Droopy leaves? What to do

[jasonjsf]

under watering is just as bad as overwatering no n def tht i see id give them a water with clean water and water the soil 2 maybe 3 x's a week feed omce or twice a week i dont spray my plants at all so idk what to say there lol

Maybe I didn't explain properly. I would spray the soil like 2 times a day but not crazy much. Like the water would never seap out of the fabric pot. I have been doing that since the beginning and they were beautiful and strong but suddenly droopy. Would you suggest I water them real good 2-3x a week till the water starts seaping out? Thanks for the quick reply btw!

 

[andy s]

Maybe I didn't explain properly. I would spray the soil like 2 times a day but not crazy much. Like the water would never seap out of the fabric pot. I have been doing that since the beginning and they were beautiful and strong but suddenly droopy. Would you suggest I water them real good 2-3x a week till the water starts seaping out? Thanks for the quick reply btw!

their roots grew and need more water just got to the point to where theyre talkin to ya lol

 

[andy s]

also i dont water to run off but i make it feel heavy again, when it fills light i water or if they say theyre thirsty i water lol sometimes a spot in the medium will dry faster and cause it so a good watering will make them ladies happy

 

[ANC]

Sometimes you really need to dig deep to find the problems (its never the weed).
I don't trust blurple any further than I can throw it. (I sometimes call green blellow just to confuse people, cause I'm nuts)
That left aside I would want to use an IR thermometer and get leaf temps, air temp and humidity at the canopy level.
You are the sun and the air to these plants.
I see nutrient problems, but is deficiency or lockout and is a symptom, not cause.

While analyzing the problem I'd check the PPM of the water after mixing some of the soil with distilled water in a cup. Also the pH of the runoff to try and get an idea of the chemical situation. Also a temperature reading, but this is less important with soil.

You really shouldn't need to feed soil once it's going, maybe a small nitrogen and superphosphate amendment before starting and again a tiny bit of nitrogen (less than 100ppm) as you approach transition, as you don't want high nitrogen in flower. In flower they want a shitload of up to 250% more than at the start of P. By then the soil microbes are normally able to access and break down some less available forms of P, at teh start the superP whil provide this.
K should be at about 50% of what you started off with at flower time for increased resin. So some things you actually want used-up more than others.

For now, I'd work on populating that list of test parameters. It is going to determine what (controllable elements you need to focus on).

Some shortcuts that are not solutions but may get you there. is to remove the plant from the bag. shake as much of the soil off. Replant in plain topsoil, maybe dose with a bit of epsom salts.
Forget you are growing weed. Treat it like potplant. Maybe stick some of those fertilizer sticks in the soil and water her once a week if she is dryish. If soil (or coco) gets dry enough that the hyperbaric pressure is disrupted to the point that it doesn't just simply soak into, but want to run off over, fine roots die. cover the soil surface or plant some grass seed on it, they also help feed the soil and make it less hot.

 

[jasonjsf]

Some shortcuts that are not solutions but may get you there. is to remove the plant from the bag. shake as much of the soil off. Replant in plain topsoil, maybe dose with a bit of epsom salts.
Forget you are growing weed. Treat it like potplant. Maybe stick some of those fertilizer sticks in the soil and water her once a week if she is dryish. If soil (or coco) gets dry enough that the hyperbaric pressure is disrupted to the point that it doesn't just simply soak into, but want to run off over, fine roots die. cover the soil surface or plant some grass seed on it, they also help feed the soil and make it less hot.[/QUOTE]


OK thanks for the replies. For right now I watered them properly and then tomorrow I will go to the store to get some of the stuff you mentioned since I don't have it all. I would also assume that tomorrow I would need to see a difference if the problem was underwatering. Nevertheless , I'll follow your list! Thanks alot!

 

[ANC]

Deficiencies perk up in 3 days, toxicity takes a month.

 

[whitebb2727]

Maybe I didn't explain properly. I would spray the soil like 2 times a day but not crazy much. Like the water would never seap out of the fabric pot. I have been doing that since the beginning and they were beautiful and strong but suddenly droopy. Would you suggest I water them real good 2-3x a week till the water starts seaping out? Thanks for the quick reply btw!

That may be the problem. Water them real good several times. Soil can actually become hydrophobic. It won't take water. It can develop dry spots that become hydrophobic. Add a drop of soap to your water to break water tension.

Chronic under watering is hard on a plant.

 

[#woke]

Sometimes you really need to dig deep to find the problems (its never the weed).
I don't trust blurple any further than I can throw it. (I sometimes call green blellow just to confuse people, cause I'm nuts)
That left aside I would want to use an IR thermometer and get leaf temps, air temp and humidity at the canopy level.
You are the sun and the air to these plants.
I see nutrient problems, but is deficiency or lockout and is a symptom, not cause.

While analyzing the problem I'd check the PPM of the water after mixing some of the soil with distilled water in a cup. Also the pH of the runoff to try and get an idea of the chemical situation. Also a temperature reading, but this is less important with soil.

You really shouldn't need to feed soil once it's going, maybe a small nitrogen and superphosphate amendment before starting and again a tiny bit of nitrogen (less than 100ppm) as you approach transition, as you don't want high nitrogen in flower. In flower they want a shitload of up to 250% more than at the start of P. By then the soil microbes are normally able to access and break down some less available forms of P, at teh start the superP whil provide this.
K should be at about 50% of what you started off with at flower time for increased resin. So some things you actually want used-up more than others.

For now, I'd work on populating that list of test parameters. It is going to determine what (controllable elements you need to focus on).

Some shortcuts that are not solutions but may get you there. is to remove the plant from the bag. shake as much of the soil off. Replant in plain topsoil, maybe dose with a bit of epsom salts.
Forget you are growing weed. Treat it like potplant. Maybe stick some of those fertilizer sticks in the soil and water her once a week if she is dryish. If soil (or coco) gets dry enough that the hyperbaric pressure is disrupted to the point that it doesn't just simply soak into, but want to run off over, fine roots die. cover the soil surface or plant some grass seed on it, they also help feed the soil and make it less hot.

Remember nitrate nitrogen ,is different then blood meal nitrogen, protien nitrogen, feather nitrogen, fish hydrolysis,. Also 250% P- phosphorus to 50% K Potassium at times not the whole flower.

 

[#woke]

 

[ANC]

Yes, they are especially sensitive to K excess after the 10th week.
When producing for resin one would reduce K by 50% in flower.

 

[#woke]

Your said high P phosphorus and i am using mammoth P and that pic has 10 days left

 

[#woke]

Sometimes you really need to dig deep to find the problems (its never the weed).
I don't trust blurple any further than I can throw it. (I sometimes call green blellow just to confuse people, cause I'm nuts)
That left aside I would want to use an IR thermometer and get leaf temps, air temp and humidity at the canopy level.
You are the sun and the air to these plants.
I see nutrient problems, but is deficiency or lockout and is a symptom, not cause.

While analyzing the problem I'd check the PPM of the water after mixing some of the soil with distilled water in a cup. Also the pH of the runoff to try and get an idea of the chemical situation. Also a temperature reading, but this is less important with soil.

You really shouldn't need to feed soil once it's going, maybe a small nitrogen and superphosphate amendment before starting and again a tiny bit of nitrogen (less than 100ppm) as you approach transition, as you don't want high nitrogen in flower. In flower they want a shitload of up to 250% more than at the start of P. By then the soil microbes are normally able to access and break down some less available forms of P, at teh start the superP whil provide this.
K should be at about 50% of what you started off with at flower time for increased resin. So some things you actually want used-up more than others.

For now, I'd work on populating that list of test parameters. It is going to determine what (controllable elements you need to focus on).

Some shortcuts that are not solutions but may get you there. is to remove the plant from the bag. shake as much of the soil off. Replant in plain topsoil, maybe dose with a bit of epsom salts.
Forget you are growing weed. Treat it like potplant. Maybe stick some of those fertilizer sticks in the soil and water her once a week if she is dryish. If soil (or coco) gets dry enough that the hyperbaric pressure is disrupted to the point that it doesn't just simply soak into, but want to run off over, fine roots die. cover the soil surface or plant some grass seed on it, they also help feed the soil and make it less hot.

If you ever dry pot it in Coco you can use the yucca or a surfactant and it will re soak up that water

 

[#woke]

Maybe I didn't explain properly. I would spray the soil like 2 times a day but not crazy much. Like the water would never seap out of the fabric pot. I have been doing that since the beginning and they were beautiful and strong but suddenly droopy. Would you suggest I water them real good 2-3x a week till the water starts seaping out? Thanks for the quick reply btw!

Azamax can root drench and is OMRI listed.

 

[#woke]

def not a root bound issue, not watered enough shows similar signs but its being overwatered and it cant breathe

Andy is right if roots dont have oxygen they dont breathe most overwater because most overwork the few plants they have.

 

[#woke]

idk how i was able to grow in less than that then, must have been a couple years of some good luck. there is always ideal ranges and a rule of thumb with growin marijuana but it is such a versatile plant it can adjust to so many climates its unreal. so to say it has to have this or that just doesnt apply to me in my garden i guess.

Andy i wanted to show a part of my room. Veg looks yellow lights were off 1 1/2 days flipping it. Everthing is 6x6x6 rockwool.

 

[andy s]

Your said high P phosphorus and i am using mammoth P and that pic has 10 days left

mammoth p isnt p or is that nott what you meant

 

[andy s]

Andy i wanted to show a part of my room. Veg looks yellow lights were off 1 1/2 days flipping it. Everthing is 6x6x6 rockwool.

these look great man, ive wondered if i should make a switch from soil, i know i could have way better outcomes lol wht strain?

 

[#woke]

i get most of my pots at the local garden centers, if you look around while your walking around, you can usually spot piles of used nursery pots. if you take a big handful up to the counter, they'll usually sell them pretty cheap, like 4 for a dollar cheap.
i use ten gallon totes, like this
View attachment 4051625
hose up, holds water, hose down to drain.
i know you don't have room for these, but i'm just trying to illustrate that you can use almost anything light and water tight as a pot.

mammoth p isnt p or is that nott what you meant

Not what i meant mammoth P is a beneficial bacteria the are 4 symbiotic species.

 

[#woke]

these look great man, ive wondered if i should make a switch from soil, i know i could have way better outcomes lol wht strain?

these look great man, ive wondered if i should make a switch from soil, i know i could have way better outcomes lol wht strain?

GG#4 in pic.
But ,SFV OG the 70 day cut.1
I ordered liberty haze, and a pineapple chunk strains from barney's farm. Iv also done just sour dubb, and alien OG It's really hard to push a strain to its genetic potential when you have a multi strain garden Like SFV is finnicky and likes about 15 to 1700 ppm when it finishes But GG#4 Can handle up to 2200 ppm

these look great man, ive wondered if i should make a switch from soil, i know i could have way better outcomes lol wht strain?

 

[andy s]

GG#4 in pic.
But ,SFV OG the 70 day cut.1
I ordered liberty haze, and a pineapple chunk strains from barney's farm. Iv also done just sour dubb, and alien OG It's really hard to push a strain to its genetic potential when you have a multi strain garden Like SFV is finnicky and likes about 15 to 1700 ppm when it finishes But GG#4 Can handle up to 2200 ppm

ya i currently have the same issue. i have a few wonder womans, a couple sour purple og's, a couple purple cadillac, and an unknown i cant remember what the seed was lol. i wish i had some new genetics though been runnin the ww and sour for like 5 years now, just introduced the other 2. had a platinum gsc but it died on me during the move, took a clone so i have one of it at least maybe 2 if my other rooted it looks good still perky and bouncy lol so still kickin