Samsung F Series LED Strip Build for a 3x3' (links for ALL parts inc.)
skoomd
Well-Known Member
I need to flush to remove the nutrients in the soil. nectar for the gods only works properly if the soil is 300-500ppm. And I need to get the plant used to nectar before it goes into flower from what I have heard from others.
I just flushed before lights went off though, and i took pics the minute they turned back on. But the drooping isnt from overwatering. I let my soil get dry 2 inches deep at least before watering. Bordering underwatered before I water again, lol. If anything it's excess nutrients in my soil causing it.
Believe me though, it's def not overwatering causing the drooping. Otherwise it wouldnt be growing 2-3" a day in soil with organics.
it's in soil so cant check the roots. But I am using recharge so i would imagine they're great.
diyled
Well-Known Member
I'm not sure who told you to flush in veg that's a very bad idea.
You shouldn't need to feed till flip in soil. I'd give a heavy dose of veg nutes at flip to get the ready for the stretch then once flowers form add your bloom nutes.
You want a nice shiney dark green with the leafs praying to the light.
I used to do 1 plant per 4x4, keeping the root system healthy with such a long cycle is key to a good yield.
You shouldn't need to feed till flip in soil. I'd give a heavy dose of veg nutes at flip to get the ready for the stretch then once flowers form add your bloom nutes.
You want a nice shiney dark green with the leafs praying to the light.
I used to do 1 plant per 4x4, keeping the root system healthy with such a long cycle is key to a good yield.
skoomd
Well-Known Member
I usually dont feed until i flip in soil, or even 2 weeks into flower.
But nectar for the gods is a really unique organic nute line that is calcium based, and the plant needs to get used to it before flowering. And if your ppm are over 500ppm, it will cause issues with the calcium, tanking growth. It uses 4 kinds of calcium to bring other nutrients into the plant (Ca binds to 7 other ions), and you force calcium to uptake 4-5x more with the bloom khaos. So its a big issue if Ca is messed up with too many ppm.
skoomd
Well-Known Member
Not true....
Organic nutrients are the same ions as synthetic nutes. They are no different.
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Which soil did you have? Happy Frog for instance is full of "bio"-nutrients that are not easy to wash out. You can reduce it, but within a short time the EC will rise again. This is due to the nature of the added nutrients. Mineral fertilizers are easy to wash out, biological, non-liquid biofertilizers are not so easy to wash out.
I'd repotting and mix the soil up with 50% nutrient free coco to get the ppm down to the desired levels. There is still enough time...
I'd repotting and mix the soil up with 50% nutrient free coco to get the ppm down to the desired levels. There is still enough time...
skoomd
Well-Known Member
Fox farms ocean forest.
And yea i see what you're talking about. But you can flush out at least the available nutrient ions and it will be a while before the PPM would go up again in my experience using ocean forest.
Like i said i usually dont feed until the first or second week of flower when using FFOF, but by then the soil is pretty depleted and my PPM runoff is 200-300.
The herculean harvest in nectar for the gods is the flushing agent as it has the most calcium. Calcium is way more effective at flushing out nutes than even stuff like clearex or florakleen it seems. Im also using SLF-100 (enzymes) to help.
Im just gonna leave things as is but continue to flush each watering with HH to 30% runoff. Once I get most of the nutrient ions out of the soil, ill be good to go, even if they come back. Because the continual feedings of herculean harvest will keep things flushed out.
skoomd
Well-Known Member
Actually I think i am okay. I just went over the nectar for the gods unofficial bible and I forgot that the PPM of the SLURRY test is supposed to be 200-500ppm, not the ppm of the RUNOFF lol!
Just took a slurry test and it read 154ppm (distilled water) and 6.5 PH. So I am fine in that regard.
I wont feed nectar nutrients again until it gets close to flower or if it needs it.
Just took a slurry test and it read 154ppm (distilled water) and 6.5 PH. So I am fine in that regard.
I wont feed nectar nutrients again until it gets close to flower or if it needs it.
Mega Crop////one nute
Humple
Well-Known Member
I honestly think you need to up your temps, bro. Looks just like my plants did in the first stages of mag deficiency, and the thing that fixed it was getting my temps up over 80°F.Update pic again, veg is going crazy now.
Lights just turned on.
Pulled the 2 top stems down a bit to level out the plant.
Watered today with recharge and a herculean harvest flush... my fucking runoff ppm was 2800! Need to get this soil flushed out asap as it will fuck with nectar for the gods. Will do another HH flush next watering and see what it's at. My other HH flushes have only given me 1600-1800ppm runoff so the fact i got 2800ppm this time tells me it really flushed a lot out this time so im keeping fingers crossed it's close to flushed fully.
You can see how fast it's growing though if u compare to 2 days ago. it's nuts.
I'm really hoping to pull close to 1.5 pounds out of her.
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Zitat: Lights just turned on!
I think thats more the night conditions. Max. reading show 79°F!
But that was also my first idea but it's more likely is too much nitrogen..
I think thats more the night conditions. Max. reading show 79°F!
But that was also my first idea but it's more likely is too much nitrogen..
Humple
Well-Known Member
You could be right. But it looks like there is some mottling starting on one of the lower leaves, which is another thing I've learned to look out for when the average temp is low. @skoomd any idea for how many hours of the lights-on period the temp is at 79°? Because if it's only a couple at the end of the day, it may still be a temp issue. Best of luck, regardless! Still plenty of time to figure things out...
skoomd
Well-Known Member
Temps are usually 80-82f, it's just been a little cooler now i turned down my lights
rshackleferd
Well-Known Member
I think this is perfect, nice setup shroomdJust posting this light I just made, expect to see a lot more from me in the coming weeks as I get my strawberry banana seeds in and grow em under this bad boy. Plan to run Nectar for the Gods as well
The goal of this light was to strive for insanely good uniformity to help with canopy penetration and prevent any kind of light stress/burning from being too close (a common problem with fewer sources of more powerful lights).
What do ya'll think? I gotta clean up some of the wiring, but it's pretty much all complete.
Tent temps max out at 79f (74f ambient) and the temp of the strips is 45-50C measured directly center of the strips.
SPECS:
View attachment 4106859 View attachment 4106861
- 10x Samsung LT-F562B 2′ Strips, 50/50 mix of 3000k and 3500k
1x Mean Well HLG-320H-24B Driver- 1x 100K Ohm Potentiometer
- 10x 24" strips of 1" aluminum heatsink (i used u channel for my last build, the heatsink has way better thermal dissipation so far)
- 2x 30" pieces and 2x 24" pieces of aluminum L frame
- 1x roll of thermal double sided tape to mount strips easily
- ~3 feet of red/black 14g stranded tinned copper wire for wago to wago connections
- ~8 feet of black 18g solid core copper wire for poking into strip connectors easily
- A bunch of 5 slot wagos
- 5-15p NEMA cord 18g
- Waterproof connector for power cord
- Total power: 313w tested from wall
- Efficiency: 52.9%
- PAR Watts: 165.57w
- PPF calculated: 808 umol/s
- Estimated PPFD @ 18": ~900+umol /m2/ s
- COST: $405.95 SHIPPED TO ME
