Cheap and Cheerful DIY using Citizen cobs

Evil-Mobo

Evil-Mobo

Well-Known Member
SaltyNuts said:
accordingly, sixteen 1212's at 1080mA (37W) would produce about 90,000 lumens, at about 600W+.
Incidentally, the EYE Hortilux 600W SE HPS :idea: is rated 88,000 initial lumens, but there you've got significant reflector losses and of course different spectral quality, so I wonder how the PAR readings would compare, respectively.
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If I had a PAR meter worth a damn I could get similar readings soon but with a 600w Blue MH as I dont have the HPS bulb in the 600..........

But I haven't really seen a meter that folks say is worth a damn that's "affordable" lol............

I will be making a light with 1812 cities 4000K 80 CRI in the near future, thinking three 4 COB bars would be a good fit per 4x4 area............240/1050B MW drivers, pin heat sinks, and lenses is the plan............
 
SaltyNuts

SaltyNuts

Well-Known Member
Vonkins said:
From what I understand 1818 has more diodes which means more lumens. 1818s are priced around 25$. Sound great to me. I would like to see an 1818 grow compared to 3590 side by side. To see exactly how much better the 3590s are. I'm trying to get the largest yield possible out of 20 or 24 cobs. Should I run them at 1400ma or 1080? I was thinking 1400ma because I've read the citizens handle being pushed hard very well. I'm such a freaking ignorant newb when it comes to these cobs. If I do push them at 1400ma what are the negatives other than heat and cob life. I plan on handling the heat with 2 120 or 140mm fans on the back of each heatsink. What do u guys think? Damn I really do want the cree but like I said I would love to see a comparison
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with the right driver you can use the dimming function to adjust them depending on how it's going. Seems like the 36W-50W range is pretty nice at twelve cobs/4x4 so the HLG185C-1400 would just barely do four 1212's in that range, and the HLG240C-1050 would work the 1812 or 1818 cobs in that range. Or you could run at least four 1212's with an HLG320-C-1750 and see how much juice they can take, I mean if they like being driven hard, dirty little bitches.
 
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SaltyNuts

SaltyNuts

Well-Known Member
Evil-Mobo said:
If I had a PAR meter worth a damn I could get similar readings soon but with a 600w Blue MH as I dont have the HPS bulb in the 600..........

But I haven't really seen a meter that folks say is worth a damn that's "affordable" lol............

I will be making a light with 1812 cities 4000K 80 CRI in the near future, thinking three 4 COB bars would be a good fit per 4x4 area............240/1050B MW drivers, pin heat sinks, and lenses is the plan............
Click to expand...
I can't wait to hear about it, that's like what I want to build
 
Evil-Mobo

Evil-Mobo

Well-Known Member
SaltyNuts said:
I can't wait to hear about it, that's like what I want to build
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The PAR readings would help me see whether or not I can save a fixture over the space by using only two (4) COB bars vs three.......

So if anyone has a suggestion I'm all ears. I will be running a comparison grow soon just in the process of getting things setup.
 
Evil-Mobo

Evil-Mobo

Well-Known Member
SaltyNuts said:
check out this guys progress http://420dotcom.com/karmarado-strain.html
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Interesting thanks for the links. I have a 1000W HPS here as well but didn't think it fair to run (2) bars against it either like the author of that article I would have though 2 bars vs a 600W or three bars vs the 1000W............glad to see I'm not the only opne exploring this comparison. I for one think we need more relevant info on things like this from people who do not work for the companies their lights came from, or grow with HPS but "say" they grow with LED etc, etc. All kinds of crazy shit on YT lol..........
 
SaltyNuts

SaltyNuts

Well-Known Member
SaltyNuts said:
accordingly, sixteen 1212's at 1080mA (37W) would produce about 90,000 lumens, at about 600W+.

(CORRECTION: 101,760 lumens [at 1100mA])

Incidentally, the EYE Hortilux 600W SE HPS :idea: is rated 88,000 initial lumens, but there you've got significant reflector losses and of course different spectral quality, so I wonder how the PAR readings would compare, respectively.
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I was just going off datasheet numbers, but a new thread popped up with better info https://www.rollitup.org/t/new-vero-cob.912433/ I pulled this graph from that thread:


check this out too:
https://www.rollitup.org/t/math-behind.868988/
 
sixstring2112

sixstring2112

Well-Known Member
JorgeGonzales said:
If those are constant current drivers that can do 112V, you have options. I'd go with 2x CLU048-1812 per driver for cheapness and ease of building. @robincnn has them in stock. Way, way cheaper than a Cree solution, and the new Veros are still MIA.

That is if I understand your driver specs correctly. Isn't there a Mars conversion thread here?
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hey jorge,what do you think about these cobs roobin has listed?have you built anything with these yet? im not seeing alot of info on them yet but i just started looking,figured i would ask you first.

https://northerngrowlights.com/collections/all/products/citizen-clu048-cob-with-holder
 
Evil-Mobo

Evil-Mobo

Well-Known Member
CobKits

CobKits

Well-Known Member
Evil-Mobo said:
I will be testing the same COB's soon, building 4000K flower light and a 5000K veg light. Just waiting on parts from robin
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i dont know anybody in our community that stocks 5000k citis tho thats a popular color with CDI and they usually have them
 
Johnnycannaseed1

Johnnycannaseed1

Well-Known Member
Evil-Mobo said:
If I had a PAR meter worth a damn I could get similar readings soon but with a 600w Blue MH as I dont have the HPS bulb in the 600..........

But I haven't really seen a meter that folks say is worth a damn that's "affordable" lol............

I will be making a light with 1812 cities 4000K 80 CRI in the near future, thinking three 4 COB bars would be a good fit per 4x4 area............240/1050B MW drivers, pin heat sinks, and lenses is the plan............
Click to expand...
Here is some maths to help you approximate your conundrum.

54.6watts x 7.5ish (ppfd/w) = 409.5 or rounded up 410ppfd per COB

12 (COBs) x 410ppfd = 4920ppfd per 1.2m2 or way to much for a 1.2m2 area.

I reckon you can drop it down to 10 COBs ....but you might possibly find you can go as low as 6 for a flowering set up, although it would require some testing to be certain.

For a veg set up reckon you could get away with 6 COBs (possibly just 4) per 1.2m2 area.:peace:
 
Evil-Mobo

Evil-Mobo

Well-Known Member
Johnnycannaseed1 said:
Here is some maths to help you approximate your conundrum.

54.6watts x 7.5ish (ppfd/w) = 409.5 or rounded up 410ppfd per COB

12 (COBs) x 410ppfd = 4920ppfd per 1.2m2 or way to much for a 1.2m2 area.

I reckon you can drop it down to 10 COBs ....but you might possibly find you can go as low as 6 for a flowering set up, although it would require some testing to be certain.

For a veg set up reckon you could get away with 6 COBs (possibly just 4) per 1.2m2 area.:peace:
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I'm going to first try (2) 4 COB bars per area and see how it goes. The veg tent will soon get a 4 cob 5000K too but will be a square frame and not a bar setup.

I appreciate your help with the numbers
 
coreywebster

coreywebster

Well-Known Member
Millsie said:
http://ce.citizen.co.jp/lighting_led/en/products2/notice_Simulator_ver5.html

Use the above, it's basically a calculator that will give you an easy to reference guide on how much citizen cobs can produce given specific ma/amps
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Hey Millsie, what program should that simulator open with? I have tried it several times from different threads when its been linked.
Every time it just opens with exel viewer and appears as a spread sheet where I cant input anything. I gave up the first few times and forgot about it.. Now I've invested in some clu058s Im determined to get that sim to work. :sad:

Cheers
 
Johnnycannaseed1

Johnnycannaseed1

Well-Known Member
@coreywebster I have the same issues, I could use the simulator on MS office suite 2010 but then my lappy went, I got another with MS office suite 2007 (non-registered) so I was only able to open and view the file but that was it, so I installed open office 4.1.2 and whilst I can open and edit the file, the values come up N/A.

So it could be a compatibility issue and you might need to run office 2010 or newer.
 
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