Manifolding (Menorah'n) Plants in a GreenHouse

hydra-glide

Well-Known Member
I'll make one up to illustrate, tomorrow. And a progress photo. How many weeks along? I'll look at the calendar.
 

hydra-glide

Well-Known Member

Rockwell Labs Ltd Hi Hydra-Glide, it sounds like you are doing everything correctly (2mls per pint spray-bottle). We do recommend to avoid spraying once budding starts. If used appropriately prior to budding, there should be minimal need for the (3N1) product at this stage of development.
 

hydra-glide

Well-Known Member
Rockwell reply above was after being informed of the insecticides used after veg. and during bloom, i.e, water-based, Kontos, TetraSan, Cease, and Milstop.
After Manifolding comes Schwazzing, which is defoliating twice, once during veg. and again in bloom. Basically this:
First defoliation (right before, or immediately after, switching to flowering)
Second defoliation (3 weeks after switch to flowering)

Shown: before, and after, and the leaves removed.
https://www.growweedeasy.com/schwazzing-cannabis
 

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Bugeye

Well-Known Member
I coined the phrase Menorah, because it describes a shape that everyone knows what you're talking about.
Here's my menorah'd example. It has 3-sets of leaves on each side. It needs four sets of leaves. Then that 4th set gets topped. The originator of the "manifold" menorah recommends removing the second set of growth, if you desire (eight colas). I'm keeping my second set of branches for more colas.View attachment 4161509
Then, I'm building a 2x4 wire surround, where I'll cut out holes for the branch arms, and hang yo-yo's from the wire surrounds top perimeter to hold-up the sagging colas.
View attachment 4161510- last season
The menorah'd plants will have far less vegetation, and none in the lower larfy-bud areas, hopefully eliminating some of the mold and bud-rot risks.
You gotta fill up that space! Top them and let them run a bit more next season! But a very nice grow, congrats!!
 

Sithlord88

Well-Known Member
Rockwell reply above was after being informed of the insecticides used after veg. and during bloom, i.e, water-based, Kontos, TetraSan, Cease, and Milstop.
After Manifolding comes Schwazzing, which is defoliating twice, once during veg. and again in bloom. Basically this:
First defoliation (right before, or immediately after, switching to flowering)
Second defoliation (3 weeks after switch to flowering)

Shown: before, and after, and the leaves removed.
https://www.growweedeasy.com/schwazzing-cannabis
A good prune i get. But i get rid of the lowest little branches and low small leaves but i leave as many big leaves as possible without affecting airflow. All those leaves are powerplants. With some good training you can leave more on and fill the tent out better.

Just my .02. Looking good tho, good job
 

hydra-glide

Well-Known Member
You gotta fill up that space! Top them and let them run a bit more next season! But a very nice grow, congrats!!
I'm thinking now how I can keep (7) cages on casters and not have wide arms that prevent moving them around during veg (bloom starts here on July 22). There will be 13:59 hrs. daylight. Mine are Ethiopian x cross sativa's, with only 47 days in 7-gal veg. I'd like to let them continue with at least one more 20-20-20 veg. feeding, and then start bloom nutes on July 31. So I guess I will, being a sativa it may not finish until October/November? Trich color dictating.
 

hydra-glide

Well-Known Member
With some good training you can leave more on and fill the tent out better.
I'm trying to figure out how to train these branches. Too wide and I can't walk around the plants. I'd like to grow upwards to the green house ceiling. I'll post some pics and their age this morning. Hoping you guys have some LST suggestions for the plant that expanding it's cage. I have 20 white, yo-yo's, and red plant-ties. The more I bend the branch on this one shown, the more colas will rise from the base of the leaf brackets.
Each of these plants now have 3 branch nodes, the newest growth will be a 4th node branch bracket. [According to GWeasy's Schwazzing, the emerging 4th node should be topped leaving only the bottom three brackets to remain, and have all growth below the bottom bracket removed as any appears?]
I believe that from this 48-day (6.86 week old veg.) that I'll feed it 20-20-20 tomorrow, and keep on with 20-20-20 until the buds start to form. In our neighborhood, that begins July 22, when the daylight hours are 13:59 min. All plants will begin to go to flowering, except mine will linger on with 20-20-20 feedings for awhile, trying to build that Bigger Root Ball, before I change to Jack's 10-30-20 bloom nutes. "No roots....no fruits!" Does this seem like a sound plan?Rnd7.7.JPG Rnd7.6.JPG
 
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hydra-glide

Well-Known Member
Happy Aphelion day, July 22, 2018, Blooming begins with 13:59 min. of daylight in our lat. and long. "This is usually about 3-weeks after the first solstice in June." - I think.
 

Bugeye

Well-Known Member
I'm trying to figure out how to train these branches. Too wide and I can't walk around the plants. I'd like to grow upwards to the green house ceiling. I'll post some pics and their age this morning. Hoping you guys have some LST suggestions for the plant that expanding it's cage. I have 20 white, yo-yo's, and red plant-ties. The more I bend the branch on this one shown, the more colas will rise from the base of the leaf brackets.
Each of these plants now have 3 branch nodes, the newest growth will be a 4th node branch bracket. [According to GWeasy's Schwazzing, the emerging 4th node should be topped leaving only the bottom three brackets to remain, and have all growth below the bottom bracket removed as any appears?]
I believe that from this 48-day (6.86 week old veg.) that I'll feed it 20-20-20 tomorrow, and keep on with 20-20-20 until the buds start to form. In our neighborhood, that begins July 22, when the daylight hours are 13:59 min. All plants will begin to go to flowering, except mine will linger on with 20-20-20 feedings for awhile, trying to build that Bigger Root Ball, before I change to Jack's 10-30-20 bloom nutes. "No roots....no fruits!" Does this seem like a sound plan?View attachment 4168352 View attachment 4168351
Nice! You do have ceiling potential! Just keep tucking them back into the cage for as long as you can, then you can tie them up as needed when that is no longer possible. It will help to run a net over the top of the cages and maybe another one a couple feet below the roof (if they do take off on you). You can then Supercrop them at net levels. Important not to let them grow against the ceiling, that fouls the buds touching roof. Best wishes!
 

Sithlord88

Well-Known Member
I'm trying to figure out how to train these branches. Too wide and I can't walk around the plants. I'd like to grow upwards to the green house ceiling. I'll post some pics and their age this morning. Hoping you guys have some LST suggestions for the plant that expanding it's cage. I have 20 white, yo-yo's, and red plant-ties. The more I bend the branch on this one shown, the more colas will rise from the base of the leaf brackets.
Each of these plants now have 3 branch nodes, the newest growth will be a 4th node branch bracket. [According to GWeasy's Schwazzing, the emerging 4th node should be topped leaving only the bottom three brackets to remain, and have all growth below the bottom bracket removed as any appears?]
I believe that from this 48-day (6.86 week old veg.) that I'll feed it 20-20-20 tomorrow, and keep on with 20-20-20 until the buds start to form. In our neighborhood, that begins July 22, when the daylight hours are 13:59 min. All plants will begin to go to flowering, except mine will linger on with 20-20-20 feedings for awhile, trying to build that Bigger Root Ball, before I change to Jack's 10-30-20 bloom nutes. "No roots....no fruits!" Does this seem like a sound plan?View attachment 4168352 View attachment 4168351
Im not sure how wide youll be able to train those. I assume you dont have 2 doors at oppisite ends on the green house? Lookin like its already not real easy to walk around and access all the girls as is. Are you a fan of the cages? Ive heard nothin but bad things. Personally i use wire, bamboo, and twisty ties
 

Miyagismokes

Well-Known Member
Im not sure how wide youll be able to train those. I assume you dont have 2 doors at oppisite ends on the green house? Lookin like its already not real easy to walk around and access all the girls as is. Are you a fan of the cages? Ive heard nothin but bad things. Personally i use wire, bamboo, and twisty ties
Cages aren't so bad. HIS cages are the type of fence I hate to use, though. I have scars on my arms from cages like that.
If I had a choice, I'd use cages because setup is easier.
Right now I'm using bamboo and plastic trellis net, which is also easy but that shit gets caught on EVERYTHING.
 

hydra-glide

Well-Known Member
True, only one door in and out. I'm thinking that I'll let the branches grow out of the cage and then use cushion-wire to make it's own bracket attaching to the cage top area and bending over to an outside branch and super-crop those branches to make right angles, so they stan about 2" away from the outside top of the cage and grow upwards from there.
These plants are from seeds provided by a care-giver from an Indian reservation, where USA federal constraints have their limits affecting their sovereign nation. The fatter leaf plants are: Superwrecker N-cut x (Mauritius x Ethiopian). The narrow-leaf plants are: Super Silver Haze x (Mauritius x Ethiopian).
[I have one niggling problem that needs bold experimentation. Someone here mentioned that, "moving plants during veg is not a problem, but flowering plants don't like to be moved".]
I would like to offer that, in a greenhouse the light is more or less evenly distributed. These plants are on 18" diameter caster-platforms. I wheeled the plants around during flowering last season and didn't find any plants complaining, or going "herme" on me, so I'm wondering, in a greenhouse is it okay to roll plants or spin them towards the sun? I'm not physically picking them up. So do I get a pass?
I'm experimenting with 4-pane and 6-pane cage openings. I've found that making 6-pane access holes on the opposite side of the "Y" yoke gives me ample room to reach-in and spray under leaves, remove leaves, etc. I like it. As for the skin-rips, I've used RTV to coat all bitter-ends of wire, that are indeed sharp as razor blades. p.s. I've been spraying 3N1 once every 6-days and have not seen as much as one aphid egg or mite, or anything crawling or flying. It's like my pest control is on automatic.
Here's the pics. Rnd7.9.JPG Rnd7.8.JPG Rnd7.10.JPG . See the four wraps of cushion wire intermittently place around the bottom cage perimeter? They act as sound deaden'ers, so when the cage is drag-rolled across the concrete, it doesn't sound like a metal garbage can being drug to the curb. :)
The 2" casters are hard rubber and on their 2nd season. Best price, Prime-shipped
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G5Y63OQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
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