I've read everything still need help

Buba Blend

Well-Known Member
Yeah. There is no acidic salt buildup. My advice still stands. No extra bloom fertilizer either. Or cal mag if calcium and magnesium are included in the base nutes.

And then wait til the pot dries out and feels light again.

You should have an ec meter (I use a blue lab truncheont) to see how much nutes are present in your runoff.

I meter every time to see trends. If the ec is rising they have had enough. If it is falling below what I just gave them they may need more.

People will say runoff testing is not accurate and they may be right but it still is a good way to tell if you are on track. I write it down going in and out each plant each time I water / feed.

Ec is equal to 500 ppm. Careful with companies like Botanicare that use a 700 ppm conversion. That's why I use ec.

I only check my soil ph runoff before I use a new mix. Maybe if I have a persistent problem. I use the gen hydro drops.
I like your comment about runoff. I have gone through different ways of looking at it. Thing is you know what your run off ppm's should be. Water only ffof and I can get a fresh batch to show a runoff of 3 or 4 thousand ppm's. I would water only till it dropped to a certain point before feeding. Thing is when someone says they checked their run off in ffof, we have no idea what they added to their soil to affect the PH and PPM's.
 

Go go n chill

Well-Known Member
ok

so your fertilizer is very potent and got a good amount of N I can see how you could have over done it

the bloom bottle you can just throw that one away..its so ridiculously high in P its not good for much

the grow isn't bad over all its just very low in K

an appropriate dose of the grow would be
per gallon
3mls grow
7mls calmag (if your calmag is 2% N 3.2% Ca)
1/8 tsp Epsom salt (0.5 grams)


so mixing that will produce

N 92ppm
P 31 ppm
K 33 ppm (very low ideally would be over 100ppm)
Ca 75ppm
Mg 40ppm

ideally what youd need is another bloom fertilizer that has a high K %

potassium sulfate would work but it would be hard to weigh but since your in soil you might just top dress 1/4 tsp now and again and be ok maybe 1x a month 2max, im not sure youd have to feel it out
GH kool bloom would work

or anything where the k number is the largest number on the bottle and theres little to no N

potassium silicate or silica blast would help some if your ph can handle it
tell me whats available to you and I will see if itll work
I'll be in there tomorrow
 

Go go n chill

Well-Known Member
I like your comment about runoff. I have gone through different ways of looking at it. Thing is you know what your run off ppm's should be. Water only ffof and I can get a fresh batch to show a runoff of 3 or 4 thousand ppm's. I would water only till it dropped to a certain point before feeding. Thing is when someone says they checked their run off in ffof, we have no idea what they added to their soil to affect the PH and PPM's.
To the soil I added nothing, straight out of the bag and dropped my seedlings in it
 

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
I like your comment about runoff. I have gone through different ways of looking at it. Thing is you know what your run off ppm's should be. Water only ffof and I can get a fresh batch to show a runoff of 3 or 4 thousand ppm's. I would water only till it dropped to a certain point before feeding. Thing is when someone says they checked their run off in ffof, we have no idea what they added to their soil to affect the PH and PPM's.
Yeah agreed plus all the other variables.

I think without a complete well documented grow thread from the beginning we can't really help but to try to teach fundamentals and hope the grower can learn and adapt to their situation.

No one mentions how much veg affects flowering.
 

im4satori

Well-Known Member
you need something that's got hardly any N (not more than 2%) and something where the K is around 10% or close

you don't really need any of the micros or whatever ...

if you've got other options you might jus be better off getting something else... can you get the GH flora grow and flora nova... if you can get that its great! complete and wont likely need anything else
 

Go go n chill

Well-Known Member
You know I looked back to the original post you started and my advice right below was to leach the pots with some fresh water to runoff and add back a balanced nute. Something close to 3-1-2 or 20-20-20 or mix the Grow and bloom 50/50 even could be fine and give a moderate dose. Like 25% of the directions.

Advice still stands. No need to use any products but base nutes. They will work fine. You need to understand how they work and what the plants need.

If the plants improve you know they we're just hungry.

If you start putting in more products you will have no idea which worked and what was actually needed.

I use 1 bottle and bagged soil. I need nothing else to harvest great meds. Well perlite for better drainage.

And I would use the bloom bottle if it was needed but mostly never is.
What soil do you use?
 

im4satori

Well-Known Member
that floranova and floragrow is good shit

its already got the kelp and fulvic and aminos in it

its an all in one and theyre very well balanced

you almost have to try and go out of your way to fuck it up using it in soil

7 to 8 mls of grow for veg full strength
7 to 8 mls of bloom in bloom full strength

that's it and done

your in soil theres no need to ph adjust the solution ..done done !
 

im4satori

Well-Known Member
with a little fish or guano or maybe just EWC whatever N an experienced grower might even be able to get away with using just the floranova bloom mix for veg and bloom in a soil grow
 

Go go n chill

Well-Known Member
you need something that's got hardly any N (not more than 2%) and something where the K is around 10% or close

you don't really need any of the micros or whatever ...

if you've got other options you might jus be better off getting something else... can you get the GH flora grow and flora nova... if you can get that its great! complete and wont likely need anything else
Yes I can get that I think, just the base nutes? I'll get an EC meter tommorow, that should help me slot to get a grasp on what is going on? Since its out of whack
 

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
What soil do you use?

I use Fox farms ocean forest with about 20% large perlite mixed in for better drainage. It's kind of heavy. But I water only through up to 6 weeks veg.

Of course they transplant up every 2-3 weeks into fresh soil.

I only start fertilizing when the plants look hungry and the soil in the final pot is depleted of nutrients. And I start light and taper up the concentration as the stretch and then taper back down after peak bud production to harvest. Always trying to keep the plant healthy and medium green. Or light green as some sativa leaning plants are anyway.

But I only use ocean forest because that was what was available in my little out in the woods town. It is consistent and reliable in my opinion but not the easiest choice for beginners as you do have to gauge the nutes left in the soil.

I actually recommend a 1 part nute and pro mix Hp or the equivalent as it is ready to use and you can learn how the fertilizer works as you will need to start around week 2 -3 with the nutes.

Makes things simple. Only real variable as long as you have a good stable environment and ventilation and good horticultural lighting is you.
 

Go go n chill

Well-Known Member
I use Fox farms ocean forest with about 20% large perlite mixed in for better drainage. It's kind of heavy. But I water only through up to 6 weeks veg.

Of course they transplant up every 2-3 weeks into fresh soil.

I only start fertilizing when the plants look hungry and the soil in the final pot is depleted of nutrients. And I start light and taper up the concentration as the stretch and then taper back down after peak bud production to harvest. Always trying to keep the plant healthy and medium green. Or light green as some sativa leaning plants are anyway.

But I only use ocean forest because that was what was available in my little out in the woods town. It is consistent and reliable in my opinion but not the easiest choice for beginners as you do have to gauge the nutes left in the soil.

I actually recommend a 1 part nute and pro mix Hp or the equivalent as it is ready to use and you can learn how the fertilizer works as you will need to start around week 2 -3 with the nutes.

Makes things simple. Only real variable as long as you have a good stable environment and ventilation and good horticultural lighting is you.
Do you give no nutes until wk 6? Or you start at week 3?. I have decent light 600w viparspectra reflector series's veg/ grow switches.
 

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
I would love to use one bottle, make it simple keep it fun, I'm not trying to win the gold ribbon at the fair

I wasn't in any competition for sure. You can tell by my crappy looking window board. But I send pics to the breeder of my favorite seeds and he used this one for a promotion.

It is Blue Lemon Thai

Grown in ocean forest / perlite and only Pure Blend Pro Grow added. Un ph'd well water used seedling to harvest. Well water tests 8.0 ph out of tap. And .3 ec or 150 ppm mostly calcium/ mag/ iron. And a bit of sulfer as well.

No tricks to growing a healthy potent plant. Just good gardening practices and a stable environment hospitable for the plants.

IMG_6055.PNG
 

im4satori

Well-Known Member
I wasn't in any competition for sure but I send pics to the breeder of my favorite seeds and he used this one for a promotion.

It is Blue Lemon Thai

Grown in ocean forest / perlite and only Pure Blend Pro Grow added. Un ph'd well water used seedling to harvest. Well water tests 8.0 ph out of tap. And .3 ec or 150 ppm mostly calcium/ mag/ iron. And a bit of sulfer as well.

No tricks to growing a healthy potent plant. Just good gardening practices and a stable environment hospitable for the plants.
that's good water.. no need for calmag with it

ffof is good stuff also

you get you a good soil that starts with a proper ph and up pot like he does and youll barely use nutes until bloom

maybe a little Epsom salt and or calmag every week or two depending on your source water... that's it

then a little well balanced fertilizer in low amounts until your done

you could also use the maxi grow and or maxi bloom dry salts from GH at 4 grams per gallon
 

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
that's good water.. no need for calmag with it

ffof is good stuff also

you get you a good soil that starts with a proper ph and up pot like he does and youll barely use nutes until bloom

maybe a little Epsom salt and or calmag every week or two depending on your source water... that's it

then a little well balanced fertilizer in low amounts until your done

you could also use the maxi grow and or maxi bloom dry salts from GH at 4 grams per gallon

I never needed cal mag in limed or oyster shell containing soil when I used ro water either. Using complete nutes of course.
 

im4satori

Well-Known Member
I wasn't in any competition for sure. You can tell by my crappy looking window board. But I send pics to the breeder of my favorite seeds and he used this one for a promotion.

It is Blue Lemon Thai

Grown in ocean forest / perlite and only Pure Blend Pro Grow added. Un ph'd well water used seedling to harvest. Well water tests 8.0 ph out of tap. And .3 ec or 150 ppm mostly calcium/ mag/ iron. And a bit of sulfer as well.

No tricks to growing a healthy potent plant. Just good gardening practices and a stable environment hospitable for the plants.

View attachment 3974272
so that's a CH9 from seed plant?blue lemon thai or is that a cut you got somewhere?

damn that's nice
 
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