250*Watt CFLs OG Kush (1st Timer Need Info)
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stonerKoala
Member
I dont think because after last flush it didnt appear any nute burn on leaves but defies.
I think i figured it out. What i did was wrong ''watering without runoff''. today I watered it with cal-mag(1/4) @5.6pH, %10 runoff pH is 6.5pH. I am guessing I locked out some Nutes. Not sure yet but After today I'll see if is corrected. What you think It might be that?
mean.green
Well-Known Member
ya, I was going to say that I wouldn't do that because your risking root rot. I think you have been watering too often with not enough water. You would be better if you watered every 2-4 days, until you got 20% runnoff. Let the coco dry for a few days before you water again.
I have 5 gallon and 3 gallon pots. 3 gallon pots I water with a full gallon of water every 2-3 days; and the 5 gallon requires 1.25 gallons of water every 2-4 days.
drewby
Well-Known Member
Hi everyone. This is my very first grow(but not from the seed).I took it from a friend. First, i want to talk about my first grow attempt: I bought 4 Blue Mystic Auto and 4 AK-48 Auto seeds. I bought FloraGro, pH stuff, and other stuff. I was realy excited. But couldn't make it... I had having struggle with growing autos in coco for 2 months. They all stunted because i used a branded coco-mix, It was moist in package and I just filled cups with it. Didn't know I have to flush it before use, so all my seedlings has died because of salt toxicity. (Found out that very late) I was about to going mad in this time. ''Why they're so slow?'' ''Will they go fast after a while?'' ''Maybe I should give some nutes?'' etc.. Than all my seeds are dead and I left hopeless..
One day I went to my friend's home, and saw this plant on window side. He doesn't know about growing. He told me his friend gave him the seed and it is OG Kush and it is 1-1.5 months old. But it was very small. (First Pic when i got it)) He told me I can take it if i want to take care of it. So I did. And quickly went to home using back alley. I came home with a new HOPE. thx for reading
So
I Transplanted it to 50-50 CoCo-Perlite mix (this time Flushed before)
It started pre-flower 10 days ago. I dont know how old is she exactly. And dont remember the day I got it.
My Questions.
1- I want to know. How much nutes i should give her for this stage. I have GHE FloraTrio, Cal-Mag.
2- I want to grow him more wide it would be? or it cant be because veg stage is over? (Its not an auto so i guess i can make it bigger and bigger as long as continue 24-0 light, right? and would it worth?
3- how many grams a plant this big can produce min-max, if i go 12-12. (I need to move place 2 months later, Max 15 day later must have change to 12-12 assume it will flower in 45 days.)
And please give me any other info i'd like to know. Thank you.
Save your self some trouble and go soil,,coco is a little more advanced,,,soil is perfect for your first few grows get dialed in and familiar with your plants and how they grow,,,& later if you choose try coco or hydro ,,I like soil is how they grow natural so is a bit easier in my eyes,,wish all the best luck
stonerKoala
Member
you are probably right. Thanks.
I did that because it took more than 4 days to drink when i first transplanted it to 3gal pot. But now roots established( can see some of them on bottom. From now ill water it with %20 runoff everytime.
Its getting realy better since last watering. I am thinking switch tomorrow. Should I wait till it drink all before switch? and water at start of first dark 12.
Or switch tomorrow?
stonerKoala
Member
Thanks for the advice!
I definitely going to go soil when I start my 1st grow. (this one count as pre or beta
) Also I am probably go with hps. Its too hard, maintaining many small cfls around plant.
How many plants I can grow with a 300W HPS?
Asking for curiousity. How much is the variation of growing speed beetwen soil and coco?
mean.green
Well-Known Member
Which plant is still alive? Is it the autoflower one or the regular photoperiod one?
stonerKoala
Member
Its the photoperiod, one in the pictures. (Also one of my auto is living and flowering now. but very slow. 5 inch total.)
mean.green
Well-Known Member
where are you growing, what size space? It needs to be somewhere with NO light leaks!
stonerKoala
Member
Yea I heard that cause hermies is it right?.
I have a room 12x13 feet. Two windows, One is covered with 2 curtains + 1Sheet. I am thinking to cover the other window with cardboard. I made half of it with green but. It attract notice, too much. Ill make it with gray.
Edit . Picture
Blue dots are cfls red squares are reflectors
Last edited:
mean.green
Well-Known Member
I thought you just had the one plant, now that I know you have more: you need to move the plant into a completely dark area for 12 hours each night for flowering. You can use the same room during the daylight time, but the flowering plant will need complete darkness for 12 hours for a photoperiod plant. Not sure how your going to accomplish veg and flowering in the same room, unless you move the flowering plant out for night time
drewby
Well-Known Member
Bit of advice ,,I made a small mobile tent I use for vegging,,I used a clothes rack or wardrobe on wheels,,the top bar raises up and down,,I use 4 foot shop lights 3 of them,,,,,,, I used 2 ,,2x2's one on either end and screwed the lights to the boards,,,,,it hangs from the top bar where cloths would have I start my plants in solo cups,,and grow them in the tent till they hit 24 inches,,then they go into my secret room,,,,my tent walls are emergency blankets you can get them at walmart in camping section,,,,4x8 emergency blanket 3 dollars very cheap,,,,the shop lights are 11 dollars each,,,,Buy T8 day light bulbs use full spectrum daylight bulbs,,,,they produce almost no heat plants love them and the tent will conceal the light,,here are a few pics I can fit 50 babies in here maybe more and it moves very easy ,,the emergency blankets are chromed so they are water proof and very reflective,,can do all this for under 100 bucks easy,,my lights run 24/7 cost me bout 4 dollars a months,,,,,,a 150 hps will run you 12-18 a month and produce heat,,,,they are a nice add for flowering but them 4 foot shop lights will do it all,,go to you tube and type flowering under a T8 you will see you do not need a big light just the right lighting ,,,Full spectrum flouresants are used in every professional industry movies ,,photographers ,,store,,it is as close to natural sunlight in a bulb you can get,,cheap and can be with in inches of the tops of a plant with no burn
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drewby
Well-Known Member
do not over do it with nutrient ,,,,look at the best feeds on the market there not that hot
Vegg= 7-5-5
Flower= 3-10-10
The NPK ratio is basically a measure of the concentration of 3 key nutrients—nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium—that can be found in fertilizers. There really is no ideal fertilizer and every marijuana grower has his own theory, but, as a general rule of thumb, a 7-5-5 ratio works for vegetative growth.
When marijuana plants go into flowering stage, the nitrogen concentration can stay at a similar level, but, as flowering progresses, it should be reduced. Higher phosphorous promotes flower formation, but it is highly acidic. This is balanced out by a corresponding increase in potassium. For adequate flowering, you’ll want a formula of 3-10-10. Nutrients need to be diluted to 1,200 to 1,800 parts per million (ppm). A garden’s fertilizer requirements are individuated for a variety of reasons.
First, water quality—including its mineral content—varies, which alters the fertilizer needs. Second, different marijuana strains might use nutrients at different rates. Third, the plants’ nutritional needs shift with environmental changes in the garden. Light and temperature conditions can have huge effects on plant needs. Fourth, marijuana’s nutritional needs change based on its stage of life. Early and late vegetative stages and early, mid, and late flowering all have unique nutritional requirements.4
Vegg= 7-5-5
Flower= 3-10-10
The NPK ratio is basically a measure of the concentration of 3 key nutrients—nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium—that can be found in fertilizers. There really is no ideal fertilizer and every marijuana grower has his own theory, but, as a general rule of thumb, a 7-5-5 ratio works for vegetative growth.
When marijuana plants go into flowering stage, the nitrogen concentration can stay at a similar level, but, as flowering progresses, it should be reduced. Higher phosphorous promotes flower formation, but it is highly acidic. This is balanced out by a corresponding increase in potassium. For adequate flowering, you’ll want a formula of 3-10-10. Nutrients need to be diluted to 1,200 to 1,800 parts per million (ppm). A garden’s fertilizer requirements are individuated for a variety of reasons.
First, water quality—including its mineral content—varies, which alters the fertilizer needs. Second, different marijuana strains might use nutrients at different rates. Third, the plants’ nutritional needs shift with environmental changes in the garden. Light and temperature conditions can have huge effects on plant needs. Fourth, marijuana’s nutritional needs change based on its stage of life. Early and late vegetative stages and early, mid, and late flowering all have unique nutritional requirements.4
drewby
Well-Known Member
Timing is everything, and knowing when to start flowering marijuana plants can make or break an indoor harvest. This may seem remedial for many experienced growers, then again, I’ve seen plenty of “pro growers” with burnt plants growing into their lights.
First, let me say that there is no easy answer regarding when to start flowering indoor plants. There are a lot of variables including the strain, your grow room setup and your growing style. That being said, there is a lot I can share on the topic that will better equip you to evaluate your situation and help you decide when to begin flowering.
I should point out that the question of when to flower is usually measured by two metrics time and/or height. Let me explain.
Weeks of Veg = Worthless
Cannabis plants are often measured by their time in vegetative growth. For indoor growing this usually refers to the number of days or weeks that a plant has spent under 18 or 24 hours of light. You will often hear growers refer to plants as being in their 1st, 2nd or 3rd week of veg. This of course is a bit too vague to be of actual use, at least without further information.
Clones
A plant grown from a clone (cutting) is generally regarded as beginning its 1st week of vegetative growth when it has established roots and been transplanted into the growing medium. Most often this takes place when the clone is between 2 and 6 inches tall. While this seems pretty cut and dry, clones of the same strain can develop at drastically different speeds depending on root development. Differences in growth can become even more pronounced depending on the light, nutrients, co2, temperature and a myriad of other factors. After only a few weeks, two previously identical looking clones may look nothing alike.
First, let me say that there is no easy answer regarding when to start flowering indoor plants. There are a lot of variables including the strain, your grow room setup and your growing style. That being said, there is a lot I can share on the topic that will better equip you to evaluate your situation and help you decide when to begin flowering.
I should point out that the question of when to flower is usually measured by two metrics time and/or height. Let me explain.
Weeks of Veg = Worthless
Cannabis plants are often measured by their time in vegetative growth. For indoor growing this usually refers to the number of days or weeks that a plant has spent under 18 or 24 hours of light. You will often hear growers refer to plants as being in their 1st, 2nd or 3rd week of veg. This of course is a bit too vague to be of actual use, at least without further information.
Clones
A plant grown from a clone (cutting) is generally regarded as beginning its 1st week of vegetative growth when it has established roots and been transplanted into the growing medium. Most often this takes place when the clone is between 2 and 6 inches tall. While this seems pretty cut and dry, clones of the same strain can develop at drastically different speeds depending on root development. Differences in growth can become even more pronounced depending on the light, nutrients, co2, temperature and a myriad of other factors. After only a few weeks, two previously identical looking clones may look nothing alike.
drewby
Well-Known Member
Seeds
Plants grown from seeds make the measure of age in vegetative weeks a lot more confusing. Some growers refer to a plants 1st week of veg as when it emerges from the soil, some say it is when it produces its first set of true leaves. Still other growers will refer to week 1 as beginning when the seedling is transplanted, which in itself tells us very little. As if this did not confuse the matter, plants grown from seed often grow vertically much slower than clones, at least at first. Later plants from seed often outpace clones once their root systems have become established.
It should be obvious why telling someone to flower plants after some arbitrary number of week of vegetative growth is worthless. Yet, I constantly hear experienced growers coaching others to change the light cycle and begin flowering after 2 or 3 weeks of veg. A three week old seed start may be as little as 4 inches tall, while a clone with 3 weeks of veg could stand over two feet tall.
Plant Height
The second common way to know when a cannabis plant is ready to begin the flowering cycle is the actual height of the plant. This measure has significantly more relevance because the height of a plant is objective and universally understood. Combined with other known quantities like the strain and the size of the grow room, height is a good indicator of when it’s time to flower. A plants height can be measured by stretching a measuring tape from the top of the growing medium to the highest point on the plant. It’s likely that there will be some variation from plant to plant, more on this later. While plant height is useful information, the key is knowing how much room you actually have to work with.
Plants grown from seeds make the measure of age in vegetative weeks a lot more confusing. Some growers refer to a plants 1st week of veg as when it emerges from the soil, some say it is when it produces its first set of true leaves. Still other growers will refer to week 1 as beginning when the seedling is transplanted, which in itself tells us very little. As if this did not confuse the matter, plants grown from seed often grow vertically much slower than clones, at least at first. Later plants from seed often outpace clones once their root systems have become established.It should be obvious why telling someone to flower plants after some arbitrary number of week of vegetative growth is worthless. Yet, I constantly hear experienced growers coaching others to change the light cycle and begin flowering after 2 or 3 weeks of veg. A three week old seed start may be as little as 4 inches tall, while a clone with 3 weeks of veg could stand over two feet tall.
Plant Height
The second common way to know when a cannabis plant is ready to begin the flowering cycle is the actual height of the plant. This measure has significantly more relevance because the height of a plant is objective and universally understood. Combined with other known quantities like the strain and the size of the grow room, height is a good indicator of when it’s time to flower. A plants height can be measured by stretching a measuring tape from the top of the growing medium to the highest point on the plant. It’s likely that there will be some variation from plant to plant, more on this later. While plant height is useful information, the key is knowing how much room you actually have to work with.
drewby
Well-Known Member
Grow Rooms Size Restricts Maximum Plant Height
The size and style of your grow room will ultimately determine the tallest possible plant height. From this you can deduce the tallest height to begin flowering. Most rooms in a residential home have 8 foot ceilings but many growers use attics, basements, outbuildings, grow tents and I’ve even seen grow rooms built into filing cabinets. What’s important is the distance from the top of the growing medium to the bottom of the lights reflective hood. Many grow rooms are set up so the height of the grow light is adjustable. In this case measure from the lights highest possible setting.
Once you know the distance from the growing medium to the light you need to take into consideration your lighting setup. High Pressure Sodium (HPS) and Metal Halide (MH) grow lights get very hot and can damage the vegetation and even start fires if the plant grows to close to the bulb. It’s important to keep the plants some distance from the light so they don’t burn, but not so far from the light that the lumens are severely diminished. For further explanation on this, read Grow Light Intensity Principles. Light movers and ventilated ducting on your lights can reduce the heat and allow the plants to grow closer to the lights. As a general rule, plants should not be allowed to grow closer than about 12 inches from the bottom of the HID lights reflective hood. For those using fluorescent lighting which produces much less heat, the tops of the plants can grow as close as 4 inches from the bulbs. For more ideas on managing the heat from grow lights read Heat Management in Grow Rooms.
Assuming that you are using one or more 600 or 1000 watt HPS or MH lights, take the distance from the growing medium to the bottom of the reflective hood and subtract 1 foot. This will give you the absolute maximum height of your tallest plant at the end of flowering. This does not necessarily mean you want your plants to reach this maximum, but it does give you a concrete parameter to work with
The size and style of your grow room will ultimately determine the tallest possible plant height. From this you can deduce the tallest height to begin flowering. Most rooms in a residential home have 8 foot ceilings but many growers use attics, basements, outbuildings, grow tents and I’ve even seen grow rooms built into filing cabinets. What’s important is the distance from the top of the growing medium to the bottom of the lights reflective hood. Many grow rooms are set up so the height of the grow light is adjustable. In this case measure from the lights highest possible setting.
Once you know the distance from the growing medium to the light you need to take into consideration your lighting setup. High Pressure Sodium (HPS) and Metal Halide (MH) grow lights get very hot and can damage the vegetation and even start fires if the plant grows to close to the bulb. It’s important to keep the plants some distance from the light so they don’t burn, but not so far from the light that the lumens are severely diminished. For further explanation on this, read Grow Light Intensity Principles. Light movers and ventilated ducting on your lights can reduce the heat and allow the plants to grow closer to the lights. As a general rule, plants should not be allowed to grow closer than about 12 inches from the bottom of the HID lights reflective hood. For those using fluorescent lighting which produces much less heat, the tops of the plants can grow as close as 4 inches from the bulbs. For more ideas on managing the heat from grow lights read Heat Management in Grow Rooms.
Assuming that you are using one or more 600 or 1000 watt HPS or MH lights, take the distance from the growing medium to the bottom of the reflective hood and subtract 1 foot. This will give you the absolute maximum height of your tallest plant at the end of flowering. This does not necessarily mean you want your plants to reach this maximum, but it does give you a concrete parameter to work with
drewby
Well-Known Member
Strains
The strains your are growing plays a huge part in how tall to grow your plants before switching to the 12/12 flowering light cycle. Find out as much about the genetics and typical growth characteristics of your strains as possible. Indica and sativa dominant strains often display very different growth patterns and behave differently after the light cycle is switched to flowering.
Indica Strains
Most pure indica strains slow their vertical growth very quickly once switched to a 12/12 light cycle. It’s not uncommon for an indica strain to add only 25% to 50% to its total height after switching to a 12 hour light cycle. Most of this additional growth will take place in the first week or two of flowering. If an indica plant is switched to flowering when it is 12 inches tall it can be expected to finish flowering at about 18 inches, give or take. That math is pretty consistent, so a 2 foot tall indica will likely finish flowering around 3 feet tall.
Here is the equation for indica strains. The vegged plant height (V) multiplied by 1.5 equals the plant height at harvest (H) or 1.5V = H
Sativa Strains
Pure sativa strains are much more difficult to grow indoors and are becoming increasingly rare in general. I don’t recommend them for novice indoor growers for several reasons. What is important for this topic is that their growth after being switched to a 12/12 light cycle is unpredictable. Pure sativas often continue to produce significant vertical vegetative growth many weeks into the flowering cycle. Sativas often double in size while flowering, and in some cases, will finish at three times the height they were at when the light cycle was switched. A 12 inch plant switched to the 12/12 light cycle could end up as tall as 36 inches, sometimes even taller. This additional vertical growth can quickly become a problem in a normal grow room. I’ve seen growers flower sativas at 2 feet tall only to end up with 6 foot plants at harvest. Most grow rooms just can’t accommodate plants this tall, not to mention some other real problems with tall marijuana plants.
Here is the equation for sativa strains. The vegged plant height (V) multiplied by 2.5 equals the plant height at harvest (H) or 2.5V = H.
Hybrid Strains
Hybrid cannabis strains are crossbreeds of various sativa and indica plants that have been bred selectively to promote specific characteristics. Some hybrids strains grow similar to sativas, other grow more like indicas. Most of the strains sold by seed and clone vendors are some form of hybrid. Find out as much about the strain as possible so you can guess how much vertical growth to expect after the flowering cycle beings. As a general rule, leave enough room for the plants to double in size. Once you are familiar with the strain you can let them grow a bit taller if there is room. Don’t forget, at a certain point, taller is not better.
Here is the equation for hybrid strains. The vegged plant height (V) multiplied by 2 equals the plant height at harvest (H) or 2V = H.
These equations are meant as a general aid and are by no means exact. Actual growth patterns may vary considerably.
The strains your are growing plays a huge part in how tall to grow your plants before switching to the 12/12 flowering light cycle. Find out as much about the genetics and typical growth characteristics of your strains as possible. Indica and sativa dominant strains often display very different growth patterns and behave differently after the light cycle is switched to flowering.
Indica Strains
Most pure indica strains slow their vertical growth very quickly once switched to a 12/12 light cycle. It’s not uncommon for an indica strain to add only 25% to 50% to its total height after switching to a 12 hour light cycle. Most of this additional growth will take place in the first week or two of flowering. If an indica plant is switched to flowering when it is 12 inches tall it can be expected to finish flowering at about 18 inches, give or take. That math is pretty consistent, so a 2 foot tall indica will likely finish flowering around 3 feet tall.
Here is the equation for indica strains. The vegged plant height (V) multiplied by 1.5 equals the plant height at harvest (H) or 1.5V = H
Sativa Strains
Pure sativa strains are much more difficult to grow indoors and are becoming increasingly rare in general. I don’t recommend them for novice indoor growers for several reasons. What is important for this topic is that their growth after being switched to a 12/12 light cycle is unpredictable. Pure sativas often continue to produce significant vertical vegetative growth many weeks into the flowering cycle. Sativas often double in size while flowering, and in some cases, will finish at three times the height they were at when the light cycle was switched. A 12 inch plant switched to the 12/12 light cycle could end up as tall as 36 inches, sometimes even taller. This additional vertical growth can quickly become a problem in a normal grow room. I’ve seen growers flower sativas at 2 feet tall only to end up with 6 foot plants at harvest. Most grow rooms just can’t accommodate plants this tall, not to mention some other real problems with tall marijuana plants.
Here is the equation for sativa strains. The vegged plant height (V) multiplied by 2.5 equals the plant height at harvest (H) or 2.5V = H.
Hybrid Strains
Hybrid cannabis strains are crossbreeds of various sativa and indica plants that have been bred selectively to promote specific characteristics. Some hybrids strains grow similar to sativas, other grow more like indicas. Most of the strains sold by seed and clone vendors are some form of hybrid. Find out as much about the strain as possible so you can guess how much vertical growth to expect after the flowering cycle beings. As a general rule, leave enough room for the plants to double in size. Once you are familiar with the strain you can let them grow a bit taller if there is room. Don’t forget, at a certain point, taller is not better.
Here is the equation for hybrid strains. The vegged plant height (V) multiplied by 2 equals the plant height at harvest (H) or 2V = H.
These equations are meant as a general aid and are by no means exact. Actual growth patterns may vary considerably.
drewby
Well-Known Member
Growing Style
Your growing style is a big factor in determining when to begin flowering. You may have heard terms like Sea of Green (SOG), Screen of Green (SCROG), Lollipopping, Super Cropping etc. I will go over these very briefly to point out how growing styles affect when to begin flowering.
Sea of Green (SOG)
Sea of Green is an indoor growing method where the plants are flowered very small and usually produce only one large bud. The plants are packed close together and occupy about half a square foot at full maturity. The plant count higher than other methods so clones are usually preferred. Indica dominant strains work best and should be flowered when they reach between 6-12 inches tall.
Screen of Green (SCROG)
The Screen of Green method utilizes a screen of wire or string mesh stretched horizontally above the plants to create an even plant canopy and help support the flowering tops. When the tops are bent down under the mesh the lateral branches grow up through the net and become tops. This method requires less plants per square foot than the SOG method but still requires clones because males can’t be easily removed. Plants must stay in vegetative growth for several week longer than with the SOG method and usually are allowed to continue vegging for one week after the tops are bent down with the netting. In most cases, the screen is placed between 1 and 2 feet above the growing medium.
Lollipopping
With the Lollipoping method the plants are usually switched to flowering around 1.5 feet for sativas and as much as 3 feet for indicas. The lower ⅓ to ½ of the plants branches are removed before the light cycle switch to direct the plants energy to the tops closest to the light source. This produces plants that resemble lollipops with long bare lower stems and multiple bushy tops.
Super Cropping
The Super Cropping method requires one of the longest veg periods but is designed to produce heavy yields with a minimal number of plants. While the plant is in in the 18/6 veg cycle the main stems are bent down to retard their vertical growth and promote the growth of lower branches. This decreases the overall height and results in bushy wide plants with tons of tops. If done properly vertical height does not become a problem and vegging can continue until the plants fill your horizontal space.
Your growing style is a big factor in determining when to begin flowering. You may have heard terms like Sea of Green (SOG), Screen of Green (SCROG), Lollipopping, Super Cropping etc. I will go over these very briefly to point out how growing styles affect when to begin flowering.
Sea of Green (SOG)
Sea of Green is an indoor growing method where the plants are flowered very small and usually produce only one large bud. The plants are packed close together and occupy about half a square foot at full maturity. The plant count higher than other methods so clones are usually preferred. Indica dominant strains work best and should be flowered when they reach between 6-12 inches tall.
Screen of Green (SCROG)
The Screen of Green method utilizes a screen of wire or string mesh stretched horizontally above the plants to create an even plant canopy and help support the flowering tops. When the tops are bent down under the mesh the lateral branches grow up through the net and become tops. This method requires less plants per square foot than the SOG method but still requires clones because males can’t be easily removed. Plants must stay in vegetative growth for several week longer than with the SOG method and usually are allowed to continue vegging for one week after the tops are bent down with the netting. In most cases, the screen is placed between 1 and 2 feet above the growing medium.Lollipopping
With the Lollipoping method the plants are usually switched to flowering around 1.5 feet for sativas and as much as 3 feet for indicas. The lower ⅓ to ½ of the plants branches are removed before the light cycle switch to direct the plants energy to the tops closest to the light source. This produces plants that resemble lollipops with long bare lower stems and multiple bushy tops.
Super Cropping
The Super Cropping method requires one of the longest veg periods but is designed to produce heavy yields with a minimal number of plants. While the plant is in in the 18/6 veg cycle the main stems are bent down to retard their vertical growth and promote the growth of lower branches. This decreases the overall height and results in bushy wide plants with tons of tops. If done properly vertical height does not become a problem and vegging can continue until the plants fill your horizontal space.
drewby
Well-Known Member
Plant Height Variation
When growing multiple plants you will often find a sizable variation in height of your plant. To maximize light exposure and therefore yield, it is ideal to flower plants of uniform height. Several methods can be used to help create an even canopy of tops before you switch to the flowering cycle.
Topping
By pinching off the tops of your taller plants you will not only create twice as many flowering tops, but you can buy some time for your shorter plants to catch up. This does stress the plants to some degree and I would suggest vegging for 1 week after topping instead of immediately switching to flowering.
Training
A less stressful approach is to train the tops of your taller plants down. This requires more skill and patience, but allows the lower branches to catch up. Several methods including screens (SCROG), plant tie, and stakes can help achieve the even canopy you are looking for.
Rotating Plants
Even with light movers the plants directly under the the lights will tend to grow the tallest and most robust. Rotating your plants each week from the outside edges of the grow area to better lit areas directly under the lights will help to create an even canopy. This only works if your growing method allows you to move the plants so it doesn’t won’t work with the SCROG method.
Plant Health
Half dead plants rarely make a sudden turnaround just because they are switched to the flowering light cycle. The veg cycle creates robust vegetation to support the plants while they flower. Without healthy foliage the plants ability to produce flowers is limited and its resources will be diverted to heal itself and fight off disease. It is much easier to treat nutrient and environmental deficiencies as well as pest problems while the plant is still in veg. A flowering plant that is stressed by poor health is also prone to reaching maturity early. This shortened flowering period gives the plant less time to produce the large trichome rich buds and will greatly affect the yield. Remember, veg usually takes only a few weeks while flowering can take from 7 to 14 weeks. Sometimes it makes sense to cut your losses and start a fresh round of plants rather than trying to flower sickly plants or coax them back to health.
When growing multiple plants you will often find a sizable variation in height of your plant. To maximize light exposure and therefore yield, it is ideal to flower plants of uniform height. Several methods can be used to help create an even canopy of tops before you switch to the flowering cycle.
Topping
By pinching off the tops of your taller plants you will not only create twice as many flowering tops, but you can buy some time for your shorter plants to catch up. This does stress the plants to some degree and I would suggest vegging for 1 week after topping instead of immediately switching to flowering.Training
A less stressful approach is to train the tops of your taller plants down. This requires more skill and patience, but allows the lower branches to catch up. Several methods including screens (SCROG), plant tie, and stakes can help achieve the even canopy you are looking for.
Rotating Plants
Even with light movers the plants directly under the the lights will tend to grow the tallest and most robust. Rotating your plants each week from the outside edges of the grow area to better lit areas directly under the lights will help to create an even canopy. This only works if your growing method allows you to move the plants so it doesn’t won’t work with the SCROG method.
Plant Health
Half dead plants rarely make a sudden turnaround just because they are switched to the flowering light cycle. The veg cycle creates robust vegetation to support the plants while they flower. Without healthy foliage the plants ability to produce flowers is limited and its resources will be diverted to heal itself and fight off disease. It is much easier to treat nutrient and environmental deficiencies as well as pest problems while the plant is still in veg. A flowering plant that is stressed by poor health is also prone to reaching maturity early. This shortened flowering period gives the plant less time to produce the large trichome rich buds and will greatly affect the yield. Remember, veg usually takes only a few weeks while flowering can take from 7 to 14 weeks. Sometimes it makes sense to cut your losses and start a fresh round of plants rather than trying to flower sickly plants or coax them back to health.