Mau5Capades: builds & grow journal

Growmau5

Well-Known Member
Sooooo.....if my math is right (learned from you and GG,but if I'm wrong I won't blame the teacher) this driver would allow me to run a 4 X 10 space with 3 modules of 8 3590s at just over 15 PAR watts/sqft (64% efficiency?) - pretty close to what you were delivering to the canopy in your awesome last grow? That would put each 4-cob bar about 18" apart while allowing the end units to be 9" from the canopy edge.....is that acceptable? Designing a room to keep power usage to the lowest practical level but 700 ma gets expensive quickly as it scales up. BTW, this driver might make a good alternative choice for the Cutter 8 cob kit when they become more available. (Just sayin'. Not because it would be perfect for me or anything.....hehehe). Thanks for any insight you can provide.
61%. 3 "modules" (24 cobs) isnt gunna be enuff. Ill be running the 32 cxb3590s i have at 1050 (instead of 700) moved over to a 4x10. and i hope that will be enough. So i guess you will see how it will work out, and measurements from that new Apogee gold par sensor, if it actually ships out today.
 

Growmau5

Well-Known Member
progress has been made. what you are looking at is a 4 axis light mover for 32 (soon to be 40) cxb3590 @1050ma. Z axis is controlled by a harbor freight wench ($79) plus some pulleys.
the x axis will be controlled by a "Scotch and Yoke" mechanism. and the Y axis is still in the brain storm stage. the 4th axis is a tilt axis handled by some $10 lazy susans from lowes. Im thinking tiny linear actuator for this unnecessary axis. but 4 is better than 3 right.

full new room.jpg

here is the control board, still in progress. It is an 8x8x4 water resistant elec box from lowes with a Siemens Contactor model# 42BF15AF . the same one used in those light control boxes.

control board in progress.jpg

should have the plants in, in the next 24-36 hours. and some PAR measurements, etc.
 
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sixstring2112

Well-Known Member
progress has been made. what you are looking at is a 4 axis light mover for 32 (soon to be 40) cxb3590 @1050ma. Z axis is controlled by a harbor freight wench ($79) plus some pulleys.
the x axis will be controlled by a "Scotch and Yoke" mechanism. and the Y axis is still in the brain storm stage. the 4th axis is a tilt axis handled by some $10 lazy susans from lowes. Im thinking tiny linear actuator for this unnecessary axis. but 4 is better than 3 right.

View attachment 3668057

here is the control board, still in progress. It is an 8x8x4 water resistant elec box from lowes with a Siemens Contactor model# 42BF15AF . the same one used in those light control boxes.

View attachment 3668058

should have the plants in, in the next 24-36 hours. and some PAR measurements, etc.
im not gunna pretent to understand most of this.but what are you using the big ass meanwell hep 600 for ?
 

Growmau5

Well-Known Member
im not gunna pretent to understand most of this.but what are you using the big ass meanwell hep 600 for ?
I dont know yet, lol. it can handle 600w of DC power at 48v. I was going to adjust it down to 36v and run some single cobs on MW LDD drivers maybe, or break down my BML spydr and run the bars separately at a lower current and pwm control them. I bought it just to give me some more control and flexibility. And also to test it and maybe make some videos about dc to dc bucking drivers.
 

thetr33man

Well-Known Member
Like the 320's, you running 8 3590s on each? I just ordered one in 1750 flavor, seems like both the 1400 and the 1050s leave a little V on the table if you figure 36v each cob, 1750 should be able to run 5 almost exactly... Unfortunately I only have 4 right now anyway, haha
 

Growmau5

Well-Known Member
Like the 320's, you running 8 3590s on each? I just ordered one in 1750 flavor, seems like both the 1400 and the 1050s leave a little V on the table if you figure 36v each cob, 1750 should be able to run 5 almost exactly... Unfortunately I only have 4 right now anyway, haha
yessir 8 per driver. theres some voltage on the table which could be consumed by a mono that can handle 1050. its 93% utilization, im ok with that.
 

Greengenes707

Well-Known Member
after some subtle but indirect guilt shaming , from some people i dont want to mention, cough cough, @Greengenes707 & @KermitDaScrog I purchased some instrumentation. a good PAR meter and a dual probe thermocouple. out of the dark ages and theoretical guessing games and into the light!

Very nice. Slick with the sensor on a mover.
Your room is like a fresh pair kicks...you need to get them dirty. Should do very good at 1050ma and that density. And now you can check relative intensity too. Pretty perfect. Look at you and all your new toys.
Now get a keeper pheno of something and mono crop a canopy like an 80's flat top.

It's easy to grind or dremel out clean access to the Tc point on ideal holders. I showed my modification to Ideal, and they took notice. Maybe they will make the little change.
You got to get on that T-type thermocouple too... makes your bud 5X more potent ;).
Keep it up man.
 

The Green Griffin

Well-Known Member
after some subtle but indirect guilt shaming , from some people i dont want to mention, cough cough, @Greengenes707 & @KermitDaScrog I purchased some instrumentation. a good PAR meter and a dual probe thermocouple. out of the dark ages and theoretical guessing games and into the light!

Absolutely beautiful. Love how tight and tidy everything is, the extra time you take on the organization and layout truly takes your designs to the next level. Noticed the light bars are spaced in pairs rather than evenly spaced over the canopy, is that convenience or is there a purpose for that? The quantitative numbers are soooooo helpful, cannot thank you enough for your willingness to share. How do you like your CAP controller? Seems to be a lot of CAP haters out there, as well as some diehard advocates - and not knowing which reviews are corporate shills or competitive trolls makes it tough to evaluate.
Btw, do you ever sleep, lol?
 

thetr33man

Well-Known Member
Hey GM, Im guessing you have thought of this, but on the side where you dont have reflective plastic, you can get a couple closet rod holders and a wooden or PVC pipe and put it across from wall to wall and hang shower curtain to reflect light back in. If you put a white curtain on the inside and a black on one the outside, it will also reduce light pollution into the area behind it, if thats desirable for you.
 

Growmau5

Well-Known Member
@The Green Griffin thanks for the positive vibes man.
-the pairs were originally configured that way from my original setup (700ma over a 4x8 . I kept the pairs because it should be acceptable spacing once I install 2 more bars, and I figure the light mover will smooth out my uneven umol readings across the X axis. but I am going for perfect even photon blanket here, so adjustments may need to be made.
-my man at my local hydroshop hooked me up with that C.A.P. controller for $100 used. I figured its worth that alone for the fuzzy logic CO2 controller. Would I buy one new for 6-700bucks, hell to tha no. its old tech and there are a lot of annoying things about it. but it is functional and the internal components like the relays and connections are all analog and very solid.
-sleep is for the weak.

@Michael Huntherz thanks brother, but please explain your new avatar to me. lol

@thetr33man Im glad you mention that (and picked up on the 100-150 umol drop). Not having the grow area enclosed in reflective material is clearly a dramatic drop off. GG and others have preached this for years. But seeing it here reinforces it further. Something will need to be done about this, or ounces of product will disappear into thin air.

@Greengenes707 I like the new kicks analogy. I was thinking new car that needs to get scratched or keyed, lol. So now you are telling me my K-type sensors arent good enough! when does the spending stop! I have this awesome setup and I'm eating frozen pizzas and PBJs for dinner already! lol
I have some questions for you.

-At what density to you start thinking about carbon (CO2) as a limiting factor for photosynthesis?
-is a T-type thermocouple more precise? I thought it just had a wider range.
-got any photos or links to your IDEAL mod, i want to make sure I am measuring from the right spot. (for the video).


For anyone else who reads this and has seen my videos. You guys are all very positive and constructive with me, and I appreciate it. I realize that my genetics are far from the dankest available. Early on, before youtube, I was so focused on yield and GPW. Now, I realize as most growers and consumers of herb, that quantity really doesnt mean shit when the genetics are average.
I like my Tangie because of the terp profile and the taste, even though bag appeal is not great, and the plant is not the most photogenic, lol. (but ill keep growing it, b/c i like it)
-alien blues has been retired due to dismal yields and no colas, bad pheno i guess.
-I feel like my only dank strain is the Exotic Genetics: cherry cream pie. featured in my "night nugs video" (although I have seeds for their Gorilla grip and Pink v2).

any comments on the quality of my genetics are welcome, my feelings won't be hurt. to refresh your memory , check this out. its end of wk6 or 7, i forget. but at 1:16 is the CCP. its pretty much what I am moving towards growing, until I get better.... #oceangrown

 

PurpleBuz

Well-Known Member
[QUOTE="Growmau5, post: 12548531, member: 898638]when does the spending stop! I have this awesome setup and I'm eating frozen pizzas and PBJs for dinner already! lol
[/QUOTE]

yeah it never stops... I'm inline for a new par meter one of the new apogees.
Has anybody had a chance to give them a good test to see if the paper specs match reality ?

for me its top ramen and Costco pizza, allergic to peanuts so no pbjs

love seeing your work @Growmau5 keep showing us!
 
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