The Dons' Organic Garden

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
The sawdust has been aging for 3 to 5 years as mentioned, and alone by itself (just checked) weighs about 75000 lbs, and seems low dust, pine fir dom, quite good stuff, is free for the taking too, so just curious about commercial bokashi, seeing all kits on first page of links here, and don't see bokashi in any stores here, but don't see much of anything, so thats not really a sign.

Edit:
This looks like a makeshift brand but here's someone selling it lol
http://store.bokashicycle.com/bpc03
 
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hillbill

Well-Known Member
Sandy soil has great drainage if there is no hardpan underneath. Pavers/sharp sand do well in a mix and I use some. Weight is the problem when indoors. But I like some gravel and sand in my mix not river sand though as it has rounded edges from water running through it.
 

hillbill

Well-Known Member
The bulk of rice hull bales makes shipping a small amount expensive so bigger lots are the way to go. They composted in my mix faster than I expected.
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
Thanks @Rasta Roy .

Then I will haul 10 tonnes to my buddies. Start the next batch :D. How many tonnes of grass would you suggest @greasemonkeymann, about 5? so about 50% of the current total?

Im thinking add 1 tonne of bio char per 10 tonne compost mix, I might have a source on some already made naturally by giant forest piles that caught fire under the surface, but if not, we could make some in a field as well. Just enough as we need.

:D
wow man... that's gonna be the mother of all piles
so lets do some math here... a typical sawdust carbon ratio is roughly 500-600 to 1.... yea, that's right.. VERY high in carbon.
so the typical ratio of grass clippings (fresh, if dried it'll be a higher ratio) is 17/1
so in order to get that pile to the needed to the normal composting ratio it's gonna be a LOT of clippings.
we discussed a fungal driven slower type pile right?
so you'd want to go at a higher carbon ratio for that, which considering the sawdust is possibly THE highest ratio of carbon to begin with i think it'll be relatively easy.
a 6/1 ratio of grass to sawdust will get you a rough ratio of around 86/1, that would have a pile go fairly slowly, and waaay more fungal composting
BUT that'd take damn near a yr to finish probably.
remember that's by weight, not volume, as the sawdust is fairly light, so you don't wanna do it by layering via inches/depth
if the grass clippings were fresh i'd guess the layering would be probably close to like an 2 inches of grass to every 6 to 8 inches of sawdust
but that's a guess, i don't know how fine/dense the sawdust is.
another thing to consider is that you may be able to find other sources of "greens" possibly for free
examples would be like chicken manure (around 7/1), coffee grinds from coffee shops (25/1) ,grocery store expiring/rotting fruit/veggie scraps (varies but around 15/1, to 40/1, (honestly better for worm bins but they'll work in composts too)
may even find deals on rabbit manure and the like, I've heard of people getting a whole flatbed load of rabbit manure for like nearly nothing
steer, horse, or other manures could be used too, but those are less rich in nitrogen, and higher in sodium content (neutralized in the composting btw)
if you are a lil confused on the ratios and the math it's simple
take all the carbon and add it up, take all the nitrogen and add it up, then divide the carbon by the nitrogen number.
so for example the sawdust is 500/1, so an 6/1 ratio with grass would be 602/7
that's the 6 parts of grass clippings (17 parts of carbon x 6) and the nitrogen added up (6)
so that's 102/6 ratio of carbon to nitrogen
add the 500/1 ratio of the sawdust and you have 602/7
then divide the carbon by the nitrogen
that's a 86/1 ratio, which is "lean" by composting standards, but it'd be a cold fungal driven pile that'd take longer but would entail less turning. BUT slooooow...
you'd need nearly a 11/1 ratio to properly get a good thermophilic compost going
honestly a sawdust pile is gonna take some time man, it has the highest carbon ratio of nearly anything you'd compost, shit even newspaper is like three times the ratio that sawdust is.
usually composters will advise people to go verrrrry light on wood inputs in a compost pile, solely because they take SO long to finish and it's hard to construct a pile with a lopsided ratio like that, especially with a fluffy input like sawdust.
think about it, that's 11 kgs of grass to ONE kg of sawdust... granted grass is heavy, but still, that's a helluva ratio man
i'd be looking at richer inputs ideally, and chicken manure is one that comes to mind, or fish product/slaughterhouse stuff
bloodmeal, fish meal, and the like
but those usually aren't free
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
wow man... that's gonna be the mother of all piles
so lets do some math here... a typical sawdust carbon ratio is roughly 500-600 to 1.... yea, that's right.. VERY high in carbon.
so the typical ratio of grass clippings (fresh, if dried it'll be a higher ratio) is 17/1
so in order to get that pile to the needed to the normal composting ratio it's gonna be a LOT of clippings.
we discussed a fungal driven slower type pile right?
so you'd want to go at a higher carbon ratio for that, which considering the sawdust is possibly THE highest ratio of carbon to begin with i think it'll be relatively easy.
a 6/1 ratio of grass to sawdust will get you a rough ratio of around 86/1, that would have a pile go fairly slowly, and waaay more fungal composting
BUT that'd take damn near a yr to finish probably.
remember that's by weight, not volume, as the sawdust is fairly light, so you don't wanna do it by layering via inches/depth
if the grass clippings were fresh i'd guess the layering would be probably close to like an 2 inches of grass to every 6 to 8 inches of sawdust
but that's a guess, i don't know how fine/dense the sawdust is.
another thing to consider is that you may be able to find other sources of "greens" possibly for free
examples would be like chicken manure (around 7/1), coffee grinds from coffee shops (25/1) ,grocery store expiring/rotting fruit/veggie scraps (varies but around 15/1, to 40/1, (honestly better for worm bins but they'll work in composts too)
may even find deals on rabbit manure and the like, I've heard of people getting a whole flatbed load of rabbit manure for like nearly nothing
steer, horse, or other manures could be used too, but those are less rich in nitrogen, and higher in sodium content (neutralized in the composting btw)
if you are a lil confused on the ratios and the math it's simple
take all the carbon and add it up, take all the nitrogen and add it up, then divide the carbon by the nitrogen number.
so for example the sawdust is 500/1, so an 6/1 ratio with grass would be 602/7
that's the 6 parts of grass clippings (17 parts of carbon x 6) and the nitrogen added up (6)
so that's 102/6 ratio of carbon to nitrogen
add the 500/1 ratio of the sawdust and you have 602/7
then divide the carbon by the nitrogen
that's a 86/1 ratio, which is "lean" by composting standards, but it'd be a cold fungal driven pile that'd take longer but would entail less turning. BUT slooooow...
you'd need nearly a 11/1 ratio to properly get a good thermophilic compost going
honestly a sawdust pile is gonna take some time man, it has the highest carbon ratio of nearly anything you'd compost, shit even newspaper is like three times the ratio that sawdust is.
usually composters will advise people to go verrrrry light on wood inputs in a compost pile, solely because they take SO long to finish and it's hard to construct a pile with a lopsided ratio like that, especially with a fluffy input like sawdust.
think about it, that's 11 kgs of grass to ONE kg of sawdust... granted grass is heavy, but still, that's a helluva ratio man
i'd be looking at richer inputs ideally, and chicken manure is one that comes to mind, or fish product/slaughterhouse stuff
bloodmeal, fish meal, and the like
but those usually aren't free
Very informative, and useful post brotha, thank you! I wonder if we could trade a healthy free range farmer bedding for chicken manure!

So wow, lets recap, Over 30 tonnes of sawdust aged 3-5 years, is that long enough so you think to break down 100%, I wasn't even seeing compost as an option for the sawdust but you're right, its a multi use biomass hey! Some of the neighbouring companies are battling with sawdust piles self igniting under the surface so that essentially bio char sawdust.. looks like there's this big company doing about 5 10 things just with this sawdust with 38% biochar matter.. the potential continues to build sky high it looks like..

Plus lets not forget, a large very deep acreage of (de barker station timber) compost, 40 acres or so of hog, wood, chips, and some sawdust, buried a good 30 to 50 feet deep according to the GM of the plant. All ours. Have at it he said. 4 billions pounds worth, dry. and its not dry per se. lol. So its more.

So I'm not forced to compost all of either pile, there are tonnes and tonnes and tonnes of each, I guess the thing is to make the most viable plan for both mountains..

Source 1: Sawdust Mountain, 34 Tonnes

Source 2: 40 Acre Field, 40 feet deep, ~4 billion lbs, Debarker Pine blend compost

Seems like biochar is gonna be the ticket, to pH stabilization, anyway.

And now to work on some nitrogen sources, trades preferably!
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
Hey again folks!

Got some quotes today for soil / compost tests

The PCB test's are $130 cad / 100usd
Pesticides $420
Metals $114
N-P-K $79 / 60usd

CAD not USD eh
any other good places in Canada recommended by all Jah'll?

Paying this much in the states, American friends?

Gonna shop are a few more places anyways, can never hurt :D
 

iHearAll

Well-Known Member
Hey again folks!

Got some quotes today for soil / compost tests

The PCB test's are $130 cad / 100usd
Pesticides $420
Metals $114
N-P-K $79 / 60usd

CAD not USD eh
any other good places in Canada recommended by all Jah'll?

Paying this much in the states, American friends?

Gonna shop are a few more places anyways, can never hurt :D
I do mine through an agricultural university. 5$ US a bag to test.
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
Herbal folks, Happy FRIDAY!
We now have a soil testing place lined up that can test all the macro and micro elements, ph CEC, etc for $50

Another yet for testing the toxicology and any unnatural/environmental impurities that may be inherent..

And another yet for testing the micro life, active and total bacteria, as well as fungi, and protozoa, and nematodes as well..

The 3 places combined equate to a well rounded brigade that can test for all minerals, all micro life, and all impurities. As well as soil stats found useful to gardeners. If anyone needs help testing in Canada, hit me up, I can share it all!

Just waiting for the samples to arrive from the big yard now. Exciting times.
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
Got in touch with Bob Wells! looking into a Biochar Retort, as well as 700L Kon-Tiki setups, and 45 Gallon drums, as I have a some for free I can get from another plant, fortunately. About 4 to 6 a week from a rocket plant :eyesmoke:
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
Just did fungal frass drench a few days ago, followed by a coco (P + enzyme), aloe (B vitamin + enzyme), foliar yesterday and another one tonight, but this time with a touch of mg + s. Plant terps are on overdrive now. The smells are right fuckin nuts..

One is smelling like Sweet Tarts and Cotton Candy (George pheno, Pink Gravy)

another is smelling like those Roasted Chicken and Cracked Pepper chips, my word! Fook, straight spicy chicken, a far cry from the gravy albeit related somewhat, same soil that grew the gravy but this is my Blue Diesel CBD cross, always always smells the same, exactly the same, and this time its just nutty

another yet from my brother @eastcoastmo is smelling like super strong lemony sharp Jack Cleaner / Pine Sol and this latest development is one that smells like Lavender and pure cocaine, its almost a gagger! wow.

Thanks, friends, just when I start getting healthy the garden starts smelling like an insane frat house party!!
 
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