Bridgelux EB Strips GEN 2

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Hello
I read that if you multiply your radiant watts by 4.66 and then divide the resulting number by the area of your plant (in square meters) , you get a rough estimate of your PPFD.
Now the problem is that to calculate the radiant watts I need to kmow if the led is 50%, or 45%, or 60% efficient. I have been reding a lot and analyzing data sheets but can find a way to calculate radiant watts and heat watts. Can you (or anyone reading this) help me with this?
Also, how far does the light need to be from the plants for this formula (radiant watts * 4.66 / m^2 ) to work? 18 inches?
Thanks.
Hi Vehlor!
You need more than a simple multiplier to calculate the radiant power, at least you need some lux readings to use a multiplier. But there are other ways...
Either you need LER and QER values of the LED* you want to calculate or you use a tool like the one below. Here you only have to enter the total lumen/lux output of the fixture, the spectrum in °k/color in nm, distance and length(if it's not a point source) and you get a fairly accurate calculation of the expected radiation values.

http://dev.edman007.com/~edman007/pub/par-dli-cal.html

*) there is a thread created by @alesh if I remember correctly. It's about how to calculate these values by only using the datasheet.
 
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Randomblame

Well-Known Member
If you have a lux meter you can estimate ppfd with a multiplier. And there is another thread about this topic based on the paper below. For a CXB3590 in 3500°/CRI80 for example the multiplier was 0,01415, so when you read 30.000lx on a given spot and apply the multiplicator you get ~425μMol/s at that point.

conversion factors.png
 

Vehlor

Member
Hi Vehlor!
You need more than a simple multiplier to calculate the radiant power, at least you need some lux readings to use a multiplier. But there are other ways...
Either you need LER and QER values of the LED* you want to calculate or you use a tool like the one below. Here you only have to enter the total lumen/lux output of the fixture, the spectrum in °k/color in nm, distance and length(if it's not a point source) and you get a fairly accurate calculation of the expected radiation values.

http://dev.edman007.com/~edman007/pub/par-dli-cal.htmlhtml

*) there is a thread created by @alesh if I remember correctly. It's about how to calculate these values by only using the datasheet.

Thank you!
 

Vehlor

Member
I just realized that bridgelux doesn't mention in the datasheet that these don't need a heatsink like they did for gen 1. Do these need a heatsink?
 

Humple

Well-Known Member
Hi Vehlor!
You need more than a simple multiplier to calculate the radiant power, at least you need some lux readings to use a multiplier. But there are other ways...
Either you need LER and QER values of the LED* you want to calculate or you use a tool like the one below. Here you only have to enter the total lumen/lux output of the fixture, the spectrum in °k/color in nm, distance and length(if it's not a point source) and you get a fairly accurate calculation of the expected radiation values.

http://dev.edman007.com/~edman007/pub/par-dli-cal.html

*) there is a thread created by @alesh if I remember correctly. It's about how to calculate these values by only using the datasheet.
Your link isn't working for me, bro.
 

Serva

Well-Known Member
I just realized that bridgelux doesn't mention in the datasheet that these don't need a heatsink like they did for gen 1. Do these need a heatsink?
I can tell you in 1-2 weeks ;)

Personally I think it would be strange... way more diods, less current, less voltage. Power is spreaded even better over the whole surface. But they could have lowered the copper in the platine?!
 

Serva

Well-Known Member
Yeah but no 3k, also seems priced at a premium.
What do you mean? I payed less for gen2 than for gen1. Gen1 a year ago = 3,80€, gen2 now 3,60€. Way cheaper than any Samsung strips, like 1/3 - 1/2 of their price, when I compared them...

And personally I am happy, that they got the 3500+5000, 3000+5700 would have also been ok for me. But I really like the spec of my cmh (4250), and thats what I will achieve with these strips mixing them equally! Great score for me ;) I will get an uvb tube, and some meat or mono cobs, for flower boost, but that is only for like 2-3 weeks of a 8-10 weeks growing circle + veg time. I am using 3000+5700 (2:1 -> 3900) with great results atm.
 
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ANC

Well-Known Member
What I mean at a premium, is that it costs more than even buying the equivalent to cover the same area in quantum boards.
Heck, a V22 will do 181lm/W while pushing 35W for only $13.60 per chip.

How many of these would you use to cover say a 4x4 or 5x5?
 

Serva

Well-Known Member
What I mean at a premium, is that it costs more than even buying the equivalent to cover the same area in quantum boards.
Heck, a V22 will do 181lm/W while pushing 35W for only $13.60 per chip.

How many of these would you use to cover say a 4x4 or 5x5?
But the spreading is way better! Personally I see a BIG advantage in the uniformity, not in the efficiency. If I would know a proper pcb maufacturer, beside the asian scammers, I would like to get the custom pcb boards with the diods, running them lower for 190lm/w

Edit: here is some old post of me

I would like to have a panel with 16x16 inch (2x 8x16 inch maybe), 1200x SMD 2835, spacing 2/9 inch, each diode: 15lm @ 29 1/6 ma - 2,7v - 0,08W, so max. 95W and 18000lm (~190lm/w). My driver is cc 350ma, so I need a wiring of [10s x 12p]
 

ANC

Well-Known Member
I will give you this, better thermal performance as the heat is spread over a larger interface with the air. and potentially more uniform lighting. But really, the price per lumen is a stinger on this one.

Do these diodes just use ordinary PCB? I have a local company that I used to manufacture boards for me when I still made amplifiers.
If it was something simple that didn't need masking, I'd make em myself. would imagine things like thermal vias etc would be needed.
They just can't do all the fancy colours of masking, I think the choice is blue, green or red. I'd use black if it was an option, but pricing was super good.
I used to do audio group buys so had to design and then have the boards made and parts sorted etc. Worked out cheaper than doing it in China.

I know I'm stingy, but I have been very poor for very long, thanks to weed that page is turning.
 

Serva

Well-Known Member
I am a noob, and don‘t have any clue about what you are talking. I like crafting and diy, so even because of this, I wouldn‘t get a QB.

But lets see (4‘ strips)

5ft x 5ft = 25sqft
25sqft * 30w/sqft = 750w
750w / 27w (nominal current) = 28 strips (390$)
750w / 40w (1000ma) = 19 strips (270$)
750w / 57w (max current) = 13 strips (180$)

3x HLG-240H-42A = 180$

Alu construction = 100$

So 670$ for nominal current = 0,9 $/w (free shipping)
Or 500 (you need better c-channel) for max current = 0,7 $/w (free shipping)

+ Perfect illumination and uniformity

HLG-600H = 670$ = 1,1 $/w (doesn‘t include the +60$ I would need to pay for shipping to europe)
Pre assembled and with shipping costs = 800$ = 1,3 $/w (shipping included)

So:
180lm/w x 750w = 135.000lm
200lm/w x 600w = 120.000lm

You see now, why I love the EB strips? They are one of the cheapest led strips. I think they are in general the cheapest light you can get atm! And yes, I don‘t have much money, so I had to take the compromis between cheaper initial costs, or cheaper energy bill. I pay pretty less for my energy, so I save more money ordering the cheaper strips. Otherwise I would have taken Samsung‘s F-series, but these would be 2x the initial cost.
 
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Nutria

Well-Known Member
Same here. QBs are not an option for eu costumers at the moment.
Ppl say F-series are the best bang for the buck but I am also looking for the best coverage, that is why I would go for eb2
 
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