best nutrients to use in hydro

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
Yes I used it in soil and while chemistry is not my fortie or even an interest my plants always did well using it. As for the toxic thing, I guess I need to do more research but as far as toxic to the plant itself, never saw it and we are talking huge numbers of plants. Not disagreeing really but again I always had great luck using it. As for taste, the main selling point of the Blueberry (yes mostly the same strain for 13 years) was taste and quality that customers wanted. I just met with an old friend who actually mentioned he wished it was still around. Sorry I regress, back to the sciency stuff ;).
 

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
I don't know if i'd bother with hydro for 4 plants
no, i love my autofeed drain to waste waterfarms. i've got it set up where i can go out of town for at least a week and all is well when i get back.
in fact, everything is pretty much dialed in that all i'm messing with now is different nutes and different additives.
 

jimihendrix1

Well-Known Member
Okay guitar man, where did you get those NPK numbers? I have never seen anyone credible claim to know the perfect fertilizer for cannabis before, what’s your source?
While I haven't used them, and am not in Canada,

Look into the Elite Nutrients... ROOT IGNITER.
Elite Nutrients Products | Hydro Empire
https://www.hydroempire.com/brand/elite-nutrients


Active Ingredients:
Mycorrhizae: 136 propagules per mL

Endomycorrhizae:
Glomus intraradices: (34 prop./ml each)
G. mosseae: (34 prop./ml each)
G. aggregatum: (34 prop./ml each)
G. etunicatum: (34 prop./ml each)




Tissue Samples.

Chem Gro have been in business since the 60s. Just because you've never heard of them, nor seen ads doesn't mean crap. I guess you've seen every ad for every product ever made,
And since these people have been in business for 50+ years, and been making Plant Specific Formulas Forever, your research is lacking.

They have been making Plant Specific Formulas for decades. Read Again. DECADES,, Multiple Decades like 5 of them. 50 years worth.


They use Tissue Samples. Doesn't get any more accurate than that.

These people have been in business since the 60s, and Ive been using these people since the 80s. Some formulas were different then, they didn't have the weed formula, we used the Hobby Formula, and tweaked it to our unscientific liking.

I'll go with my experience with the company, and 46 years of growing. Ive been mucking around outside since 1972, and since 1978 for inside.

I mainly do Passive Hydro, use Promix BX as my medium, and use large 20-30 gallon containers for trees. I veg under 1000w HID, and flower under 1000w HID. Hortilux HPS, and Gavitas. 63w sq/ft of light per 4 x 4 area minimum. More with the Gavitas. I never get less than a 1.5-1.75lbs per light ( 4 x 4 ) ( Hortilux. More for Gavita ), and often 2+. I use no atmospheric control, but do have good airflow, so in winter I get more, summer less. Usually 2 per Hortilux, and 4 under the Gavitas. Gavita is used for a 6 x 5 area at full output, vs 4 x 4 for Hortilux

I basically use 20% strength, and Feed/Water Every Feeding. In a 20g-30 container, for a flowering plant, I water/feed 4 - 6 gallons every 3.5 days. You also have to be very careful about salts buildup in containers when you feed/water each time, and increasing the PPM weekly.

Also my take on the AMINOS, is ASSUMING, All other Nutrients/Macro/Micro, are in order, and the PH is correct.
After that,....Adding anything extra Macros/Micros... is a waste of money.

Protein is Nitrogen. Amino Acids are what make up Protein/Nitrogen. You've either got enough, or you don't. If yore lacking, they can help, if your not lacking, they can cause overload.

If I was having problems, Id get my PH, Macros/Micros correct before I added anything else.

The Promix BX contains Mycorize, and after it settles, the PH will stabilize at 6.2-6.3. Initially it will measure 5.8 or so, and stabilize upwards.
 
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southernguy99

Well-Known Member
no, i love my autofeed drain to waste waterfarms. i've got it set up where i can go out of town for at least a week and all is well when i get back.
in fact, everything is pretty much dialed in that all i'm messing with now is different nutes and different additives.
yes knowing your setup like that I wouldn't change either, one nutes I'd take a look at is Remo Nutrients from western canada I'm pretty sure they sell in the usa as well, From what I seen and heard I think he is a pretty good grower and has his own nutrient line. worth looking into.
 

Michael Huntherz

Well-Known Member
Yes I used it in soil and while chemistry is not my fortie or even an interest my plants always did well using it. As for the toxic thing, I guess I need to do more research but as far as toxic to the plant itself, never saw it and we are talking huge numbers of plants. Not disagreeing really but again I always had great luck using it. As for taste, the main selling point of the Blueberry (yes mostly the same strain for 13 years) was taste and quality that customers wanted. I just met with an old friend who actually mentioned he wished it was still around. Sorry I regress, back to the sciency stuff ;).
Man, I think a lot of us overthink it.

I think about that all the time...like, constantly. :P

I have smoked top shelf buds produced by doing everything “wrong” (except curing) enough times that I have a hard time believing there is any sort true path or perfect method.
 

Cold$moke

Well-Known Member
Yes but then you do a fire run and your like awww yea lol i knw tons of stuff ive fuck up on this grow lol

I dont mind im shaking the dust off a year or 2 stint of just keeping my mommas alive :) work kept me away to much to care to grow

I by it cheap from other growers i know lol
 

Bernie420

Well-Known Member
Why does the chem-gro recipe have such a big difference in ppm's on their recipe for weeks 3&4 when it says to use the same amount of nutrients for each week?
 

southernguy99

Well-Known Member
well there is a reason why I said Chem gro was junk by just looking at . First off they use Phosphoric Acid without going into a lot of detail that is a cheap product and way of doing it, and can create many issues one being PH down issues and there are better products like Monopotassium phosphate. They list Soluble Potash (K20) if you look in the small print they say Muriate of Potash, again a junk cheap product they should be using Potassium sulfate. so what are you getting there is no Nitrogen to speak of no magnesium sulfate so what are you paying for.its 2 cheap and shitty products in it , in P205 and K20 and the trace element are not any wheres what they should be and none of its balanced. the point of mixing your own nutes is to use high quality elements and keep them balanced this is neither.
There feed program is so retarded I don't know what else to say, none if it will balance out, just look at the Nitrate its so fucked its beyond . I mean just think about it for an 8 week plant what is it doing from week 5 on , pretty much everything is going to flower the plant is not growing or stretching etc. so why in the fuck would anyone throw that much Nitrates at it, week 7 and 8 really doesn't need any. there should be a bump in nitrogen right at pre-flower for about 10 days and then it drops off again.
 

southernguy99

Well-Known Member
basic mix should have calcium nitrate potassium sulfate potassium nitrate ( veg only ) monopotassium phosphate ,magnesium sulfate and a good balance of micro nutes and that will give anyone a good start.your only going to grow as good as the quality of nutes you use
 
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