It is a Sensor Push, I have the gateway so I can check from anywhere. Rhey have on board memory, you use a phne app to check them. Super easy to set up and no problems at all, highly recommend if you want an easy wat to monitor and log temp/rh. You can also set up alerts for low/high, it has saved me a time or two when i forgot to turn the light timer back on.
DIY with Quantum Boards
- Thread starter robincnn
- Start date
It is a Sensor Push, I have the gateway so I can check from anywhere. Rhey have on board memory, you use a phne app to check them. Super easy to set up and no problems at all, highly recommend if you want an easy wat to monitor and log temp/rh. You can also set up alerts for low/high, it has saved me a time or two when i forgot to turn the light timer back on.
regoob eht
Well-Known Member
That's what I wanted to hear. Thanks a bundle, happy growing!
RangiSTaxi
Well-Known Member
Ive been running 16 Cree 3590s in a 4 x4 i.e 1.2metre x 1.2 metre x 2 metre high but i have always run duel layer, i.e i have a table mid height, 8 x 3590s driven at 50 watt each layer, i plant in a table only 15cm deep. top and bottom.
Im considering selling my lights and changing to 2 x HGL 300s.
my 3590s pull around 800 watts i imagine , 2 x hgl 300s would pull around 600 watts,
I keen on the low profile of the quantum boards and the weight reduction.
p.s i live in nz so if anyone wants the 3590s let me know in the next few days
thoughts?
Im considering selling my lights and changing to 2 x HGL 300s.
my 3590s pull around 800 watts i imagine , 2 x hgl 300s would pull around 600 watts,
I keen on the low profile of the quantum boards and the weight reduction.
p.s i live in nz so if anyone wants the 3590s let me know in the next few days
thoughts?
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ANC
Well-Known Member
I cheated, I only had a bit of solid core, so I only soldered them to the ends of my stranded cable so it can make the connection.... Cover the solder joint with heat shrink.
RangiSTaxi
Well-Known Member
TheBFA
Member
Do you happen to know how to get them out of the connector? I need to make some dimension adjustments to my frame and would rather be able to completely disconnect the lights from it when I do it.
RangiSTaxi
Well-Known Member
if there isn't a push down clip release just pull it out.
you can use any wire.
Some advantages of solid core wire:
- Cheaper to produce
- More compact diameter for the same current carrying capability as stranded
- Less likely to fail due to corrosion
- Typically only available in small gauges
- Continuous flexing or vibration will cause the wire to fatigue and break
- Very flexible and withstands a greater amount of flexing and vibration
- Easier to rout
- Diameter is larger for the same carrying capability as solid
- More costly to produce as the manufacturing process is more complex
- More likely to fail due to corrosion from capillary action & a high surface area
RangiSTaxi
Well-Known Member
My understanding is you can cut off and join and use "any" power cord plug lying around your home, maybe a appliance you were going to trash or a spare extension cord you have lying around, any cord plug you have will meet your countries specs for rating/safety, when joining just make sure you separate the live earth and negative with insulation tape if wire are exposed, you probably wont need to if you use a plastic connector , I use the screw in type connectors to join the 3 wires, seriously you dont need to buy a plug, you probably has one lying around, use it., just conect the 3 wires. . or just buy a extension cord and cut of one end.
RangiSTaxi
Well-Known Member
yes any power cord or extention cord will be ok. most oil heaters pull much much more than any led light your building
TheBFA
Member
I got mine as a kit and already had solid wire. I had to relocate one of the wires because of length issues when I was arranging them, and I couldn't figure out how to get it out. They are dual sided slots, so you can slide the wire in either side. I tried giving it a little tug, but I'm 6'3" and 270lbs, so I try not to force anything this intricate because it could lead to me breaking stuff haha.
Here is what it looks like. This is a 100W COB led. The little tab looking thing looks like some kind of release in the pic, but it's actually just a molded part of the lower casing. I even pulled the led off the heat sink to see if there was a release on the back side.
Attachments
RangiSTaxi
Well-Known Member
Just pull it out, no harm can be done, they are a push pull system, they have a little resistance when pulling out but not much, then just push back in, if if doesn't pull out with reasonable force there will be a release push in button. cant tell from your pic. im thinking its like the cree 3590s pull out push in system ..but could be wrong?
RangiSTaxi
Well-Known Member
any power cord will do, any house cord has to be rated above your house fuse loading, pull too much load and your house fuse will blow, the weakest link is your house fuse not your power cable.
in new zealand a oil heater or toaster or jug can pull 2800 watts (240 volts) pull a lot more than that say 3500 watts from a single plug and the house fuse will go, i doubt your pulling 2800 watts at 240 volts off a single plug or lead with your led light. any powercord can take much more than 2800 watts. at a guess id say any power lead you have or could buy would withstand a pull of 6000 watts at 240 volts over a half hour period before getting hot enough to cause a fire, but your fuse box will trip well before at half that.
voltage doesn't really matter. in New Zealand we run 240 volts from the wall in the US its half that i believe.
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RangiSTaxi
Well-Known Member
oh crap i forgot why i came here, ok here goes...
Ive been running 16 Cree 3590s in a 4 x4 i.e 1.2metre x 1.2 metre x 2 metre high but i have always run duel layer, i.e i have a table mid height, that is i grow within a metre height. 8 x 3590s driven at 50 watt each layer, i plant in a table only 15cm deep. top and bottom. veg 2 weeks and flip to 12/12
Im considering selling my lights and changing to 2 x HGL 300s. (manly due to weight reduction, better spread and small profile as in they are thinner)
my 3590s pull around 800 watts i imagine , 2 x hgl 300s would pull around 600 watts,
Im keen on the low profile of the quantum boards and the weight reduction.
should i sell the 16 3590s driven at 50 watts each for 2 hgl 300s quantum boards?
could i achieve similar yield? ill be dropping 200 watts?
thoughts?
Ive been running 16 Cree 3590s in a 4 x4 i.e 1.2metre x 1.2 metre x 2 metre high but i have always run duel layer, i.e i have a table mid height, that is i grow within a metre height. 8 x 3590s driven at 50 watt each layer, i plant in a table only 15cm deep. top and bottom. veg 2 weeks and flip to 12/12
Im considering selling my lights and changing to 2 x HGL 300s. (manly due to weight reduction, better spread and small profile as in they are thinner)
my 3590s pull around 800 watts i imagine , 2 x hgl 300s would pull around 600 watts,
Im keen on the low profile of the quantum boards and the weight reduction.
should i sell the 16 3590s driven at 50 watts each for 2 hgl 300s quantum boards?
could i achieve similar yield? ill be dropping 200 watts?
thoughts?
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420Barista
Well-Known Member
heres some thoughts for you.
first off the hlg 300 is a prebuilt fixture hlg sells which is nice but they also have a diy kit in the same wide configuration. https://horticulturelightinggroup.com/collections/diy/products/260w-xw-qb-led-kit
whats nice about the kit is it includes everything you need to assemble except rope ratchets and tools. and as far as I can recall the tools needed were a phillips head screwdriver to mount the boards to the heatsink and wire strippers to cut and strip the wire for the hookup. now currently as of writing this hlg shows out of stock but no biggie they also distribute to https://growerslights.com/products/...w-quantum-board-led-kit?variant=2764371197980 and thru them for $25 more ya dont need the tools cause they will build it and test it b4 shipping to you.
as for your crees thats up to you if you can find a buyer.
I myself have 2 of these kits https://horticulturelightinggroup.com/collections/diy/products/260w-qb-led-kit which was their first 2 QB kit I ordered back in may 2017 they didnt offer the wide 2 board kit yet. I had originally planned to run 3 tents 2 4x4 for flower and a 3x3 for veg. but reality set in when I realized I currently had the space for a 3x3 tent only and Im barely fitting that in. so in the 3x3 i am using the 2 kits and at lowest output on the 4 boards plus a 2 30w secret jardin fans one blowing up from the center floor and another hanging in a corner on a pole blowing across the fins of the heatsink. and im at 296watts according to the kill a watt and my temps in the tent dont exceed 84. I cant run at full power cause it drives the temps up to the mid 90's, and from the grows guys are doing with the QB's many are not running full blast and are getting great results.
still I would be very interested to see how you do with them.
nc208
Well-Known Member
Most power cords you speak of are made with 18 gauge wire, you can usually see a number on the cord like 18/3 which denotes 18 gauge wire and uses 3 wires. a 2 wire one will read 18/2.
