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Fawkes420

Well-Known Member
Yeah, that sounds much better.
I'm planning to run my new strips at 75% (1050mA) like i did with the 1-footers.Does that sounds ok?
Guess i'll need heatsinks for that?
What would be max to run without heatsinks?

Also, What % would you run the side strips at?
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Randomblame
the ones I linked are white spectrum cob's though, not purple lights, and I have no idea what QB's are or which qb light to buy for around 4 plants, I tried asking about these lights but I don't think anyone answered, and idk how to make my self one, I wouldn't even know what parts to buy, the only way I see my self making my own light is if there's a good YouTube video on it. Is not that I want to go the cheap way, I'm trying figure out how to get the best quality for the money and still learning. hps gets way too hot imo
I'm planning to run my new strips at 75% (1050mA) like i did with the 1-footers.Does that sounds ok?
Guess i'll need heatsinks for that?
What would be max to run without heatsinks?

Also, What % would you run the side strips at?


Bridgelux EBgen2 series can run with no heat sinks also at 1050mA because the diodes run pretty low(43,25mA at 700mA and 87,5mA at 1,4A). This means you need only a frame with one crossbar. This way each strip has 3 mounting points(front end, middle & back end) and that's all they need.


This test with and without heat sinks is from less efficient EBgen1 series. You can expect ~5°C less with EBgen2.
catch_media_20180919-123240.jpg


@Alien87
You can get them from digikey or arrow. Below is a link. Maybe you need to change the website language; in the case copy the part-number, change language and enter the number in the search engine to find the strips again.
There is also a tool to find all EB strips. Chose Bridgelux and EB series gen2 and the tool shows all the listed EB strips. Digikey has also Samsung strips which are even better and more efficient. The H-influx series for instance but they are more expensive. Q and F-series are also interesting!
DIY means you pay between 0,75 and ±1,5$ per watt depending on degree of efficiency you want to reach. Click the link in my signature to see an example of a more expensive 2$/w version of a DIY strip build. It's actually a strip/COB/Mono + UV combo but completely DIY and I'm neither an electrician nor a metalworker.

This are 3500°k 2footers but you can also get them in 4ft. length (40v driver) or a small as 1ft.(20v driver). 3500°k is a good all in one spectrum and can be use for veg and flowering stage and like the 1 footers they need a 20v driver.

https://www.digikey.de/product-detail/de/bridgelux/BXEB-L0560Z-35E2000-C-B3/976-1734-ND/7907663

EBgen2 are pretty efficient and can grow some dank ass weed. For how-to's visit LEDgardeners website. He explains everything very well so even the dumbest noob can understand it. It's actually pretty easy cuz you need only to plug in a few wires, screw all the part together and bam! It lits up fecken bright!


These strips need a parallel connection and a 20v driver. An HLG-240H-20(A or B, B means dimmable) has 12,5amps so with 12 strips each strip would run with ~1050mA. So you need a 2x 2' frame, 12 EBgen2 strips and an Meanwell HLG-240H-20 to build your own 265w LED light. Maybe 170lm/w or 2,35μMol/J. No heat sinks required!
Strips will stay around 50°C maybe(depends on ambient temps) and you would have a light weight fixture. Such a light would be enough for a 2,5 x 2,5' or a 4 x 2' area and is comparable to 400w HPS.


Here is a link to the Bridgelux strip build tool but you can also find F-series or other strips and how-to's for COB based lights. Actually you can find all you need to know about LED's, LED modules like strips and COB's and all about LED drivers, especially Meanwell.

http://ledgardener.com/tag/bridgelux/
 
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Fawkes420

Well-Known Member
@Randomblame Sounds great! I want to have a lightweight rig.
Somewhere back in my head i think i've read something about not having too long wireing from driver to strips, is it so? Thinking of having my driver outside tent and not adding weight to light fixture or is it no no?

Also, i have a 100x100cm tent, that means i have spaceat the ends of the strips (220mm each side). Would it be any pros of mounting strips in a zig-zag pattern to get better coverage (see pic) or is it godd anyway?
Screenshot 2019-02-21 at 17.47.04 - Edited.png
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
@Randomblame Sounds great! I want to have a lightweight rig.
Somewhere back in my head i think i've read something about not having too long wireing from driver to strips, is it so? Thinking of having my driver outside tent and not adding weight to light fixture or is it no no?

Also, i have a 100x100cm tent, that means i have spaceat the ends of the strips (220mm each side). Would it be any pros of mounting strips in a zig-zag pattern to get better coverage (see pic) or is it godd anyway?
View attachment 4287290

No probs with a zig-zag pattern, bro! Would work!
But I would leave the widest gap between the strips in the middle and mount them with less distance to the next on the outer ends of the fixture. This way you get a more even coverage and less center hotspot which allows you to reduce the distance. Install a lux meter app on your smartphone and create a PAR map; then play with the distance between the strips untill you get 80% uniform readings across the whole canopy. Maybe a 6" gap in the center and 2-3" gaps on the outer ends... call it logarithmic strip layout if you want. With 10 strips and 1m²(9sft) you need only 6" distance to the tops. No need to mention, you will get pretty high PAR numbers with such a low distance!

And the wiring (strip connectors to Wago's) should be done with single core AWG18 wires and to connect the driver to the fixture(first Wago's) I would just use the same diameter coming out of the driver.
An HLG-240H-20A or B for instance would have AWG14 wires on the dc side so I would recommend to use the same diameter for the "bridge wire" to connect the driver to the fixture.
To really see a voltage droop it needs more than 2 or 3yds even with AWG18 and even more length with thicker wires. There are lots of online resistance calculator tools available where you can check if your choosen wire would cause a voltage droop or not but with less than 20ft length you could also use AWG16 or even 18 without getting a considerable droop.
When you use the same diameter coming out of the driver you're to 99% on the safe side. Wire length of 50yds and more are pretty rare and with only 2 or 5yds there is almost no droop even with AWG18.
 

Fawkes420

Well-Known Member
Thanks!
I have a lux meter. Is there a formel to get PAR from LUX?

I have 18 AWG between wagos and 13 AWG from driver. Driver was 3x14AWG so that's cool.

Tent is 100x100 and i thinking of making the fixture about 90cm wide. I'll have 15 strips mounted and if i mount them evenly it should be around 4,3cm between strips (6,7cm between led diod).
 

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
Thanks!
I have a lux meter. Is there a formel to get PAR from LUX?

I have 18 AWG between wagos and 13 AWG from driver. Driver was 3x14AWG so that's cool.

Tent is 100x100 and i thinking of making the fixture about 90cm wide. I'll have 15 strips mounted and if i mount them evenly it should be around 4,3cm between strips (6,7cm between led diod).
With a fixture that big in. 1 m tent: remember to think thru how youre going to raise or lower it, have you got access from all sides or another idea?
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Thanks!
I have a lux meter. Is there a formel to get PAR from LUX?

I have 18 AWG between wagos and 13 AWG from driver. Driver was 3x14AWG so that's cool.

Tent is 100x100 and i thinking of making the fixture about 90cm wide. I'll have 15 strips mounted and if i mount them evenly it should be around 4,3cm between strips (6,7cm between led diod).
With the 3500°k strips you can use factor 71 to get μMol/s/m².

And to hang up the fixture I would recommemd rope ratchets, 2pcs would hold the fixture easily (each holds up to 75lbs) and mounted in the center on two sides of the frame they would both be accessable from the front side. Easy way to adjust the height and when you measure and mark exactly the center spot for the hocks that would keep the fixture always horizontally.
 

Fawkes420

Well-Known Member
Thanks!
Got this link, guess i can follow their chart? - https://www.apogeeinstruments.com/conversion-ppfd-to-lux/
And i got rope ratchet to rise and lower ;)

Man, this is fun.
As you might remember i mentioned that i have some 1-footers left so this is in fact my second build.
Feels like i the first time just got lucky with the setup thinking of PAR etc etc. Just hooked it up and hoped all was going well, lol.

Now i feel i slooowly getting hold of it thanks to all help i get here ;)
 
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Fawkes420

Well-Known Member
Found this on the net - https://www.waveformlighting.com/horticulture/convert-lux-to-ppfd-online-calculator

EB2 has 80 CRI which is considered as low? According to this guide - https://www.flexfireleds.com/color-rendering-index-cri-and-led-lighting-what-is-cri/,,,
"- Lights with a CRI that is measured greater than 80 are considered to be more than acceptable for most applications.
- Lights with a CRI that is measured greater than 90 is generally considered “High CRI” lights.".

So,,,, if i load 40000 lux and "low cri led 3500k" in the calculator in the first link i'll get 641.48 umol/s/m2.
But if i take 641,48*71 i get 45545?
 
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GreeneryBob

Well-Known Member
Sounds good! Any links?
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1538/8585/files/20181108_ilumi_MeshTek_0-10V_Horticultural_LC_User_Manual_V1-9.pdf?9791823653436750319

HLG includes a single channel controller on some kits but ilumi sells 4 channel 0-10v units directly and will be adding them to mouser and other retailers soon. Mouser already has older models and a 4 channel pwm driving unit for RGB lighting.

the contact number for ordering is: 888 502 0575

they are a few pennies shy of $40 each
 
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Sir420

Active Member
Sir420 checking in with the rest of the LED fanatics here Im also into the DiY builds & have been studying for months now to be able to say I have a little understanding of building my own light! My priority is efficiency over everything. I think the most efficient light is to get lm301b strips from DIGIKEY and I am trying to create a 5x5 space light with 8-900 ppf at top of canopy. My frame will be almost wall to wall to spread even light & my GOAL is to make this fixture reach the highest ppfd with the lowest amount of watts possible. They say use 480 watts in 4x4 but I seen a guy pull over 2lb with only 364watts! ... So with the most efficient lights on the market (lm301b) can I make that 2lb with like 330-350 watts??
 

coreywebster

Well-Known Member
Sir420 checking in with the rest of the LED fanatics here Im also into the DiY builds & have been studying for months now to be able to say I have a little understanding of building my own light! My priority is efficiency over everything. I think the most efficient light is to get lm301b strips from DIGIKEY and I am trying to create a 5x5 space light with 8-900 ppf at top of canopy. My frame will be almost wall to wall to spread even light & my GOAL is to make this fixture reach the highest ppfd with the lowest amount of watts possible. They say use 480 watts in 4x4 but I seen a guy pull over 2lb with only 364watts! ... So with the most efficient lights on the market (lm301b) can I make that 2lb with like 330-350 watts??
Not sure, I know a lot of folks would say its impossible, Ive done it with 520w in a 4x4 and I thought I was doing pretty good.
I see a few folks tossing about 2gpw like its a easy achievement. I don't think it is easy but not impossible.
I think some folks claim a lot these days without showing the evidence.
That said I would rather be positive and say try it and I hope you can hit that target, just log it all on here for all to see and leave no room for criticism on the weigh in.

Welcome to RIU btw.
 
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