rkymtnman
Well-Known Member
oops. thanks for catching that. def need to RTFM then!NO. cap the ends for full power.
oops. thanks for catching that. def need to RTFM then!NO. cap the ends for full power.
So the black and white and green wires go to their respective friends on your outlet cord. From the fixture side, green goes to the same green on the outlet cord. The other two go to the black and white wires from the fixture- doesn't matter which goes to which, that's why they aren't black n white.
a potentiometer wired at the dimming wires is how it's done I think. Of course it would have to be the right value,i had to break out the magnifying glass to read the data sheet sticker on the side of the ballast. hope the print in the manual is a bit bigger like reader's digest sized for my shitty eyesight! lol.
one thing i am interested in: the 0 to 10 volt dimming feature of the ballast. i know you just tie them together for full power but curious how you get it to dim. hope philips.com can provide some answers
yep, just says to change the resistance value on the dimming wires. doesn't sound like an exact science.a potentiometer wired at the dimming wires is how it's done I think. Of course it would have to be the right value,
so with that deal from advanced tech for 200, i'm wondering the individual prices are for the bulb and the ballast? are they both around a hundy each?One of sunplix selling points is to dim when you don't need as much light, like early veg, this causes the lamp to shift to blue more. then the boost to 350 watts shifts red and of course increases intensity.
Philips lamps run me about 70 I think, the solis was 85. , the philips ballast is cheapest by far since it's not ready to go out of the box, but it works well, I'd like to see it up against a sunplix though or I'd like to see the signals compared.so with that deal from advanced tech for 200, i'm wondering the individual prices are for the bulb and the ballast? are they both around a hundy each?
those sunplix are manufactured in-house?Philips lamps run me about 70 I think, the solis was 85. , the philips ballast is cheapest by far since it's not ready to go out of the box, but it works well, I'd like to see it up against a sunplix though or I'd like to see the signals compared.
Only getting the ballast here, I'll put it on the luxor and the sunplix on the OG.those sunplix are manufactured in-house?
i just have to wire the bulb to the ballast and i'll be ready to fire it up.
pretty good deal if you DIY: luxor knockoff, ballast and bulb for $320 shipped.
i can't find where i read it but those cycloptic reflectors are supposed to be the most effiicient of all the 315 LECs on the market now.
Fuk dat.Need a new flower light. Not digging the 600w HPS anymore. Wanna go 1000w.
Allstarts are only 860w thi right? Fired off a 1kw would be a waste of electricity no?Fuk dat.
If you want to run a thouie, get a LFSW ballast and an allstart lamp or two; at least you'll have the right spectrum.
hey first, i'm guessing you are aware but i'll put this out there:Allstarts are only 860w thi right? Fired off a 1kw would be a waste of electricity no?
Whats ceiling space like? Wanted to go DE but 7ft ceilings
Philips marketing scam; they only run at 860W if your mag is plugged into 208V. At 240V they'll be pulling 1000W, plus the ballast itself. Don't get a mag; the LFSW units will drive the bulb much better.Allstarts are only 860w thi right? Fired off a 1kw would be a waste of electricity no?
Whats ceiling space like? Wanted to go DE but 7ft ceilings