Gquebed
Well-Known Member
Thats the award winning AK47 from Serious Seeds. My best all time run... 54 zips in a 4x8 under two 1000w hid.
It was a killer yielder, that strain... and the smoothest smoke
Let's figure out a way to vent my minisplit...
- Thread starter psychadelibud
- Start date
It was a killer yielder, that strain... and the smoothest smoke
Did you keep the ak47? I was looking for some old school strains does it compete with quality of all the newer hype strains?
psychadelibud
Well-Known Member
Yes, it sure will. I know a local man who grows the old school AK47, it was a cut he had selected years an years ago, still got mommas till this day. It is actually stronger than most of the new hype strains these days. One thing I can tell you for sure, is these new hype strains may look, smell and taste better considering they are caked in trichs, but that does not matter one bit. Even if the THC is sky high...
I have smoked many old school strains that's around 15 to 20% thc that would blow the legit gorilla glue 4 cut I had last year out of the water, for sure. A lot of it is not just about THC, but other important compounds that alter the chemical profile such as terps and other alkaloids...
Grow it out, see for yourself. I remember some old school strains that hardly had any trichs on them at all, thinking man this is shitty weed... Fired it up and WOW, blew me away almost to the point of wondering if were in fact laced. And it wasn't, cause a lot of it was grown by myself. Then, I have had plenty of new age strains that was frosty out the ass that just didn't do much at all for me.
Regardless, AK47 is known for its wicked strong high... Very potent flower. Make sure you get the beans from serious though, no knock offs... Unless you wanna look around for a new school breeder in America that is using selected phenos found from serious seeds ak runs.. Old school is coming back my friend, look at all these people using the old school MSS super skunk, sssc skunk #1, 88g13hp, skelly hash plant etc...Just to name a few. People are missing that old school face smashing high.
psychadelibud
Well-Known Member
Well, my 10 inch fan arrived today... It is HUGE! Lol... I guess I should have went with an 8 inch, I think an 8 would have been damn near perfect. I plugged the 10 in, held it as it powered up and you can most definitely feel the force behind it, it's got some power for sure and blows hard. I actually think it may be a tad quieter than my 6 inch fans, as weird as that may seem.
So what I might do, is get me a speed controller. Also thought about getting reducers, 10" to 8". Now I am gonna have to drop some dough on the other pieces I need. The reducers, an 8 inch filter, 8 inch duct.... should have already got this stuff ordered and on the way.
So what I might do, is get me a speed controller. Also thought about getting reducers, 10" to 8". Now I am gonna have to drop some dough on the other pieces I need. The reducers, an 8 inch filter, 8 inch duct.... should have already got this stuff ordered and on the way.
psychadelibud
Well-Known Member
I do that during the winter, works great just pulling fresh air through the room with a 6 inch fan. But during the summer, I'm not so sure about it. If anything the air wont be much cooler than the outside air which where I live gets HOT and not only hot, extremely humid. I am in South Eastern Ky and we have average around 80 to 90 degree weather through the summer with very high humidity.
Spring and fall would be perfect and I know then I can switch around the 10" fan and not worry about the minisplit. But till then, I'm gonna have to figure out a way to rig this up. All I need is my air inside the grow room itself to stay inside. I do notice already with the 6 inch fan I am currently using to pull hot air away from the unit, that there is a small amount of cold air coming out from under my door that actually goes into the grow room itself. Also, I believe I am getting air sucked out of the holes where my minisplit pipes and hoses go through the wall into the grow room.
I think I am gonna use foam weather strip and seal the door better that goes into the grow room from the lungroom and then use spray foam in the area where the minisplit hoses go through the wall. I think I am losing some cool air through these ports. I really need to rig up an intake in the lungroom so I have a place for the fresh air to come in from the outside instead of pulling it out of the grow op itself or opening that door.
I know now where the odor is escaping to the outside during the lights on hours, it's simply because the main entrance door is located right next to the ac unit and the exhaust fan on the unit blows it outside before the fan and filter get a chance to suck it up, not all of it but some of it escapes for sure. When the main entrance door is shut up through lights out time, no odor whatsoever escapes, cant smell a thing at all. Odor control is very, very, crucial in my neck of the woods. I am thinking once I get a good intake cut into the wall, my odor and over heating issue will be taken care of, hopefully.
Thecaptian07
Member
The problem with pulling more out is it then throws off both sides of your system, you'll want to watch how much you pull of your condensor or it'll shorten the life of the unit quite a bit.
Renfro
Well-Known Member
Huh? Lost me there.
Thecaptian07
Member
Alright, so how an ac unit works is it takes a refridgerant, compresses it to high pressure on its condensor side, and uses a fan to push out heat away from where you want to cool, usually outside, then that high pressure goes through an orfice, usually a capillary tube in a mini split that restricts flow and pressure. From the pressure drop it cools. It's the same effect when you use butane to extract thc, as the gas flows out the can gets cold. It's going from a higher pressure to low. Well on the low side it flashes off, grabs heat from the areas your cooling, and then goes back to the compressor to get moved back to the high side. The issue you have is each system is planned to keep the refrigerant at the correct state and pressure at a specific point. What your doing would be pulling more off the condensor, which will change how the system runs if you pull too much. So you'll have liquid refrigerant in certain stages it should be a gas causing compressor failure, oil in the system where it shouldn't be and other bad effects. What you'll want to do is run a vfd to the fan and take a temp reading from the inlet and outlet to your evaporator and adjust it to be in range with a vfd.
Thecaptian07
Member
The other option would be to switch out your capilary tube with a thermal expansion valve w you can adjust, and put in an accumulator, like a car has to accommodate pressure changes and grab up the excess liquid giving it time to change back to a gas.
Thecaptian07
Member
This one doesn't really show at what point it's a liquid or gas, but it shows the basic system. The thing is the evaporator and it's fan as well as the condensor and it's fan are both made to move in your case 24000 btu. Now if you can't pump it out on the high side it just makes it less efficient, but if you pull too much on that side for its rating it actually can cause damage to the system. And that's why you would put in a variable frequency drive, you would adjust it based on the temp of the line exiting your evaporator (cool side). I want to say it's usually about 56 deg. But it's been a long time since I've messed with hvac. If it's too low it would be liquid going to the compressor and you would also be suseptable to freezing up the coils which makes for a colder evaporator, but if you can't move air across it it doesn't really help at all.
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Thecaptian07
Member
But adding In another fan, especially at 10" you'll be pulling more from the condensor, so instead of it being a 2 ton, it's a 3 ton with a 2 ton evaporator. So you want to make sure you don't pull too much, or the other option is to not hook it up close to the condensor but still provide cool enough air to let the condenspr work in its ideal range but no real air flow so it's not pumping out to many btus.
Thecaptian07
Member
Send me a link on what it is, I'll check it out
BigHornBuds
Well-Known Member
Just put the condenser outside, where they’re meant to be . ???
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Renfro
Well-Known Member
As long as he can keep the temps the condenser is in below 100F (preferably below 90) he should be ok, but energy wise the unit will work harder to condense refrigerant and of course venting the heat with a secondary blower will use added power.
I have seen so many units installed this way burn up in a year or two so hopefully that doesn't become an issue. Definitely not ideal but when stealth is required you gotta do what you gotta do.
I have seen so many units installed this way burn up in a year or two so hopefully that doesn't become an issue. Definitely not ideal but when stealth is required you gotta do what you gotta do.