large quantities but if you let kingbrite know what you are looking for they are probably your best bet, sometimes they get 100 packs in. Cree packs them in boxes of 50 pcs so if you order 50 he will send you a box sealed from Cree.

As far as drivers in quantity, I think sager may have the best deal. If you order 10 it works out to about $55 ea shipped + sales tax.
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
SupraSPL said:
@ttystikk The 3590s may not be available in top bin in large quantities but if you let kingbrite know what you are looking for they are probably your best bet, sometimes they get 100 packs in. Cree packs them in boxes of 50 pcs so if you order 50 he will send you a box sealed from Cree.

As far as drivers in quantity, I think sager may have the best deal. If you order 10 it works out to about $55 ea shipped + sales tax.
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Thank you! As usual, you raised a few more questions, lol

Such as; what's the current top bin? If they want to sell me chips that aren't the top bin, how much of a discount should I expect?
 
Iceveign

Iceveign

Active Member
ttystikk said:
Where do I get Cree CXB3590 COB chips for fifty bones apiece? If I'm planning to order a large quantity, how much of a discount should I expect?

Same question for drivers, especially the Meanwell HLG-185H-C1400? Where do I get one for $65, and if I'm planning to order a bunch of them, what sort of discounts are customary?
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I just bought my Cree cxb3590 cd 3500k from KIngbrite 2 weeks ago, but, you do have to go through Alibaba.com. Here is the link that was given by Realstyles http://m.kingbriteled.en.alibaba.com/
You want to deal with Jerry Meng, he set me up good and I paid with pay-pal. DHL shipping was 40.00, yikes, but got here in 7 days undamaged.
 
SupraSPL

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
Hereseed said:
Someone describe their ideal setup for a 3x3 (flower)and I'll build that bad boy, post pics ,and share the glory!
I'm expending alot of energy second and third guessing. I think what I'm saying is that I need a" diy led celebrity" endorsed design ... Thanks in advance for any and all suggestions!!!
Click to expand...
Lately I have been taking apart my CXA3070 + Red/Blue stars panels and replacing them with CXB3590 3500K CD instead. Efficiency increases from 46.3% to 64% (38.2% more light/W). For those building new lamps there is also the benefit of much less labor to assemble. It is also easier to use lenses when using COB so the light really gets where you want it.

Options for a 3X3, using CREE CXB3590 3500K CD 36V class
650-850 PPFD recommended

(9) COBs at 50W ea, average intensity would be above 1200 PPFD, possibly too high although I have not tested that and you could dim it as needed. This makes a lot of sense in terms of spread, 3 COBs on 3 long heatsinks (HLG-120H-C1400 X 3)

(8 ) COBs at 23W ea you would be at 586 PPFD average, possibly a bit lower than necessary (HLG-185H-C700 X 1)

(12) COBs at 23W ea =879 PPFD but may be tricky to arrange them on heatsinks in a way that covers a square shape evenly (HLG-120H-C700 X 2)

(8 ) COBs at 36W ea = 877 PPFD. This may work well with 4 heatsinks, 2 COBs on each (HLG-120H-1050 X 2)

(4) COBs at 88W ea = 811 PPFD. This would be great for a CPU cooler setup. (HLN-80H-36 X 4)

LOTS of other options boggles the mind LOL
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
SupraSPL said:
Lately I have been taking apart my CXA3070 + Red/Blue stars panels and replacing them with CXB3590 3500K CD instead. Efficiency increases from 46.3% to 64% (38.2% more light/W). For those building new lamps there is also the benefit of much less labor to assemble. It is also easier to use lenses when using COB so the light really gets where you want it.

Options for a 3X3, using CREE CXB3590 3500K CD 36V class
650-850 PPFD recommended

(9) COBs at 50W ea, average intensity would be above 1200 PPFD, possibly too high although I have not tested that and you could dim it as needed. This makes a lot of sense in terms of spread, 3 COBs on 3 long heatsinks (HLG-120H-C1400 X 3)

(8 ) COBs at 23W ea you would be at 586 PPFD average, possibly a bit lower than necessary (HLG-185H-C700 X 1)

(12) COBs at 23W ea =879 PPFD but may be tricky to arrange them on heatsinks in a way that covers a square shape evenly (HLG-120H-C700 X 2)

(8 ) COBs at 36W ea = 877 PPFD. This may work well with 4 heatsinks, 2 COBs on each (HLG-120H-1050 X 2)

(4) COBs at 88W ea = 811 PPFD. This would be great for a CPU cooler setup. (HLN-80H-36 X 4)

LOTS of other options boggles the mind LOL
Click to expand...
Need efficiency numbers for these, so I can compare?
 
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