Cross breeding undercurrent and fogponics
- Thread starter shawnery
- Start date
If he is recirculating, the brass parts will still get wet and corrode over time.
Not sure if that was a serious question or not, but two basic things work together to determine droplet size and flow rate - orifice size, and the pressure. I think all of the websites I linked to have charts for the different nozzles that show droplet size range and flow rates at different pressures. You may have to dig a bit to find it.
shawnery
Well-Known Member
Brass isn't going to get more wet from recirculating than from the mist spraying in the air?
By the way, my aero clones are growing with nothing but water, silica and pool shock for sterility. Is this normal for the leaves to grow some? I'm also getting some twisting of the leaves.
By the way, my aero clones are growing with nothing but water, silica and pool shock for sterility. Is this normal for the leaves to grow some? I'm also getting some twisting of the leaves.
dstroy
Well-Known Member
It’s orifice size, geometry, and system pressure.
All those different spray patterns are from different nozzle shapes, each with their own considerations. Sometimes they use different methods to achieve the correct droplet size, for instance an impingement nozzle won’t achieve correct droplet size outside of a narrow nominal pressure window and will have larger than desired droplet size immediately after turn on and off every time.
A little moisture on the brass body of the nozzle wont cause any issues, unless your using neat nitric acid
Running high pressure water through a brass orifice will erode it pretty rapidly hence they use stainless steel for the core because its harder wearing. All nozzles are subject to erosion so no matter what material is used they all wear out eventually
shawnery
Well-Known Member
It was a serious question because compared to what I paid for the ones I bought those are super pricey, not that they're not worth it. The question was can you get nozzles that are worthy of the project but aren't worth their weight in gold?
And then I would also ask how does one .012 orifice different than another .012 orifice in terms of spray nozzles getting clogged? I can only assume it comes down to tolerances?
As dstroy said, it depends on the nozzle. Assuming an equal orifice size, an impingement nozzle is less likely to clog because it consists of a hole that produces a jet of water that is converted into droplets as it impacts on the pin. Standard nozzles typically turn the flow through 90 degrees inside the nozzle. some swirl/vane types split it into 2 or 4 seperate streams inside the nozzle and turn it 90 degrees before it exits the orifice. Something else to consider is the brass patio nozzles are a one piece unit. It makes them very difficult / impossible to unclog compared to a 2 or 3 piece nozzle you can take apart.
shawnery
Well-Known Member
So my two nozzles per bucket will be at the long end of each tote which will roughly be 5" from the plants root mass. I've noticed a lot of systems dont spray water directly at the roots but either up from the bottom or down from the top between root masses. Is there concern spraying mist directly at the roots or is direct misting ok?
shawnery
Well-Known Member
Got an idea for a diy pre-filter for the inlet hose before the hpa pump.
3" net cup with 3" neoprene insert and a few pair of pantyhose around the net cup. With multiple layers of unstretched pantyhose that should be low micron size I would assume.
Just place the 1/4" inlet hose through the middle of the insert, like a clone, and let it suck.
Good idea, bad idea?
3" net cup with 3" neoprene insert and a few pair of pantyhose around the net cup. With multiple layers of unstretched pantyhose that should be low micron size I would assume.
Just place the 1/4" inlet hose through the middle of the insert, like a clone, and let it suck.
Good idea, bad idea?
shawnery
Well-Known Member
I'm confused. It's running at 100psi with .012" orifice and I can't even feel the water hit my hand.
Why is it to wet? Trying to understand how I've met all the check boxes but yet it's not fine enough?
I would be running it on a timer once the plants go in if that is the issue?
Why is it to wet? Trying to understand how I've met all the check boxes but yet it's not fine enough?
I would be running it on a timer once the plants go in if that is the issue?
shawnery
Well-Known Member
I was wondering.
Should I keep the net pot whole or cut the lower half off like I did in the cloner?
I'm also wondering if you think I should run a "hammock" above the water so the roots lay on it but water falls through, I'd use thin flexible styrofoam sheets, or just let the bottom 2" of roots sit in undercurrent?
Should I keep the net pot whole or cut the lower half off like I did in the cloner?
I'm also wondering if you think I should run a "hammock" above the water so the roots lay on it but water falls through, I'd use thin flexible styrofoam sheets, or just let the bottom 2" of roots sit in undercurrent?
DangerDavez
Well-Known Member
Never seen a good fog grow. HPA on the other hand is great. Pretty simple too. I have a Mistking setup and it works flawlessly. Even came with a short cycle timer which can cost hundreds itself. If you haven't invested yet maybe check it out. Much easier than sourcing everything out.
shawnery
Well-Known Member
Transfering from lpa cloner to undercurrent/hpa system in the next couple days since they're starting to run out of room in the cloner.
Why are cycle timers so expensive? I just got one that has more than enough adjustment for under 20 bucks. Been using it on my lpa cloner until I transfer them to the main system.
Thanks!
Why are cycle timers so expensive? I just got one that has more than enough adjustment for under 20 bucks. Been using it on my lpa cloner until I transfer them to the main system.
Thanks!
