Alibaba lm561c orders legit?

ApfelStrudel

Well-Known Member
Okay, I've mixed it up with the CV/CC drivers. But jt should work with 13 strips is series even with up to 1150mA.

But I've recognized another problem with long series connections.
I have an HLG-240H-C1050B which I have used with 6 Vero29gen6's and maximum was ~245w with 262w at the wall.
Later I wanted to use the same driver but for 20 2ft F-strips connected in a 10s2p series-parallel circuit.
Because of the maximum current of ~1130mA I've used 565mA to calculate the strips voltage( Sammy calculator and datasheet). According to the datasheet the voltage at 565mA should be around 22-22,2v(with lower case temps in mind, nominal kjs 23v@1120mA).
So normally 222v with 10 in series at 565mA but I don't got the calculated output with open dimmer wires. Instead of ~250w net and ~265 at the wall I only got ~217w at the wall. So don't know exactly whats going on here but maybe its because of the tiny connectors. Someone told me the strips would have a 50v limit but I've not found that mentioned in the datasheet. At least its not mentioned in C, H, Q or H-influx datasheets.
I've used the same 1,5mm² single core wire I've used for my other lights and it's the thickest diameter fitting inside the connectors. All connections are double checked three times and the driver was placed in an ventilated housing directly on the backside of the fixture. So wires between driver and first/last strip were also pretty short.
217 instead of 265w at the wall is a huge difference and even 20 of this tiny connectors in series should not cause such a big difference(I believe the are rated with 300v).
Would not try the driver anyway to compensate a certain voltage droop.. in a series circuit?
I've also tested the voltage of each parallel string, changed the strips back and forth and ended up with a difference below 0,1v. So one string has 222 and the other around 221,9v ... That's also not enough to cause such a big loss.

Can you say whats causing this issue?

13 strips per diver was my plan

What are you measuring power from the wall with? Same happens when I measure power draw on LPC drivers but not on HLG-120H-C1050B or HLG 150H-24A. Also with PLC drivers the device that measures power draw and also reads power factor is giving me strange readings on power factor. When measured on COBs I'm getting voltage and current right where it should be and my connections are more than adequate, definitely no losses there.
 

ApfelStrudel

Well-Known Member
This applestruddle or whatever his retarded name is dude is an idiot. Saying dc voltage wont hurt you. And he can hold 300+ volts in his bare hands all day well you go right ahead please. Bc it's called survival of the fittest. Hopefully she does her thing. You stupid fool. I'd bet you a complete new light owr every grow area says you cant hold a 320 cc driver. This is why I had this idiot blocked to begin with. It's people like this that get other people killed. Hopefully nature takes this one out before he gets someone hurt.
Jog on you fucktard
 

ApfelStrudel

Well-Known Member
This applestruddle or whatever his retarded name is dude is an idiot. Saying dc voltage wont hurt you. And he can hold 300+ volts in his bare hands all day well you go right ahead please. Bc it's called survival of the fittest. Hopefully she does her thing. You stupid fool. I'd bet you a complete new light owr every grow area says you cant hold a 320 cc driver. This is why I had this idiot blocked to begin with. It's people like this that get other people killed. Hopefully nature takes this one out before he gets someone hurt.
With master electricians like you no wonder half of california burned down last year. Now take your master degree and fuck off!
 

Sir420

Active Member
Sir420 checking in with the rest of the LED fanatics here Im also into the DiY builds & have been studying for months now to be able to say I have a little understanding of building my own light! My priority is efficiency over everything. I think the most efficient light is to get lm301b strips from DIGIKEY and I am trying to create a 5x5 space light with 8-900 ppf at top of canopy. My frame will be almost wall to wall to spread even light & my GOAL is to make this fixture reach the highest ppfd with the lowest amount of watts possible. They say use 480 watts in 4x4 but I seen a guy pull over 2lb with only 364watts! ... So with the most efficient lights on the market (lm301b) can I make that 2lb with like 330-350 watts??
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Sir420 checking in with the rest of the LED fanatics here Im also into the DiY builds & have been studying for months now to be able to say I have a little understanding of building my own light! My priority is efficiency over everything. I think the most efficient light is to get lm301b strips from DIGIKEY and I am trying to create a 5x5 space light with 8-900 ppf at top of canopy. My frame will be almost wall to wall to spread even light & my GOAL is to make this fixture reach the highest ppfd with the lowest amount of watts possible. They say use 480 watts in 4x4 but I seen a guy pull over 2lb with only 364watts! ... So with the most efficient lights on the market (lm301b) can I make that 2lb with like 330-350 watts??
I find that incredibly far fetched, personally. Yer ass is gonna need about 8-900 watts in a 5X5.
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Sir420 checking in with the rest of the LED fanatics here Im also into the DiY builds & have been studying for months now to be able to say I have a little understanding of building my own light! My priority is efficiency over everything. I think the most efficient light is to get lm301b strips from DIGIKEY and I am trying to create a 5x5 space light with 8-900 ppf at top of canopy. My frame will be almost wall to wall to spread even light & my GOAL is to make this fixture reach the highest ppfd with the lowest amount of watts possible. They say use 480 watts in 4x4 but I seen a guy pull over 2lb with only 364watts! ... So with the most efficient lights on the market (lm301b) can I make that 2lb with like 330-350 watts??

You can expect getting 1,5-2g/w depending on efficiency and the strain used!
30-35w per sft for regular and feminized plants, 20-25w/sft with automatics. If you see peeps claiming to get almost 1000g out of only 364w LED that's nonsense or just a lie. Maybe in 6-10 years or so...
With automatics you can already get pretty high g/w results cause you can work with pretty low intensities which makes photosynthesis more efficient but almost 3g per watt....? Sounds unbelievable... All over 1,7 is awesome!!!

LM301b is only the 2nd best Sammy diode, LM301h is already a bin better. Nichia's 757v3f1 are also better..
Sammy has released their new horti strip series (coolwhite + deepreds) but they are currently not available. Q- and H-inFlux series use LM301b and are available on digikey or arrow.com.
But if you look for the best one available LED-tech.de has 0,5m long LM301b strips with 98 fu....' diodes, 7s14p, 2,8A max current, 202lm/w at 700mA and still ~175lm/w at max. current. That means properly cooled you can get more than 50w out of a 20inch strip and you would get +9000lm!!! At 700mA the strips run with ~13-14w and +2800lm!

14,90€ per strip but the more you take the cheaper they get! And the best thing is the strips can be cut in 14 36mm long pieces, each module with 7 diodes in series and 200mA max. current. This means you can build almost everything with them, even a bulb form would be possible and all you need to drive them is a HLG or ELG CV/CC driver(A modell) with 20 or 24v no matter how short you cut them. Long and short pieces could all run in parallel on one and the same driver.

For a 4x 4' area you could use 30 strips running at 700mA each and the strips mounted on a 1x 1m alu-frame with 15 cross bars. That's around 400€ for the strips and up to 410w net.
As drivers I would use 2 HLG-185H-20A or 2 ELG-200-20A (both 10A nom., 11A max) and run 15 strips in parallel per driver. You would have up to 450w at the wall cause all HLG/ELG drivers are slightly under rated. 400-420w net. maybe and +80.000lm!
It's currently the most efficient LM301b strip and compared to Sammy's H-influx L06(2ft. strip/88 diodes) they cost almost half as much.
I've already 2 of them for testing and they work really well... So well that I already think about ordering more and using them vertically as side lights to build a kind of sun cloak. I've already thought about selling my current light(~2,5-2,6μMol/J system efficiency) to build something better, lol!
 

Sir420

Active Member
@Randomblame

420 cheers bro thanks for the detailed reply really! I have been trying to put together the most efficient pieces & with so many options I doubt I came across the most efficient led to this date lol I will check out led tech for theirs! & So basically if I was trying to make a fixture wall to wall with ppfd at 8-900 & 12"-18" away from canopy I can buy 30 strips from led tech & 2 drivers at 185H-20A & this will do for 4x4 5x5? To produce 1.5/ 2g pw max
 

Getgrowingson

Well-Known Member
The frequency is gonna fuck with your heart, those 50/60Hz from mains. DC doesn't have frequency (in theory, this drivers run at much higher frequency that's not gonna mess with your heart). Besides you're not really standing in a grounded room with metal floor covered in water and bare foot while you're at it, now do you?
You haven’t got a clue bud
 

1212ham

Well-Known Member
Actually 48V can be fatal for a human being. Fuck it 9V battery will kill you too if you try to swallow it and it gets stuck in your throat.

I've been standing next to my coworker when we were reparing a laser cutter and that chump grabbed a live 30kV terminal and hit the grounded fence with his back at the same time. Some skin came off his back and it knocked him out alright.

You're right, it depends on the situation and like I mentioned before, we're not working barefoot in a room with grounded floor with water up to our knees. I'll hold that output of the driver all day long even at 300V. Once again, this is DC.
Because those are the drivers I ordered. You're scared of DC voltage? Do your homework and do some research kid. 300V DC isn't gonna hurt you. 30kV gonna give you some burn marks and a blackout but still wont kill you.
@ApfelStrudel, it really bothers me when you say something that could lead someone to make a dangerous or deadly mistake!

Can you explain why DC current is not deadly?

I've been hit with 5000 volts AC, does that mean AC is not deadly?
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
You can expect getting 1,5-2g/w depending on efficiency and the strain used!
30-35w per sft for regular and feminized plants, 20-25w/sft with automatics. If you see peeps claiming to get almost 1000g out of only 364w LED that's nonsense or just a lie. Maybe in 6-10 years or so...
With automatics you can already get pretty high g/w results cause you can work with pretty low intensities which makes photosynthesis more efficient but almost 3g per watt....? Sounds unbelievable... All over 1,7 is awesome!!!

LM301b is only the 2nd best Sammy diode, LM301h is already a bin better. Nichia's 757v3f1 are also better..
Sammy has released their new horti strip series (coolwhite + deepreds) but they are currently not available. Q- and H-inFlux series use LM301b and are available on digikey or arrow.com.
But if you look for the best one available LED-tech.de has 0,5m long LM301b strips with 98 fu....' diodes, 7s14p, 2,8A max current, 202lm/w at 700mA and still ~175lm/w at max. current. That means properly cooled you can get more than 50w out of a 20inch strip and you would get +9000lm!!! At 700mA the strips run with ~13-14w and +2800lm!

14,90€ per strip but the more you take the cheaper they get! And the best thing is the strips can be cut in 14 36mm long pieces, each module with 7 diodes in series and 200mA max. current. This means you can build almost everything with them, even a bulb form would be possible and all you need to drive them is a HLG or ELG CV/CC driver(A modell) with 20 or 24v no matter how short you cut them. Long and short pieces could all run in parallel on one and the same driver.

For a 4x 4' area you could use 30 strips running at 700mA each and the strips mounted on a 1x 1m alu-frame with 15 cross bars. That's around 400€ for the strips and up to 410w net.
As drivers I would use 2 HLG-185H-20A or 2 ELG-200-20A (both 10A nom., 11A max) and run 15 strips in parallel per driver. You would have up to 450w at the wall cause all HLG/ELG drivers are slightly under rated. 400-420w net. maybe and +80.000lm!
It's currently the most efficient LM301b strip and compared to Sammy's H-influx L06(2ft. strip/88 diodes) they cost almost half as much.
I've already 2 of them for testing and they work really well... So well that I already think about ordering more and using them vertically as side lights to build a kind of sun cloak. I've already thought about selling my current light(~2,5-2,6μMol/J system efficiency) to build something better, lol!
I've never heard of these awesome sounding strips before. I wish they were available in the US.
I would suggest highly using hug 240s, 320's or even a 600. Dimming is simple, but you can't get more wattage if the drivers not there to do it.
2800Max is crazy.
2X HLG-320H-20/24A drivers would push each strip at only around 900mA. So there's plenty of room to work with.
I'd be more inclined to use less and run them a bit harder. Around 1600-1800.
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
@Randomblame are they closer to 20 or 24V?

Wait Nvm.
18-21v. These are the answer to my problem I've had with 3ft heatsinks to out strips on. I could easily fit 7, 20v strips on the 143 available on the driver right on the 6" wide heatsink that's dual fan cooled. Reuse the 240-1750's and retire the 3590's to the other heatsinks ive got. I'd be close to the same lumens output, but way better spread.
Any way at all to get in US?
 
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Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
@Randomblame are they closer to 20 or 24V?

Wait Nvm.
18-21v. These are the answer to my problem I've had with 3ft heatsinks to out strips on. I could easily fit 7, 20v strips on the 143 available on the driver right on the 6" wide heatsink that's dual fan cooled. Reuse the 240-1750's and retire the 3590's to the other heatsinks ive got. I'd be close to the same lumens output, but way better spread.
Any way at all to get in US?
These ledtech strips are 50cm, so its hard to fit on 3 feet heatsinks (90 cm). Im also pretty sure they arent solderless, at least last time i checked.
 

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Ive been meaning to step up my game and get soldering, do you have any advice or resources on how to learn? Im specially interested in some advice regarding what soldering equipemeq to use, something good enough that doesnt cost hundreds and is available worldwide and not only stateside.
With a few BigClivedotcom bids on YouTube. He's great at soldering. But to learn how, is to "just do it". No other way or advice. Grab an old circuit board and start messing around.
 

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
With a few BigClivedotcom bids on YouTube. He's great at soldering. But to learn how, is to "just do it". No other way or advice. Grab an old circuit board and start messing around.
Thx! :)
Any recommendations for soldering station that wont fry the chips nor rape my wallet?
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Everyone I know that solder repeatedly uses a hakko.........make sure to exhaust/ventilate or do it outside .

Lead is easier than lead-free supposedly? No experience
Correct. Rosin Cored solder is a much easier experience too. I reccomend it highly. There's a guy on eBay that sells lengths of really good quality solder.

@Rocket Soul when you solder, it's all about applying it to the two things you wanted join, where you join them. This is called tinning. Then you simply bring them together and put the iron to the connection and they melt together.

Also go to your local Harbor Freight or similar hardware store and buy a set of "Helping Hands". They're so nice to have.
 
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