Having an issue with my chiller not turning off.
- Thread starter Airwalker16
- Start date
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
Oh here we go actually... lol
https://www.google.com/search?q=hrs4h-s-dc12v&rlz=1C9BKJA_enUS762US762&hl=en-US&prmd=sivn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiXy6umva3XAhWCxYMKHaXDBOYQ_AUIEygC&biw=1024&bih=653&dpr=2#imgrc=5kxCvpoCnHijiM:
Ok so I know where to get them. Now how do I test em?!?
https://www.google.com/search?q=hrs4h-s-dc12v&rlz=1C9BKJA_enUS762US762&hl=en-US&prmd=sivn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiXy6umva3XAhWCxYMKHaXDBOYQ_AUIEygC&biw=1024&bih=653&dpr=2#imgrc=5kxCvpoCnHijiM:
Ok so I know where to get them. Now how do I test em?!?
dstroy
Well-Known Member
You understand that this can be dangerous, and doing the wrong thing can injure or kill you correct?
DO NOT touch the part that I put the circle with the X in it while this thing is powered up, it's hot aka live. Unless they're switching the neutral which would be weird. Also, you see the other traces that look like the one I put the circle around? Don't touch those either.
Now all you need to do is find a ground, NOT the AC common, that is NOT ground even though it's referred to as ground. You need to find the DC circuit ground which is labeled on the front by J9 (jumper).
You can test all four points with arrows, but the heater relay should only come on when you are below the setpoint. And the cool relay should be off when you are at the setpoint or below.
Be CAREFUL ok. Respect the electricity.
Edit: I mean, you CAN test all four points that I put arrows on, but really you only need to test one per relay, but those two pins are the coil pins for each relay.
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
So where do I put the red pointer on the multimeter at to ground it? the black pointer goes to those spots? what am i looking for it to be reading?
dstroy
Well-Known Member
the red lead goes to one of those points, and the black lead goes to ground. You are testing for DC voltage. When you reach the temperature setpoint, if the voltage stays there then it's not a problem with the relay. If the voltage goes away, and the compressor stays on then the relay is the likely culprit and needs to be replaced.
he's doing what you need to do, but instead of a battery you are measuring the positive, and ground of a DC circuit. same thing really.
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
So the black lead goes to that little strip of wire where it says j9 (gnd) with an arrow?
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
So I need to set the leads and get a reading when its say 69* and say is set temp is 68, once it's chilled to that point, see of its still on, if the fanz still blowing hot air. if the reading is gone, it's the relay? what about once the heater light(led2/red) comes on? the fan still runs.do I just need to check it basically once it's reading 67*, one degree below set point ?
dstroy
Well-Known Member
The heater relay is one of those two relays, don’t know which one. Make sure to check them both.
The easiest way would be to set it up to chill one bucket with a small volume of water, if the voltage is still there across the relay but the temperature is below the set point then it is not the relay.
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
the
Okay, so touch black to the wire on J9 & the other on both relays touching one of the two poles on the side you indicated, right ?
dstroy
Well-Known Member
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
The heater relay is working correctly though. I'm trying to find out if the OTHER one is sticking right ?
dstroy
Well-Known Member
Yeah, but since you don’t know which is which you need to test both, just find the one that has power while the compressor is on and then go from there.
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
AS it is chilling, and the temperature is slowly dropping the only Pole that is NOT receiving power is the furthest left in the picture with your circles. The "FIRST POLE" , All getting just under 13v on the 20V setting. chiller light is on solidly. looks good so far.
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Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
Okay so now that we have hit my set temperature of 68, all four poles are receiving around 13 volts. The heater light has not come on yet but the chilling light has turned off. But I will test and show what is happening once it has turned on. There is still hot air blowing out of the back.
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
It has dropped to 67 now but the external heater LED light hasn't come on yet. There is still warm air being blown out the back. So I'm assuming that means the compressor is still on. All four poles are still receiving 13.48 volts.
honestly at this point, the power light should still be on solid, (which it is) but the machine should basically come to a halt and completely stop shaking, making noise, and blowing air out the back. That's not happening.
honestly at this point, the power light should still be on solid, (which it is) but the machine should basically come to a halt and completely stop shaking, making noise, and blowing air out the back. That's not happening.
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
I think I've established that the relay nearest the temp sensor connection is the heater? poles 1&2?
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
So it has been about an hour and I have come back to of course the heater light on now. This is pretty weird but the first Pole is showing 12.5 volts. The second Poles showing 12.5 volts so the heater circuit is open on pole 3 which im thinking is the chiller circuit it is showing 0.00 and pole 4 is showing 12.5 volts. so the relay's ARE working ?
It's still shaking and blowing heat out the back.
It's still shaking and blowing heat out the back.
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Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
How the hels my temp 65* then? when it was 73 when I plugged it in a few hrs ago?
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Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
Ahaaaahahahaa I’d be extremely happy with a new active aqua. I’ve got a friend with one and it’s worked for years. Through every run.