Organic Grow newbie
- Thread starter JDeez
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- mykos organic growing
Olive Drab Green
Well-Known Member
If you have the money, look into Roots Organics Dry Nutrients Player Pack. That's all you will likely need for 5-10 grows. Comes with a master schedule and explanation.
Olive Drab Green
Well-Known Member
Olive Drab Green
Well-Known Member
Don't add anything to that FoxFarms though besides maybe mycorrhizae for the first month to month and a half. That soil's pretty hot.
Rasta Roy
Well-Known Member
Dont buy anything bottled it's a waste of money. Premixed soils like ocean forest are also overpriced. You can mix your own soil for cheaper.
15% peat moss, pine bark, or coco coir
35% aeration (I prefer Perlite or rice hulls but course Sand, and pumice are other options
50% composted organic matter (this could be compost, composted cow or horse manure, worm castings, leaf mold). I prefer a combination of as many different kinds of compost I can but whatever is available to you and the best quality is what you should lean on.
Neem Seed Meal or Neem Cake 1/2 cup per cubic foot
Crab shell meal or shrimp shell meal 1/2 cup per cubic foot
Fish Bone Meal 1/2 cup per cubic foot
Gypsum 1/2 cup per cubic foot
Langbeinite 1/4 cup per cubic foot
Kelp meal 1/2 cup per cubic foot
Alfalfa meal 1/4 cup per cubic foot
Oyster shell flour 1/4 cup per cubic foot
If it is too late to take back your ocean forest soil...first ask the grow store guy why he didn't buy you dinner before he tried to fuck you...
Then buy neem seed meal, fish bone meal, gypsum, alfalfa meal, and Langbeinite.
Your ocean forest soil will feed your plant to two to four weeks depending on the size of your pot and plant. You can top dress the neem seed meal right away (1/2 cup per plant). Two or three weeks after planting top dress with 1/2 cup per plant of neem meal, fish bone meal, alfalfa meal, and gypsum. Then 1/4 cup of Langbeinite. If you got bucks to spare 100% get a bag of worm castings, top dress with a couple cups per plant.
15% peat moss, pine bark, or coco coir
35% aeration (I prefer Perlite or rice hulls but course Sand, and pumice are other options
50% composted organic matter (this could be compost, composted cow or horse manure, worm castings, leaf mold). I prefer a combination of as many different kinds of compost I can but whatever is available to you and the best quality is what you should lean on.
Neem Seed Meal or Neem Cake 1/2 cup per cubic foot
Crab shell meal or shrimp shell meal 1/2 cup per cubic foot
Fish Bone Meal 1/2 cup per cubic foot
Gypsum 1/2 cup per cubic foot
Langbeinite 1/4 cup per cubic foot
Kelp meal 1/2 cup per cubic foot
Alfalfa meal 1/4 cup per cubic foot
Oyster shell flour 1/4 cup per cubic foot
If it is too late to take back your ocean forest soil...first ask the grow store guy why he didn't buy you dinner before he tried to fuck you...
Then buy neem seed meal, fish bone meal, gypsum, alfalfa meal, and Langbeinite.
Your ocean forest soil will feed your plant to two to four weeks depending on the size of your pot and plant. You can top dress the neem seed meal right away (1/2 cup per plant). Two or three weeks after planting top dress with 1/2 cup per plant of neem meal, fish bone meal, alfalfa meal, and gypsum. Then 1/4 cup of Langbeinite. If you got bucks to spare 100% get a bag of worm castings, top dress with a couple cups per plant.
Richard Drysift
Well-Known Member
Nothing wrong with using FFOF soil. I use it and have been recycling it over and over for years. I also apply mykos mycorrhizae in the hole at every transplant; great stuff.
In organic soil you have to get away from the bottled nute mentality; you never have to "feed" your plants...let the soil itself do all the work. You do need to keep the soil active microbally and that means using a clean non chlorinated water source and giving the occasional AACT. The best thing IMO you can do for your grow is to start a worm bin and/or at least source some bagged worm castings. Compost is what many organic noobs overlook because they are more focused on feeding their plants nutrients. If you keep the soil active the plants will consume what they need as long as it is present in the container. Learn about recycling soil and acquire the dry soil amendments listed above by Rasta Roy as you go. Like ODG says they will need nothing but water until they get some size say 18" or so then you can begin giving AACTs about every few weeks up until past mid flowering (week 5 or 6) then water only up to harvest.
Most growers on this forum abhor the use of anything in bottles but I recommend using neptunes harvest along with EWC and kelp in your aacteas at least until your mix reaches supernatural status which can take a few recycles in my exp.
If you use RO or distilled water you may also need to add an organic cal/mag like gen organics calmag+ which I still use for water with low ppms. Once some of the amendments you add in begin to break down and become available which can take a year or longer at which point you won't need to add cal/mag or anything else from a bottle. I also suggest pushing in a couple jobes organic spikes just before the flip which will feed your plants right through almost to harvest time.
In organic soil you have to get away from the bottled nute mentality; you never have to "feed" your plants...let the soil itself do all the work. You do need to keep the soil active microbally and that means using a clean non chlorinated water source and giving the occasional AACT. The best thing IMO you can do for your grow is to start a worm bin and/or at least source some bagged worm castings. Compost is what many organic noobs overlook because they are more focused on feeding their plants nutrients. If you keep the soil active the plants will consume what they need as long as it is present in the container. Learn about recycling soil and acquire the dry soil amendments listed above by Rasta Roy as you go. Like ODG says they will need nothing but water until they get some size say 18" or so then you can begin giving AACTs about every few weeks up until past mid flowering (week 5 or 6) then water only up to harvest.
Most growers on this forum abhor the use of anything in bottles but I recommend using neptunes harvest along with EWC and kelp in your aacteas at least until your mix reaches supernatural status which can take a few recycles in my exp.
If you use RO or distilled water you may also need to add an organic cal/mag like gen organics calmag+ which I still use for water with low ppms. Once some of the amendments you add in begin to break down and become available which can take a year or longer at which point you won't need to add cal/mag or anything else from a bottle. I also suggest pushing in a couple jobes organic spikes just before the flip which will feed your plants right through almost to harvest time.
Richard Drysift
Well-Known Member
And check out this book....
https://g.co/kgs/H2PqB6
https://g.co/kgs/H2PqB6
Diabolical666
Well-Known Member
Boogie brew is a nice priced tea that is a great product. Buying all those bags of shells, meals casting etc etc is expensive af
DonTesla
Well-Known Member
Myko's are pretty good. A bit chunky and thick/big but they'll do fine and are wayyy better than nothing, myco wise.
For feeding, look around at what you got around you.. comfrey, grass, leaves, coconut water, aloe, dandelions, flowers, oatmeal, epsom salt, etc
also you can look up recipes for Bokashi, Lacto bacillus serum, BIM, etc They are EASY and can last for a long time, and help growth explode
For feeding, look around at what you got around you.. comfrey, grass, leaves, coconut water, aloe, dandelions, flowers, oatmeal, epsom salt, etc
also you can look up recipes for Bokashi, Lacto bacillus serum, BIM, etc They are EASY and can last for a long time, and help growth explode
Rasta Roy
Well-Known Member
Respectfully disagree friend! The growing your greens guy on YouTube does a tour of the boogie brew factory...all they are doing is blending down to earth products (you literally see the DTE bags in the video), into one small bag. It is all those "expensive meals" you speak of, blended, marked up, and sold to you for a profit. Yes, you buying all the meals individually will be a pricier initial purchase...but they will last you longer...you control the ratios (like all blend companies, they skimp on the pricey components and fill out the blend product with the cheaper components)...the comparative cost is cheaper.
Why am I having to give out more retail lessons than growing ones lately? Lol
DonTesla
Well-Known Member
if you eat fruits or veggies or bread or meat, id say you could avoid buying worm castings for life
doug mirabelli
Well-Known Member
I'll definitely follow your model in the future with buying the Meels individually. Makes total sense. Once I buy a house and have my ultimate space I need, I'll have the space and knowledge from yous guys to get right. It's a lot of new terminologies and concepts for noobs to understand at first, try to sympathize lol.
Diabolical666
Well-Known Member
Because you are a fucking genius lol
No seriously..Im sure you can find some of the same bs in all those individual bags.
85$ i think it was for a huge supply of boogie
All those bags, even the small ones..will cost you a small.fortune and defeats the purpose of trying to save money and grow for yourself
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Diabolical666
Well-Known Member
Im not using my own shit to feed my plants..i dont eat 100% organic..if I did maybe i would lol.
Diabolical666
Well-Known Member
Id really recommend keeping it simple for 1st time organic growers. It can be a bit overwhelming at 1st. How much to use, ok, i just burned my plant..what do I do next, lacking something and dont know what it is. Go simple for the 1st time, read some books on organic growing and get a full understanding of the whole process.
Because if you just go and buy all this shit and it gets bad for you..you just wasted abuncha money and you are back to using easy chemical nutrients.
Because if you just go and buy all this shit and it gets bad for you..you just wasted abuncha money and you are back to using easy chemical nutrients.
DonTesla
Well-Known Member
Easy is a relative term.
There's people switching to organics using their own backyard, other using their local grasslands/forest/glaciers/volcanoes to switch, others yet using restaurants, landscapers, and lure places, even others yet using health food stores, pharmacies, and head shops. Where theres a will theres a way:
That said, here's simple:
50% compost, 50% aeration
no need to buy a thing if you're willing to boot around with a bucket collecting
add almost a litre of rock minerals and a cup of meals if you can, to each 5 gal bucket.
sprinkle with oat flour and cover with mulch
Once you figure out your amounts, its a joke really, just add water, lol. couldnt get any easier than that
even the chemical way isn't as easy once this is down pat
Rasta Roy
Well-Known Member
And the choir sang, "Amen!"
DonTesla
Well-Known Member
Hallelujah my fellow green Rasta!
organics dubwise
Member
Hallelujah indeed!!....Greetings fellow Rastas! I really dig the keep it simple approach but i would like to double check the numbers with you, if I may. this is where i'm at: I want a ready to use mix i can transplant my 5 week old plants in before the switch. I dont want to layer it because i have limited space and want all the good stuff (in moderate doses) and especially the microbiology thriving right from the start ..... So this is my recipie, inspired by you @DonTesla and @Rasta Roy in a dubwise style and fashion!!! (and in metric system):
20% coco
20% light mix or peat moss
10% perlite
25% Worm castings
20% compost
2-3% bokashi
250 ml/100l or (1 cup / 22 gal ) volcanic loam
250 ml/100l or (1 cup / 22 gal ) tuff
100ml/100l or (~1/2 cup / 22 gal ) rock powder/dust
100 ml/100l or (~1/2 cup / 22 gal ) dolomite lime
1l/100l or (~4 cups / 22 gal ) Biochar
100 ml/100l or (~1/2 cup / 22 gal ) cow manure
100 ml/100l chicken manure
100 ml/100l seabird n guano
100 ml/100l bat p guano
100 ml/100l palm tree ash
100 ml/100l horn meal
100 ml/100l seagrass powder
100 ml/100l guano with leonardite
150 ml/100l neem meal
1 tablespoon / 100l leonardite
1 teaspoon epsom salt
damped with effective microorganisms, water, and molasses, cooked for 30 days +
mycos are added to water in seedling stage and after transplants
my intuition tells me to cut down on worm poop and compost to 15% and 10% and fill up with coco and peat moss.....
what do you guys think? feedback is greatly appreciated! greetings!!
20% coco
20% light mix or peat moss
10% perlite
25% Worm castings
20% compost
2-3% bokashi
250 ml/100l or (1 cup / 22 gal ) volcanic loam
250 ml/100l or (1 cup / 22 gal ) tuff
100ml/100l or (~1/2 cup / 22 gal ) rock powder/dust
100 ml/100l or (~1/2 cup / 22 gal ) dolomite lime
1l/100l or (~4 cups / 22 gal ) Biochar
100 ml/100l or (~1/2 cup / 22 gal ) cow manure
100 ml/100l chicken manure
100 ml/100l seabird n guano
100 ml/100l bat p guano
100 ml/100l palm tree ash
100 ml/100l horn meal
100 ml/100l seagrass powder
100 ml/100l guano with leonardite
150 ml/100l neem meal
1 tablespoon / 100l leonardite
1 teaspoon epsom salt
damped with effective microorganisms, water, and molasses, cooked for 30 days +
mycos are added to water in seedling stage and after transplants
my intuition tells me to cut down on worm poop and compost to 15% and 10% and fill up with coco and peat moss.....
what do you guys think? feedback is greatly appreciated! greetings!!
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