DiY LEDs - How to Power Them

[Randomblame]

5 on 1750 right do you think it would be enough to light up 2x 3x3s ? thank you

5 vero29 would need a little more than 183v when you switch the light on but it should fit with the 1750mA version because of its higher open circuit voltage. As soon as the COB's warm up the voltage will be reduced by at least 0,5v on each COB.
So from my POV it should work!

 

[Randomblame]

@chatoo123 this is the only way to adjust the smart driver from inventronics. To be used with a pot it has to be a resistance dimmer driver and it isnt. Theres three companies that carry them futreelectronics out of Canada and two others.

The only places I could find the driver that will ship to usa.
View attachment 4245174

Without this the driver can not be changed. They have an older programmer part number Sdd-aapnp I have a prg-mul2 on it's way now. You can set voltage and current. Without it whatever the driver is set at now can not be adjusted in anyway. Good luck.

Hmm! The rapidled dimmer is made for 0-10 or 1-10v dimming but its not programmable. If this drivers are not made to adjust the current "on the fly" it can not work. I the vid its shown that one needs to save the settings first before they get applied to the driver. So without a "save settings button" it can not work with the rapidled dimmer.
Thanks for sharing that info, bro!

 

[whytewidow]

Hmm! The rapidled dimmer is made for 0-10 or 1-10v dimming but its not programmable. If this drivers are not made to adjust the current "on the fly" it can not work. I the vid its shown that one needs to save the settings first before they get applied to the driver. So without a "save settings button" it can not work with the rapidled dimmer.
Thanks for sharing that info, bro!

After you program it, you write the file to to the driver. And after you set it to 1-10v dimming you can use a 1-10v dimmer like rapidleds. But from the factory they wont work. And you can never use just regular resistance dimmer. Like a reg 100k pot. Bc thry are not resistant dimming drivers. Like meanwell they are 1-10v dimming, pwm, and resistance dimming.

 

[The Dawg]

You Can Manuel Dim A Inventronics Driver By Using An Audio Pot And An 100k Resistor

 

[exoticcloud]

To adjust that driver you have to buy a inventronics programmer. That hooks up between the driver and a computer. The software is free from their website. The part number for the programmer is PRG-MUL2 comes with USB cable to hook up the programmer. A pot will not work. I called inventronics yesterday. And the rapidled dimmer wont work either. If type in Inventronics programmer prg-mul2 in YouTube itll show you how to adjust it once you get the programmer.

View attachment 4245159

@chatoo123 this is the only way to adjust the smart driver from inventronics. To be used with a pot it has to be a resistance dimmer driver and it isnt. Theres three companies that carry them futreelectronics out of Canada and two others.

The only places I could find the driver that will ship to usa.
View attachment 4245174

Without this the driver can not be changed. They have an older programmer part number Sdd-aapnp I have a prg-mul2 on it's way now. You can set voltage and current. Without it whatever the driver is set at now can not be adjusted in anyway. Good luck.

Hi how are the prices going for these drivers compared to meanwell, are they also that efficient as mw? can you program slow sunset and sunrise dimming through pc? thank you

 

[whytewidow]

At half current a double row F strip still needs ~45v. You have 24sft or 2,2m2 and you need at least 30 - 35w per sft. So 720-840w total.
A Meanwell HLG-240H-48A or B would have 5,2amps (and is the model with the best price : performance rating) and with 5 strips in parallel each strip would run with 1040mA(probably with up to 1100mA because this driver can go up to 280w). So 3 HLG-240H-48B and 15 double row 4ft F-strips would fit perfect. And you would have one 4ft strip each 4inch which means you'll get incredible uniform distribution with only 4-6" distance if you want.
Running F-series at half current means the diodes run with only 60mA and thats even below test current for LM561c. You could simply use efficiency numbers for LM561c and forget F-strip datasheets.

At 1050mA each strip needs ~45v and would run with 49-50w. With 15 strips thats around 750w net and probably ~790w at the wall. System efficiency should be ~2,4μMol/J(Watt) incl. driver loss(6%) so the total output(PPF) should be ~1800μMol/s. 6x4' is roughly ~2,16m² so the PPFD would be ~830μMol/s/m². The calculated numbers you see usually with 10-12" distance to the canopy. With more distance the intensity is reduced and with less distance you can measure higher values. Pretty sure at 6" you would have ~1000μMol/s across the whole area.

For system and design simulations Sammy has two calculator tools available; one for single diodes and one for their LED engines.

http://www.samsung.com/global/business/led/support/tools/calculator-pkg

http://www.samsung.com/led/support/tools/engine-calculator/

Makes it a lot easier to plan a fixture and you get at least a few more numbers to work with. You can convert the lumen output of 3000°k F-strips by 69 to get and idea of the total PPF. I recommend to order a cheap 12-15$ luxmeter from e3ay/am4zon they are perfect for height and dimmer adjustment and for spot measurings. Simply divide the readings by 69 and you have it converted to μMol/s/m²

Here is a screeny another user posted last year. It contains the most important data for LM561c include the conversion factor(PPF fact) for each LM561c spectrum(thanks @wietefras ) and the 3000°k is the most efficient spectrum for veg & bloom cycle.

So, bro! No bleeding brain anymore, lol!
With 3 HLG-240's and 15pcs 4ft double row F-strips you are well prepared for the next few years. For cooling you can simple use aluminum c-channel. Click my signature and have a closer look on my 400w strip/COB/UVB fixture. C or U-channels you can get pretty cheap and at 60mA per diode you could also get away using just 2mm aluminum sheets.

View attachment 4245688

15 strips on 3 Hlg240s would be a beast of a light on 4" centers. I went 5" centers on mine and I think its gonna flower awesomely. I appreciate all the help late last night/early this morning.

 

[whytewidow]

You Can Manuel Dim A Inventronics Driver By Using An Audio Pot And An 100k Resistor

View attachment 4245758

So in the first diagram where does the resistor go? But doing it this way you cant adjust voltage too. Only current. Even with the programmer you can adjust current. The voltage adjust itself as you adjust current. Which is expected. Good find though. What type of audio pot do you recommend. I have a eug150 driver. I can try it to see if it really works. Bc I called inventronics and they told me the only way to dim them is with the programmer. I mean they could be saying that so you buy a programmer from them. But with the programmer you can set so many different settings using the software. But I'd like to see if it will dim. Bc mine is set at 4400mA right now from the factory. Running like 34vdc maxes out at 5600mA

 

[whytewidow]

Hi how are the prices going for these drivers compared to meanwell, are they also that efficient as mw? can you program slow sunset and sunrise dimming through pc? thank you

They are like 90-94% efficient run at close to max load. And price point is about 2/3 the price of meanwell per driver. And you can set you sunrise and sunset to however long or short you want. You can also dim up at power on if you wanted. Just like sunrise. Power on at say 10% and set for every 15 mins it goes up 10% until your at you setting of whatever you set the power too. And do the same for off. Start day an hour before lights off. Every 15 mins drop 10% dimming then off.... I'm only using it bc I got it for free. I wouldnt jump on buying any until we know for sure it will dim like @The Dawg said. Bc ig ig doesnt work you have to have the programmer. But if you're wanting to use the sunrise and sunset settings you'll need the controller anyway.

 

[The Dawg]

Heres A Shot Of Mine

https://www.parts-express.com/100k-audio-taper-potentiometer-1-4-shaft--023-616

 

[whytewidow]

Heres A Shot Of Mine

https://www.parts-express.com/100k-audio-taper-potentiometer-1-4-shaft--023-616


View attachment 4245796

Well there you go I didnt know you had already done. That's awesome @The Dawg tyvm for proving me right. I kindve figured when inventronics told me that the only way to do it was with "THEIR" controller. Any chance you can tell me what kindve pot you used.

Edit: sry didnt see the link you posted. I got so excited that it can be done I over read your post and went straight to the picture. Tyvm man.

 

[Snypie]

I want to power 4 Zeus XT board:

https://www.led-tech.de/en/ZEUS-308-XT-High-Performance-KIT-3500k

The seller recommends to use a Meanwell hlg 480h 42a driver on paralell wiring. If my math is ok this is 2850 mA per board.
I want to use this max at 2000-2100 mA in flowering. In veg around 1000 mA. I want to use an external potentiometer.
Should i use paralell wiring? As i read i should avoid using it.
So what kind of driver do you recommend? Can i do this with 1 driver or do i need 2?

 

[topcatc]

At half current a double row F strip still needs ~45v. You have 24sft or 2,2m2 and you need at least 30 - 35w per sft. So 720-840w total.
A Meanwell HLG-240H-48A or B would have 5,2amps (and is the model with the best price : performance rating) and with 5 strips in parallel each strip would run with 1040mA(probably with up to 1100mA because this driver can go up to 280w). So 3 HLG-240H-48B and 15 double row 4ft F-strips would fit perfect. And you would have one 4ft strip each 4inch which means you'll get incredible uniform distribution with only 4-6" distance if you want.
Running F-series at half current means the diodes run with only 60mA and thats even below test current for LM561c. You could simply use efficiency numbers for LM561c and forget F-strip datasheets.

At 1050mA each strip needs ~45v and would run with 49-50w. With 15 strips thats around 750w net and probably ~790w at the wall. System efficiency should be ~2,4μMol/J(Watt) incl. driver loss(6%) so the total output(PPF) should be ~1800μMol/s. 6x4' is roughly ~2,16m² so the PPFD would be ~830μMol/s/m². The calculated numbers you see usually with 10-12" distance to the canopy. With more distance the intensity is reduced and with less distance you can measure higher values. Pretty sure at 6" you would have ~1000μMol/s across the whole area.

......

@Randomblame you are a legend! Thanks mate for that incredibly helpful response!!! It makes everything very clear - I was hoping to get away with just the 10 modules but I see that finding a driver to fit that will be pretty tricky - I'd have to start getting creative with combinations of series and parallel wiring I hate to ask for more after you have given so much already but I was wondering if you have any opinion about pacificlightconcepts - photo-boost-strip-light-engine the figures seem fantastic and they would maybe be cheaper than the F-series if I used 20 of them rather than 15 f-series and the spectrum may also be better (at least that's the claim.) (sorry can't post the actual link - I'm too green

 

[exoticcloud]

They are like 90-94% efficient run at close to max load. And price point is about 2/3 the price of meanwell per driver. And you can set you sunrise and sunset to however long or short you want. You can also dim up at power on if you wanted. Just like sunrise. Power on at say 10% and set for every 15 mins it goes up 10% until your at you setting of whatever you set the power too. And do the same for off. Start day an hour before lights off. Every 15 mins drop 10% dimming then off.... I'm only using it bc I got it for free. I wouldnt jump on buying any until we know for sure it will dim like @The Dawg said. Bc ig ig doesnt work you have to have the programmer. But if you're wanting to use the sunrise and sunset settings you'll need the controller anyway.

Thats awesome news, are the ones with optional diming standart models just like with mw? Hopefully the programmer can do it, controllers would be much more expensive right?

 

[Randomblame]

Well there you go I didnt know you had already done. That's awesome @The Dawg tyvm for proving me right. I kindve figured when inventronics told me that the only way to do it was with "THEIR" controller. Any chance you can tell me what kindve pot you used.

Edit: sry didnt see the link you posted. I got so excited that it can be done I over read your post and went straight to the picture. Tyvm man.

Its a different model, bro. Yours is an EUG(0-10v, PWM and time based dimming) @The Dawg 's is an EUC model which has different dimming options(probably like MW B series). I'm pretty sure yours can not be used in the same way; same like with MW's D1/D2 versions compared to B or AB.

 

[Randomblame]

@Randomblame you are a legend! Thanks mate for that incredibly helpful response!!! It makes everything very clear - I was hoping to get away with just the 10 modules but I see that finding a driver to fit that will be pretty tricky - I'd have to start getting creative with combinations of series and parallel wiring I hate to ask for more after you have given so much already but I was wondering if you have any opinion about pacificlightconcepts - photo-boost-strip-light-engine the figures seem fantastic and they would maybe be cheaper than the F-series if I used 20 of them rather than 15 f-series and the spectrum may also be better (at least that's the claim.) (sorry can't post the actual link - I'm too green

Let me have a look on those strips...
They look good and efficiency is pretty good at 700mA but I don't understand why he did not distribute the red diodes better. Depending on where you measure the spectrum you would have different amounts of red (especially at a short distance) and this could cause more stretch in the center area.
But efficiency is pretty good at 700mA(2,9μMol/j means ~2,7 at system level) and when you mount the strips offset you can even out this but I hate to make such compromises. You can of course use them but I don't believe it works out much cheaper in the end. To run them at 700mA(18,2w) you need at least 12 or 14 strips(2s6 or 7p) per HLG-240H-54(4,65A). With 2s6p each strip would get 775mA and with 7 in parallel it would be 665mA. You could use only 8 per driver in 2s4p and each strip would run with ~1160mA. 24 strips + 3 HLG-240H-54. 28$ per strip means 672$ and compared to 15pcs 4ft double row strips you would safe ~100bucks. But at ~1,4amps efficiency is already below 2,8(2,6 at system level) and F-strips running at only 1040mA{58mA per diode) would reach the same level of efficiency.
You could add a few better diodes than Cree XP-EHE; Osrams new Square series has 9% better efficiency at 350mA(66 vs 57%). And you can distribute them more evenly across the canopy instead of having just to vertical double rows. Over-all efficiency would increase even more if you add them separately. With 32 Osram Square in 16s2p and an HLG-40H-42(0,95A) you would have an excellent 40 deepred booster with ~4,0μMol/j efficiency(475mA per diode). But this would add another 130$ to the bill.
As you see, its possible to beat them even with F-strips but it costs a little more. In the end its your choice and depends on how much you are willing to pay for better efficiency. Higher upfront costs means it takes a bit longer to get your money back but at some point you'll start to make profit with better efficiency.

 

[topcatc]

Let me have a look on those strips...
They look good and efficiency is pretty good at 700mA but I don't understand why he did not distribute the red diodes better. Depending on where you measure the spectrum you would have different amounts of red (especially at a short distance) and this could cause more stretch in the center area.
But efficiency is pretty good at 700mA(2,9μMol/j means ~2,7 at system level) and when you mount the strips offset you can even out this but I hate to make such compromises. You can of course use them but I don't believe it works out much cheaper in the end. To run them at 700mA(18,2w) you need at least 12 or 14 strips(2s6 or 7p) per HLG-240H-54(4,65A). With 2s6p each strip would get 775mA and with 7 in parallel it would be 665mA. You could use only 8 per driver in 2s4p and each strip would run with ~1160mA. 24 strips + 3 HLG-240H-54. 28$ per strip means 672$ and compared to 15pcs 4ft double row strips you would safe ~100bucks. But at ~1,4amps efficiency is already below 2,8(2,6 at system level) and F-strips running at only 1040mA{58mA per diode) would reach the same level of efficiency.
You could add a few better diodes than Cree XP-EHE; Osrams new Square series has 9% better efficiency at 350mA(66 vs 57%). And you can distribute them more evenly across the canopy instead of having just to vertical double rows. Over-all efficiency would increase even more if you add them separately. With 32 Osram Square in 16s2p and an HLG-40H-42(0,95A) you would have an excellent 40 deepred booster with ~4,0μMol/j efficiency(475mA per diode). But this would add another 130$ to the bill.
As you see, its possible to beat them even with F-strips but it costs a little more. In the end its your choice and depends on how much you are willing to pay for better efficiency. Higher upfront costs means it takes a bit longer to get your money back but at some point you'll start to make profit with better efficiency.

Thanks again - you've put my mind at ease! I'll go for the F series - they are easier to get hold of as well. I'll post some pics and sensor readings when I get it set up, just in case others may be interested in how it turns out. You rock - cheers dude! T

 

[Vd22]

Thanks again - you've put my mind at ease! I'll go for the F series - they are easier to get hold of as well. I'll post some pics and sensor readings when I get it set up, just in case others may be interested in how it turns out. You rock - cheers dude! T

Yeah man, mad respect for @Randomblame he's helped me so fuckin much. He probably doesn't even know haha. They're 2 other who deserve a shout out, i just dont remember their names, sorry guys im a scumbag haha

 

[ANC]

 

[chatoo123]

Yes

Hi how are the prices going for these drivers compared to meanwell, are they also that efficient as mw? can you program slow sunset and sunrise dimming through pc? thank you

Hi exoticcloud yes it says you can set all the sunrise sunset and at the end of 12 on I think u can set it for a far red 15 min. I think??? Hey if anyone interested in trading 2 inventronics EUD-240-320dt 107 vts max 2.8 amps max 3 in one dimming... I need some mean well drivers

 

[chatoo123]

@chatoo123 this is the only way to adjust the smart driver from inventronics. To be used with a pot it has to be a resistance dimmer driver and it isnt. Theres three companies that carry them futreelectronics out of Canada and two others.

The only places I could find the driver that will ship to usa.
View attachment 4245174

Without this the driver can not be changed. They have an older programmer part number Sdd-aapnp I have a prg-mul2 on it's way now. You can set voltage and current. Without it whatever the driver is set at now can not be adjusted in anyway. Good luck.

THANKS SO MUCH!!!! Wytewidow I couldn't figure it out at all heck I bought 3 0-10 volt dimmers like 10 100k pots. And 2 of the 0-10volt ones that have a knob an you gotta power it...