I would recommend making an 11'x11' fixture which would give you very good coverage over a 10'x10' area.
Use between 60 and 78 44" Bridgelux Gen2
BXEB-L1120Z-30E4000-C-B3
Make the fixture with 20/26 rows of three 44" strips.
Make the distance between rows all the same.
Use one Mean Well HLG 185 watt driver for every two rows. (buy with free shipping e.g. Arrow)
Run the supply wires to the strips through a 0.01Ω 1% resistor to measure current with a voltmeter. Vishay Dale part number: SR3R0100FE66
Run the same amount of current in each set of 6.
If you want to use a 48V supply and wire them in parallel, measure the forward voltage (Vf) of every strip and match the Vf in sets of 6.
Otherwise wire them in series. Series is best for uniformity but uses high potentially fatal voltages.
In parallel one 0.01Ω resistor for every strip, in series one for each set. For me this is a MUST. Especially with parallel wiring as the currents through each strip will be unbalanced. You need to know they are not unbalanced by too much. The only way to know is to measure.
Why?
A single row strip needs no heatsink.
Four 1000W HPS is about 400,000 lumens (I like very round numbers)
Each strip is about 4,700 lumens.
Times 60 = 282,000 lumens @ 700mA
Times 78 = 366,600 lumens @ 700mA
You can just about double the output as these strips can be run up to 1400 mA without getting hot.
You could scale it back to less strips but I would not use less than 51.
Why not CoBs?
Too much work to build.
Cost is higher per lumen
Heatsinks make a significant increase in cost and weight.
CoBs have shitty uniformity, strips will give you ±5% uniformity across the entire 10x10 area.