Energy meter wiring

Hello guys!

You all have been very helpful in providing infos for my next build, a good old 4 CXB3590 3000K 90 CRI setup. Maybe i could have done my homework a little better, I've seen there are better cobs around, but the order has been placed and alas, this will do. However, I can't find the help i need for wiring a little LCD energy meter into my system, so that I can monitor the wattage of the cobs that I plan to regulate via an external linear 100k ohm potentiometer hooked to my HLG-185H-C1400B.

I've found two different kinds of LCD energy meters, one with model number PZEM-061 and the other, PZEM-051.

PZEM-061 is an AC energy meter, with a ring trough which i should thread either the line or the neutral coming from the wall and going to the driver.

PZEM-051 is a DC energy meter, that must be wired in series with the cobs by using a "shunt" (in quotes because it's not really clear to me what it is). Intuition tells me that this is the one i need, but... Current obviously flows trough this shunt, in series with the cobs, should i worry about it?

Which one is the right one? Does plugging an energy meter and a dimmer in the system "rob" the driver of current/voltage, thus preventing me from running 4 cobs @ 1.4 ampere? I tried to calculate everything, to be sure that I could power 4 CLX3590, 36V with the HLG-185H-C1400B, and the calculation came up pretty tight.

Thanks to everybody in advance!
 

Los Reefersaurus

Well-Known Member
I have these cobs, I love these cobs you are doing alright my friend. They put out lots of plant usable light and they run so cool. You picked well. One piece of advice , if you switched from HIDs I recommend paying close attention to your run off ppms, the plants start drinking way more water and eating way less salts
 
Thanks for the answers guys, appreciated.

I think i cannot quote because of newbie restrictions but... 1212ham: Yup i've noticed the 051 doesn't have the right rating, i was using it as an example of the type of power meter. Thanks for the kill-a-watt suggestion, i'm in EU but i could find something similar and hopefully less ugly =P.

Reefersaurus: thanks bud, I hope i'll be able to dial 'em in.

Organic MIner: I read through his neverending dimmer thread, but couldn't pinpoint my answer. Wouldn't you happen to be able to find the YouTube video for me? I've found some good basic infos there, but no LED driver wiring unfortunately =/.

Have a nice one!
 

VegasWinner

Well-Known Member
Hello guys!

You all have been very helpful in providing infos for my next build, a good old 4 CXB3590 3000K 90 CRI setup. Maybe i could have done my homework a little better, I've seen there are better cobs around, but the order has been placed and alas, this will do. However, I can't find the help i need for wiring a little LCD energy meter into my system, so that I can monitor the wattage of the cobs that I plan to regulate via an external linear 100k ohm potentiometer hooked to my HLG-185H-C1400B.

I've found two different kinds of LCD energy meters, one with model number PZEM-061 and the other, PZEM-051.

PZEM-061 is an AC energy meter, with a ring trough which i should thread either the line or the neutral coming from the wall and going to the driver.

PZEM-051 is a DC energy meter, that must be wired in series with the cobs by using a "shunt" (in quotes because it's not really clear to me what it is). Intuition tells me that this is the one i need, but... Current obviously flows trough this shunt, in series with the cobs, should i worry about it?

Which one is the right one? Does plugging an energy meter and a dimmer in the system "rob" the driver of current/voltage, thus preventing me from running 4 cobs @ 1.4 ampere? I tried to calculate everything, to be sure that I could power 4 CLX3590, 36V with the HLG-185H-C1400B, and the calculation came up pretty tight.

Thanks to everybody in advance!
They both work the same I use both styles there is a third PZEM-021 also just like the 051
 
They both work the same I use both styles there is a third PZEM-021 also just like the 051
Designing the aluminium frame right now, this is gonna rock. Could you please elaborate a bit on the shunt version? I'm stuck on those two questions... Does it use up any voltage, going over the maximum "voltage pool" of the driver? Is the shunt itself dangerous, since current pass through it, and the shunt touches the aluminium frame?

I'm sorry to be such a bother guys, I'm usually just a lurker, but my google-fu is weak ...
 

Organic Miner

Well-Known Member
Thanks man, checked! I'm leaning toward the AC power meter, it won't display accurately the amperage/voltage of the cob system but i will be much more at peace by not having that shunt in the middle of the circuit.
It will accurately reflect what you are drawing at the wall, and you have your COB data sheet lying around you can compute a ballpark figure in your head the PAR watts you are getting.

Let's say I designed my setup to be 50% efficient, then I just take half the meter reading as my PAR watts. Anyway, watts at the wall is what you're paying for.
 

visajoe1

Well-Known Member
i just use a killwatt and citi calculator to determine what my cobs are doing. i just change the mah input on the calculator until the "watts at the wall" matches the wattage on the killawatt.
 
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