My DIY 4xQB120 Flowering Light

Humple

Well-Known Member
Not to put any pressure on him, but LED Gardener did hint at the possibility of setting up a few QB120s in a 4x4 to check the numbers. Not sure how many boards he was thinking of using though.
 
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ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Not to put any pressure on him, but LED Gardener did hint at the possibility of setting up a few QB120s in a 4x4 to check the numbers. Not sure how many boards he was thinking of using though.
After seeing his videos on over driving them, I'm guessing he'll just run one- at 600W!

LMAO!

@ledgardener you know I'm just kidding, but it's funny as shit that you can't seem to burn a board for love nor money!
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Hey, thanks, man! That sounds doable. Any idea on the accuracy difference between a genuine PAR meter and this calculation using the lux meter?
Accuracy should be within 10%.
On most images I've seen, where lux and PAR values were compared, the result in μMol/s was always above the converted values. Partially, the factor was up to 0.017 μmol / lux... - probably because it was measured in tents!? So you can calculate an additional 5-10% on the conversion results, then it should be even more accurate.

In this table, look at the last column, klx: μmol / s / m², where you will find values for warm, neutral and coolwhite LEDs, as well as halogen and others. Most white LED's are within 13-16μMol/klx!
Unfortunately, no COB's, but since the conversion factor is more determined by the used phosphor layer in this case, hence it is transferable to COB's.
With increasing efficiency the factor also improve and these tables are already a
few years old ...
So, yes! The values are quite accurate ... within 10%!

PAR numbers from different light sources.png
 
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ledgardener

Well-Known Member
After seeing his videos on over driving them, I'm guessing he'll just run one- at 600W!

LMAO!

@ledgardener you know I'm just kidding, but it's funny as shit that you can't seem to burn a board for love nor money!
I know it! I’m still trying to figure out what I can do to get more power. When I’m ready to throw in the towel, I’m just going to run it with no heat sink and literally cook the thing I guess. I’d like to kill it fair and square though...
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
I know it! I’m still trying to figure out what I can do to get more power. When I’m ready to throw in the towel, I’m just going to run it with no heat sink and literally cook the thing I guess. I’d like to kill it fair and square though...
This is a testimony to both the robustness of the board and your perseverance.

Or, you could see how far you get through a grow while running it at 600W LOL
 

VegasWinner

Well-Known Member
I know it! I’m still trying to figure out what I can do to get more power. When I’m ready to throw in the towel, I’m just going to run it with no heat sink and literally cook the thing I guess. I’d like to kill it fair and square though...
Why not just take a hammer to the diodes, that would be much easier, I would imagine. Join the destroy a light club with your favorite hammer and a trash bin.lol

MoFlow did not have that much of a problem as you seem to be having cooking a QB. Their QB just started going blank. Maybe you are going about it wrong. Maybe you should ask them what they did to blow a row of diodes.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Why not just take a hammer to the diodes, that would be much easier, I would imagine. Join the destroy a light club with your favorite hammer and a trash bin.lol

MoFlow did not have that much of a problem as you seem to be having cooking a QB. Their QB just started going blank. Maybe you are going about it wrong. Maybe you should ask them what they did to blow a row of diodes.
Because testing to failure is a legitimate and valid thing.

And blowing shit up is fun!
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Seems like it does not take near what you're tossing at it. Moflow had no problems with a failure.
Not fun if you are paying for it out of your pocket.
@ledgardener is testing one Quantum Board, it's not exactly a fortune at risk.

So far it's taken 600W, some 4 times the rated maximum- and it hasn't cooked yet. That fairly screams 'robust design'.

If you want to take potshots, then let's see you put one of your boards up for such testing?
 

ChaosHunter

Well-Known Member
There is only one original HLG Quantum. For those that may not know the HLG boys have been doing the ground game as well. They do go to conventions. grow shows showing off there lights and products. They have spent a lot of money in testing bringing this to market not to mention they could have just fabricated a boxed turn key light with the tech. My light would have been closer to $1k vs $200
 

VegasWinner

Well-Known Member
I know exactly who you are. And anyone can see what you're doing; the attempt to shape what others think of you is only your arrogance talking.

Put up or shut up.
You don't know who I am and you dont know what I am doing.

I noticed the smaller qbs thread, observed and enjoyed, thought they are nice commented as such you changed subject to destructive testing I commented on that too humorously.

But you assumed otherwise based on who you are not who I am. You don't know me.
Now you know what I know, anything else you are just making up.

I like everyone's board designs I comment in that fashion. No board better or worse just different.

You got a problem with different now too?
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
@ttystikk & @VegasWinner You two need a timeout. Stop battering other people's threads please!

I really wanted to see the progress in this thread, and I come find this childish behaviour. Damn guys, grow up!
I've got my reasons for disliking him intensely, a whole email conversation's worth. I don't trust his character or his intentions. So maybe you don't have the whole story. Fair enough?
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
PCB design seems pretty good on the QB's, which is probably the main reason why this boards are so durable.
Other boards will only perform similar with the same or better PCB design. If savings were made at this point, this directly affects the durability.
Distance between the diodes, thickness of copper tracks and the total amount of copper play a big role here.
There is a reason why there be a few months between planning and manufacturing if you want to build a perfect board. Just putting a few rows next to each other on an alu-sheet is not enough to create a really good product.
These QB120 seems to have an even better heat management because of the diodes to area ratio.
 

CoB_nUt

Well-Known Member
Not to put any pressure on him, but LED Gardener did hint at the possibility of setting up a few QB120s in a 4x4 to check the numbers. Not sure how many boards he was thinking of using though.
I'd like to know this as well. I just purchased 8 qb120's for my 4x4. Haven't settled on the driver yet. either the 240-2100 or the 320-2100.
 

CoB_nUt

Well-Known Member
@Humple. Just scored 2 4 packs of the qb120's. Waiting on my drivers now (240-2100x2).
If you were building two qb120 fixtures for a 4'x4' tent, would you do anything different design and or build-wise?

For a 4x4 with 8 qb120's what size would you make the frame?
How would you space them? (Space the qb themselves in the frame ,as well as the two frames holding each set of qb's.)
 

Humple

Well-Known Member
@Humple. Just scored 2 4 packs of the qb120's. Waiting on my drivers now (240-2100x2).
If you were building two qb120 fixtures for a 4'x4' tent, would you do anything different design and or build-wise?

For a 4x4 with 8 qb120's what size would you make the frame?
How would you space them? (Space the qb themselves in the frame ,as well as the two frames holding each set of qb's.)
Honestly, I would take some time with it and map it out with a cheap lux meter. If I had to give an answer on the spot, my inclination would be two boards in the center and three on each side, as close to equidistant as possible, but it's entirely possible that there's a better layout. Would it be feasible for you to temporarily hang the boards individually, using string or wire? Then you could adjust them for optimum uniformity and design the frame dimensions according to that configuration.

Sorry, not much help, I know!
 

CoB_nUt

Well-Known Member
I like your temporary hang suggestion. I'll go that route. Design the frame around it. Thanks.
About mapping it out with a cheap lux meter, any brand or 1 in particular you advise?
 
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