Rider's first foray into LED strip lighting - Samsung H Series GEN3

Eph3m3raL

Eph3m3raL

Member
Rider509 said:
Well, if we call penetration the ability of the light to reach down under the canopy with sufficient energy to be beneficial, I think dispersed LEDs are a decisive winner over single point light sources. First, the inverse square law doesn't apply, as was corroborated by my and other's tests. Second, a dispersed uniform-intensity light source exhibits almost no shadows because light comes in obliquely from many directions. A good corollary would be a store with one big light in the middle or multiple smaller lights arrayed over the ceiling. The one factor missing in LEDs is the far reds that HPS has in abundance.
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What would the far reds be used for? I red a paper recently, think it was from the university of illinois. Can't remember off the top of my head. They stated that beyond 725nm(hoping I remember that right but I do know that 730+ was out of the range) is not beneficial in creating the emerson effect if that's what you're referring to. Flower initiators can be made pretty easily though. At $2 a LED from Stevesled.com then pick up the apc-35-700 for $11.
 
OLD MOTHER SATIVA

OLD MOTHER SATIVA

Well-Known Member
Rider509 said:
Well, if we call penetration the ability of the light to reach down under the canopy with sufficient energy to be beneficial, I think dispersed LEDs are a decisive winner over single point light sources. First, the inverse square law doesn't apply, as was corroborated by my and other's tests. Second, a dispersed uniform-intensity light source exhibits almost no shadows because light comes in obliquely from many directions. A good corollary would be a store with one big light in the middle or multiple smaller lights arrayed over the ceiling. The one factor missing in LEDs is the far reds that HPS has in abundance.
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yes thats what i mean by penetration.. one row of leds does not seem to have the oomph[technical term ]
of two rows or 8 rows..but conversely though "weak" spreads evenly over the canopy producing many more angles of light tohit the plants below..also one can get very close..


i make final conclusions based on real world hands on growing "tests"...
interesting about far reds..i have looked into extra led mods or getting them incorporated into my builds..
i am not sure how much difference they make

first test was..do my 6 x 22 " panels grow/flower well..

yes they do
 
Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
There is already enough far-red in warmwhite LED's. The far red from hps is more in the 800-900nm range and only makes the buds fluffier. You could use CRI90+ - CRI97 or some of the 1750°k meat chips to get more useful far-red in the lower 700nm range. Codeword: Emerson Effect
Indeed, it is the lack of infra-red/heat radiation which makes it the better grow light.
 
Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Eph3m3raL said:
That video is what got me looking into far red.
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If it's warm enough (25-28 ° C) then you do not need IR / 840nm. I am also not sure how much you will benefit from 660/730nm, but I think at best it would be a few percent. Instead of 15w 670nm and 8w 730nm, you could also add 23w warmwhite and compare both, I even believe that the whites would do better.
 
Sour Wreck

Sour Wreck

Well-Known Member
if i missed it, please forgive me, but what is the thickness of the u channels and where did you get them?

thanks, really like what you're doing...
 
D

Dave455

Well-Known Member
OLD MOTHER SATIVA said:
still waiting to see if multiple single samsung strips can deliver enough oomph to flower well..compared to panels

i just have not done that yet..but have made some custom strips and bars

.. have indeed acertained that the strips do well with veg and therycan get very close to the canopy because they are a not all

grouped tightly together..ie awesome coverage..dunno aboutView attachment 4039832 penetration..this pic just has them laid across the frame..
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Are those F strips ? What wattage - current going to run on ? color temp.. ?
 
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Dave455

Well-Known Member
Eph3m3raL said:
If you ran 3 strips in a 2x4 you would get 144 more diodes than 6 HLG 120 boards. I am planning to build a 3 strip for my mother plants using the HLG-240H-48A in parallel which will give me about 240W at 1667mA. You could use a different driver and get more power as well. The boards are tested at 2100mA I believe. HLG has a great product though if you are able to take the DIY route I believe these strips are a great option.
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Like the way strips spread out the light. Thought same by using possibly 6 hlg120 boards in
2x4 set up. Believe single strips more even coverage than double.
 
Stone_Free

Stone_Free

Well-Known Member
Hey Rider, a couple of questions if I may.....I cannot for the life of me decide whether I should run 2 FB24B's in series or parallel and so I'm not sure which driver is best? I know that 2 x 288 diodes works well in a 4x2 because it's been tested by a couple of growers and works fine, so I won't have a need to add more strips. Please help me decide! :)
My 2nd question is this: Is it a good idea to drill holes along the length of the aluminium angle to allow heat to dissipate? I'm thinking of brake discs on cars/motorbikes where this is done for that very reason. I know it's not quite the same thing but in my mind the theory is basically the same. I'm thinking to drill the holes on the horizontal part of the metal and lay the thermal tape over the top.
I'd appreciate your input please.
Thanks a lot!
:peace: :leaf:
 
Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Stone_Free said:
Hey Rider, a couple of questions if I may.....I cannot for the life of me decide whether I should run 2 FB24B's in series or parallel and so I'm not sure which driver is best? I know that 2 x 288 diodes works well in a 4x2 because it's been tested by a couple of growers and works fine, so I won't have a need to add more strips. Please help me decide! :)
My 2nd question is this: Is it a good idea to drill holes along the length of the aluminium angle to allow heat to dissipate? I'm thinking of brake discs on cars/motorbikes where this is done for that very reason. I know it's not quite the same thing but in my mind the theory is basically the same. I'm thinking to drill the holes on the horizontal part of the metal and lay the thermal tape over the top.
I'd appreciate your input please.
Thanks a lot!
:peace: :leaf:
Click to expand...

Okay, you did not ask me, but I still try to answer...
If you want to enlarge the surface area for better cooling, I recommend sand- or glassblasting or simply brushing with a wire brush. (Hope the terms are correct, language barrier)
Both would effectively increase the cooling surface. In brake discs, the holes serve several purposes, not just increasing the cooling. Anodizing is also an option, but not so easy. You let have to do that by a galvanizer, no idea what it would cost, but probably more than they are worth.
You could also glue a second, smaller profile inside the big one, that looks like this:
Screenshot_20171109-125424.png

This is probably the best way to increse their cooling capacity.

Whether you drive them in parallel or in series does not really matter as long as they get the same current. Parallel is safer because of the lower voltage, but CC drivers are 1% more efficient. I would always prefer the safer solution!
 

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