secret of healthy soil: carbon hoarding

MistaRasta

Well-Known Member
gotta say I have never ever ever heard of a carbon deficiency...
@Wetdog

"Losses of OC from soil are from decomposition by microorganisms, erosion of surface soil and offtake in plant and animal production. Decomposition occurs when microorganisms use OC in soil to obtain the carbon, nutrients and energy they need to live. During decomposition, OC is lost from soil because microorganisms convert about half of the OC to carbon dioxide gas (CO2). Without continual inputs of OC, the amount stored in soil will decrease over time because OC is always being decomposed by microorganisms."

So without continuous input just as described above, and just as in an old growth forest we must contribute or we will see a decomp of oc in the soil. Like i said, yes, WE generally wont see a C def, because WE know what were doing as Wet explained below, we have a good CEC holding it. For the most part we are covered on C, but compost for instance has a 12:1 ratio which is good but we want our soil to be around 30:1, so if all one is using is compost to mulch eventually c:n ratios will get out whack causing problems in the rhizoshpere.

Source:
http://www.soilquality.org.au/factsheets/how-much-carbon-can-soil-store
 

Rasta Roy

Well-Known Member
@Wetdog

"Losses of OC from soil are from decomposition by microorganisms, erosion of surface soil and offtake in plant and animal production. Decomposition occurs when microorganisms use OC in soil to obtain the carbon, nutrients and energy they need to live. During decomposition, OC is lost from soil because microorganisms convert about half of the OC to carbon dioxide gas (CO2). Without continual inputs of OC, the amount stored in soil will decrease over time because OC is always being decomposed by microorganisms."

So without continuous input just as described above, and just as in an old growth forest we must contribute or we will see a decomp of oc in the soil. Like i said, yes, WE generally wont see a C def, because WE know what were doing as Wet explained below, we have a good CEC holding it. For the most part we are covered on C, but compost for instance has a 12:1 ratio which is good but we want our soil to be around 30:1, so if all one is using is compost to mulch eventually c:n ratios will get out whack causing problems in the rhizoshpere.

Source:
http://www.soilquality.org.au/factsheets/how-much-carbon-can-soil-store
Very good info to know!
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
good to learn new shit guys
thanks
I also just learned a bunch of shit in regards to the carbon in the soil and it's relation to mycorrhizal fungi.
Apparently the fungal propagation doesn't happen without carbon in the soil
I just NEVER have heard anyone say anything about it before.
course I've been in an organic soil for like, shit, since the late 90s? I think it was 98 I first switched
 

MistaRasta

Well-Known Member
good to learn new shit guys
thanks
I also just learned a bunch of shit in regards to the carbon in the soil and it's relation to mycorrhizal fungi.
Apparently the fungal propagation doesn't happen without carbon in the soil
I just NEVER have heard anyone say anything about it before.
course I've been in an organic soil for like, shit, since the late 90s? I think it was 98 I first switched
Yeah, i may be the first to coin the term "C def" lol.. but when we run short, we run out of energy in our soil, halting transfer of nutrients, showing nutrient def's (usually macros) which in turn has growers pouring 'organic' concoctions onto their rhizoshpere messing things up even more. Phosphoric acid, Cal/mag, Guano, Fish hydrolosate, ph'd water etc.. All to fix a problem thats as simple as mulching..If you get some nice woody leafy material on top you dont need to worry. I use old cannabis stems in conjunction with leaves, rice hulls, and straw.

Carbons' function..

'Biochemical Sequence of Nutrition in Plants'

Plants biosequence begins with:

1.)Boron, which activates >
2.) Silicon, which carries all other nutrients starting with >
3.) Calcium, which binds >
4.) Nitrogen, to form amino acids, Dna, and cell division. Amino acids form proteins such as chlorophyll and trace elements especially >
5.) Magnesium, which transfers via energy >
6.) Phosphorus, to >
7.) Carbon, to form form sugars to go where >
8.) Potassium carries them.

This is the basis of plant growth...

No carbon no K, also ties up P locking up a slew of other goodies.
 

coughphee.connoiseur

Well-Known Member
@MistaRasta

Please allow me to pick your brain a bit for a short moment. So 1/8 cup of malted barley ( already to go and sprouted) in a custom 2x2 soil bed for top dress a ok? or little more or a little less you think? Id say it holds about 1 cubit foot of soil.

Also vegging 2, 3 & 4 weeks some maybe 6 so... one would need to top dress every 2 weeks? or maybe 4? until mid flower...
 

MistaRasta

Well-Known Member
@MistaRasta

Please allow me to pick your brain a bit for a short moment. So 1/8 cup of malted barley ( already to go and sprouted) in a custom 2x2 soil bed for top dress a ok? or little more or a little less you think? Id say it holds about 1 cubit foot of soil.

Also vegging 2, 3 & 4 weeks some maybe 6 so... one would need to top dress every 2 weeks? or maybe 4? until mid flower...
If its around 7 gallons worth of soil, 1-2 tbsp would be perfect for a top dress.

Im in 15's(soon to be 30's) and I use 2 tbsp every other week in veg.. 2 weeks before flip i'll top dress a little neem, kelp, and earth worm castings, then lay down some straw thats been sprayed with alfalfa seed sprout tea, really helps to speed up the stretch so the girls can start stacking..

From the first week in flower i top dress malted barley, corn, and rye every week generally up until the last week or two... You can go up to week 4 and cut if you'd like but you'll notice the longer you use the grains the more smell and resin you'll get as well as a faster finishing time.
 

coughphee.connoiseur

Well-Known Member
If its around 7 gallons worth of soil, 1-2 tbsp would be perfect for a top dress.

Im in 15's(soon to be 30's) and I use 2 tbsp every other week in veg.. 2 weeks before flip i'll top dress a little neem, kelp, and earth worm castings, then lay down some straw thats been sprayed with alfalfa seed sprout tea, really helps to speed up the stretch so the girls can start stacking..

From the first week in flower i top dress malted barley, corn, and rye every week generally up until the last week or two... You can go up to week 4 and cut if you'd like but you'll notice the longer you use the grains the more smell and resin you'll get as well as a faster finishing time.
MI guan.... Thenk yuh fi dis info.

Yuh sprout yuh corn first ye? teas an all ye?

Im rocking grokashi through out veg and flower fi sure.... get a few bags pon ice...
 

MistaRasta

Well-Known Member
MI guan.... Thenk yuh fi dis info.

Yuh sprout yuh corn first ye? teas an all ye?

Im rocking grokashi through out veg and flower fi sure.... get a few bags pon ice...
I buy my grains malted, way easier and less time consuming buying malted grains and top dressing them than trying to sprout it yourself and make a tea.

..Alfalfa being the only exception because I cant find it malted..but its definitely worth it the one or two times i sprout it in a cycle.

I just bought my first bag of gro kashi the other week and it seems to be doing good on my worm bins. I 'll definitely go back to just topdressing with barley as the npk is equivalent. Not to mention grains are COVERED in lacto strains.
 

MistaRasta

Well-Known Member
@MistaRasta thanks for spreading the carbon and barley knowledge! We talked last right before I got my next round going...now I'm a little over a week from cutdown and these are gonna be some of my biggest girls yet.
Wow :clap::clap::clap:

great job on those beasts brotha. I can tell just by the structure a good handful of barley was thrown down every now and then. The mulch layer and the barley are crucial, if you dont have atleast one of these going on, youre missing out.

Any inputs used?
or water only?
 

coughphee.connoiseur

Well-Known Member

coughphee.connoiseur

Well-Known Member
I buy my grains malted, way easier and less time consuming buying malted grains and top dressing them than trying to sprout it yourself and make a tea.

..Alfalfa being the only exception because I cant find it malted..but its definitely worth it the one or two times i sprout it in a cycle.

I just bought my first bag of gro kashi the other week and it seems to be doing good on my worm bins. I 'll definitely go back to just topdressing with barley as the npk is equivalent. Not to mention grains are COVERED in lacto strains.
Say word........ so the malted barley....( i have some on deck but will need more fi sure).... pretty come comes equipped like the grokashi almost just cheaper.... ? makes sense if so because the smell of grokashi brews is very similar to the malted barley brews and they bubble up excessively and uncontrollably. Wont be aerating them to much from now on just a soak and ferment.
 

Wetdog

Well-Known Member
Say word........ so the malted barley....( i have some on deck but will need more fi sure).... pretty come comes equipped like the grokashi almost just cheaper.... ? makes sense if so because the smell of grokashi brews is very similar to the malted barley brews and they bubble up excessively and uncontrollably. Wont be aerating them to much from now on just a soak and ferment.
Why brew at all?

Coot did an experiment a couple years back and found that malted barley powder applied as a top dress and just watered in worked just as well as the brews, with no mess.

A $12 electric coffee grinder does great for powdering the malted barley. We mainly use it as a spice grinder, but the MB adds no taste's to it.

Haven't done a 'brew' of any sorts in years.

Wet
 

Rasta Roy

Well-Known Member
Wow :clap::clap::clap:

great job on those beasts brotha. I can tell just by the structure a good handful of barley was thrown down every now and then. The mulch layer and the barley are crucial, if you dont have atleast one of these going on, youre missing out.

Any inputs used?
or water only?
Some kelp and alfalfa teas here and there, mostly after transplanting and at the end of veg. Same thing for fulvic acid here and there. I threw some all purpose seabird guano in with a castings AACT when I first transitioned into flower and it burnt them a little, so I've pretty much been plain flower ever since. I gave them some homemade lactobacillus a few weeks ago. But mostly plain water. Any inputs added were always spread two weeks apart.
 

Rasta Roy

Well-Known Member
Nice set up..... How many ppms co2 you pumping? do you cut back at the end of harvest..?
I run 1500ppm but I stop supplementation the last two weeks. I used to run it right to the end but I would get more foxtails and delayed ripening so now I don't. There is some science behind it but Im a bad source! The plants let off some gas when they're ripening and co2 supplementation can hinder or delay it somehow. Again I'm not a good source for that particular bit of science. I just know I don't have any foxtails on this round.
 

Fastslappy

Well-Known Member
I buy my grains malted, way easier and less time consuming buying malted grains and top dressing them than trying to sprout it yourself and make a tea.
i did blue/yellow corn sst's all summer it's work plain simple pain in the ass , it works real well too bongsmilie.
ground malted corn my next gro
 

Chunky Stool

Well-Known Member
I run 1500ppm but I stop supplementation the last two weeks. I used to run it right to the end but I would get more foxtails and delayed ripening so now I don't. There is some science behind it but Im a bad source! The plants let off some gas when they're ripening and co2 supplementation can hinder or delay it somehow. Again I'm not a good source for that particular bit of science. I just know I don't have any foxtails on this round.
I may have screwed up my durban poison. Gave em half strength pura vida -- which is already mild (2-6-6). They sure puffed up the last couple of days! Lots of new white hairs too. Growing sativa isn't easy. I never have these problems with my indica plants...
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