HLG-550 V2 clone with Mean Well HLG-480h-c2800AB driver

ChiefRunningPhist

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
spirtwolf said:
Got in touch with the company I bought it from. They are saying it was supposed to have came with the HLG-480h-48b driver
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Yep like @TEKNIK said, I'd try to get it replaced. Good luck. I tried to get a refund through trade assurance and was denied. This is different though, you're only wanting to exchange. Hopefully they will do what they are supposed to do and not make you pay for any of their fuck-up but these guys are shiesty, may the force be with you lol
 
TEKNIK

TEKNIK

Well-Known Member
If they try to charge you in anyway make it clear to them you will leave a terrible review. They hate bad reviews and it's worth it to them to cover all costs and let you keep the other driver.
 
ChiefRunningPhist

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
Airwalker16 said:
I was upfront about not knowing exactly what the AB version does. So you can dim current from 1400-2800 with it AND dim the light with a wired pot?
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Both 480h AB versions have dimming leads and built in POTs. So that's nice, can dim either way.

480h 48AB...
Screenshot_2019-04-06-21-54-12~2.png

480h 2800AB...
Screenshot_2019-04-06-21-55-30~2.png

I've never used a MW CV+CC driver, but it looks like it has both modes of operation, CV & CC. I'm guessing there's some sort of switch that toggles between the two? You could then use your PWM leads in both instances, but I'm not sure. Or perhaps you can set the Vo limit with the POT but the PWM leads control the current within that voltage range, I bet thats how it is. Lol idk how they work... so I probably shouldn't have tried to answer. HA! :bigjoint:
 
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TEKNIK

TEKNIK

Well-Known Member
They are the same as a normal driver, only difference is you can adjust the current or voltage like you do with an A series and you can also adjust the current like you do with a B series using the 1-10V leads
 
ChiefRunningPhist

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
TEKNIK said:
They are the same as a normal driver, only difference is you can adjust the current or voltage like you do with an A series and you can also adjust the current like you do with a B series using the 1-10V leads
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Ya I hear ya, I just didn't know if it was a concurrent operation, or seperate and controlled by a switch. And if it was concurrent, then which control superceded which, ie, was it CC being limited by a set V (?) so that you could turn up the current until it required more V than you adjusted Vo to, or was it CV being limited by a set I, so that you could turn up the voltage until it reached the point that it would flow the max current you adjusted Io to? That's what I was getting at.
 
TEKNIK

TEKNIK

Well-Known Member
With meanwells depending on the model they allow you to do a few things, the voltage adjustment is usually there so if you are running a series of lights in parallel you can set the maximum voltage incase there is a problem with one of the modules, they do this so the current will also limit at a certain voltage. You also have the option of current adjustment. I'm pretty sure with the AB series that you set the maximum current via the screw terminal then you can dim with the pot wires. All this DIY stuff should be alot more simple than what it is. There would only be a 2-3% sacrifice in efficiency to simplify it all. I think it's too dangerous for most people to be playing around with this stuff when they don't know what they are doing, but I can be paranoid about electrical fires.
 
ChiefRunningPhist

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
CobKits said:
definitely must be true then
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HA! I missed that.. Definitely not top bin @spirtwolf but they'll still grow the plants, but as for what they are telling you? Lies. All lies. Especially if it's Rita Fang, she can NOT be trusted. Buyer beware.

They are cheap. That is their value. They send under powered drivers for the setups and will lie to you about chip model amoung other things. Aside from that they are great lol, I won't buy again, but I'm triggered by dishonest sales (can you tell?), so that's just me. Good luck! :bigjoint:
 
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diyled

diyled

Well-Known Member
AB drivers have me interested.

Im wondering if the current output is the same as A types but with say a 110k pot, could you get that extra 10% out of the dimming leads. Best of both world then. Ill have to test them.
 
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Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
The CC region with this driver is 171v. As long as the circuit has less you can be sure to get its full current(2,8A).
The open circuit voltage is higher and is 210v but if you use more like 171v it is out of it CC region and you don't see the full 2,8A. But it should work because 194v is far below the cut off voltage of the protection circuit(~216-246v)

So you can wire these 4 boards in series and you should at least get 2,6A or 500w. Maybe up to 550w cuz all these HLG drivers can have up to 8% more current. When the boards starts blinking(shut down and retry) its too much and you need another one. If not its safe and you get only a little less current and maybe invisible current fluctuations cuz its outside the CC range. But the driver would still try to put out a stable current.


The diodes are most probably LM301 and the little prongs, frame and all that matches with LM301b but its for sure not top bin. Top bin is always the most expensive and they would just don't use them for this reason. Its for sure also no 4oz copper PCB but 1 or maybe 2oz in the best case. There must be reasons why these boards are so cheap, no? I can get them for less than 30 bucks a piece.

But even if its not top bin the light is actually not bad at all. There are a few percent behind and don't reach the same efficiency but spectrum and all that is the same... unfortunately I must add!
They all are scammers(Meiju, R2T, Hanison, ..) and copy HLG's products. I would not use them even if they gifted me 100pcs just because I don't wanna support them in any way. What I have said here is more than they deserve.
I can understand when the budget is small but I do not like it when copying so boldly.
Be happy with it! When it works properly it will for sure grow some dank ass weed..
 
Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
diyled said:
AB drivers have me interested.

Im wondering if the current output is the same as A types but with say a 110k pot, could you get that extra 10% out of the dimming leads. Best of both world then. Ill have to test them.
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Its just a B version with build in dimmer "and" dimmer wires. No other differences! There is only a built in current regulator like with A series and dimmer wires like with B version. You can probably set a current limit with the built in poti and the external dimmer can only dimm within the set range but that's just a guess cause I've not used them till now. But it pretty obvious to me cuz it makes the most sense.
 
Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Randomblame said:
The CC region with this driver is 171v. As long as the circuit has less you can be sure to get its full current(2,8A).
The open circuit voltage is higher and is 210v but if you use more like 171v it is out of it CC region and you don't see the full 2,8A. But it should work because 194v is far below the cut off voltage of the protection circuit(~216-246v)
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I fuckin KNEW IT WOULD WORK. Fuck all y'all who gave me shit!
 
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