Rider's first foray into LED strip lighting - Samsung H Series GEN3

Rider509

Rider509

Well-Known Member
Rider's first foray into LED strip lighting - Samsung H Series GEN3
I became interested in the LED strip cobs as a replacement for the 8' T12 fluorescents in my tattoo shop, but the more I looked into them I wondered if they could be used for growing. I ordered eight of the 4' 5000k 80 CRI lights and a Meanwell driver to experiment with. If it works I have an alternative to my Cree 3590 system. If it doesn't pan out the shop has new lights so I really can't go wrong.

8 x SI-B8R221B2HUS
1 x Meanwell HLG185H-C1050B

Using 22.5Vf the system will have a total forward voltage of 180V. That should be a good match to the Meanwell driver and return an efficacy of 192 lm/W for a total of 33,248 lumens if my math is right. (Cap't Morgan may have been involved) That's similar to a four cob CXB3590 36V system running at 1.5A, but the cost is less at the same level of light. Once I get everything in and assembled I'll run my PAR meter under it and report back.

The proof is in the PAR, but on paper the Samsung is looking pretty good. I ordered the HLG-185H-C1050B for this project but I have spare HLG-320H-C2100B drivers to play with. Using six of the Samsung LED strips in a package no bigger than my existing Cree 3590 system, and using the identical Meanwell driver, it looks like the Samsung will edge out the Cree system with room to spare. Am I missing something here?



In my mind the benefit of the Samsung strip COBs is a more uniform distribution of light without the hotspots that the Cree four COB setup exhibits. Lower initial cost is a plus, as is the lower cost of operation at the same output due to the efficacy of the Samsung system.

On the down side, the Samsungs will never look as cool as the Crees with their pinned heatsinks.
 
Rider509

Rider509

Well-Known Member
tomate said:
The F-Series Gen3 is even more cost effective.
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The F series uses the less powerful LM561B+ LED chip, but is still a good performer. Samsung announced the new Q Series in late August but I couldn't find a retailer that carries them yet, so H Series it is.
 
nfhiggs

nfhiggs

Well-Known Member
Rider509

Rider509

Well-Known Member
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H

Havetheygotagrowon

Member
LED strips seem like a great idea! I'm curious how you would attach them to a heat sink, and to help me compare and get my head around the numbers. How many watts would you need to run to have the equivalent light output to say a Mars 600w (250-260 actual watt)?
 
nfhiggs

nfhiggs

Well-Known Member
Havetheygotagrowon said:
LED strips seem like a great idea! I'm curious how you would attach them to a heat sink, and to help me compare and get my head around the numbers. How many watts would you need to run to have the equivalent light output to say a Mars 600w (250-260 actual watt)?
Click to expand...
I just laid down a thin layer of arctic silver thermal adhesive on the back of the strip and stuck it to a 3/4 inch aluminum channel. When I ran out of the Adhesive, I resorted to leftover AS5 thermal Paste, and used a dab of RTV in each mounting hole to keep it stuck to the channel.
 
nfhiggs

nfhiggs

Well-Known Member
nfhiggs said:
I just laid down a thin layer of arctic silver thermal adhesive on the back of the strip and stuck it to a 3/4 inch aluminum channel. When I ran out of the Adhesive, I resorted to leftover AS5 thermal Paste, and used a dab of RTV in each mounting hole to keep it stuck to the channel.
Click to expand...
As for the Mars comparison, with the Samsung F-series, you'd probably only need about 150-180W, certainly no more than 200W. I'm killing it in 2x4 space with 200W of cheaper Samsung Acuity strips.
 
Rider509

Rider509

Well-Known Member
I was looking at the "100W 44" monsters", the Samsung SI-B8RZ91B20WW. With a Vf of 46V and a nominal drive current of 2260mA, up to a max of 3600mA, I'm wondering how best to drive them. I have a couple of spare 320H-C2100B drivers so I could fit three of them on each within the constant current range but they'd be under-driven at 2100mA. They'd run cool and the efficacy would be high, so not a bad combination. I'm curious, nfhiggs, what your thoughts are on driving those beasts.
 
nfhiggs

nfhiggs

Well-Known Member
Rider509 said:
I was looking at the "100W 44" monsters", the Samsung SI-B8RZ91B20WW. With a Vf of 46V and a nominal drive current of 2260mA, up to a max of 3600mA, I'm wondering how best to drive them. I have a couple of spare 320H-C2100B drivers so I could fit three of them on each within the constant current range but they'd be under-driven at 2100mA. They'd run cool and the efficacy would be high, so not a bad combination. I'm curious, nfhiggs, what your thoughts are on driving those beasts.
Click to expand...
I think that would be a good current to run them at. When I get my hands on some I plan to put them on 2.079" heatsinks from heatsinkUSA, and run them at 75W each.
 
nc208

nc208

Well-Known Member
Rider509 said:
I was looking at the "100W 44" monsters", the Samsung SI-B8RZ91B20WW. With a Vf of 46V and a nominal drive current of 2260mA, up to a max of 3600mA, I'm wondering how best to drive them. I have a couple of spare 320H-C2100B drivers so I could fit three of them on each within the constant current range but they'd be under-driven at 2100mA. They'd run cool and the efficacy would be high, so not a bad combination. I'm curious, nfhiggs, what your thoughts are on driving those beasts.
Click to expand...
Hi Rider509, I run my diodes at the same strength of 116.6667 ma per diode and it puts out a ton of light, I have them attached to 1.5" 1/8" aluminum u channel and they get pretty hot at 100%, If I run them at 50% power the passive cooling works so I added some fans to provide more cooling and the light temp stays around 25 degrees when running at full power with fans.

for attaching to heatsink I used Artic Silver thermal paste and nylon screws and bolts size m3.
 
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Rider509

Rider509

Well-Known Member
This is the test data for the 44" HB22D and 22" F564B Samsung led strips as compared to a CXB3590 four cob system. At present I'm running 16 CXB3590 cobs in a 4x4 tent on 4 320H-C2100B drivers for a total potential of 1050 PAR watts pulling 1160 watts at the wall.
Costs are in USD and are exclusive of shipping, taxes, and frame/finishing components. For reference, I bought 32' of 3/4"x3/4"x 1/8" aluminum u-channel for $32USD at a local metal yard. I'll let you draw your own conclusions here.
PAR testing results will be posted here in a day or two.

thermo_electrical_test.jpg


Keep in mind that the testing on the Samsung HB22D strips are 5000K, not 3500K. Maybe someone whose brain isn't fried can extrapolate those numbers to expected outputs with 3500K strips.

PAR output testing results will follow in a day or two.
 
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dbrn32

Active Member
Rider509 said:
This is the test data for the 44" HB22D and 22" F564B Samsung led strips as compared to a CXB3590 four cob system. At present I'm running 16 CXB3590 cobs in a 4x4 tent on 4 320H-C2100B drivers for a total potential of 1050 PAR watts pulling 1160 watts at the wall.
Costs are in USD and are exclusive of shipping, taxes, and frame/finishing components. For reference, I bought 32' of 3/4"x3/4"x 1/8" aluminum u-channel for $32USD at a local metal yard. I'll let you draw your own conclusions here.
PAR testing results will be posted here in a day or two.

View attachment 4027479


Keep in mind that the testing on the Samsung HB22D strips are 5000K, not 3500K. Maybe someone whose brain isn't fried can extrapolate those numbers to expected outputs with 3500K strips.

PAR output testing results will follow in a day or two.
Click to expand...
I think you may be confused about par watts. I don't really understand your chart either, you are showing what you could dim them to?
 
Rider509

Rider509

Well-Known Member
I used PAR watts only to differentiate the wattage calculated from the V and A measured at the light from the wattage pulled from the wall, so yes, it's not correct usage. The results are at full output for each driver and then at uniform dimming points. I was curious about the temp variations at different dimming levels.

The chart is test data to compare the led strips to my existing 3590s, and as there are others that are looking at or using the Samsung led strips I thought it might be helpful, especially to those that are familiar with the CXB3590s.

edit: I see that I missed the data at the 1750mA setting on the second group
 
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dbrn32

Active Member
Rider509 said:
I used PAR watts only to differentiate the wattage calculated from the V and A measured at the light from the wattage pulled from the wall, so yes, it's not correct usage. The results are at full output for each driver and then at uniform dimming points. I was curious about the temp variations at different dimming levels.

The chart is test data to compare the led strips to my existing 3590s, and as there are others that are looking at or using the Samsung led strips I thought it might be helpful, especially to those that are familiar with the CXB3590s.

edit: I see that I missed the data at the 1750mA setting on the second group
Click to expand...

I got you. It looked like you were implying they were nearly 100% efficient is all.

I was a little confused on the chart because you didn't list at 2100ma(full output).
 
StonerCol

StonerCol

Well-Known Member
@Rider509 Thanks for starting this thread dude, I'm in! :)
I am also in the process of designing my light fixture for my flowering space using the Samsung strips. I'm leaning towards the F Series but just not sure which of the 44" beasts to use, the single or double diode config. I'm not sure in a 4x2 if the double diode FB24B will kick out too much heat. I'm not sure even how many to use. I did think of using a couple of the FB24B's horizontally and maybe 4 of the 22" ones hanging vertically for even better penetration. Any thoughts?
Cheers dude....and the others chipping in, it's a really useful thread :)

:peace: :bigjoint:(:
 
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