FLUSHING before harvest... BS or not?
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Honey Oil Riot Squad
Well-Known Member
Lmao sell it as a cross between Mexican sativa and TacOG kush
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Resinhound
Well-Known Member
I dunno man...I dont think merely warming water is going.to magically raise the amount of nutrients dissolved in there.Sounds pretty fishy...oxygen..sure.Dissolved solids...heh.
Where did that post even come from?lol
Where did that post even come from?lol
Honey Oil Riot Squad
Well-Known Member
Lol that was pretty random but I know that's true. Warm TAP water has excess dissolved solids bc it picks them up while being heated inside your water heater. I can visibly see the difference with my tap when it's warm it's more cloudy. And tastes metallic. Long story short people DONT BOIL AND COOK IN HOT TAP WATER. It's fucking disgusting. And now you now.
...This had nothing to do with weed lol.
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Ask Limpy
Active Member
Just wanted to chime in on this thread. I've got a couple decades of growing under my belt and I still know very little.
IMO flushing is something I'd never go with out. Now before anyone jumps on me let me bring a little clarity. I only use GH flora series in my garden and nothing else. I don't go with the bottles recommendations tho I tone it down a little, less is more as "they" say. So here's real world, this week's experience...as I've also been going hard on flush research. The last week before water I cut my already lowered nutes solution by 1/3 with water over the last three regular feedings getting down to just water by the fourth feeding. After letting the plant use the "First" regular watering (about three days in 5 gallons of soil ) I brought each plant to my slop sink and put 5 gallons of clean water through each plant being as thsee were my final weeks. After returning my babies to there comfortable room I let them have a week before giving them another 5 gallons each. As a side note at this time I clipped a smaller side nug and set it on its way to drying so I could test it's cleanliness, meanwhile the plants continued under regular lighting for the week using the excess water up over 5 rather then 7 days this time. So now two weeks of just water, I take my scope in and check some trichs. It's a mix of plenty, cloudy and amber, I'm excited to see them and decide that my little sample is ready to test... (only a week I know but only a burn test )..so I chop, roll and light. It burns ok, what I would describe as a medium grey ash, not dark but def not white. So I decide to put 5 more gallons thru each. Also took another sampler as they plants now have two full weeks of just water. The plants now have dried after the third 5 gallon flush. The sample has also dried and been sampled
it burnt better but not to that high quality white ash I'm used to and like. So I took the scope in again and not only have the amber trichs become the prominent ones at around 40 % amber but there are abut 20% of the trichs that have turned purple and the rest are high majority cloudy with very few clear trichs to be seen. I haven't tested the plant yet but I'm certain it's ready. It's gping to be about ten days before I'll try a sample but it's my experience so far that yes flushing (in my case with my specific conditions of temp, water quality, humidity, pH, nutes mix etc etc) is important and that patience is key. All of that (sorry it is a chunk to read) being said, it really is a case by case issue so what worked and works for Tom might not be right or work for Dick or Harry. So that's my basic two cents on the matter, I'll include a cple pics of the ladies and the purple trichs (pic taken with a point and shoot thru a pocket scope so please excuse the poorer quality) for all to view, cheers, hope some of my experience helps. Where I live geographically every single grower I know from closet to commercial all do a two week flush, I've been doing three for ever and always had rave reviews. Pic #1 is pineapple express three weeks from finish. Pic two will be pk (the one with purple trichs) and the last one will be a shot of the trichs.
As a last note I find bong & pipe people don't really notice as much if the flowers are dirty / unflushed because they burn it directly with a lighter so unless it's really noticeable many (in my area) don't notice at all. I always do a test burn of any product I'm going to smoke by rolling a joint and burning it. If it burns clean you can see it by the way it burns (obviously ) and by the color of the ashes to some extent. Black, hard ash that won't stay burning is a sign you need more water. I'm always looking for a clean burning light grey towards white, cheers all.
IMO flushing is something I'd never go with out. Now before anyone jumps on me let me bring a little clarity. I only use GH flora series in my garden and nothing else. I don't go with the bottles recommendations tho I tone it down a little, less is more as "they" say. So here's real world, this week's experience...as I've also been going hard on flush research. The last week before water I cut my already lowered nutes solution by 1/3 with water over the last three regular feedings getting down to just water by the fourth feeding. After letting the plant use the "First" regular watering (about three days in 5 gallons of soil ) I brought each plant to my slop sink and put 5 gallons of clean water through each plant being as thsee were my final weeks. After returning my babies to there comfortable room I let them have a week before giving them another 5 gallons each. As a side note at this time I clipped a smaller side nug and set it on its way to drying so I could test it's cleanliness, meanwhile the plants continued under regular lighting for the week using the excess water up over 5 rather then 7 days this time. So now two weeks of just water, I take my scope in and check some trichs. It's a mix of plenty, cloudy and amber, I'm excited to see them and decide that my little sample is ready to test... (only a week I know but only a burn test )..so I chop, roll and light. It burns ok, what I would describe as a medium grey ash, not dark but def not white. So I decide to put 5 more gallons thru each. Also took another sampler as they plants now have two full weeks of just water. The plants now have dried after the third 5 gallon flush. The sample has also dried and been sampled
it burnt better but not to that high quality white ash I'm used to and like. So I took the scope in again and not only have the amber trichs become the prominent ones at around 40 % amber but there are abut 20% of the trichs that have turned purple and the rest are high majority cloudy with very few clear trichs to be seen. I haven't tested the plant yet but I'm certain it's ready. It's gping to be about ten days before I'll try a sample but it's my experience so far that yes flushing (in my case with my specific conditions of temp, water quality, humidity, pH, nutes mix etc etc) is important and that patience is key. All of that (sorry it is a chunk to read) being said, it really is a case by case issue so what worked and works for Tom might not be right or work for Dick or Harry. So that's my basic two cents on the matter, I'll include a cple pics of the ladies and the purple trichs (pic taken with a point and shoot thru a pocket scope so please excuse the poorer quality) for all to view, cheers, hope some of my experience helps. Where I live geographically every single grower I know from closet to commercial all do a two week flush, I've been doing three for ever and always had rave reviews. Pic #1 is pineapple express three weeks from finish. Pic two will be pk (the one with purple trichs) and the last one will be a shot of the trichs.As a last note I find bong & pipe people don't really notice as much if the flowers are dirty / unflushed because they burn it directly with a lighter so unless it's really noticeable many (in my area) don't notice at all. I always do a test burn of any product I'm going to smoke by rolling a joint and burning it. If it burns clean you can see it by the way it burns (obviously ) and by the color of the ashes to some extent. Black, hard ash that won't stay burning is a sign you need more water. I'm always looking for a clean burning light grey towards white, cheers all.
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DesertGrow89
Well-Known Member
I heard they flushed to atone for their sins and then American growers who don't understand science just started blindly copying them lol
Ask Limpy
Active Member
Can't flush soil ? How do all the pesticides and fertilizers end up in the ground water ?
since1991
Well-Known Member
Huh? Mobile and immobile nutrients in plants is about translocation. Its science and botany. Not a manufacturing process.
zeddd
Well-Known Member
you can flush nutes out of the soil but the plants would suffer O2 deprivation so I wouldn't do it in soil, the original talk was about flushing salt ridden mediums esp coco if u cocked up, no need if u havnt, coco growing is all about keeping the root zone the correct pH and ec, reading the leaves tells me if ive got it right
Honey Oil Riot Squad
Well-Known Member
Thank you for sharing all that! That's a lot of helpful information.Just wanted to chime in on this thread. I've got a couple decades of growing under my belt and I still know very little.
IMO flushing is something I'd never go with out. Now before anyone jumps on me let me bring a little clarity. I only use GH flora series in my garden and nothing else. I don't go with the bottles recommendations tho I tone it down a little, less is more as "they" say. So here's real world, this week's experience...as I've also been going hard on flush research. The last week before water I cut my already lowered nutes solution by 1/3 with water over the last three regular feedings getting down to just water by the fourth feeding. After letting the plant use the "First" regular watering (about three days in 5 gallons of soil ) I brought each plant to my slop sink and put 5 gallons of clean water through each plant being as thsee were my final weeks. After returning my babies to there comfortable room I let them have a week before giving them another 5 gallons each. As a side note at this time I clipped a smaller side nug and set it on its way to drying so I could test it's cleanliness, meanwhile the plants continued under regular lighting for the week using the excess water up over 5 rather then 7 days this time. So now two weeks of just water, I take my scope in and check some trichs. It's a mix of plenty, cloudy and amber, I'm excited to see them and decide that my little sample is ready to test... (only a week I know but only a burn test )..so I chop, roll and light. It burns ok, what I would describe as a medium grey ash, not dark but def not white. So I decide to put 5 more gallons thru each. Also took another sampler as they plants now have two full weeks of just water. The plants now have dried after the third 5 gallon flush. The sample has also dried and been sampled
As a last note I find bong & pipe people don't really notice as much if the flowers are dirty / unflushed because they burn it directly with a lighter so unless it's really noticeable many (in my area) don't notice at all. I always do a test burn of any product I'm going to smoke by rolling a joint and burning it. If it urns clean you can see it by the way it burns (obviously ) and by the color of the ashes to some extent. Black, hard ash that won't stay burning is a sign you need more water. I'm always looking for a clean burning light grey towards white ash., cheers all.
You are using the same nutes as me which is helpful.
The one thing I notice that's a big variable change is that you are in soil. People in hydro or coco like me may have a very different reaction of the plants from flushing for so long bc pure water or coco does not naturally carry any nutrients. Soil does I believe. So for example a plant in coco or hydro always needs a cal mag supplement while in soil sometimes you can get away without it (or with less). Also note calcium is IMMOBILE and what I said in my previous long af post (lol).
Still though, that information explains A LOT about the way the buds kind of "cure" from a flush with plain water.... When you leave them with nothing but plain water for a long time the THC and other cannabinoids are degrading into new cannabinoids. Here, red arrows indicate degradation of different cannabinoids.
When delta 9 THC in particular degrades it generally turns into Cannabinol (CBN), which is still mildly psychoactive. Other present cannabinoids change too as you see on that chart.
THIS MAKES COMPLETE SENSE THAT THEY ARE DEGRADING INDICATED BY THE COLOR CHANGE OF THE TRICHS. You observed this directly on the exact same plant.
That is not at all to say the degradation is a bad thing, some growers prefer it, and honestly it would probably provide an incredibly more diverse population of cannabinoids and Terpenes to RELLY give unique flavor and different medical qualities. It all depends on personal preference. My own preference is that THC is the top priority to yield. So by that theory, I would want to limit flush. Flushing would just speed up the degradation of THC which I have a lot of already and is still forming for a couple more weeks PROVIDED I continue to feed the plants what they need to form it. Sure I want some of the "degradation" but that will be there just by chance, and is proven now by legalized analytical marijuana labs that determine cannibinoid content. The amount you have with so many amber trichs is a lot more than I think I'd prefer.
Also I just use rubber band, a 5 dollar pocket microscope, and my phone to get these beauties
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hyroot
Well-Known Member
I just read the first few posts.
All flushing does is wash the salts out of the soil or medium and roots. It does not remove nutrients. Minerals and nutrients are stored in the leaves. Towards the end the plant will pull food from its leaves regardless of flushing. hence the fade.
All flushing does is wash the salts out of the soil or medium and roots. It does not remove nutrients. Minerals and nutrients are stored in the leaves. Towards the end the plant will pull food from its leaves regardless of flushing. hence the fade.
Honey Oil Riot Squad
Well-Known Member
Thank you lol I feel like my current goal in life is to make everybody question their negative ideals of American stoners by laying out the fact that I got a bachelors of science while stoned the whole time.
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astronautrob
Well-Known Member
You're going to get different answers no matter who you ask, it's a hot button topic. I don't really know why we keep talking about it or starting posts, it really just riles people up on the pro-flushing side and anti-flushing side alike. Why not just do a simple experiment for yourself, flush one of your plants, don't flush the other, and see for yourself?
*edit: didn't read the whole thread if I said something someone else already said, fuck it
*edit: didn't read the whole thread if I said something someone else already said, fuck it
Honey Oil Riot Squad
Well-Known Member
Ok not a "nute line", just a concentrated soln of only immobile nutes while "flushing". Actually found out there are "flush nutrients". Don't know if that's what they are or not
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THE KONASSURE
Well-Known Member
I think in DWC
using just water for the last 2 to 4 weeks, can save a load on plant food but also you can get crazy ph swings
I`d keep a barrel of stable water for putting the plants in for the last few days, means I could clean up what they were in and get the next plant moved over
I`m all for using less food near the end to save money so long as nothing bad happens because of it
but people using just water, I`m not sure if that was started because of all the salts and buffers a lot of 1 and 2 part liquid feeds have in them ?
Most of the stuff that`s not "hard water" or "soft water" or self ph`ing, that stuff seems to be fine
but some foods have boost`s pgr`s and salts and all kinds of buffers in them, not using them for the last 2 to 4 weeks or at all might make weed taste better
but sugar, molasses and honey always makes it taste better in coco and keeps the bugs in the root zone
Don`t think doing sugar water in DWC would last very long think you`d get rot in 2 to 10 days
As for the aspirin, it actually helps plants yellow their leaves faster and can be used as a root stim
I like it for when a plant is close to finish but most of the leaves or all of them are still green
add some aspirin and they suck up the fan leaves and put that sugar in the buds, depends how a plant looks as to weather or not I use it, if it`s all yellowed up already then you can just chop it at night normally no real need to flush, I try not to give any "boosts" for 2 to 4 weeks some stuff 6 weeks before the end, even seaweed extract and such I don`t like to "waste" on the last 4 to 6 weeks, plus we use large sacks so I`m sure it takes a few feeds of sugar water before the coco is out of nutes, and also all the bennies we use must be turning that sugar into some good stuff for the plants
also sugar means the microbes in your rootzone and make extra co2
and probably flushing with silicone would give you more CBA during the last weeks that would give you more thc after chop/cure, but you never see any one say in coco and hydro that silicone flush is key, lol
using just water for the last 2 to 4 weeks, can save a load on plant food but also you can get crazy ph swings
I`d keep a barrel of stable water for putting the plants in for the last few days, means I could clean up what they were in and get the next plant moved over
I`m all for using less food near the end to save money so long as nothing bad happens because of it
but people using just water, I`m not sure if that was started because of all the salts and buffers a lot of 1 and 2 part liquid feeds have in them ?
Most of the stuff that`s not "hard water" or "soft water" or self ph`ing, that stuff seems to be fine
but some foods have boost`s pgr`s and salts and all kinds of buffers in them, not using them for the last 2 to 4 weeks or at all might make weed taste better
but sugar, molasses and honey always makes it taste better in coco and keeps the bugs in the root zone
Don`t think doing sugar water in DWC would last very long think you`d get rot in 2 to 10 days
As for the aspirin, it actually helps plants yellow their leaves faster and can be used as a root stim
I like it for when a plant is close to finish but most of the leaves or all of them are still green
add some aspirin and they suck up the fan leaves and put that sugar in the buds, depends how a plant looks as to weather or not I use it, if it`s all yellowed up already then you can just chop it at night normally no real need to flush, I try not to give any "boosts" for 2 to 4 weeks some stuff 6 weeks before the end, even seaweed extract and such I don`t like to "waste" on the last 4 to 6 weeks, plus we use large sacks so I`m sure it takes a few feeds of sugar water before the coco is out of nutes, and also all the bennies we use must be turning that sugar into some good stuff for the plants
also sugar means the microbes in your rootzone and make extra co2
and probably flushing with silicone would give you more CBA during the last weeks that would give you more thc after chop/cure, but you never see any one say in coco and hydro that silicone flush is key, lol
abalonehx
Well-Known Member
Well ...what about tobacco?
Do cigar aficionados look for a white ash? Is ash color a sign of quality?
I searched this and according to the first few links that popped up...No.
http://www.stogiefresh.info/edu-tobacco/articles/The-Color-of-Ash.html
"The color of a cigar's ash is dependent on one major factor: the nutrients in the soil. Regardless of where the tobacco is grown, or what type of tobacco it is, the major contributor to the color of the ash in a finished cigar will be the balance of nutrients in the soil where the tobacco was grown."
https://paynemason.com/is-white-ash-a-sign-a-of-quality/
"This myth was promoted by many of the new cigar smokers in the cigar boom of the nineteen nineties. The fact is the color of the ash has no relevance to the quality of the cigar. The color of the ash is a direct result of the composition of the soil from which the tobaccos where grown. White ash simply means that the soil from where the tobacco was grown was high in phosphorus and calcium. Dominican, Honduran and Cuban soils are generally low in phosphorous and calcium and higher in magnesium. Magnesium tends to offer a sweeter smoke, with a darker and flakier ash. In most cases, gray ash will indicate healthier tobacco. Ash that is too white or too black is generally less desirable."
Do cigar aficionados look for a white ash? Is ash color a sign of quality?
I searched this and according to the first few links that popped up...No.
http://www.stogiefresh.info/edu-tobacco/articles/The-Color-of-Ash.html
"The color of a cigar's ash is dependent on one major factor: the nutrients in the soil. Regardless of where the tobacco is grown, or what type of tobacco it is, the major contributor to the color of the ash in a finished cigar will be the balance of nutrients in the soil where the tobacco was grown."
https://paynemason.com/is-white-ash-a-sign-a-of-quality/
"This myth was promoted by many of the new cigar smokers in the cigar boom of the nineteen nineties. The fact is the color of the ash has no relevance to the quality of the cigar. The color of the ash is a direct result of the composition of the soil from which the tobaccos where grown. White ash simply means that the soil from where the tobacco was grown was high in phosphorus and calcium. Dominican, Honduran and Cuban soils are generally low in phosphorous and calcium and higher in magnesium. Magnesium tends to offer a sweeter smoke, with a darker and flakier ash. In most cases, gray ash will indicate healthier tobacco. Ash that is too white or too black is generally less desirable."
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