Pictures of your DIY lights - Post your pics!!!

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1212ham

Well-Known Member
GreeneryBob said:
I hope that people emulating this are careful. Butt splices are frowned upon by many electricians in most circumstances as they are less reliable and certainly less servicable than other methods of joining wires. From the picture it seems that the crimping tool used was for non-insulated crimps, yet the connectors are insulated; also keep in mind that butt splices are designed to join two wires together as opposed to four. Be safe and do 'tug tests' on the wires before heat shrinking. Have fun and stay safe out there!
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Properly done, crimped connections are very reliable and widely used in all manner of equipment, including aviation.
I certainly agree on the tug test though, the military has specs for it. A tug or pull test is always part of a proper crimp!
 
GreeneryBob

GreeneryBob

Well-Known Member
1212ham said:
Properly done, crimped connections are very reliable and widely used in all manner of equipment, including aviation.
I certainly agree on the tug test though, the military has specs for it. A tug or pull test is always part of a proper crimp!
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Properly done yes. Done by someone just learning to wire things up using relatively high DC voltages? Perhaps Wagos would be more suitable for most people to start.
 
ANC

ANC

Well-Known Member
GreeneryBob said:
I hope that people emulating this are careful. Butt splices are frowned upon by many electricians in most circumstances as they are less reliable and certainly less servicable than other methods of joining wires. From the picture it seems that the crimping tool used was for non-insulated crimps, yet the connectors are insulated; also keep in mind that butt splices are designed to join two wires together as opposed to four. Be safe and do 'tug tests' on the wires before heat shrinking. Have fun and stay safe out there!
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I recommend flowing some solder into the open ends once you are happy with all your connections...
I'm at the level of PCB design, so I guess I take more liberties.
 
pulpoinspace

pulpoinspace

Well-Known Member
lastest build. for a 3'x3'x6.5' tent. 4 hlg qb96elitev2 on sstx heatsinks. ran on HLG-600h-54v remote mounted. dimmed to 66%. frame, 80/20, 24"x24". QB centerpoints are 9" from the tent and 18" from eachother. planning to upgrade the frame and run the same fixture with the pot all the way up in a 4'x4' later.
IMG_1598.JPG
 
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Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
pulpoinspace said:
lastest build. for a 3'x3'x6.5' tent. 4 hlg qb96elitev2 on sstx heatsinks. ran on HLG-600h-54v remote mounted. dimmed to 66%. frame, 80/20, 24"x24". QB centerpoints are 9" from the tent and 18" from eachother. planning to upgrade the frame and run the same fixture with the pot all the way up in a 4'x4' later.
View attachment 4224582
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That's a really slick build man. I wish I had 80/20 lying around or at least that it wasn't so incredibly expensive. I wouldn't mind using it.
 
S

shimz

Well-Known Member
ANC said:
I recommend flowing some solder into the open ends once you are happy with all your connections...
I'm at the level of PCB design, so I guess I take more liberties.
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Yes! Crimp AND solder. If it's good enough for NASA it's good enough for our lights. Wago should not be used outside an enclosure.
 
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