Spider mites. Where do they come from??

SickboyDilligaf

SickboyDilligaf

Well-Known Member
Can somebody please explain to me how you can get spider mites on an indoor grow with perfect environment??? What I thought was just the leaves getting frosty turns out to be spider mites. I hose them off which I really did not want to do because the buns are so big I knew they would just flop but I did it anyway broke a couple branches and I’ll see you in the morning how successful I was. Yes What I thought was just the leaves getting frosty turns out to be spider mites. I hose them off which I really did not want to do because the buds are so big I knew they would just flop but I did it anyway broke a couple branches and I’ll see you in the morning how successful I was.
 
Rob Roy

Rob Roy

Well-Known Member
Spider mites can hitchhike in on your shoes or clothing, or on fido or fluffy. Or on garden vegetables brought in from the garden.
Not to mention they can sneak in thru an air vent etc. Infected clones from other locations too, etc.

You should build a wall and make the Mexican's pay for it, it's the only thing that will stop them from running over your border!
 
SickboyDilligaf

SickboyDilligaf

Well-Known Member
So how do you prevent them. ???? I Have to walk through my yard into my pool shed/grow room to get to my plants. I have them stupid sticky pads but I guess they didn’t prevent anything from happening
 
Rob Roy

Rob Roy

Well-Known Member
SickboyDilligaf said:
So how do you prevent them. ???? I Have to walk through my yard into my pool shed/grow room to get to my plants. I have them stupid sticky pads but I guess they didn’t prevent anything from happening
Click to expand...
One way to prevent them is impractical for lots of people, but it involves keeping a pristine clean area, not wearing outdoor shoes or clothing into your grow area, regular precautionary spraying before mites even show up etc.
 
R

RangiSTaxi

Well-Known Member
as eggs on clones, rarely is there a problem using fem seeds.

its 95% of the time clones, eggs can stay dormant 12-24 months. So the clone provider think hes clean, and you find out otherwise later.

rosemary oil
 
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Gemtree

Gemtree

Well-Known Member
Ive always prevented them by having no dead air spots in my grow cause they seem to always start where theres no airflow. I think myco helps too I use bioag vam. Been fighting them right now for my first time in 15yrs of growing. Had them once before but killed everything and started over. I just blasted everything with green cleaner and saw a mite graveyard with my 200x scope so that was cool. Be sure to rinse whatever you use off it seems to have stunted my plants cause I didnt rinse it off.
 
Bear420

Bear420

Well-Known Member
I know some will disagree with me but I had issues and tried all the stuff and they always came back maybe I didn't have the right patients.

So I bought HOTSHOT pest strips and a little time later Gone not one problem since with mites or any bug as far as that goes. Just make sure to read all precautions and put them around the outside they work. Although I put mine right in the room over night for about a week or two, in the day if I worked in the room I would put them in a zip-lock baggie and when i left put them back. Also some Cedar works to help repel bugs once they are gone.
 
rustyshaclkferd

rustyshaclkferd

Well-Known Member
IPM is my profession, i laugh at spider mites, root aphids, green house aphids, thrips, scale, PM.... pest are not problems they are the start of solutions
 
rustyshaclkferd

rustyshaclkferd

Well-Known Member
Prevent transmission into your enviroment by cleaning, changing clothes , do not enter other grows without tycec suit that is thrown away

Start with preventative methods of control use biologicals aka predetory mites use bio-insecticides that are safe, harvest day safe (not that you will ever do that) and have residual effcts other then contact. Their are s number of products designed for use with a benificial biologicals program.

Good Suppliers of Beneficial Bio's
-bioline
-biobest(urban gro)
-arbico
-evergreen


I cannot state this enough, use a 30x , 60x scope and search your plants and their soils/media for bugs. Identifying them is very important for the next step.

If you have an infestation and have reached what big ag calld economic threashold, which is a metric (something like 5 adults a leaf for everyleaf) for pest preasure and the dmg to your crop. This means dmg to crop will cost more then use of products.

Their are a number of safe and very effective prodcuts to regain control. Or you can go nuts with predetory mites, buy the mites that live best in your enviroments temperatures hi/low, they all have different feeding/growing rates and work best in enviroments they like. I reccoment californicus and persimilis or californicus and andersoni


Clean everything, with alcohol. Well not plants. Mites can hibernate for up to a month in non optimal conditions and longer in other.

Stay clean or stay preventative best to do both.


Because user errors can have very negative outcomes...i wont post here products id reccomend but if you want help for a specific problem , id be glad to create a program that works within your needs and precautions.

Safety never trumps quality but their are many good products and MOA's
 
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SickboyDilligaf

SickboyDilligaf

Well-Known Member
I cannot get ladybugs fast enough nobody sells them in my area and I definitely do not have five adults on each leaf especially after a good hosing yesterday but my main question is I am growing in my pool shed which has a lot of stuff in it so I’m figuring that’s where it came from I planned on a grow tent but never pulled plug. It is not an every day pool shed it is a small building standing on a foundation with un insulated walls. To make that room safe to grow and is there some kind of bomb that I can set off in there because once my harvest is complete I need to clean that shit out pretty well I assume
 
rustyshaclkferd

rustyshaclkferd

Well-Known Member
Never lady bugs, they wont arrive healthy breeding indoors is very hard. They dont eat much as beetles, thats the breeding part of their life.

Their larvea will indescrimenently kill, but dont naturally predate mites, mites are to snall. They like aphids.


Predetory mites, cucumeris, andersoni, persimilis , and californicus when im their optimal environment will eat mites, hell even hypoapsis will eat eggs if they fall into the soil
 
rustyshaclkferd

rustyshaclkferd

Well-Known Member
Id reccomend slow release sachets they will breed and last 4 weeks in optimal conditions...

Mites travel with the wind, on your body... so if your room has open doors or intakes that are not filtered(broad and russets will get through these) or if you dont use clean room protocals with floor foot baths and ISO spray downs...its inevitable really
 
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