ttystikk
Well-Known Member
Yes, and there are threads about them.I know this thread is about optics mainly but has anyone ever used citizen or luminous cobs before?
Yes, and there are threads about them.I know this thread is about optics mainly but has anyone ever used citizen or luminous cobs before?
YPF is the PAR measurement corrrected for the McCree RQE chart. That indeed is a much better metric than the usual PPF since it corrects the wavelengths according to how efficiently plants use that wavelength on average. Where PPF counts all wavelengths between 400 an 700Nm at 100%. YPF does the full width of the McCree chart (ie 350 till 750Nm or something) and counts each wavelenght according to value of the McCree curve.it is referred to as YPF
I have reflectors on the ends of the bars where I keep the tent open solely for that purpose. Heat removal. The other cobs are bare. I want to wrangle in the light escaping out of the tent's open doors.Reflectors and lenses def have their purpose, but just not in my case.
can imagine reflectors for open areas next to a walkway, or if tent is open to let heat out etc...
Filters do just that; remove light. Therefore not a good idea. Diffusion screens scatter photons. For my money, I want them focused on the target! If you need to cover a larger area, use more chips, as better light distribution is always more efficient. So to summarize; lenses good, filters bad.So i have a weird question for all of you, is there any camera filter that would be beneficial for us to use at the end of our reflectors? And I guess more importantly would they even work? I ask because I'm tinkering with a Vero18 project and the Angelina reflectors have a 81mm diameter and there are tons of 82mm camera filters for cheap.
I was thinking about using a diffusion lens to try to even out the intensity. If they work maybe test out different filters and the effects. I was just now thinking about using red and blue filters for 4000k lights depending on stage of growth, or playing around with polarizing filters.
Have any of you ever thought of this or know any more about this? Thanks
Thanx for your answer!In short, because of light stress which is also known as bleaching.
Mostly a hot spot is created in the middle and you recognize it as unexpected whitening on the leaves or buds! It often looks like a N or Mg deficit.
At first, the leaves become lighter, then almost yellow, and at last they continue to bleach and dry.
Flowers are sometimes just get white tips.
Well, you need probably >1000μmol/s(without add. CO²} to cause bleaching. With CO² up-to 1500μMol/s are possible.Thanx for your answer!
will all leaves get yellow or just those under spot light?
And what about if my COBs photones will be not so much to cause bleaching even in case of hot spots?
I' ve an hotspot with my five 1212 mount as a 50cm "cross" without reflector and so hotspot at least in the central portion and didn' t notice anything light that.
Regards!!!
At what age?i have successfully run cree 3590's @50 w each with no lens /reflectors.close as 6" away with air movement
no problems
thats on a 4ft plant
ymmv
No comparision threads as far as I know. Also it's hard to say what going on without pics.@Randomblame they're in autopots (bottom fed). I doubt it's because of pots or heat/humidity. Leaves are little upwards and when is approaching "lights out" they're droppy. DLI too high? I doubt! But this is strange as they're taking whole 80x80cm space (I SCROG 2 plants). They're healthy and nice.
Do you have maybe any data for previous question about distance to plants? I am not active on this forum too much, I only follow this LED section here. I would really want to see the same clone, both let's say under 200W light, but one at 30cm distance, other at 60+cm. Other factors the same.