The stems on the top few sets of leafs is red on the underside of the leaf, and in the center of the leafs where the blades come together there is a red dot. Is this a deficiency? Its about a month old and has not been fed yet. Actually, it was fed when it was too young and it was burnt, so I transplanted it into clean soil. It has recovered, but now I am afraid to feed it again until I know its a deficiency and not something else.
What is causing red/purple stems?
- Thread starter Mattpd
- Start date
mutantgargoyle
Well-Known Member
what are you growing also this link may also help you it has me International Cannagraphic Magazine Forums - The Complete guide to Sick Plants,pH, and Pest troubles!
cincismoker
Well-Known Member
ive heard several thing mostly low temp. but ive noticed it on most of my plants an its no problem
smokeybandit22
Well-Known Member
prob just your strain. I think is normal to some degree. But do start back with the nutes bra. she's hungry-maybe 1/4 dose for now but do feed her
TheCaptain
Active Member
Dont worry bout it. I recently harvested my 1st grow, and it had the same appearance. It completed flowering, I dried, cured and smoked the shyte out of it. It was better than anything that I could find in town. I had a few friends trying to buy it off me.
On my 2nd grow now, and the same reddish purple stems are growing, but overall plant is healthy.
Don't worry until a real problem appears.
On my 2nd grow now, and the same reddish purple stems are growing, but overall plant is healthy.
Don't worry until a real problem appears.
New2Growing
Active Member
check up on it, but I had the same problem with purple/redish stem. it was mainly twards the top and not the whole thing. I did some research and it turned out to be a calcium defeciency. but like I said it may be different for you, but a tablespoon of calcium in 1 gallon of h2o2 did the trick for me. Hope that helps...
MrHowardMarks
Well-Known Member
God, what a bunch of terrible advice, except for New2Growing.
-It's probably a MgCal (Magnesium Calcium deficiency)
Some people don't address this problem, and still have good results, and some strains do have a redish tint to their stalks, but without the proper amount of MgCal, nutrient uptake is limited.
-It's probably a MgCal (Magnesium Calcium deficiency)
Some people don't address this problem, and still have good results, and some strains do have a redish tint to their stalks, but without the proper amount of MgCal, nutrient uptake is limited.
MrHowardMarks
Well-Known Member
Lord Dangly Bits
Well-Known Member
It's a Stiff Left JAB to the CHIN!!!!!
And there is the right Upper Cut!!!!well maybe you should go back there
You can't link to similar sites
And the crowd goes wild!!!!!!
MrHowardMarks
Well-Known Member
I just hate going into a thread to answer a simple question and have to navigate around a bunch of bullshit.
If you don't know the answer, why reply?
If you don't know the answer, why reply?
AllThatIsChris
Active Member
im having a similar effect except its not a dot. the newer stems are sort of reddish but the plant is still growing. im using a miracle grow soil, not the extended one, i know thats hot shit. could dissolving a part of a vitamin and watering with it maybe give some nutes needed?
MrHowardMarks
Well-Known Member
Cough, MgCal cough.
New2Growing
Active Member
Hint Hint...^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ maybe Mg Cal
OK now I'm understanding Mr Howard's aggravation.
Do your research if your not going to take the given advice, and don't give contradicting advice damn it. Unless your proving it wrong, not just It could be this too... JESUS FUCKING A CHRIST!
O and yes what "nuts" are you using? HA!
MrHowardMarks
Well-Known Member
Yeah, it's almost like people would rather put in their 2c instead of doing a little research, I mean the answer is there right above their posts.
I don't let it bother me, that's what the kiddie play area is for. Every now and then I stumble around in here to answer some "Frequently Asked Questions"
It helps because they can ask a follow up question if I don't answer them fully.
I should be named the "thread closer" because after I post my answer, the thread usually doesn't get a reply, question answered, no need to reply.
+rep fight with new2growing
I don't let it bother me, that's what the kiddie play area is for. Every now and then I stumble around in here to answer some "Frequently Asked Questions"
It helps because they can ask a follow up question if I don't answer them fully.
I should be named the "thread closer" because after I post my answer, the thread usually doesn't get a reply, question answered, no need to reply.
+rep fight with new2growing
smokeybandit22
Well-Known Member
Well I guess Howard you are the expert here seeing that there isnt even any pics for the problem being described. Mgcal is a quick diagnosis for not even seeing the plant. I guess people were just trying to help-maybe you should blame the poster for not doing HIS research and for not posting pics as well. As for all the posts being bullshit, correct me if I am wrong but red stem and undersides of leaves IS a common trait of a particular strain. I take offense that my post was included in being bullshit-should he not start giving nutes again? Would not a quality nutrient formula containing the essentials fix his problem without risk of overdoing it? Why are you so cranky?
MrHowardMarks
Well-Known Member
Is there something wrong with my post.
All I read is it's normal, when it's really a problem that needs to be addressed.
I do agree that he should use fertilizer, but didn't have the time to mention your post.
My bad
Am I wrong
Hob10
Well-Known Member
Hi all
well i am new to this but pic are everthing how evre i dont just give advice with out reading about it but smokey you sead it all and better than i can i am just trying to help and to back that up here is were i found it.
GrowFAQ : Nutrient Disorder Problem Solver by Jackerspackle
Added by: administrator Last edited by: administrator Viewed: 104 times Rated by 16 users: 9.18/10Nutrient Disorder Problem Solver
Version 1.1 - Feb. 1998 - distribution okay
To use the Problem-Solver, simply start at #1 below. When you think you've found the problem, read the Nutrients section to learn more about it. Diagnose carefully before making major changes.
1) If the problem affects only the bottom or middle of the plant go to #2. b) If it affects only the top of the plant or the growing tips, skip to #10. If the problem seems to affect the entire plant equally, skip to #6.
2) Leaves are a uniform yellow or light green; leaves die & drop; growth is slow. Leaf margins are not curled-up noticeably. >> Nitrogen(N) deficiency. b) If not, go to #3.
3) Margins of the leaves are turned up, and the tips may be twisted. Leaves are yellowing (and may turn brown), but the veins remain somewhat green. >> Magnesium (Mg) deficiency. b) If not, go to #4.
4) Leaves are browning or yellowing. Yellow, brown, or necrotic (dead) patches, especially around the edges of the leaf, which may be curled. Plant may be too tall. >> Potassium (K) deficiency. b) If not, keep reading.
5) Leaves are dark green or red/purple. Stems and petioles may have purple & red on them. Leaves may turn yellow or curl under. Leaf may drop easily. Growth may be slow and leaves may be small. >> Phosphorus(P) deficiency. b) If not, go to #6.
6) Tips of leaves are yellow, brown, or dead. Plant otherwise looks healthy & green. Stems may be soft >> Over-fertilization (especially N), over-watering, damaged roots, or insufficient soil aeration (use more sand or perlite. Occasionally due to not enough N, P, or K. b) If not, go to #7.
7) Leaves are curled under like a ram's horn, and are dark green, gray, brown, or gold. >> Over-fertilization (too much N). b) If not, go to #8
The plant is wilted, even though the soil is moist. >> Over-fertilization, soggy soil, damaged roots, disease; copper deficiency (very unlikely). b) If not, go to #9. 9) Plants won't flower, even though they get 12 hours of darkness for over 2 weeks. >> The night period is not completely dark. Too much nitrogen. Too much pruning or cloning. b) If not, go to #10...
10) Leaves are yellow or white, but the veins are mostly green. >> Iron (Fe) deficiency. b) If not, go to #11.
11) Leaves are light green or yellow beginning at the base, while the leaf margins remain green. Necrotic spots may be between veins. Leaves are not twisted. >> Manganese (Mn) deficiency. b) If not, #12.
12) Leaves are twisted. Otherwise, pretty much like #11. >> Zinc (Zn) deficiency. b) If not, #13.
13) Leaves twist, then turn brown or die. >> The lights are too close to the plant. Rarely, a Calcium (Ca) or Boron (B) deficiency. b) If not You may just have a weak plant.
The Nutrients:
Nitrogen - Plants need lots of N during vegging, but it's easy to overdo it. Added too much? Flush the soil with plain water. Soluble nitrogen (especially nitrate) is the form that's the most quickly available to the roots, while insoluble N (like urea) first needs to be broken down by microbes in the soil before the roots can absorb it. Avoid excessive ammonium nitrogen, which can interfere with other nutrients. Too much N delays flowering. Plants should be allowed to become N-deficient late in flowering for best flavor.
Magnesium - Mg-deficiency is pretty common since marijuana uses lots of it and many fertilizers don't have enough of it. Mg-deficiency is easily fixed with ¼ teaspoon/gallon of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water) or foliar feed at ½ teaspoon/quart. When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil for Mg. Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or you'll lock up other nutrients.
Potassium - Too much sodium (Na) displaces K, causing a K deficiency. Sources of high salinity are: baking soda (sodium bicarbonate "pH-up"), too much manure, and the use of water-softening filters (which should not be used). If the problem is Na, flush the soil. K can get locked up from too much Ca or ammonium nitrogen, and possibly cold weather.
Phosphorous - Some deficiency during flowering is normal, but too much shouldn't be tolerated. Red petioles and stems are a normal, genetic characteristic for many varieties, plus it can also be a co-symptom of N, K, and Mg-deficiencies, so red stems are not a foolproof sign of P-deficiency. Too much P can lead to iron deficiency.
Iron - Fe is unavailable to plants when the pH of the water or soil is too high. If deficient, lower the pH to about 6.5 (for rockwool, about 5.7), and check that you're not adding too much P, which can lock up Fe. Use iron that's chelated for maximum availability. Read your fertilizer's ingredients - chelated iron might read something like "iron EDTA". To much Fe without adding enough P can cause a P-deficiency.
Manganese - Mn gets locked out when the pH is too high, and when there's too much iron. Use chelated Mn.
Zinc - Also gets locked out due to high pH. Zn, Fe, and Mn deficiencies often occur together, and are usually from a high pH. Don't overdo the micro-nutrients-lower the pH if that's the problem so the nutrients become available. Foliar feed if the plant looks real bad. Use chelated zinc.
Check Your Water - Crusty faucets and shower heads mean your water is "hard," usually due to too many minerals. Tap water with a TDS (total dissolved solids) level of more than around 200ppm (parts per million) is "hard" and should be looked into, especially if your plants have a chronic problem. Ask your water company for an analysis listing, which will usually list the pH, TDS, and mineral levels (as well as the pollutants, carcinogens, etc) for the tap water in your area. This is a common request, especially in this day and age, so it shouldn't raise an eyebrow. Regular water filters will not reduce a high TDS level, but the costlier reverse-osmosis units, distillers, and de-ionizers will. A digital TDS meter (or EC = electrical conductivity meter) is an incredibly useful tool for monitoring the nutrient levels of nutrient solution, and will pay for itself before you know it. They run about $40 and up.
General Feeding Tips - Pot plants are very adaptable, but a general rule of thumb is to use more nitrogen & less phosphorous during the vegetative period, and the exact opposite during the flowering period. For the veg. period try a N
:K ratio of about 10:7:8 (which of course is the same ratio as 20:14:16), and for flowering plants, 4:8:8. Check the pH after adding nutrients. If you use a reservoir, keep it circulating and change it every 2 weeks. A general guideline for TDS levels is as follows: seedlings = 50-150 ppm; unrooted clones = 100-350 ppm; small plants = 400-800 ppm; large plants = 900-1800 ppm; last week of flowering = taper off to plain water. These numbers are just a guideline, and many factors can change the actual level the plants will need. Certain nutrients are "invisible" to TDS meters, especially organics, so use TDS level only as an estimate of actual nutrient levels. When in doubt about a new fertilizer, follow the fertilizer's directions for feeding tomatoes. Grow a few tomato or radish plants nearby for comparison.
PH - The pH of water after adding any nutrients should be around 5.9-6.5 (in rockwool, 5.5-6.1). Generally speaking, the micro-nutrients (Fe, Zn, Mn, Cu) get locked out at a high pH (alkaline) above 7.0, while the major nutrients (N, P, K, Mg) can be less available in acidic soil or water (below 5.0). Tap water is often too alkaline. Soils with lots of peat or other organic matter in them tend to get too acidic, which some dolomite lime will help fix. Soil test kits vary in accuracy, and generally the more you pay the better the accuracy. For the water, color-based pH test kits from aquarium stores are inexpensive, but inaccurate. Invest in a digital pH meter ($40-80), preferably a waterproof one. You won't regret it.
Cold - Cold weather (below 50F/10C) can lock up phosphorous. Some
varieties, like equatorial sativas, don't take well to cold weather. If you can keep the roots warmer, the plant will be able to take cooler temps than it otherwise could.
Heat - If the lights are too close to the plant, the tops may be curled, dry, and look burnt, mimicking a nutrient problem. Your hand should not feel hot after a minute when you hold it at the top of the plants. Raise the lights and/or aim a fan at the hot zone. Room temps should be kept under 85F (29C) -- or 90F (33) if you add additional CO2.
Humidity - Thin, shriveled leaves can be from low humidity. 40-80 % is usually fine.
Mold and Fungus - Dark patchy areas on leaves and buds can be mold. Lower the humidity and increase the ventilation if mold is a problem. Remove any dead leaves, wherever they are. Keep your garden clean.
Insects - White spots on the tops of leaves can mean spider mites
underneath.
Sprays - Foliar sprays can have a "magnifying glass" effect under bright lights, causing small white, yellow or burnt spots which can be confused with a nutrient problem. Some sprays can also cause chemical reactions.
Insufficient light - tall, stretching plants are usually from using the wrong kind of light.. Don't use regular incandescent bulbs ("grow bulbs") or halogens to grow cannabis. Invest in fluorescent lighting (good) or HID lighting (much better) which supply the high-intensity light
that cannabis needs for good growth and tight buds. Even better, grow in sunlight.
Clones - yellowing leaves on unrooted clones can be from too much light, or the stem may not be firmly touching the rooting medium. Turn off any CO2 until they root. Too much fertilizer can shrivel or wilt clones - plain tap water is fine.
If this helped, send a few dollars to NORML.
Best of luck,
jackerspackle
Last modified: 14:23 - Nov 11, 2000
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