Having an issue with my chiller not turning off.

Jypsy Dog

Well-Known Member
That pic is from a lexus etc Sensor repair... I've read that manual 19 times man. that's not even my chiller. mine is this one.
Dude... To me that was just an illustration. You Ohm them out all the same way. It's just a BASIC TEST. Post a pic of the plug end off yours. If that can't tell the brain it's happy. It won't shut off, or in some cases turn on.
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
The sensor plug is a very small thin red and white that goes Into a sleeve. it connects right onto the pcb. the wires you're seeing say hot, cool, com, and acn.
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Thermocouple probe is plugged in to CN1. You can see the small red and white wires next to the pic with the relay which is the first one. If you look at the last pic on that post, you can see the thermocouple wire on the very left of the other 4. Its grey sheathing. And again man, that manual is NOT for my chiller. so stop pulling stuff from it. I provided the correct manual earlier post.
 
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Jypsy Dog

Well-Known Member
Thermocouple probe is plugged in to CN1. You can see the small red and white wires next to the pic with the relay which is the first one. If you look at the last pic on that post, you can see the thermocouple wire on the very left of the other 4. Its grey sheathing. And again man, that manual is NOT for my chiller. so stop pulling stuff from it. I provided the correct manual earlier post.
LAST TIME!!! Don't care what manual I show! THEY ALL WORK ON THE SAME PRINCIPLE. Good Luck, I'm done. You show you have NO refrige understanding. Do you have to see THE MANUAL ON YOUR CAR to understand how to check the tire pressure???? I tried you not getting it. GOOD BYE.
 
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Jypsy Dog

Well-Known Member
You thought the transformer is a relay..... Keep screwin with it. You don't think the sensor that sits in the water, would be the one thing to test??? How do you think the "Brain box" knows when the water is at the set temp?????????
 
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ttystikk

Well-Known Member
You thought the transformer is a relay..... Keep screwin with it. You don't think the sensor that sits in the water, would be the one thing to test??? How do you think the "Brain box" knows when the water is at the set temp?????????
The nice thing about a small portable unit is that he can take it out of his house and go get it tested and fixed.

My unit is bigger; it chills water in a separate circuit, which then cools RDWC via cold coil and water cooled air handlers that AC and dehuey simultaneously. Much more efficient.

Heat rejected from cold side is put into another water circuit, this one is hot. This circuit provides domestic heat and hot water.

Think of it as a dual circuit heat pump- cuz it is!
 

Jypsy Dog

Well-Known Member
The nice thing about a small portable unit is that he can take it out of his house and go get it tested and fixed.

My unit is bigger; it chills water in a separate circuit, which then cools RDWC via cold coil and water cooled air handlers that AC and dehuey simultaneously. Much more efficient.

Heat rejected from cold side is put into another water circuit, this one is hot. This circuit provides domestic heat and hot water.

Think of it as a dual circuit heat pump- cuz it is!
He's playing cheap. First thing I said was if you don't know, don't do. And he doesn't.
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
He's playing cheap. First thing I said was if you don't know, don't do. And he doesn't.
I don't know how to test the probe man. I'd like to. and again, my temp is always displayed correct on the front of the machine. even though it's set to say 68, it goes down to 60 and eve reads it's 60. it's still probably the thermocouple?
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
You thought the transformer is a relay..... Keep screwin with it. You don't think the sensor that sits in the water, would be the one thing to test??? How do you think the "Brain box" knows when the water is at the set temp?????????
You're telling me the black box that says HKE on it IS NOT the relay? there's 2 of them.
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
The nice thing about a small portable unit is that he can take it out of his house and go get it tested and fixed.

My unit is bigger; it chills water in a separate circuit, which then cools RDWC via cold coil and water cooled air handlers that AC and dehuey simultaneously. Much more efficient.

Heat rejected from cold side is put into another water circuit, this one is hot. This circuit provides domestic heat and hot water.

Think of it as a dual circuit heat pump- cuz it is!
Where would I take this in to exactly?
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Plus all the 8x60mm temperature sensor probes that I can find on eBay have a ground wire as well. If I were to order a new one would I just hook up the hot and neutral lines only, leaving the ground line un wired/unconnected to anything and it would still work?
 
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Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
LAST TIME!!! Don't care what manual I show! THEY ALL WORK ON THE SAME PRINCIPLE. Good Luck, I'm done. You show you have NO refrige understanding. Do you have to see THE MANUAL ON YOUR CAR to understand how to check the tire pressure???? I tried you not getting it. GOOD BYE.
I’m not trying to piss you off man. Just don’t really know anything about these really....
 

dstroy

Well-Known Member
I don't know how to test the probe man. I'd like to. and again, my temp is always displayed correct on the front of the machine. even though it's set to say 68, it goes down to 60 and eve reads it's 60. it's still probably the thermocouple?
Yeah, no. If the temperature displayed on the unit is correct and you’ve verified the reading with a separate thermometer then it is not the temperature probe.

It’s not called “ohming out”, it’s called a continuity test, or sometimes ringing out, but ringing out is reserved for long cable runs usually, or that thing audio engineers do to prevent feedback. Checking for resistance is related to a continuity test.

Anyways, it’s easy enough to check if the relay is sticking on, all you do is check to see if the coil is deenergized when the set point has been reached, and you think the control signal should be low ie if the desired temp has been reached the coil for the relay should not be receiving power anymore. If it’s deenergized and the contacts are still closed then the relay is sticking closed. It is also a very easy replacement, and cheap if that’s the case. The other thing that could be wrong is that the little transistor, which is the “switch” for the relay might have failed, which is also easy to test for, or the resistor that pulls the gate (transistor gate) low could be bad.

Worst case scenario is that the output pin on the micro controller is malfunctioning. Also easy to check for if you follow the trace back from the gate on that transistor. Should be “low” when the compressor should be off.
 
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